Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
kimandre92
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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Sun Apr 17, 2016 11:19 pm

float_6969 wrote:Great progress!

Thanks man, feedback is much appreciated! :)


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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Fri Jul 01, 2016 12:22 pm

So a package arrived in the mail yesterday!

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Got this sub frame from Tommy, plan is to pick it apart, sand blast and paint and put new bushings in it :)

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There was a Nissan Sporting Meet about 60 miles from where I live, figured I had to throw my car together and go there ! :cool:
The red S14A to the right is Tommy's btw :)

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Izento
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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby Izento » Fri Jul 01, 2016 10:05 pm

So I heard there is an integrated BoV on that turbo, but I'm confused as to how that works. It looks like it's electronically controlled or something. Very weird design.

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float_6969
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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby float_6969 » Sat Jul 02, 2016 6:23 am

The cream colored, round cap thing is the recirculation valve. (It's is NOT a BOV because the vented pressure is routed to the intake of the turbo). The black solenoid is if you want to hook up a boost controller, you have a nicely integrated actuator and plumbing. The recirculation valve works just like any other BOV or Recirc valve. There is a diaphragm and a spring. The spring plus manifold pressure holds it shut against the boost pressure. When the TB is shut, there is a vac applied against the diaphragm and that combined with the pressure at the compressor outlet allows the diaphragm to lift and the pressure is routed to the intake of the compressor. Inside the compressor housing, there are machined and cast pathways that give the diaphragm something to seat against and air flow paths to and away from the diaphragm.

This shows the IRV in the closed position. I can't find a picture showing it in the open position.
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Izento
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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby Izento » Sat Jul 02, 2016 5:59 pm

Informative stuff! Now I know wtf I'm looking at, lol.

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float_6969
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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby float_6969 » Tue Jul 12, 2016 4:07 pm

Did you tell us which EFR that was? I could swear you had, but I can't find it anywhere.

1200ute
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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby 1200ute » Tue Jul 12, 2016 6:28 pm

I think it is 7670 - seen on FB.

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Thu Jul 14, 2016 1:48 pm

Yes, the turbo is a 7670 with AR .86 treadstone v-band housing :woot:

Me and Tommy have done some machining so I have some updates when I come back home! :mike

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Fri Aug 05, 2016 2:38 pm

Sorry, I completly forgot to upload pictures!

Here you go!

Got my crank back from balancing, mesuring the clearnaces to order bearings!
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Getting the stress plate mounted, ready for honing!

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Plateau honed
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Piston ring gapping, gapped rings to 0.55mm and 0.50mm

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Put the parts (and a RB26 block) in a parts cleaner

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Then painted!

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Sun Oct 23, 2016 3:29 pm

So its been a while since my last update. I moved to a new city and started a new job so I've had a lot going on.

But here is something! :)

I drilled out the oil restrictor and made a new one out of brass, without the one way function. Changed the orfice from 2mm to 1.5mm.

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Aand I polished my crank

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I barely started assembling the engine, measured the runout on the mains with the ARP bolts, torqued to spec 60 food pounds in three equal steps and it was off with 0.03mm. I then went down to 50 food pounds, then 40 and down to 35 foot pounds before it was around 0.01mm. I didnt find anything in the manual saying what the tolerance is.. Any of you guys encountered this problem? What did you do about it?

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby float_6969 » Sun Oct 23, 2016 4:25 pm

I've never used ARP main bolts, and with the stock main bolts torqued to factory specs, I didn't see any appreciable out-of-round. I think it was less than .0005", which is about the limit of my bore gauges accuracy.

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby mdb4879 » Wed Oct 26, 2016 8:04 am

Did you have the mains line honed with the ARPs?

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby splintercell » Thu Oct 27, 2016 4:31 am

I love a good build. Keep up the good work Kim.

