umm cut the rods and use taller pistons>? :B LOLrider384 wrote:As you probably know, the KA engine has a ridiculously long stroke. Is there a kit that brings the stroke down, say, 10mm?
Thanks.
yes but it would be cool to see one of these 2.4L rev to around 10,000 lol. i say go for it and do something a little different.WDRacing wrote:Or just upgrade the V-train and get a set of cams. People have done this and revved the KA to 8K.
I have never done it so I cannot verify, but a nissan engine expert once told me that a L20B crank (lots of nice fcw cranks available for l20's) will work in a ka...that in conjunction with a different set of rods (cannot remember what kind, they need to be something like 170 mm) would de-stroke the KA to something like a 2.2 liter and with vq or qr lifters, port work and an aggressive cam would spin to 9K...but that is alot of money for 2.5K rpm...just turbocharge it. Or buy a LSx for a bit more money.s13rb25det wrote:sr20
480sx wrote:FCW crank.
yeah, but wouldnt you have to deck the s*** out of the head and block to make up for the loss in stroke? is there enough metal available to shave?Fahaka wrote:
I have never done it so I cannot verify, but a nissan engine expert once told me that a L20B crank (lots of nice fcw cranks available for l20's) will work in a ka...that in conjunction with a different set of rods (cannot remember what kind, they need to be something like 170 mm) would de-stroke the KA to something like a 2.2 liter and with vq or qr lifters, port work and an aggressive cam would spin to 9K...but that is alot of money for 2.5K rpm...just turbocharge it. Or buy a LSx for a bit more money.
No, you use a longer connecting rod.egan wrote:yeah, but wouldnt you have to deck the s*** out of the head and block to make up for the loss in stroke? is there enough metal available to shave?
Look noob, eventually you will get past your own ego and start trying to be helpful. When you feel confident that you have reached that point then start posting again.emo_tactical9 wrote:People are still asking this question!?!?!?!
I don't think he was asking what the easiest way was.emo_tactical9 wrote:The easiest way to do it is to buy a SR20
Point me in the direction of this destroked KA, please.My ego? I just think it's such a stupid idea to make an engine smaller. If you want an engine that revs, get an engine that revs. If you want to really destroke a KA, get in touch with a good machine shop.Fahaka wrote:
Look noob, eventually you will get past your own ego and start trying to be helpful. When you feel confident that you have reached that point then start posting again.
I don't think he was asking what the easiest way was.
Your comment is irrelevant and completely off topic.
I have been around long enough to know that the SR vs KA debate is childish and irrelevant. I have an SR powered 240, but the OP asked a question and my experience led him in the right direction.
For the record a destroked KA is something like 2195cc which is about what you get from a tomei stroked SR22...I think the ka would be a lot cheaper.
Thanks for the good post.Fahaka wrote:
For the record a destroked KA is something like 2195cc which is about what you get from a tomei stroked SR22...I think the ka would be a lot cheaper.
Read the whole thread...I am not the expert, just a guy with a flashlight.emo_tactical9 wrote:Point me in the direction of this destroked KA, please.
Yes your ego, you wouldn't have said anything if you didn't have an ego. Not such a stupid idea when you consider fcw cranks and better rod/stroke ratios. If reducing engine displacement was such a bad idea why do so many people swap to SR's?emo_tactical9 wrote:My ego? I just think it's such a stupid idea to make an engine smaller.
Or don't...for the record SR's don't really rev that well. You have to do all sorts of crazy s*** to get them to rev high...so if you are going to have to do a bunch of stuff to the head anyway why not start with a cheaper head/block etc...emo_tactical9 wrote:If you want an engine that revs, get an engine that revs.
Bad idea...a guy at a machine shop might know what to do, but chances are he won't. Maybe if you got a guy that knew nissans, but more than likely you are going to get a guy who knows a bit about everything...in this application you need a specific crank from an oem app and then another specific app for the rods...etc. Having a machinist "Figure it out" will make it more expensive than a tomei sr22.emo_tactical9 wrote:If you want to really destroke a KA, get in touch with a good machine shop.
Actually, when you consider that, it becomes an even stupider idea. The price of a custom FCW destroked crank shaft and custom rods is going to be well over 2 grand. Price of an sr is cheaper than that. What are you gaining? Nothing but an expensive 'one of' engine that if you spin a bearing or damage your crank is going to be worthless.Fahaka wrote:
Not such a stupid idea when you consider fcw cranks and better rod/stroke ratios.
