Kayak rack options

[wftright]

I'm considering the purchase of a Nissan Rogue as a replacement for an older Mazda pickup truck. I currently have a Yakima rack on the truck for carrying a recreational kayak, and I won't replace the truck with any vehicle that is not as easy or easier to fit with a rack for carrying a kayak.

I've tried to look at the Thule systems, but their website gives such poor pictures that I don't feel confident that I understand how their system would work.

The Yakima site is better, and I've spoken to the Yakima people. They suggest a LowRider system with 48" crossbars attached to the Rogue's factory rails. This system would allow me to use either a Stacker or Big Stack kayak holder and would give me an official weight capacity of 100 pounds. My boats are in the range of 11 to 17 feet long and weigh in the range of 40 to 60 pounds. One boat would easily be within specs, and for the rare occasions when I'd want to carry two boats, I wouldn't worry about exceeding the weight limits by five or ten pounds.

My questions are these.

1. The Yakima system using the LowRider on a Rogue's factory rails seems simple enough, but has anyone actually used this system and found it to be user-friendly?

2. Is there some other system that works just as well?

3. Has anyone found a system that would use the factory crossbars for the Rogue? Yakima doesn't seem encouraging about the feasibility of using the factory crossbars.

4. Where should I tie the bow and stern to keep them from vibrating in the wind? I think that the towing bolt would work fine for the front. I could just install the bolt when I need to tie the bow. My problem is that I insist on a stern tie-down, and I can't see one readily available. I'd rather not install a hitch, and I haven't found a picture to tell me how bad a permanent hitch would look on this vehicle. Are there any good tie points under the rear of the vehicle? Is there any way to tie to them without creating rub point problems?

Thanks,

Bill

[philipa_240sx]

Welcome to the forums. A search (Google window upper right) should yield answers to alot of your questions. But here is some quick answers:

Yakima Rack using low riders on factory roof rails:

More info here:

zerothread/318590

I have used the rack on several occasions to haul a ladder and lumber. It is very sturdy and works well... like all Yakima products. It installs in minutes and the rubber padding prevents scratches to the roof rails.

Re: Rear attachment pointsWith the curve of the rear bumper, it would be difficult to place straps of any sort so they do not rub. You would just have to pad the area to protect the paint. There is a tow hook on one side only BTW.

Re: HitchHidden Hitch, Curt Mfg and others make very nice hitches for the Rogue. The Rogue has factory threaded inserts in the frame so it's a simple bolt on affair.

[wftright]

First, thanks for the quick reply and the link to your other thread.

These pictures are good, and the system appears to be relatively simple. Your pictures are even better than those given at the Yakima website. If I go this route, I'll still start with 48" crossbars because I already have them. However, your suggestion of getting 58" crossbars and the canoe carrier in order to carry plywood is excellent.

The big question that still remains is the front and rear tie-downs. The ladder appears to be only six or seven feet long. The ladder doesn't stick forward or backward enough to require any kind of tiedown. With a 14 foot kayak, I'd need something to keep the kayak from swaying up and down in the front and back. That movement would eventually (after enough trips to the lake) tear the rack off the roof.

Bill

[philipa_240sx]

I hear you. I canoe several times a year and front & rear tie downs are a must. I normally use a simple Y arrangement front and rear. Unfortunately the smooth front bumper and engine undercover offer no attachment points save for the lone tow hook in the centre. To add insult to injury, we have to use front plates here in Canada and I have to remove and relocated the plate to use the tow hook. In the rear, there is only a single tow hook on the RH side.

I plan on installing a hitch, but even the single attachment point has me leary as the canoe can still yaw back and forth on the rack. I am seriously considering breaking out the welder and making a rear crossbar with hooks that can attach to the hitch. Front attachment is still up for debate though...

[wftright]

In the rear, there is only a single tow hook on the RH side.

I think I saw that tow hook, but I wasn't certain that I was seeing a tow hook and not some other piece of equipment. I looked at the Rogue just after a rain, so I couldn't get down on the pavement to get a good look. I didn't want to make an assumption unless someone could tell me for certain that I was dealing with a real tie point.

