ka-t how much is it gonna cost

[matt6669]

i spent all of last night till 12 o clock doing searchs and i found some pretty good information. but i still havn't found a clear answer yet so im hoping if i phrase it hte way i want it, ill get what im looking for.

how much is it going to cost to do a ka-t the RIGHT way. none of this used part crap and none of this home made bs. i want some form of realibility b/c i will be using this for every day. When i first decided to do something like this i was dead set on a sr motor, but the more and more i think about how its illegal i don't know if im game unelss turboing a ka motor is way outta my price range.

so can someone give me some prices to do a turboed ka vs a sr20.

also i wanna look at 12's specifically low 12's. Right now i have a wrx that was 13.3ish but i want more and i want rwd for the fun of rwd. So i can drive but i just need to know which route and how muchThanksMatt

[Altiman94]

as much or as little as you'd liek to it. There's really no set amount as to how much it costs to turbo a ka.

[matt6669]

well like i said to get into the 12'sthats my goal

[fiznat]

Lots. Lots more than a SR, if thats what you want to compare it to-- especially if you only want to buy new parts.

Think about it this way. A brand new turbo averages around $600 or more depending on what options you get. Fuel managment including injectors, pump, a rail, lines, a regulator maybe, and whatever unit you choose to control it with (ECU, SAFC, Piggyback, Standalone) will cost you at the VERY least another $600. Add in a brand new intercooler ($400 at the least), a wastegate ($200), blow off valve ($200), and an exhaust ($300-$700), which isnt even close to all the parts you need and you're already well over the cost of an SR. ....and that's not even building the engine at all-- which you probably want to do if your honestly looking at reliability and low 1/4 times..

Dont even think about doing a KA-T unless you're willing to drop some fairly big bucks though... that's my advice. People have done it for less, they're doing it all the time-- but they're all willing to sacrifice one thing or another: be it new parts for used, or slightly less reliability for a cheaper price.

Good luck man!

[2Fast240sx]

theres a xs and a greddy turbo kit for the s14s for roughly 3500

[574-240sx]

I pieced mine together for a little more than 2000. But I keep dumping more money into it. I'm at the poing where I need bigger injectors and possible thinking about a JWT ecu. Right now my car is step for step with my friends SR boosting 15psi. Like fiznat said it depends what kind of money you want to spend, either way they both will be expensive. Nick

[2Fast240sx]

I pieced mine together for a little more than 2000. But I keep dumping more money into it. I'm at the poing where I need bigger injectors and possible thinking about a JWT ecu. Right now my car is step for step with my friends SR boosting 15psi. Like fiznat said it depends what kind of money you want to spend, either way they both will be expensive. Nick

wow 2000 bucks that just increased my hopes of going ka-t

[ILikeMy240sx]

I want to go KA-T as well but more I read... more Im convinced that you cannot set a certain budget because like he said.... he started with 2000 then it just keeps increasing from there...

matt6669, if you want to get into the 12s.... that's alot of work and time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$. I think KA-T's usually run mid 13s or low 14s around there.... (heck ill be happy with mid 13)

Im setting my minimum to be atleast 3000

[SHIEF]

Like fiznat said it's not cheap. If you do it the right way, your going to spend more than a SR swap. BUT the money you spend will go a little farther into future plans with a KA. I've got about 3G's of stuff for my KAE just laying around, but it's all new stuff and I'm doing it the right way (wideband, guages, fuel manangement, spark/retard adjustment, etc.) I'd say I'll have about 5G's just in my engine setup w/o a standalone, just piggybacks. This is not including building the engine. But I know I'll be doing it once and not have to question anything I did down the road

[Drift Machine]

Well turbocharging a KA is also illegal.

And like fiznat said it's not cheap unless you want to sacrifice somethings. For example I pretty much made everything myself. I didn't buy any premade parts, excluding my JGStools manifold. So to the eyes my setup is less apealing then others. But then again it only cost me 2800 bucks for my setup, including a full turbo back exhaust and other parts such as clutch and flywheel.