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Thu Nov 03, 2016 2:47 pm

float_6969 wrote:I've never used ARP main bolts, and with the stock main bolts torqued to factory specs, I didn't see any appreciable out-of-round. I think it was less than .0005", which is about the limit of my bore gauges accuracy.
Thats the same as I got with 35 foot pounds, its slightly less torque, but with a finer thread.. Not sure how much clamping force it holds versa oem, but I think its still more. Gonna get this checked.
mdb4879 wrote:Did you have the mains line honed with the ARPs?
No, I have not
splintercell wrote:I love a good build. Keep up the good work Kim.
Thanks alot man ! Appreciate the feedback!

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby mdb4879 » Sat Nov 05, 2016 3:15 pm

I would torque them to spec and liner hone them. It would be even better if you had a torque plate to replicate the head when you line hone them as well.

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Fri Dec 23, 2016 2:01 pm

mdb4879 wrote:I would torque them to spec and liner hone them. It would be even better if you had a torque plate to replicate the head when you line hone them as well.
Yes, thats definitely the best option. But to get that done I have to send away the block and it would take ages for me to get it back. So im gonna go with it like I did.

It's been ages since I made a update, I've done some minor things, and spendt some moeny on parts. So here is a update!

I polished the crankshaft, since it was lying around in my garage for a long time and I wanted a perfect finish, measured crank and bought bearings. It was machined for 0.25 overdim bearings.

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measured the runout on the crank, less then 0.01mm!

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measured the runout on the mains and rods. Even tho the rods are brand new its good to be safe.

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I had to grind the thrust bearing a bit, measured it to 0.05mm

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Then I used plastigauge to check bearing clearance

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I started to assamble the pistons and the rods, but I only had 7 of the pin locks, so I had to order a new one so complete the last piston, I threw in the gasket kit for the engine aswell. So I'm still waiting for this package

I allso bought some other parts, I bought Tommy's R32 GTR breaks

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I dissembled them, washed them in the part washer then glass blasted them. Ready for paint, think I'll go for Austin Yellow,

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I allso bough Tomei headgasket, Tomei 270 Lift 10.25mm intake and exhaust camms, Tomei Solid lifters, Supertech STD SS Intake Valve, Supertech +1mm Inconel exhaust valve, Energy Suspension poly bushing kit, and Megan Racing Rubber bushings for the four mains, a Japspeed intercooler Tommy had lying around, KW V3 coilovers, S14 spindles, hubs, and some HKS copy cam gears

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Me and Tommy machined the head, opened up the exhaust valve seats 1mm, i match ported the intake roughly, and started on the exhaust, will wait untill I get the gasket kit before I finish.

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby float_6969 » Sat Dec 24, 2016 8:00 am

Great update! Thank you!

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Thu Jan 12, 2017 2:38 pm

Another update!
I recived the piston pin lock, so I assembled the last pistons measured rod bearing clearance and installed the rods and pistons in the block (clearance was about 0.05mm)

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I made a shaft to block of the EGR channel. Knocked it in, welded the back and grinded inside to get get a smooth finish.

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The manifold had some cracks after they bendt the plate when making it, it would most likely hold up just fine, but I decided to weld it just to be sure!

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I reamed my valve guides and resurfaced the head.

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I had a old, broken SR20 head laying around, that I could practise machining valve seats on, after I did a few I did the valve seats for my head. Was quite intesting!

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I allso mangaged to f#ck up. On the first valve the pilot hit the surface under the head, wich moved my head and made me machine the seat wrong, when I tried to fix it the seat went to low, so it needs replacement. It's hard to see on this picture, but the left valve is sitting lower then the right one, I bought a new, over dimmed valve seat today.

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I allso decided to test fit the camms, to see if they would clear the head. It was tight so I tried using a feeler gauge. And all of the lobes cleared with atleast 0.1mm

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby float_6969 » Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:12 am

I can't find it, what were the cam specs?

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Sun Jan 15, 2017 12:18 pm

float_6969 wrote:I can't find it, what were the cam specs?
They are Tomei 270 degree duration, 10.25mm lift.