I plan on installing a hitch, but even the single attachment point has me leary as the canoe can still yaw back and forth on the rack. I am seriously considering breaking out the welder and making a rear crossbar with hooks that can attach to the hitch. Front attachment is still up for debate though...

My concern with the rear crossbar would be that the moment arm for any movement would be pretty big. If there was much stress behind the yaw, the moment arm could create a pretty good bending stress on your hitch. I'd be tempted to tie to the hitch and then to the tow hook on the right side. Even though the "Y" would not be symmetrical, the two points of contact would keep the stern from swinging back and forth.

My pickup truck has a single tow hook in the front, and I typically attach only to that hook. My Kayak Stacker is positioned slightly to the driver's side of the truck, and the tow hook is positioned to the passenger's side. That asymmetrical arrangement seems to stabilize the bow very well with a tie-down in only one direction.

As long as I'm asking questions, have you ever had a problem with the canoe (or anything else) hitting your antenna?

Thanks,

Bill

[philipa_240sx]

My concern with the rear crossbar would be that the moment arm for any movement would be pretty big. If there was much stress behind the yaw, the moment arm could create a pretty good bending stress on your hitch. I'd be tempted to tie to the hitch and then to the tow hook on the right side. Even though the "Y" would not be symmetrical, the two points of contact would keep the stern from swinging back and forth.

Good point. Although I plan on getting the 2" receiver hitch fron Curt Mfg. I also imagine any play in the receiver could well negate any advantage a rear cross bar would have. Maybe I should look instead at integrating a second tow hook on the LH side?

As long as I'm asking questions, have you ever had a problem with the canoe (or anything else) hitting your antenna?

Well sort of. The antenna is flexible and doesn't need to bend much to clear.

[wftright]

How much do you reckon they'd charge for a second tow hook? A second tow hook would be a better solution. You'd get the right distribution of stresses and the rear bumper wouldn't have a hitch visible. I wish they'd put a couple of hooks on each side in the front.

[philipa_240sx]

I've spent a fair bit of time under the front and there isn't anything solid and accessible except for the tow hook.

As for the rear, I am picking up a Curt Mfg 1.25" class I/II hitch next week. Another member (sirbikesalot) has the 2" Class III/IV hitch:



It's very low profile as you only see the reciever. Notice the OEM tow hook on the ground which must be removed to install the hitch as it uses the same attachment points.

Rest of the post:

zerothread?id=283582

[wftright]

Can you help me make sure that I'm understanding the posts in the other thread correctly? From what I see, the hitch has to bolt on both the right and left side of the vehicle. If so, then there must a place where I could install a second tow hook on the left side. Is there any reason why Nissan wouldn't sell me a second tow hook? If I could buy and install tow hooks on both the right and left, I'd feel fairly confident about the tie down in the back.

In terms of the front, is there anything solid inside the grill? All of that plastic has to be bolted to something metal.

Bill

[philipa_240sx]

The hitch mount is identical on both sides. The bracket also appears to be symmetrical so I cannot see why you couldn't just buy another bracket. To be sure, I would unbolt the bracket and try it on the other side.

[philipa_240sx]

Well sort of. The antenna is flexible and doesn't need to bend much to clear.

I found out the antenna will fold forward and almost flat against the roof. This should give plenty of clearance for whatever you wish to throw on the roof.

[wftright]

Thanks, that's a nice bit of information. My only remaining problem with the Rogue is that the armrest on the driver's door won't let me spread my left leg into what I think is the most comfortable driving position. Unfortunately, there's no way around this problem. If I decide that I'm just going to accept that problem, then I may get a Rogue. If I decide that I simply can't accept having to reposition my leg, then I'll have to look elsewhere. At this point, "elsewhere" may force me back into a truck rather than an SUV.

[philipa_240sx]

I admit, the 'cockpit' area of the Rogue will not appeal to all. It actually appears a bit more cozy than my old Altima. However, I find the Rogue more comfortable in some respects.

