KS relocation on Y33???

[Wiggler]

Well, now I'm at odds on whether to sell my q45 or keep it and have 3 cars....first things first, I want to get rid of the knock sensor codes, but I'm not interested at all in putting the kind of work that PJ put into his Q to get at both his KS ... I want to figure out a way to relocate them like many other infiniti and Nissan owners have done, with the corresponding harness. Any Ideas? I'm sure at least one person has attempted this with good results... lets hear em.

[elwesso]

If you're going to relocate them and not have them mounted to the block, you might as well just add a resistor on the KS harness. I'm not thrilled about that idea because if someone puts regular gas in the car and it starts knocking the engine has no way of knowing if it's knocking or not. You can at least replace the KS without taking the plenum off, so I don't see why you don't just replace them. You could destroy the engine doing this if bad gas was used, costing you more in the long run, IMO.

[Wiggler]

If you're going to relocate them and not have them mounted to the block, you might as well just add a resistor on the KS harness. I'm not thrilled about that idea because if someone puts regular gas in the car and it starts knocking the engine has no way of knowing if it's knocking or not. You can at least replace the KS without taking the plenum off, so I don't see why you don't just replace them. You could destroy the engine doing this if bad gas was used, costing you more in the long run, IMO.

Apologies...I AM going to attach it to the block...I forget how "attention to detail" everyone. Is on the forum) I. Obviously on a technologically advanced and large motor like this there should be many machine thread screw holes on the block.. I just need to know where the best ones are, and what length and thread pitch bolt I need to use to get it on there. Also, does it make a difference how long the wires can be extended to get to the new mounting location????

[Skibane]

Obviously on a technologically advanced and large motor like this there should be many machine thread screw holes on the block.. I just need to know where the best ones are

Best location will be near a piston at TDC (since that's where knock occurs), and away from other noise-producing parts (valve train, belt-driven accessories, etc.). The intake side of the engine is preferred, since the exhaust side tends to cook sensors.

That doesn't leave you with a whole lot of options.

[maxnix]

I just love it when owners think they are better engineers than the ones Nissan hired back then.

[Wiggler]

I just love it when owners think they are better engineers than the ones Nissan hired back then.

I just love it when this dimented individual refuses to read the true intent and objective of the owner of the vehicle who happens to be debating on SELLING his vehicle. The same thing occured when I asked about how to remove a plastic footrest on the driver side footwell which was underneath the parking brake. He thought I was trying to remove the parking brake itself!! Gentlemen, Irrefutable proof that senile dementia exists. Maxwich, they make Aricept, Exelon and Namenda to help with cognitive disorders of the brain such as yours. Ask your doctor today if not being a jagoff is right for you.
Side effects may include drowsiness, dizziness, sleepwalking, and removing the engine of your Q45 to sleep in the engine bay.

Skibane, Elwesso... thanks for your constructive replies.

[elwesso]

In my honest opinion the knock sensors aren't going to be doing anything if they're not attached where they're supposed to be. So, at that point there's no point in jerry rigging something together, just bypass them all together and save yourself the cost of new sensors. I'm not tickled to death about the idea of fixing it like this with the intention of selling it, but not really my place to mettle in those affairs.

[OwnerCS]

Some months ago I snapped this picture of a Q45 in the salvage yard on the way to the crusher with a KS relocation. Nine months earlier I actually looked at this car with the intent to purchase. When I looked at the car the check engine light was on and it was throwing KS codes in addition to another code that I cannot remember. I understand the seller disconnected the check engine light before selling the car. It appears a "work around" solution was applied to allow the ECU to recognize a KS. I've been curious as to the real reason the car ended up going to the crusher.

I am NOT recommending this type of "work around" be applied.

[Wiggler]

ok... sounds good guys... can someone please provide a link to the FSM method of simply replacing the sensors without going through the complete teardown that PJ did in one of his earlier how to posts?? I want to at least sell it with the power it was supposed to have that the malfunctioning knock sensors take away. Please mention any necessary and "common sense" parts that will need replacing such as hoses and gaskets.

[elwesso]

Here's a thread to look at. Also search for posts by FarFetched...

y33-97-q45-knock-sensor-replacement-t166615.html

Andy gave a pretty good summary on how to do it. Looks like you can replace the KS in about 2-3 hours without removing the plenum... Definitely a nice option that us G50 guys don't have!

[paranoidjack]

Hope you have small hands....

[Wiggler]

Hope you have small hands....

Maybe not, but I have a skinny 8 year old kid who does.

[Wiggler]

Hey PJ, I think I saw on your writeup way back when you did the complete teardown, that in one of your pictures that one of the white cooling fan blades was broken... what did you use to put it back together? Mine isn't broken, but it's cracking at the hub. I was thinking that a little skillfully applied epoxy resin might fit the bill?

[Wiggler]

ok guys, anyone can answer my last question about the fan... doesn't have to be PJ... he's probably too busy still rebuilding his motor...anyone except Maxitch...

[Skibane]

Hey PJ, I think I saw on your writeup way back when you did the complete teardown, that in one of your pictures that one of the white cooling fan blades was broken... what did you use to put it back together? Mine isn't broken, but it's cracking at the hub. I was thinking that a little skillfully applied epoxy resin might fit the bill?

Cracks in the fan blade are pretty common. If they're small ones, you can probably ignore 'em.

Epoxy doesn't stick to this kind of plastic very well - and a glob of it could also unbalance the fan.