[fiznat]

I have an ongoing list of money that I've spent on my car. Mine is a fairly serious buildup but just glancing at the list you'll see what I mean about things adding up:

1. MSD 50# Injectors + JWT Fuel Rail: $200 (U)2. HKS SSQV BOV: $145 (U)3. Ross 8.5:1 .20 over Forged Pistons: $5004. Apexi N1 Dual Exhaust: $300 (U)5. ETD Turbo Manifold: $360 6. KYB AGX struts:$3007. Eibach Pro-Kit Springs:$2008. MSD 6al Ignition: $80 (U)9. Blow off Valve Flange: $5010. 97 KA24DE + transmission: $200 (U)11. Engine Stand: $3012. RPS 6 puck sprung Clutch: $40113. Nissan OEM Pilot Bushing + Throwout Bearing: $4014. MSD Blaster II Coil: $3315. T3/T04E .50 Trim Turbo: $700 -360 Degree Thrust Bearing -High Temp Coating16. Turbo NPT Oil Fitting: $2717. PWR 30x8x2 Front Mount Intercooler: $35018. Tial 38mm Wastegate: $25019. Machine shop work + Parts: $1800 -Ferra Valves -Clevite Bearings -ARP Rod Bolts -Cometic Metal Headgasket -Refabbed Rod -Felpro Gasket Set20. 5 speed parts: $Trade for stock exhaust -Driveshafts -Shifter + boots & plates -Hardline + booster -Clutch + brake pedals21. New Alternator: $19822. New Starter: $14923. New Water Pump: $4524. New Timing Chain Tensioners: $14825. Optima RedTop Battery: $11026. Taylor Aluminum Battery Relocation Kit: $10527. Taylor Master D/C Switch: $2828. Braided Turbo Oil Feed / Silicone Return: $8029. Oil pan return bung: $230. Intercooler silicone connectors + Constant torque clamps: $185

*items marked with a "(U)" means I got it used.

...all that, and I still need (want) to buy the $2000 AEM EMS w/ the UEGO wideband, gauges (another $300), a cat, IC mandrel bends, fuel pump, and a whole ton of random little things.

It never stops, but hey this car is gonna be awesome!

...oh and btw check out our KA24DET section here, it's pretty good for answering questions and just reading up on general info and experiences.

Again, good luck!

[GEO]

I plan on getting the greddy kit + Greddy intercooler and Boost and EGT gauges to start off. Run at 7 psi and call it a day doe like 6 months till I can build up and get some mroe stuff.. bascially gonna cost me.. 3500... for everything to do it the right way at 7 psi.

[Doomed2Walk]

what the... lol, this whole time i was under the impression the pic in your sig was your car.

[gumby]

hmmm... well ive seen at least one post where it exploded

[matt6669]

wow thanks for the replies guysso if i were to do a sr swap, where will that put me in quater mile terms???just trying to figure out if i need to find a 240 with a blown engine or a running engine ahh the choices hahabut thanks for the answers

[jdmfreak]

Mid-low 14s

[ILikeMy240sx]

yea they to mid 14s stock but if you BPU the SR you shouldnt have any problem getting into low-mid 13s

[matt6669]

whats it going to take mod wise to get me into the 12's. I know it takes a lot just trying to figure out if this is the route i wanna go yet. frankly i want to have a bad *** car and i don't mind spending the money. The only thing is, i can only spend like 7 grand off the bat and that includes the price of the car. So im thinking its easier to get a car with a blown engine, throw in the sr motor and still have like 2 grand left over to play with. I don't mind spending like 10g's in mods to get it to run the way i want, i just can't do it all at once. Needs to be a step process so thats why i think the sr is the way to go. So im obviously going to need upgraded turbo, fuel, injectors and ecu, do i need to do engine work and what not to get me into the 12's throw out some prices for me guysthanks againMatt

[98s14inaz]

If you want any kind of power out of an SR you are going to have to rebuild it, get the upgraded oil pan, and start bolting parts on starting with a bigger turbo, injectors, mafs, ecu tuning. It will add up just as quick with an sr, probably more.

At least with KA you need less boost for more power compared to an sr. KA's are cheap so if you are learning hands on you can afford to make some mistakes.

If the KA is properly maintained and not abused it will take the power. Just don't skimp on tuning (fuel and timing) .

This is what I will be running...

-KA24DE 70k auto 240248 cams

-Greddy TD06 20G (polished compressor side, hpc coated turbine side w/heat sheild)-Greddy cast iron mani (hpc coated and tapped for egt)-Greddy down pipe (hpc coated)-stainless oil feed line-JGY KA24DE fuel railUSED $1500 give or take. $200 for HPC coating

-Greddy S14 KA24DE I/C kit NEW $720

-stainless oil return line, spare pan with fitting welded. $70

-Greddy Profec B Spec II NEW $260

-RC MSD style 500cc injectors NEW $240

-Z32 mafs with tomei plug and mafs filter adaptor USED $130

-96 S14 JWT ecu bought spare and had reprogramed USED $600

-recirculating diverter valve Bosch Porsche NEW free

-Walbro 255LPH high pressure fuel pump with modified s14 install kit NEW $100

-NGK BKR7E-11 spark plugs (5 is stock I will be running 7) NEW $7

I have around $3827 spent already. I am just trying to get the time for a good install. I also get to sell my NA intake and headers when I am done. Wheel, deal, and buy used you can do this for way under $4k.