I machined out the seat yesterday, and prepped it to install a new one today

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machined it to a 36mm outer diameter overdim seat.

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Made a device to fit the new seat

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Heated the head to about 110 Celsius, and used CRC -50 Spray to cool down the seat before I knocked it in, the seat was about 0.12mm bigger then the whole in the head, to make it sit tight.

I started drilling my head for M12 bolts since I allready boredand threaded the block for RB26 bolts , unfortunately I did a pretty big fuckup.
I had something else on my mind, and was't payint enough attention to what I was doing, and ended up drilling the wrong hole, then this happened.

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I dont wan't to just scrap the head after I put alot of work into this, just yet.
So what I'm thinking is machining out a few mm of the total area, and make a bushing to press in then machine the bushing to the same diameter the original size.. This sucked :facepalm:

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby float_6969 » Mon Jan 16, 2017 6:31 am

That really sucks man, but like you said, it's not worth scrapping the head over. There's not much you can't fix with some welding and machining.

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Re: Kim's S13.5 600WHP CA project!

Postby kimandre92 » Mon Nov 06, 2017 2:29 pm

Alright, long post incomming.. So recently I’ve lost some motivation and I haven’t worked that much on my car. But I’ve been doing some stuff every now and then and I took some pictures

I’m gonna to go trough one thing at a time.

So after I Drilled trough the wrong whole, I made a bushing with the inner diametre a little smaller than oem size so I could get the head machined, press in the bushing and machine it back to oem standard size
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The new bushing blocked the oil gallery, so I had to mill a new opening for it

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Checking the angle to adjust the milling head

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Unfortanly I don’t have a picture of the finished result, but it’s good.

I made this tool for fitting the new seat, I cooled it down with a cooling spray to shrink it and knocked it in with a hammer

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Got some help from Tommy to machine it

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I put my valve covers in the part cleaner, and glass blasted them to clean them thoroughly
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After all this I assembled the valvetrain and tried assembling the head on the block, since I went up to M12 I drilled up the holes for the bolts, the holes for the guides and everything so it should fit, but it didn’t.. There was a problem.. The M12 bolt’s head was to big, so I had to modify this as well..

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I dissembled the subframe I got from Tommy, removed the bushings, sand blasted it, repainted it and fitted it with new bushings. I used Megan Racing rubber bushings in the subframe and Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings in the rest.
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I was a struggle to get the balljoints for the lower control arm since Nissan doesn’t sell them, but I figured out after some forum searching that I could use the front ball joints from a Sentra B12. So I bought a set of Moog on Ebay.

I also got Moog S14 balljoint’s for the S14 spindles.
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I assembled the OEM S14 lugs to the spindles

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I got my hands on a S15 differential

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I dissembled my original diff, glass blasted the outside, cleaned it thoroughly and added acid primer

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Then I painted it black and started to assemble it again, I used the crown gear from the stock diff.

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Pinion torqued to spec

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I checked the diff runout, the manual said 0.05 mm but I ended up on 0.06mm

I bought some oil based paint to check tooth contact

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I also glass blasted the calipers, cleaned them and put them back together for painting.

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The colour is called Austin Yellow

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I applied a coating called Max Protect V3

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Went to Nissan and got new lock nuts for the for the front hubs

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I’m not sure what discs I got on the rear since they were opened, but I got DBA 4000 series rotors on the front with Yellow stuff pads

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However I’m running into some issues with the front brakes, the rear ones fits like a glove but on the front the calipers are crashing with the rotors, and I’m not sure why. I’m gonna try to get another set of rotors to see if that might be the issue. When I googled the part number its specified “Application(s):
6/98-8/93 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R - 2.6L Twin Turbo - Front
" that makes me wonder if it might be R33 discs.

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Here you see a good gap between the caliper and the rotor

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Here it crashes (towards the wheel, on both sides)

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