[elwesso]

I've never seen or heard of a fan coming apart, so I might not worry about it so much. Sometimes you're effort to make things better can make things worse in the long haul. I'd either ignore it or replace it, your choice. He's right though, epoxy doesn't adhere to plastic too well so the strength you'd be adding is very nominal. Also, the way the fan is being loaded and the structural characteristics of really any adhesive isn't going to help much.

[paranoidjack]

Sorry - very busy week.

I replaced it. it was cheap, like $70-$80 bucks.

I was told by the guys at Infinity of scottsdale that this is a common failure for our cars.

I didn't have to replace it...but I thought about a piece coming off at full speed, slicing a coolant hose or worse....for $80, worth it to me.

[Brew Q]

The one I just sold (a 94) had cracks in the fan - not small ones either, some big ones! This was on a motor with 175k

[Wiggler]

Hope you have small hands....

Well... that got me to thinking really hard as to whether or not this method might end up working....





pictured from left to right: My hand, my sons' hand, replacement knock sensor.

I'm almost halfway through.... spent most of today trying to get to the KS. This video below helped me out with the alternator bit.... Hiroshi Nakamura (or similar) knows his stuff.... works on cars almost as fast as most of this countries' fast food employees prepare junk that keeps us going. I am told that the four second pause between 0:49 and 0:53 is when he went to evacuate his bowels.... what a lightning fast champ!!!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYjkfMpsryM[/youtube]

[Wiggler]

The one I just sold (a 94) had cracks in the fan - not small ones either, some big ones! This was on a motor with 175k

how big? This big??









Since my Q is a "weekend car" I'm going to give it a shot at repairing it...I can understand you guys who have them as daily drivers might be concerned... but I think I'm going to take a calculated risk on this one... I've already soaked it in a dish soap solution for 2 days, tomorrow I'm going to lightly scrub the cracks with a toothbrush. I'm also going to do a detailed writeup with pictures on it. PJ, I know you said you would be afraid of the fan coming apart at a "high speed", but doesn't the fan spin at a constant speed regulated by the clutch, or were you speaking of the speed of the car while driving? Correct me if I'm wrong, but for the most part, unless you're travelling in 100 degree + weather all the time, doesn't it only activate when the car is stopped at idle, to cool the engine in the place of wind when the car is moving?

[OwnerCS]

My son has small hands as well and he helps change the KS on the Maxima's VQ30DE as it is under the plenum and he can reach in to get the bolt started into the block. On the 99 Maxima(s) I can only use a 1/4 inch socket with a wobble/u-joint and a 10" extension to snake in under the plenum to tighten the KS. Only a 1/4 will make the turn sharp enough for me to get a wrench in to tighten the KS bolt. If you need to make a sharp bend the 1/4 will work where the 3/8 drive will not make the turn.

[Wiggler]

To hell with the shortcut method... I'm taking my time and doing it right... just went and bought some color coded small labels from Wally World to help me identify the hoses and attachments when taking everything off....

[paranoidjack]

Good man, best choice in this thread yet

Let me know if you have any issues, but my thread should help you out quite a bit.

[Wiggler]

PJ.... already ran into this MAF problem



Why the hell did they make a square panel with screws on it that gives the impression that it's supposed to come apart...then surprise!!! three hidden soldered prongs!! WTF???!!!! how can I get it back together? jump the connections with low resistance wire??? I don't want to rely on pressure contact... chassis vibration will force it apart easily....

[SanCarlosQ45]

If its like G50's then there should be a panel on top that is sealed by silicon. Once you remove this there will be a copper plate that can be bent back so you can look at the circuit board. Put the connector back and you can solder the pins back. I pretty sure these solder joints are the cause for the G50 MAF sensor failures, a mixture of corrosion and stress. After your done just seal the top back up with any silicon from Home cheapo.

[Wiggler]

Thanks Carlos... good to know,

guys... this is a shot of my throttle body, right?? should I spend the extra time cleaning it or does it look ok to you??

[maxnix]

I've never seen or heard of a fan coming apart, so I might not worry about it so much.

I have had deep cracks on some of my hubs and I thought one guy had to replace his radiator when a blade came off a few years ago, but memory isn't what it once was.

[maxnix]

guys... this is a shot of my throttle body, right?? should I spend the extra time cleaning it or does it look ok to you??

That side is as it should be. How is the back side? That is what gets really dirty. And of course the plenum and runners.

[Infinitiguy19]

Looks like you have two butterfly valves to clean.

[paranoidjack]

PJ.... already ran into this MAF problem



Why the hell did they make a square panel with screws on it that gives the impression that it's supposed to come apart...then surprise!!! three hidden soldered prongs!! WTF???!!!! how can I get it back together? jump the connections with low resistance wire??? I don't want to rely on pressure contact... chassis vibration will force it apart easily....

You just freaked me out dude.

Last week, my car started stalling for no apparent reason. I noticed smacking the MAF (but not jiggling the wires) made it stall. Hmmm...

So I did the same thing as you just did. Noticed that the solder points were $hit and had deteriorated bigtime.

So what to do? Remove the large square cap (the 3" or so by 3" one), it is held in by epoxy around all 4 sides. I used two flatheads and gently pried it out.

From inside, you can resolder and reassemble, which I did. Make sure to use some SERIOUS elec tape or epoxy to reseal that square plug or you'll be into it again soon.

I didn't post a thing about that on Nico...so when I saw you direct that to me with that photo I was thinking to myself, how the hell does this guy know what I just did last week? LOL.

Yeah, do what I said and you'll be OK.