So would you say it wouldn't take any special tweaking or anything extensive?WDRacing wrote:The SSAC type mani and a T28 shouldn't make you lose ur AC. Just a matter of routing the piping the right way.
WD
This Peakboost manifold would go well with that setup It is A/C & power steering compatible.Neejay wrote:If I go bottom mount T28 setup, will I have to lose my A/C? I think the JGS turbo kit allows you to keep the A/C (if I go T3)
I edited your link. We don't allow non paying companies to link their products without becoming a sponsor. If you'd like to sponsor Nico, please go to the "Market Place" link in the top header.archull wrote:
This Peakboost manifold would go well with that setup It is A/C & power steering compatible.
Our shop car is the country's fastest KA-T that runs a similar manifold
Sorry, I thought that this was one of the forums that Carlos (the owner of SCTuned) was sponsoring. I just started working with them and I used to be a member of this forum back when I was rolling my s13 but I have since drifted away from this site as I had started working on Hondas. I didn't remember my old user info so I started a new on. But now I am back to the dark side now and I will be on this site more. I will not push anything. It was my mistake. I was given a list of forums that he sponsored and I could have swore this was one of them.WDRacing wrote:
I edited your link. We don't allow non paying companies to link their products without becoming a sponsor. If you'd like to sponsor Nico, please go to the "Market Place" link in the top header.
ThanksWD
What I meant is don't half a** it. If you are going to do it, do it right. I hate to see cars that are half assed. It always ends up and biting you in the rear down the road.WDRacing wrote:So you're comparing a $900 manifold to one that's under $100?
Or are you just pimping your company? With one post, I'd venture to say your pimping.
WD
No harm no foul man, good to have you back.archull wrote:
Sorry, I thought that this was one of the forums that Carlos (the owner of SCTuned) was sponsoring. I just started working with them and I used to be a member of this forum back when I was rolling my s13 but I have since drifted away from this site as I had started working on Hondas. I didn't remember my old user info so I started a new on. But now I am back to the dark side now and I will be on this site more. I will not push anything. It was my mistake. I was given a list of forums that he sponsored and I could have swore this was one of them.
I can understand your point of view as far as half assing something. BUT, the T2 bottom mount manifo,d has been used with great success over the last couple of years. That hardly makes it half assed at all. In fact it makes it quite the smart buy, because it leaves money foir the true things that shouldn't be half assed, such as fuel and igntion management.archull wrote:
What I meant is don't half a** it. If you are going to do it, do it right. I hate to see cars that are half assed. It always ends up and biting you in the rear down the road.
(cheap, reliable, fast) pick 2
Yeah, the manifold is a T3 flanged manifold and to be honest, I wouldn't suggest using anything smaller.WDRacing wrote:Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but the Peakboost manifold is a T3 flange type right? The SSAC type in question is T2 flanged.
WD
That is one thing that I never understood about the Nissan guys. (with the exception of the few) They like to run smaller turbos, manifolds that are flanged so small that they become a huge restriction in their systems.WDRacing wrote:You're preaching to the choir here man. I've stated 100's of times that the T2 flanged series is to small. The T3/TO4 in .48 AR is good to 400whp and suffers from zero lag. The .63 AR is good to almost 500, depends on the external WG size.
You can weld a T3 flange onto the SSAC mani though. That would be the cheapest route IMO, but not the best. I'd still use a simple JGS mani/turbo/dp combo. Great product at a great price...
Hey, i'll tell you why we run small turbo's. It's because we aint rich like you, if you would like to donate some money to us Nissan guys, then the average size turbo on nico would be bigger. And everyone will be happy boostingarchull wrote:
That is one thing that I never understood about the Nissan guys. (with the exception of the few) They like to run smaller turbos, manifolds that are flanged so small that they become a huge restriction in their systems.
I guess that is why I started messing with Hondas for awhile. These guys are nuts. I look at these guys with 2.0 liter engines running t4 divided manifolds with 4" Down pipes & exhaust running GT42's running 800+ HP. Some of these guys are just plain hard core and it was a nice break to what I was used to dealing with 240's.
I really missed RWD though. I am soooooo tempted to do a RB25 swap though. This will be a project that I am going to work on for awhile. I am going to need to get another chassis because I found more body rust than I am comfortable with on this one. I really want to get an S13 coupe in good condition.
you meantioned running .48ar and .63ar housings, lol. I am running a .82ar exhaust housing on my gt3076 and I hit full boost at 4200 rpm's and I rev up to 9k, lol.
