ka24de crower stroker kit to 2.65l

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
derekc707
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has anyone done this kit yet and if you have please let me know because i have some questions for you


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tramp_drift240
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thats not really a regular thing for people to get for their KA's, so i dont think youll get many if any responses.

what questions do you have?

derekc707
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i was just wondering how the idle was what kind of hp ad tq gains were gotten and if it could pass smog

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tramp_drift240
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seeing how its only a physical change in displacement for the motor, the idle would run just fine as long as nothing gets messed up in the process. same with smog, itd just be like a 2.65 passing emissions tests.

as for the power gains, i couldnt tell you. seeing how i dont have the kit yet (im hoping to at some point), i can only assume that torque would be a good bit higher, and start a bit lower in the powerband.

mind you, when you stroke a motor, the redline with significantly drop due to the weight of the rotating mass, so dont expect to have a lot of high-end power.

Shift_Kouki
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Well, if the crank is fully counterweighted, it should make up for some of the problems with the stock rotating assembly's. -- So revs up to the stock 6800 or so shouldn't be an issue.

But stroking the KA... I'd guess there would be some work involved to get it to breathe well. Think 3 angle port polish, over sized valves, and 248/248 cams at an absolute min. But when doing all that work, its hard not to justify some after market cams and adjustable cam gears.

Emissions wise, less cam overlap, and a cat would 'probably' pass a sniff test, but it might be hard if the AFR is too rich.

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tramp_drift240
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i doubt that oversized valves or aftermarket cams are a requirement for it to breathe well. sure, itd help. but its not a necessity just because you up the displacement.

and im pretty sure its proven that stroking a motor will drop the redline. itd have to be perfectly counterweighted to not drop it, the momentum of the piston/rods moving the longer distance would just be a bad idea when you try to get closer to 7000rpms.


yellowcar
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I have the kit but have not had time to build the motor yet.I also have everything else they make for the motor valves cams etc..

If i ever get my shop done (just needs sheetrocking and paint now) then get the 510 shell done I will let you know how it runs :-)

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tramp_drift240
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^ my plan if i dont go with the AMS block.

or perhaps...ams crate, + stroker?


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neverlift
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tramp_drift240 wrote:seeing how its only a physical change in displacement for the motor, the idle would run just fine as long as nothing gets messed up in the process. same with smog, itd just be like a 2.65 passing emissions tests.

as for the power gains, i couldnt tell you. seeing how i dont have the kit yet (im hoping to at some point), i can only assume that torque would be a good bit higher, and start a bit lower in the powerband.

mind you, when you stroke a motor, the redline with significantly drop due to the weight of the rotating mass, so dont expect to have a lot of high-end power.
wrong.... the powerband should be much nicer IMHO seeing it would be worth while to rev over 5500rpms, a stock half weighted crank is a big hurt on power and ka's that have everything bolt on wise not making over 200 whp.... The harmonics are trying to rip the crank apart, thank god nissan used a girrdle

also on your other comments they seem wrong as well, the redline should still be the same or higher with a good cam (bc stage 2's help the ka make power over 5500 but the crank is still trying to **** itself), I mean the pistons and rods are going to be custom meaning they will most likely be lighter than stock.... If its not close things can be done to reduce the rotating mass such as titanium pins, and other things I wont mention also why would you spend the monies for a built ams block , then go and try to redo all the work they have done by putting in parts for a stroker kit . AMS charges those prices because they know what they are doing. The stroker kit on the other hand doesnt have much to back it up dyno wise....

yellow car you still not done I've blown a couple and rebuild one already, been boosted and killed that turbo, now back to na ka lol glad the shop is almost done man...


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tramp_drift240
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i doubt id spend the money to do the crower stroker in the ams block anyway.

Neverlift, you just successfully killed my sense of knowledge in this thread.

however, i have no experience with stroker kits, especially this one, so it doesnt really matter much.

but come on, stroker kits are widely known to drop the redline due to the longer stroke. you cant deny that.

