KS relocation on Y33???

[maxnix]

Apologies...I AM going to attach it to the block...I forget how "attention to detail" everyone. Is on the forum) I. Obviously on a technologically advanced and large motor like this there should be many machine thread screw holes on the block.. [

So you are assuming the harmonics of the block are uniform?

Ever wonder why Nissan located the KS between the two interior pistons on each bank, and specified a particular torque?

Nah, why would any of that matter?

[paranoidjack]

well, he said he's doing it the right way anyway, so good for him!

[Skibane]

If its like G50's then there should be a panel on top that is sealed by silicon. Once you remove this there will be a copper plate that can be bent back so you can look at the circuit board. Put the connector back and you can solder the pins back. I pretty sure these solder joints are the cause for the G50 MAF sensor failures, a mixture of corrosion and stress. After your done just seal the top back up with any silicon from Home cheapo.

Some of the most common silicone sealants give off acetic acid as they cure - smells like vinegar.

Acetic acid is mildly corrosive to electrical connections, so it's not an ideal choice for this application.

There are other silicone sealants that don't have this disadvantage - so be sure to compare before you buy.

[SanCarlosQ45]

All of the silicon we use at our custom cabinetry shop are Neutral Cure, so that's not a problem. Best choice should be Permatex Ultra Black RTV, its the noncorrosive stuff.

[Wiggler]

but memory isn't what it once was.

You got that one right... exactly what I said earlier about you. don't forget to add your inability to follow the natural progression of a thread in which new and better ideas replace original ones.

[Wiggler]

Skibane!! what's your schedule like next few weeks?? I've been putting off getting this done because I loose track of time too easily in the workweek ... plus I got two other cars to drive... Can I talk you into helping me finish this so I can do a detailed writeup for everyone?? What part of town you in? I'll pick you up... buy lunch...whatever... let me know... PM me dude...

[Wiggler]

All of the silicon we use at our custom cabinetry shop are Neutral Cure, so that's not a problem. Best choice should be Permatex Ultra Black RTV, its the noncorrosive stuff.

Thanks for the tip Carlos... went to the parts shop and picked up a small tube of this stuff today... I've actually been waiting to bust out my mini butane soldering torch to try it out on the repair... I'm gonna get to it right now!!

[Wiggler]

guys... this is a shot of my throttle body, right?? should I spend the extra time cleaning it or does it look ok to you??

That side is as it should be. How is the back side? That is what gets really dirty. And of course the plenum and runners.

Maxwinch...seems like you were right on that one...I knew there was a reason they still kept you around on this site...

[Wiggler]

Updates and problems so far:

PJ!! I need your help... on that EGR valve bolt I got a 30mm wrench today which fits it exactly... I sprayed it with PB blaster twice... and I haven't really put hard force on it yet, but I wanted to know if I push to the firewall or pull away from it... I'm pretty scared of breaking it... please help...
Also... I pulled out a plug just for kicks... what I saw alarmed me.... I'll let the picture below explain...





the weird part is... the electrode looks fine... with just a teeny little more than average carbon buildup. The Autozone guy said he's seen mechanics in Mexico sometimes use a little oil on the threads instead of anti-seize.. maybe that's what the jagoffs at Firestone did for the chump who owned it before I did. There's also no oil on the ceramic insulator either, that's just the heat browning it up... any ideas? I'm not seeing or smelling any blue smoke... and I'm not losing any extra oil between changes...

Some progress pics..



Mitsubusher??!!! No WAY!!! GTFO!!!!

You dudes like my labeling system for the hoses and connectors?? Yeah?? I'm hoping it'll pay off when putting it back together.



In action:



let me know what you guys think about it... it's time consuming... but I'm in it for the long haul and making a writeup with 50+ hi-res pics when I'm done for all the other newbies like me...

[Wiggler]

Bump for PJ.... where are you dude?

[paranoidjack]

sorry sorry! Gotta activate notifications for this thread as I didn't see it.

Well, that bolt (the large one that exits the back of the plenum securing the EGR tube) is a standard thread. So you'll turn the wrench towards the driver's side of the car. It will be very difficult to break, very easy to round with the wrong size. If you have the right size you should have no issues.

Nice work so far! Labeling is size and very important. Remeber before lifting the plenum, it's important to ensure all loose "things" are removed or secure, so nothing falls in when you lift it up. To ensure this is the case you have to make 100% positive that everything is disconnected for a clean and gentle lift - the one thing that I forgot about both times was the small bracket that serves no purpose but to connect head to plenum - I think it's held on with 2 12mm or 14mm bolts, on the back, in the centerish.


jack

[Wiggler]

Thanks man, I finally got it loose today....I pulled away from the firewall.... that @#$%@^# little hose in the back is now proving to be the biggest pain in the neck to remove...I've managed to move the clamp away from the fitting... but the hose is refusing to budge.... You know which one I'm talking about... one way in the back at the bottom of the plenum. I took the gasket out for fear of breaking it moving the plenum off and on while I'm trying to get the hose off. I'm also worried about anything falling in the runners while I'm doing it... what did you do in this case PJ???

[Wiggler]

Seeing things from a different angle.... helps relieve tension on lower back for a while if you can get on the bumper...



oh yeah.. and those are my "skinny" shorts.

[paranoidjack]

haha, wiggling under that hood indeed.

There's no magic to it. You just need to TURN the hose on the barb (as you should always do with a rubber hose before just pulling) to break any corrosion (coolant lines always do). I think that's a vaccum line (no fluid), so should come off with some twisting and pulling.

Sometimes you just need to gradually increase "pull" WHILE twisting on the fitting.

Just be sure whenever you're putting a metric ton of juice on a fitting, that when it finally gives, your hand won't get sliced open on something.

On an unrelated note, LOL, look what happened to my friend today:



I am vindicated!