My actual costs were a little lower because I sold the greddy rail for $150 and bought the JGY rail for $135. I also bought 4 injectors new for $240 and recieved 8 and sold the other set for $250. I got a free BOV from a friend. Well you see where I am going with this. Good luck. Happy boosting:-)

[Doomed2Walk]

for under 4k D: what clutch are you going to be using? and how much you planning on boosting?

[Onizuka]

If you want any kind of power out of an SR you are going to have to rebuild it, get the upgraded oil pan, and start bolting parts on starting with a bigger turbo, injectors, mafs, ecu tuning. It will add up just as quick with an sr, probably more.

dude, do you get all your SR info from the KAT forum?

Also, for you "dispacement is king" fans: If you gave the KA24 the same stroke as the SR (86mm), guess what its displacement would be? Yup you guessed it, about 2.0 liters.If you gave the SR20 the same stroke as the KA (96mm), guess what its displacement would be? Yup you guessed it, about 2.4 liters.

[98s14inaz]

for under 4k D: what clutch are you going to be using? and how much you planning on boosting?

No clutch, automatic ka-t, don't get me started it will take the power it has been proven. I don't drift. I autoX on occassion. This is my daily driver so my goal is a fast good handling car that doesn't cost $40k. I won't be doing anymore than that until I get my built engine done.

Quote »dude, do you get all your SR info from the KAT forum?

Also, for you "dispacement is king" fans:If you gave the KA24 the same stroke as the SR (86mm), guess what its displacement would be? Yup you guessed it, about 2.0 liters.If you gave the SR20 the same stroke as the KA (96mm), guess what its displacement would be? Yup you guessed it, about 2.4 liters.[/quote]First off don't call me "dude." Second of all the sr20 is a very good motor but it is a junkyard motor. Even a domestic tuner would not put a junkyard motor into a car and expect reliable big numbers. It is just common sense, you should pull it apart and at least put new rings and seals in . And last but not least don't go bitching about displacement. It isn't our fault the KA came with more displacement and puts down more power at the same boost level as an sr. Want a tissue.

[Chingon]

Scc made a "project silvia" that put down 12's with corrected altitude numbers. Might want to check the number to see what the mods were. Of course the price they quote are always msrp, so don't think you'll spend as much. As to how strong or reliable the setup they made is/was, I wouldn't know.

[Onizuka]

Secret services got over 550whp without even cracking open the bottom end of an SR, and I know tons of people (myself encluded) running modified SR's with the stock bottem end, every day, with absolutly no problems. If you want to spend and extra grand on new slugs and rods, thats your bag, stock intenals are fine for me.

Im not "bitching" about anything, im just saying the KA is basically a super stroked SR. Maybe if it that extra displacement was in bore increase I would care more, but all stroke does is create an undersquare motor that doesn't like to rev. There are 2.2 and 2.4 liter stroker kits for the SR, would I ever get one? No.... Im actually suprized non of you KA guys have destroked. KA20DE in japan has a square 86x86 bore and stroke, you could probably just swap blocks.

And I call everyone dude, or buddy, or man, or whatever, so dont be so offended, its part of my hippy influenced nomenclature

[98s14inaz]

Secret services got over 550whp without even cracking open the bottom end of an SR, and I know tons of people (myself encluded) running modified SR's with the stock bottem end, every day, with absolutly no problems. If you want to spend and extra grand on new slugs and rods, thats your bag, stock intenals are fine for me.

Im not "bitching" about anything, im just saying the KA is basically a super stroked SR. Maybe if it that extra displacement was in bore increase I would care more, but all stroke does is create an undersquare motor that doesn't like to rev. There are 2.2 and 2.4 liter stroker kits for the SR, would I ever get one? No.... Im actually suprized non of you KA guys have destroked. KA20DE in japan has a square 86x86 bore and stroke, you could probably just swap blocks.

And I call everyone dude, or buddy, or man, or whatever, so dont be so offended, its part of my hippy influenced nomenclature

Actually I should have clarified what I meant. The SR will take what ever you throw at it if it runs right, if it wasn't drifted to hell and back. The original poster asked what it would take to get him into the 12's. I didn't want him to think that he would just bolt in an SR and turn up the boost and have a 12 sec car. There are hidden costs. 12sec will take at least 350whp+. If he wants any kind of durability he should pull the motor apart and make sure there aren't any surprises.