Modified by archull at 11:41 PM 2/28/2008
Well, the key to having an enjoyable car is to have one that's not laggy, yet the compressor flows enough volume to support your required goals. There's no need for lag if you don't have to have it.archull wrote:
That is one thing that I never understood about the Nissan guys. (with the exception of the few) They like to run smaller turbos, manifolds that are flanged so small that they become a huge restriction in their systems.
I guess that is why I started messing with Hondas for awhile. These guys are nuts. I look at these guys with 2.0 liter engines running t4 divided manifolds with 4" Down pipes & exhaust running GT42's running 800+ HP. Some of these guys are just plain hard core and it was a nice break to what I was used to dealing with 240's.
I really missed RWD though. I am soooooo tempted to do a RB25 swap though. This will be a project that I am going to work on for awhile. I am going to need to get another chassis because I found more body rust than I am comfortable with on this one. I really want to get an S13 coupe in good condition.
you meantioned running .48ar and .63ar housings, lol. I am running a .82ar exhaust housing on my gt3076 and I hit full boost at 4200 rpm's and I rev up to 9k, lol.
Modified by archull at 11:41 PM 2/28/2008
This is exactly my point. I want to experiment with boost for the first time, so I've decided on a T28 setup because I only want like 300 MAX whp. I'm not trying to break any records or build a monster. I just want responsive, decent power without (personally) doing a overkill.WDRacing wrote:
Well, the key to having an enjoyable car is to have one that's not laggy, yet the compressor flows enough volume to support your required goals. There's no need for lag if you don't have to have it.
800whp is a total waste in a civic, I'd beat you every time in the 1320 with a simple 450whp combo in my 240. Traction limited sucks...
Big is NOT always better. Anything over 450whp is close to undriveable on the street.
You should drop by the Hybrids forum if your considering swaps man. We have quite a few LS guys as well as other random swap, such as a RB25 S10.
WD
I completely understand your point. To me though, I think of a t3 manifold and a gt30 makes a perfect street car. Not laggy but still has enough top end to make you smile. When you start going beyond that (unless we are talking about a much bigger engine) things are just too laggy for a fun daily driver. Now if you are doing an all out drag car, then go big or go home but for the streets I think the t3 & a gt30 is where its at.WDRacing wrote:When I was in Japan I had a stock T3 on my first Skyline, I cranked the boost as high as it would go of course but it was a friggin blast to drive. Then I swapped for a T4 setup from HKS, divided flange the whole shebang. Ruined the car...
Became worthless for anything besides drag racing. No more carving mountain roads, no more stop light to stop light fun.
Everyone must realize their own goals and take input from others and weigh it against those goals. If you can reach full boost by 3000rpm and still make an efficient 400whp I fail to see the need to upgrade. Unless your aspirations are for really big numbers, in which case you're going to be doing a lot of work to the motor anyway.
Never let people talk you out of what you want in life.
WD
I'm in college and couldn't afford much so I half-assed my mani and turbo setup by going ebay all the way but this left me more money to get 555cc nismo injectors, a jwt ecu and a z32 mafs which has been working flawlessly. Coming up on a year now, my ka-t has been running strong and the turbo and manifold has held up fine. I always say this about going ebay: there's no guarantees but possibilities.WDRacing wrote:I can understand your point of view as far as half assing something. BUT, the T2 bottom mount manifo,d has been used with great success over the last couple of years. That hardly makes it half assed at all. In fact it makes it quite the smart buy, because it leaves money foir the true things that shouldn't be half assed, such as fuel and igntion management.WD
WDRacing wrote:Everyone must realize their own goals and take input from others and weigh it against those goals.
Does this include the BB S15 T28? What's your opinion on it? This is what I was planning on getting.WDRacing wrote:There is a big difference between a GT series T2 and a T25 or T28 off of EBay. One being the ball bearing cartidge, the other being the compressor options. The GT2876r compressor flows enough to support 450whp. But the T2 exhaust housing is a restriction, so hitting 450 would be difficult. But with a 50mm wastegate, you retain enough exhaust flow to negate the T3 requirement for higher HP.
Then again, the GT series is $1000+
WD
12.6 @ 113spooled240 wrote:What is your trap speed?