ka24de vs. ka24det - Round II

[homeslicej2]

I've worked pretty much everyday these past two weeks b/t required on the floor orientation and then training classes. No real stories. The 4th was eerily quiet and slow in our ER. Only one bad car wreck on my shift. Both ankles, both tib/fibs, both femurs, and the hip. It was gnarly when the patient tried to lift their left leg. The femur bent up in the middle of the thigh. Looked like an alien trying to poke through the skin

[Razi]

Ew

[SiDwAyZ240]

You get the "grossest thing I ever heard" award. That exactly why I could neve be in the medical field. Hats off to you.

[SX APPEAL]

I knew there was a reason I was subconsciously reluctant to check this thread... still thanks for your service bro, God knows I might need the same kind of attention one day.

[Chris28]

Hahaha that's gross man. I can deal with broken bones and cuts...as long as I don't look at them for too long. I'd definitely get queasy after seeing something like that though.

[Chris28]

Booo, my engine blew up. Wastegate signal line came off, more than likely melted a piston or two. I'll be sure to post pictures up once I tear it apart haha. Any opinions on pistons? JE, Eagle, Wiseco?

[Razi]

I think I should go ziptie my wastegate lines or something. Haha.

I think all the name brand pistons are pretty good.
I'm leaning towards buying CP pistons though, since they're owned by Carrillo, and I'm gonna end up buying Carrillo rods.

CP and JE say they have anti-detonation grooves around the top of their pistons, but it doesn't seem like they do in the pictures.
Wiesco seems to sell em that way though.


The grooves going around the top of the piston is supposed to help absorb some of the shock before it hits your rings incase you get some detonation.
Probably not that big of a deal.

I think the main thing deciding for me would be piston slap.

[Chris28]

Yeah, I feel like by the time you're detonating, you're doing something wrong and are most likely going to have issues regardless. Either way I'll have the engine apart so I might as well go the whole 9 yards this time. I'm planning on stopping by the machine shop on Monday to see what they think, hopefully I can still use this block with an overbore. I have 2 spare blocks, but this one has already been align honed and toleranced so I'd rather not have to get new bearings and everything if I can avoid it.

I'll ask them about piston slap as well, see which brand they think is the best and go from there.

[Chris28]

Kaboom.

[biggie]

Sucks to hear. Buy me some internals while your at it.

[SiDwAyZ240]

Damn Chris, you sir have some serious motors issues. What is that like 3 in the last year?

[Chris28]

Yeah, I seem to have horrible luck when it comes to engines. June 17th of last year is when I blew the head gasket on my last motor, so I bought this one around one year ago. Technically this is all the same block, just the 3rd "version" in one year haha. Total engine "version" count is now up to 7, over the course of 3 blocks. I should have just gone ls when I first bought my s13.

[DubsSuck]

Want a set of stage 2 cams? 263°

[SiDwAyZ240]

Hey Chris if the signal line for your wastegate came off what size sping were you running? I thought the wastegate woud still open with a minimum psi spring, say 7 or so. Did you have to large of a spring or something?

[SX APPEAL]

Force to open the wastegate comes from the signal line ported in the intake after the compressor, not from exhaust pressure. For example, 7 psi spring would have to see 7psi positive pressure in the intake (or 21.7psi actual) to open the wastegate. The pressure from within the exhaust manifold, which it seems you're talking about, makes no difference. If the signal line came loose from the wastegate, it would see 0psi (or 14.7psi actual) and would never open, leading to catastrophic overboosting, as Chris described. In other words... zipties are your friends... Sorry bro

[Chris28]

I was running a 10 psi spring, like SX Appeal said though once the line comes off it's not going to open. I had a zip tie on there but it melted haha. I'm about to order some push loc fittings for my wastegate line, I don't want it coming off again.

[WDRacing]

Knock lite, water injection. Water injection will eliminate knock unless you're running absurdly lean. The knock lite is a must have item for DIY tuners. Invest in these items Chris.

Hose clamps on vac lines. Been my standard practice on all boosted applications forever. Kinda silly not to have something as important as a wastegate line secured in the best manner possible, especially when the cost is so little. I use these,

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/279/=inqvae

[Razi]

Haha, I used the same clamps to secure my line after Chris said his popped off.
I also found out the line was barely on the wastegate...

[WDRacing]

The wastegate line, to me, is as important as the fuel line. Loose fuel line = fuel leak = fire. Loose wastegate line = over boost = massive rotating assembly failure.

On an odd note, when I was installing a boost controller on my second Skyline, I simply couldn't get the boost to increase. I went as far as pulling the line all the way off the stock actuator and leaving it open...nada. Wastegate opened at 8 psi no matter what.

[Chris28]

That should do the trick. I'm probably going to put some firesleeve over it as well.

[WDRacing]

Hows that manifold holding up?

[Chris28]

It's holding up great, no signs of cracks or anything. I get a lot of people asking me what manifold it is haha.

[Razi]

I wish I had cool AN lines!

[Chris28]

Got most of the engine back together last night only to strip out the idler sprocket bolt hole. Head has to come back off now for a helicoil. Awesome.

[SX APPEAL]

Yeah you can't torque that thing to spec, you're not the first person to do that. Fvckin aluminum...

[Razi]

Got most of the engine back together last night only to strip out the idler sprocket bolt hole. Head has to come back off now for a helicoil. Awesome.

Btw. Chris! Have you looked in your box of Z32 things for the cables?

[SiDwAyZ240]

Got most of the engine back together last night only to strip out the idler sprocket bolt hole. Head has to come back off now for a helicoil. Awesome.

Bummer dude...

[Chris28]

Engine is in and running, have some issues though. It's running extremely rich, barely idles at around 11 afrs. Pulled codes, keep getting one for the coolant temp sensor. Turns out the wiring to the cts is shorting out somewhere, I'll have to find it tomorrow. Question is, could a "faulty" cts make it run that rich? I hooked up my consult cable, injector pulsewidth is a little over 3ms, seems really high. The only thing I can think that is causing that is the cts thing, I'm not getting any other codes.

Razi, I have the cables all boxed up and ready to ship, I'm bringing them with me to work tomorrow so I can swing by the post office on the way home. Sorry I haven't shipped them yet, I've been trying to get my car running haha.

[Razi]

Np y0!
I'm in no rush.

A bad CTS is going to mess with how your car runs. I think it'll keep thinking your engine is cold, and mess with your tune.
I remember my CTS was dead once, and putting in a new one helped a lot.

[Chris28]

Yeah, and since it's shorting out it's giving the ecu a weird reading. Cold start is better, but once it warms up it keeps getting richer and richer. I wonder if there's a place in the harness where it commonly shorts out, kinda like how the knock sensor always shorts out in the same place.