These are junkyard motors that came from wrecked cars for the most part. I can't tell you how many sr's are down right now because no one bothered to check them over.

And yes Coleman got lucky to get a sound motor and so do these high $$$ tuner shops. The engine importers play favorites. Do you honestly think some no name kid with $3k is going to get the same quality motor as a tuner celebrity with lots of $$$ and publicity? I think not. Amatures have a higher probability to get cr@p, i've seen it happen.

The KA is not a "basically a super stroked SR." None of the parts are interchangable except for the injectors. They are two entirely different motors. Yes the SR revs higher. You don't need to rev that high when you have enough tourque to get the car moving down low. What is this obsession with reving high. I for one like the fact that I have power with out having to keep the rpms way up.

[Doomed2Walk]

lol, you need to chill homey. I don't care if you're driving an auto nor am I trying to dispute whether or not it can handle the power. I was just curious :P

[matt6669]

thanks for the replies guysthis is such a hard freaking decision i don't know what to do. i guess im just comparing it to my wrx(which i now hate) but when i had it modded with about 2 grand into it i was running low 13's but then again i got to look at it in a perspective of that i spent 20 grand for it so i guess if you look at it, for 22 grand i could have a niceeeeeee 240but i can't spend that much now since the wrx drained all my money so i gotta find a way to build a 240 that gets me what i want sooner or later but i need something strong to start off with

so its either ka-t and spend a lot off the bat and i personally don't know how to do a ka-t so i would have to have someone do it for me.

or i cna do the motor swap myself and save some money but some people tell me its gonna cost me more in the long run to do the sr.gahhhh i don't know what to do, i wish their was a clear answer

[Onizuka]

I know the KA and SR are not related, hence the KA and SR family designations. But in engine theory, what your block is made of or weather or not it is related to another motor doesnt matter. Bore, stroke, valvetrain, manifold design, etc are what really define a motors ability to perform. The KA, in engine theory, has an extremely similar setup to the SR, except that it has a much larger stroke. Both DOHC 16valve, cams chain driven, similar bore, long intake runners, etc.... heck they even have the same transmission.

I personally dont care where my motor came from, it was in good shape when it arrived at my door because I bought from a reputable seller with guarrentees. Its not that hard to protect yourself from a bum motor. Luck has nothing to do with it, dont take shortcuts or buy from the cheap guy. I AM a no-name kid, I payed $2500 for my motor and it was in 100% working condition when I got it.

My basic formula for the turbocharging price structure goes like this:

Turbo = not cheap

[98s14inaz]

lol, you need to chill homey. I don't care if you're driving an auto nor am I trying to dispute whether or not it can handle the power. I was just curious :P

Why would I need to chill. I am not excited or pissed. If I was I would be typing in all CAPS. I just didn't want the thread to be hijacked by people bashing autos when the guy asked what it would take to get into the 12's. I only mentioned my set up to show him how much money it could cost him to get started.

What I drive or how I drive it shouldn't determine if I know what I am talking about. Boosting the hell out of a junkyard motor is foolish and can be expensive for these kids with limited budgets. I apologize if my honesty offended anyone but I am not going to jump on the "JDM has to be better" band wagon. I am glad your SR worked out for you. A good number of the AZ240sx.org guys are having sr problems every week it seems. A few have finally learned and rebuilt and don't have any problems anymore.

I am still not buying that the KA and SR are similar. Cam on bucket versus rocker arm for one big difference. Coil pack versus distributor. Ok they are both four cylinders and made by nissan. That is where the similarities stop. This ins't a honda where you can swap and mix and match engine components. You know deep down you wish you were KA

Don't take stuff so personally. This is a discusion board therefore there will be spirited discusions that will in no doubt piss someone off.

[matt6669]

so if i could put this into perspective from what im reading, it goes like thissr motor right off the bat around 3 grand, to make it go into the 12's its probs another 3-5 grand depending how you do it

ka-t right off the bat anywhere from 4-how deep is my pocket,

seems as if the sr is gonna win this dispute in my position b/c i can only set up about 3 grand for motor and transmission and then 4 grand for the car so it seems like to get a car this isn't going to be that big of a dog when i buy my car it seems the sr is the way to do

then ill have jdm bling haha just kidding

thanks for your help guys, now i just need to find a 240 with a blown motor now the search begins