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neverlift
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tramp_drift240 wrote:i doubt id spend the money to do the crower stroker in the ams block anyway.

Neverlift, you just successfully killed my sense of knowledge in this thread.

however, i have no experience with stroker kits, especially this one, so it doesnt really matter much.

but come on, stroker kits are widely known to drop the redline due to the longer stroke. you cant deny that.
now if ams offers a stroked ka kit/block GO FOR IT, they will have more dyno proof to back that shyt up than you would want/need.

Not trying to, just pointing out the reality of things with ka's, I've forgot more about ka's than most will EVER care to know or learn. And I still know nothing.

only stroked thigns I have PERSONALLY dealt with were chevy, not a high rev engine anyways... I do know my uncle spent the better part of 5k tryign to build his and its a flop IMHO probably makes less power than stock stupid fvckstick(uncle). It does matter the guy wants to know. I think the bc kit is too untested for most to justify the spending on(kit cost more than I can go buy 4 s13s right damn now) , BUT it has a fully counter weighted crank and thats helping the revs some, as well as the assumed lighter pistons. A cam is a must tho ka has a hard time breathign up top anyways... So I wont deny a stroker drops rpms, but when your not making power above 5500(damn crank/cam) stock, a stroker is bound to still rev to 6k easy and be making power till redline. I think thats the point of it anyways to make power to redline, not 5500 keep reving and flat. I think someone on here had slips showing shorter shifts being benificial I could be crazy tho....

In short ka's dont liek to rev high stock, not designed to... A stroker thats fully balanced is bound to rev slighty lower but make more power upto the lower redline. I'd like to see someone finish up a stroker kit and dyno that thing, yellow doesnt count so much, as he is in a 510 and they dyno higher anyway.

op dont forget a rom tune! thats part of what gets your hp figures.

yellowcar
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I don't count so much...

Yea the car project is really killin me. it was moving really quickly then in the last year:

I bought a new house, have a two year old (Ok, well, he became two) started a new shop at the new house (swore I wouldn't start back on the car 'til it was done so I was sure to finish the shop) have a huge project at work, got certified to scuba dive, went to the Caymans, remodeled my bathroom, painted 1/2 the inside of the new house, went racing, finished a 1936 cord project, showed the cord at forest grove (got best in show) and the ACD meet in Auburn, etc...

I am really starting to feel the need to get back to work on the car though...

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neverlift
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damn I'd luv to see that, if you could send some my way that would be sweet or a link maybe, I'm an old school guy deep down, but my pockets are not

all projects are hell at one point or another trust mine is a *****...

no YOU COUNT, and I'm sure you dyno will be very impressive. BUT as far as a ka in a 240sx the dyno will be less productive, thanks to drivetrain loss and extra rotating mass....

yellowcar
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I emailed you a couple of pics and also one of the two 1928 buick roadsters.

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480sx
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tramp_drift240 wrote: but come on, stroker kits are widely known to drop the redline due to the longer stroke. you cant deny that.


The point your missing here is that the BC kit isnt just a stroker kit. Its a stroker, and FCW crank kit.

While your right, a stroker kit typically lowers your rev limit, this is balanced by the FCW crank that BC has made to add to their kits. That means that you can actually make a crap load more power at high rev than the ka ever would at those RPMs. Infact, if you got that kit and DIDNT rev it out you would be waisting you money.

Im also kinda worried about the oiling system, the ka was never designed to rev high at all, and i wonder about its ability to deal with high RPMs.

The thing is though, the ka has such a long stroke already. I just cant see spending 2g's+ on that kit. I mean the kit isnt a bad deal, AMS was trying to charge 1600 for a FCW crank alone. However for 2.2g's i could get the majority of an rb20 swap and rev to the moon .

Personally, i like making my power at lower rpms. Its easier on the motor as a whole and you will get a longer life out of your engine.

