Leaky power steering pipe, can it be patched?? *PIC*

[CanuckQx4]

My girlfriends power steering line has a very tiny leak, the pipe is rusted. It drops maybe 40 drips a day, but its enough that the car wont pass safety inspection apparently. The line itself is only $40 but they want $400 for labour and she cant afford it and I cant do it.

Im hoping there is a way to fix the pipe that they will accept to pass that will be easy, maybe cutting out the bad section or something....

JB weld has crossed my mind.... but Im hoping there may be another quick fix





Thanks for any help!!

[CanuckQx4]

The car is a 99 cavalier and Im unsure if this is a feed or return line. Would it be pressurized??

Heck I just thought if its not to pressured, I could just cut out the leaky part of the loop and put a rubber hose in its place...

[Razi]

Cutting a section and connecting them with a rubber hose might work.
I highly doubt JB weld would work though.

[IanS]

If its the pressure line, good luck. Those run stupid high pressure, like thousands of PSI.

If its the return line, its only got a couple PSI running through it at any given time. You could cut out the rusted section flare the ends, and hose clamp on some rubber line, as long as its oil rated.

If its just a $40 part, then I would pick it up, and just find a way to install it.

[Jesda]

I've used JB weld on coolant lines but I cant see that holding up for a high pressure steering line.

[CanuckQx4]

I cannot figure out if this is the feed or the return.

I did trace it back to the resevior where it just looks like rubber hose for the first 2 feet of it before it goes to metal and does this loop under the car, could that signify return line??

Also the leak is very minimal, which to me means that if it were the feed, it would have straight up blown out.

If I were to cut the "loop" out, Id want to use my dremel with a tiny cut off wheel, that wouldnt start a fire with the line filled with fluid would it? (obviously would be a mess after I cut it, but we dont mind filling the system after) just dont want a fire, or a leak lol

[Jesda]

In that case, I'd be open to trying JB Weld. I agree, a high pressure line would have, by now, begun spewing. The high pressure line on my Cadillac within a month went from a drip to a severe gush.

[CanuckQx4]

well since they wouldnt pass the cars safety test because of this, I think cutting the loop out and replacing it with hose and clamps would probably be a little longer

But that would still be a "safe" fix for them and they should pass it right??

I dont know if it HAS to be oem

[CanuckQx4]

My girl bought a cavalier and it has this "fluid cooler" built into the return line which basically just loops the pipe in a high wind area under the car. Well its rusted and leaking at the middle of the loop.



Its just a return line so it doesnt have much if any pressure in the system. What I want to do is simply use a dremel to cut out the loop. Let all the fluid drain out. Clean the pipe as best possible of rust and flake, then clean with degreaser.

I then wanna add a RUBBER loop in its place to complete the system, hose clamp on each end.



The car failed safety for this leak among a few other little things, and we are taking it back to the same place.

Is there any reason this fix would fail??

FYI, replacing the entire line is a big job and impossible to get a handle on in tight spots. I just want to get her through this safety before the weekend.

Appreciate any ideas on making it last. I was thinking of just getting a tight fitting rubber hose and a dab of jb weld on each end to seal against any chance of leak passed the worm clamps....

[Razi]

Stock pipes with rubber hoses clamped on them have a rolled edge to keep the hose from slipping off, your cut ends won't have that but it shouldn't be a big deal.

The pressure on the return side shouldn't be a problem, just scrape the rust off so you have a clean surface for the hose to clamp onto.

If the rust ate at the surface and caused pits, I guess you could apply some silicone gasket maker to help it seal nicer.

[CanuckQx4]

I appreciate the info. I dont think Im going to be able to flare it, as its pretty rusty and probably pretty brittle as it is.

I just hope it cuts clean with the dremel

[4cefed]

Uh, just speaking from experience, most likely you will crush what's left of that pipe if you go through with your rubber hose patch. If it's so shot it's leaking, the rest of it looks pretty rusted, so I would just try replacing it. Get some PB blaster or something equivalent soaking on the connections now while you are debating this. If you patch it and it doesn't work, then you will have an easier time trying to get the old lines off.

I haven't wrenched on GMs in a while, I don't know if they are some kind of free-spinning flare nut like most other things or not, but if it is, the nut is most likely rusted to the pipe and won't spin. You will have an easier time cutting the pipe near the connection to allow the whole thing to spin. When you put the other one on, slide the nut down a bit and try getting some anti-seize between the nut and the pipe. I've been where you are, it's no fun, Good luck.

Oh and uh... you might want to check out my thread on oil coating your car... just sayin....