[philipa_240sx]

I just installed the Curt Mfg Class I/II hitch. I originally wanted a class III/IV hitch, however my Yakima Big Horn bike rack has a 1.25" bracket. The Curt class I/II also comes with a ball platform, I don't believe their class III/IV does. The additional cost of parts to convert the rack to a 2" reciever and a ball platform for towing were another $75. The bonus is the 1.25" receiver is nearly invisible.

Anyway, the install was simple. Curt Mfg's instructions were very straightforward. You do not need to remove the exhaust as per the instructions... there is plenty of room to slide the hitch in place. A helper or car jack would help to support the weight of the hitch during install. The only issue was some clearancing of one bolt hole on the hitch to get the last bolt installed. The bike rack fits perfect. I will definitely be using the tilt feature of this rack to access the hatch.

The trailer wiring will likely be done this weekend. I have already picked up a proper trailer light isolator. I will post a trailer light wiring how-to and photos once the install is complete.

As for the factory tow hook... you have to remove it. I cannot see a simple way to re-install it. I will likely just use the tow chain attachment points to secure long loads (ie canoe). My Yakima rack already has the gunwale brackets so side to side yawing of the load may not be a big concern.

[websfear]

Nissan has a TSB on the trailer wiring.

[philipa_240sx]

Yes, I have the TSB and the wiring diagrams. I just want to add some photos and notes to the install and post it for future reference.

[ColoradoMountainDiva]

Okay! Got two new kayaks and a Nissan Rogue (top model) and am curious. I want to be able to load myself and I am slightly handicapped. I think the side loading hullivator by Thule is my choice, the question is the 2nd Kayak is my husbands who is perfectly capable to handle his boat so I dont want to spend as much on his. My question is what combination of rack would work and fit on my Rogues roof?

[sprocket]

Okay! Got two new kayaks and a Nissan Rogue (top model) and am curious. I want to be able to load myself and I am slightly handicapped. I think the side loading hullivator by Thule is my choice, the question is the 2nd Kayak is my husbands who is perfectly capable to handle his boat so I dont want to spend as much on his. My question is what combination of rack would work and fit on my Rogues roof?

I have two Thule 835PRO racks, I got it solely because it let you fold it down when there's no kayak on it. I don't leave the rack on the entire year but it's nice to go camping for a weekend, take the kayaks off the roof and leave the racks on and folded down, not worrying about low clearances, etc. I do wish the shape was a little more "J" at the bottom to hold my kayak better ... the shape fits my Kestrel 120 quite well but not my Merlin LT as "snugly", but never had a problem. I guess if I was really that concerned, I'd cut a foam block out to better suit my Merlin LT. Again, never had any problems.

Yakima has a folding rack as well, the BowDown. I like the shape of that better but my coworker has been comparing the two and was concerned with the Yakima's holding structure being plastic rather than metal. If you check out reviews on REI.com, they are mostly favorable but one person had the BowDown separate due to the plastic giving and that worries me a bit.

Personally, I think the Thule 835PRO would work great for your 2nd kayak.

Here's a pic with both my kayaks on the Rogue using Thule 835PRO racks on factory cross bars.


The Hullivator is great but expensive (almost 3x the price of an 835PRO) AND heavier (I think it's about 30-ish lbs more than the 835PRO). The weight of it may be a concern because the Rogue is rated for 100lbs .... weight adds up quickly when the Hullivator can weigh as much as a kayak! My setup (racks and both kayaks) weigh just a little over 100lbs. Using a Hullivator would have probably put me closer to 150 lbs.

My female coworker (5' 3" ... about 100lbs) used to load her kayak on to an Xterra SUV all by herself. Despite her size (small) and weight challenge of her kayak (it was a 14' rotomolded, probably weighed 60+ lbs), she could do it all by herself using a Thule 847 Outrigger II assist. It's just a simple bar that can slide out the side, so that you can lift one end of the kayak and rest it on the bar, then lift the other end to get it to roof height. I am not sure of your handicap or if this may be an option for you and you can use it with normal racks which are much cheaper than a Hullivator. Here's a video of how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hH9KTreFIs

Some people also use roller loaders where they just "roll" the kayak one but I think the Rogue is too narrow to load two kayaks flat like that ... maybe one, probably not two. I personally like the idea of the Outrigger assist bar better.

Some options, hope it helps.