This does not support your argument and makes you look stupid. The SR has a turbocharger. The Ka does not. The SR makes 240 hp with ease in its stock form. The Ka in stock form makes 150 hp, if your engine is fresh. Bolt ons are nearly pointless for a Ka, they are no Honda motors. Its Ka-T or swap for a 240 if you want power.Fahaka wrote:If reducing engine displacement was such a bad idea why do so many people swap to SR's?
You mean add a 100 dollar set of rocker arm stoppers? Wow, man, that bolt on hour long job really is crazy.Fahaka wrote:
Or don't...for the record SR's don't really rev that well. You have to do all sorts of crazy s*** to get them to rev high...
Because when you put 2000+ dollars into the rods and crank of this 'cheaper' head/block, it ceases to become a cheap block. Again, you dont have to do a lot to the stock SR head to get it to rev out. The SR makes great power up top as well.Fahaka wrote:
so if you are going to have to do a bunch of stuff to the head anyway why not start with a cheaper head/block etc...
No, you need a custom made crank. End of story. If there was a magic FCW crank that bolted into a Ka's girdle and ran, we would probably know about it, and it would have been done.Fahaka wrote:
in this application you need a specific crank from an oem app and then another specific app for the rods...etc.
Then stop giving crap advice with crap posts containing BS with a crappy tone, its unacceptable. This is a tech forum. Sit aside and you might learn something.Fahaka wrote:
I am not the expert
I said a lot more than get a sr. I explained exactly why your idea isnt feasible.rider384 wrote:Also, to all those saying to get an SR: I asked about a destroking kit because if I could get one for, say, 500 dollars, it would be a lot less then buying an SR20 and putting that in.
I agree if you want revs the cheapest and easiest way would be a sr20 swap, i still don't understand why you want to de stroke the ka, thats like throwing power out the door. for the money you spend destroking the ka and loosing power, you could turbo charge it and and have more power than an sr. it looks like you have the info that is is needed to do it though. it seems pointless to do that in my opinion. good luck what ever you do.480sx wrote:Idiotic.. Buy a SR20.
Price of custom cut crank shaft - 1500 +
Price of custom rods 500 +
ect ect, + a lot more
Price of a base sr SR20 that CAN be made rev happy all day long, less than 2k. Sht i rev my stock SR out to like.. Crap i cant even remember i wana say 7500 or more... , but it was screaming on the strip. : )
Anyway, what exactly is the problem with that extra 10mm of stroke lmao?! FFS dude, get a grip.
rider384 wrote:As you probably know, the KA engine has a ridiculously long stroke. Is there a kit that brings the stroke down, say, 10mm?
Thanks.
Thats my point though. For a 100 dollar upgrade, and assuming your valve springs arnt worn out, the SR20DE head is good till at least 7800 in stock form. In addition, unlike the Ka's, it makes great power up top. Or you can go with a VE head and have no problems at all.sunnys14 wrote:Rocker arm stoppers really don't do much on an SR after you start reaching 8k revs.
Find someone who has pulled this off successfully, do it yourself, or stop recommending it as a viable option.Fahaka wrote:here is the setup. If I weren't so busy with homework I'd have done this sooner:
L20B (oem fcw) crank inKA24DE blockZ24 pistons onZ24 rods
I believe there is a bit of machining necessary for the l20b crank to work but nothing crazy just a bit of indexing. There is also some variability on the pistons depending on the desired compression ratio...
They can stop the rocker arms from flying off inside the valve cover. They make it so, if you have a mild case of valve float, you dont throw a rocker. If you have bad valve float however, it doesnt mater what you do because the rocker is the weakest link between the cam and valve, and it will break. The forces acting on the rocker arm if valve float happens is similar to a head on collision Vs a collision between a static object. This is why the rocker arm breaks or pops off.Fahaka wrote:oh and btw rocker arm stoppers only prevent mechanical over rev. They do nothing to help an sr rev higher...
Ill relax when im dead.Fahaka wrote:480sx...relax you are way too uptight. Other people, including you, came in here and shat on this thread. I answered the op's question...did you?
A VE head is nowhere NEAR a bolt on affair on a SR.480sx wrote:
Thats my point though. For a 100 dollar upgrade, and assuming your valve springs arnt worn out, the SR20DE head is good till at least 7800 in stock form. In addition, unlike the Ka's, it makes great power up top. Or you can go with a VE head and have no problems at all.
Modified by 480sx at 9:53 PM 4/17/2009