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D-UNIT
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from what i'm told by some engine builders ''easily 8000+ rpms sustained". Its not the KA's engine design that is the flaw. It the quality of the its oem components. the engine could fly apart above 7500 rpms. one plus is it has oil squirters.

yellowcar
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I read in one guy's post that you have to take the squirters out to install the kit though...BC never said anything about that to me though

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Ajax
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Hey guys, I haven't posted on here for a long time about this subject as my previous threads got too long and crappy because of a jerk mechanic (Still getting things sorted out to sue the guy).Anyway, I'll let you in on my little secret- my s13 is at AMS now getting the engine rebuilt (again) with a BC stroker. Neverlift has already touched on the concerns that I had (lowered redline) by pointing out the full counter-weight.Also- the kit comes with rods, pistons and all the connecting bolts, so the deal is good IMO(whether its worth it is dependent on the person buying it).When I spoke to the staff at BC, they suggested the kit should make 40-50 hp. Keep in mind that's someone trying to make a sale and could reflect turboing rather than NA; I doubt they get too many calls from people like me staying all motor, so that number really shouldn't be taken too seriously.I'm feeling good about this project now- AMS is a reputable shop that knows their stuff. I've talked with Ivan who is assembling everything as well as helping me to figure out all the problems with the original build.I'm hoping the car will be completed by April, but probably won't be able to pick up the car until beginninng of May because of a show I'm in.I'll be excited to see the results and plan on getting the dyno sheets posted (but I'm not setting a date!)

silpena
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thats freaking awesome u'll be the first with enough courage to hit this subject not jusy talk about it. I hope to see the results and be good ones maybe u can break a new whp record on the ka. By the way isn't there someone using a counter wighted crank from ams aiming for 700 whp at 8k rpm with the stock 2.4 displacement?? i read it in turbo magazine i think?

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Ajax
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I know that Ivan's personal 240 drag car has a boosted KA with 700hp- don't remember if its wheel or crank.

yellowcar
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hey, did they say anything about removing the oil squirters?

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Ajax
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They didn't mention anything to me, and since I'm not doing the work myself, I didn't think to ask if any modifications were needed.When I called BC, though, they were very courteous, answered the questions I did have (which were mainly ordering/billing questions). I'd recommend calling them.I'll see if AMS has run into any snags like that in the meantime.I'm looking forward to seeing your car finished yellowcar. If my car ever gets destroyed and the engine survives, I'll be looking to drop it into a 510- what a fun little car! Get that shop done.

yellowcar
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Yea, I'll give them a call when I actaully start building the engine.

Mattism78
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I know when you stroke a V8 you generally get more rpms out of it. My buddy has a 427 Z06 fully built/blueprinted/etc. It revs to like 7-8k. Car is insane.

My KA revs entirely too low for me. My a/r .70 SC61 is just getting the party started at 6500 rpms. Taking it up to 8k would be a blast.

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D-UNIT
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forged pistons and rods etc. should get you up there easily. I've found that ATI finally makes a Fluidamper for our engines. Getting one of those should help with harmonics big time.

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Ajax
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D-UNIT wrote:forged pistons and rods etc. should get you up there easily. I've found that ATI finally makes a Fluidamper for our engines. Getting one of those should help with harmonics big time.
Its abouth time someone started making aftermarket dampers. I'll be intrigued to see someone give before and after impressions.

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Reno
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Link?

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D-UNIT
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This link? http://phase2motorsports.store....html

sorry modded bad link!
Modified by D-UNIT at 9:58 PM 7/11/2008

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Ajax
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[QUOTE=Mattism78]I know when you stroke a V8 you generally get more rpms out of it. My buddy has a 427 Z06 fully built/blueprinted/etc. It revs to like 7-8k. Car is insane.[QUOTE]Storking in and of itself is not the way to get more revs. Generally the stroker kits available also are made with higher quality materials (lighter and stronger, but more expensive) than OEM, thereby allowing the engine to spin faster. Just wanted to make sure that no one got the wrong idea about stroked engines. Your buddy's Z06 being blueprinted probably makes a huge difference in redline, too.

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Ajax
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oh, and btw, the AMS is almost ready to drop in the long block. We're getting close.


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