KAT with greddy kit wont start?????

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
MECPInstaller
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dr.j where in stlouis are you at i'm right across the river in illinois i woulnd't mind checking out your turbo setup sometime intrested in doing the same myself


Adikt
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Maybe it would work if u switched to an OBD II Ecu froma 96-98 theyre like 50 buck s on ebay it might be worth a shot

BomexS13
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Adikt wrote:Maybe it would work if u switched to an OBD II Ecu froma 96-98 theyre like 50 buck s on ebay it might be worth a shot


is it that easy to just swap the ecu?

Structure240sx
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not sure on using an obdII in an obdI car. i do know that people with obdII cars and jwt ecu's use 95 (obdI) ecu's and have to swtich 3 pins. so i guess it could work in reverse.

Boostedka
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To get fuel out..Easy..Diconnect injector plugs,pull out fuel pump fuse and crank for 15 sec. If engine starts, until engine dies.

Too much fuel will cause a crank no start condition.

But it sounds like you are not getting the MAF signal. Double check wiring and connections.

doctorj240
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MECPInstaller wrote:dr.j where in stlouis are you at i'm right across the river in illinois i woulnd't mind checking out your turbo setup sometime intrested in doing the same myself


I'm at Mizzou right now. I'm originally from Chesterfield/Wildwood. I'd be happy to show you my setup.

I'm with boosted KA. Minor signal deviations from poorly spliced wires make a huge difference in how your car runs, especially with the MAFS. I found that out myself on my first startup after the Greddy kit install.

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C-Kwik
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Structure240sx wrote:not sure on using an obdII in an obdI car. i do know that people with obdII cars and jwt ecu's use 95 (obdI) ecu's and have to swtich 3 pins. so i guess it could work in reverse.


Yes, but I spoke to someone at JWT about this a while back. I don't remember him telling me the wiring that needs to be switched was anything to do with the input/outputs that would affect how the e-manage runs. And if the 95 uses the same MAF, then there will probably be no difference in the tuning maps.

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andrewdees
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hey guys we got the car running a few days ago. the problem was the fuel pump wires. we hooked them up according to what the FSM said, positive wire is the red with yellow stripe and negative is the solid red one. turns out that the positive one was the solid red one and the negative was the yellow tracer wire oh well atleast it is running now. anyways we have another problem. it ran fine while we were breaking it in, keeping revs under 3K, now after 50 miles are so we started to get on the throttle some and when it hits about 5K rpm, it makes an awful metal on metal screeching sound, that comes right from the turbo. we checked for shaft play, and there is a lot of shaft play left and right, but not enough for the impeller to rub the sides of the housing. if anyone has any ideas, they would be appreciated. thanx

-drew

BomexS13
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so i guess the Greddy kit works with OBD1 cars.....GREAT!!!

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C-Kwik
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andrewdees wrote:hey guys we got the car running a few days ago. the problem was the fuel pump wires. we hooked them up according to what the FSM said, positive wire is the red with yellow stripe and negative is the solid red one. turns out that the positive one was the solid red one and the negative was the yellow tracer wire oh well atleast it is running now. anyways we have another problem. it ran fine while we were breaking it in, keeping revs under 3K, now after 50 miles are so we started to get on the throttle some and when it hits about 5K rpm, it makes an awful metal on metal screeching sound, that comes right from the turbo. we checked for shaft play, and there is a lot of shaft play left and right, but not enough for the impeller to rub the sides of the housing. if anyone has any ideas, they would be appreciated. thanx

-drew


Check for leaks in the exhaust between the motor and turbo. Especially if it uses a metal gasket.

BTW, turbos do not need to break-in. Turbo motors have a lot of different sources of odd sounds.

BomexS13
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pls post pics:)

BomexS13
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andrewdees wrote:hey guys we got the car running a few days ago. the problem was the fuel pump wires. we hooked them up according to what the FSM said, positive wire is the red with yellow stripe and negative is the solid red one. turns out that the positive one was the solid red one and the negative was the yellow tracer wire oh well atleast it is running now. anyways we have another problem. it ran fine while we were breaking it in, keeping revs under 3K, now after 50 miles are so we started to get on the throttle some and when it hits about 5K rpm, it makes an awful metal on metal screeching sound, that comes right from the turbo. we checked for shaft play, and there is a lot of shaft play left and right, but not enough for the impeller to rub the sides of the housing. if anyone has any ideas, they would be appreciated. thanx

-drew
so its actually a plug and play kit huh, except for this problem that you have rightnow?

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tl1000sga
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So is the kit still plug and play on the 95'? Or did you have to change anything???

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C-Kwik
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I would expect it should be. None of the wires you need to add are OBDII related wires. They control the same hardware as on the OBDII cars. The tuning should be the same or at least very close, in which case it should run fine. I doubt Greddy tuned it to be on the bleeding edge as they can't be certain of how well everyone's motor is running.

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tl1000sga
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I wonder why it always says for 96' - 98' 240sx's?Any ideas?

14.5drift
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Same chassis and same motor, same kit should work, right?

BomexS13
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tl1000sga wrote:I wonder why it always says for 96' - 98' 240sx's?Any ideas?


I also would like to know the answer.

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andrewdees
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hey guys, just wanted to give you an update on the car. everything is perfect. spool up is very nice and the power it makes is even nicer. we installed a profec B II while we did the install, currently we are peaking at about 8.2 psi. it is fast. i own a NA 95 240 and ive raced my car against the car i put the turbo kit in, and there is a huge difference. If i am behind him in traffic he just pulls very fast away from me. its SWEET.

anyways i dunno why Greddy says it wont work for 95's. the car i put it on was a very early model 95 and it works fine. one thing is that the kit comes with a piece of piping that goes between the turbo and MAF that has a piece of piping inside of it. it looks like it would hinder performance, so we didnt install it. so the car kept stalling when we would drive and let off the gas while still rolling. so we called greddy and they said that, that piece of piping has to be installed between the MAF and turbo. and what that thing does is keep the air from flowing backwards through the MAF. so we installed it and it runs PERFECT, we dont have a complaint about this kit except the instructions. the pictures are black and white and really hard to understand. thats the only bad thing about it.

for anyone interested in getting this kit, i recommend getting a boost controller and raising the boost to about 8. Greddy says that the E-Manage is pre-programmed to give enough fuel to support 8-9 psi. anyways ill try to get some pics up ASAP. thanx guys

-drew

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andrewdees
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oh yeah, and that nasty sound coming from the turbo was an exhaust leak, we didnt tighten down the bolts on cyl. 4 all the way and exhaust was leaking. so when the turbo would spool, a lot of the noise that the turbo made was leaking out, and thats why it was so loud. but we ordered some new exhaust manifold gaskets and replaced them, and its quiet now.

so for anyone installing the kit, make sure that you tighten down the exhaust manifold bolts really good, cause if you dont, they are going to leak.

-Drew

doctorj240
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have had any problems with idle oscillation? I know my car still does not want to hold an idle.

BomexS13
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thats great andrew:thumbup

NX95240
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hope you get the kit to work right . iam looking at the kit for my 95

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Camel
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BomexS13 wrote:is it that easy to just swap the ecu?


No, think about all the extra emissions crap that you will have to put on the car. Otherwise you will have a constant check engine light and the ecu will go into safe mode.


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