KA N/A upgrade parts?

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
elgarvo616
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Bigvinnie wrote:NISMO has made a fully counter weighed crank for the KA with newely designed pistons, and rods the bottom end cost $8000.


TrueSlide
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everything bigv said, plus HEAD WORK!! If you want to make power up top, your gonna have to make it breathe better. The KA IMO is a great motor. "Tug" whatever. I love mine, N/A is beautiful. Even though, once Iam done with this engine, after my rebuild and tracking it for a year or 2, a Chevy V8 is gonna go in.

My KA, almost done

TrueSlide
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240crawler wrote:You guys have a truck motor. A long stroke truck motor that is very lucky that it pulls to 7k. Get over it. Be proud that you have enough torque to drive in town. Try to pull 5th gear at 750 rpm in a Honda.

This "I wanna rev the piss out of a KA" is old. Buy a car that you can rev like a incestual hornet (Honda/Toyota).

Enjoy a good puling daily driver 4-cyl with 25mpg and live. Jesus, $3.25 a gallon is killing me. Drive like you have to pay for the gas. Drive like you have to fix your own car.
these guys have truck motors also!!

SWEET!


Bigvinnie
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pregmantis wrote:bigvin, whats your opinion of light/underdriven pullies. I wantedto take out the metal ring(heavy) out of my stock crank pully but...people say do it and others say dont.
Honestly I would go with the replacement of an aluminum fly wheel over a pulley anyday. I myself am running a fidanza aluminum fly wheel and a cheap after market pulley. I still don't feel much of a difference from the pulley, but I felt a huge difference in the aluminum fly wheel. Stock flywheel weighs on average 24.8LB.s, the fidanza flywheel weighs 11.2LB's and is CNC machined and ready to install no balancing required. This means I dropped over 13LB.s of overweight inertia from the flywheel, where as an aluminum, pulley on average is only going to drop between 4 and 5 LB.s of overweight inertia. Dropping the weighted inertia has increased HP at the wheels, has allowed for a better top end responce, overall a better investment than an aluminum pulley. Plus most aluminum pulleys don't come with timing marks and then you would have to use a digital timing light in order to yime the engine from TDC. If anything save your money (about $400) on a harmonic pulley dampener, they actualy smooth out rough portions of the power band and also allow for a bit more of high rev.... Aluminum pulleys.....Well... there just cheap and inexpensive, and only give you on average 2HP at the wheels and don't increase the powerband very much...

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Red coupe
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DrifterBoy240 wrote:and question, does anyone make smaller connecting rods for a KA so i can get good rod to stroke length for higher RPM's? talking to an old school racing guy who gave me an idea maybe it will work in the KA.
new rods wont change the stroke of the engine just where the piston sits in the chanmber, shorter rods would just be moving the area the piston travels in down and Im not sure why you would wanna do that, expecially on an NA engine.


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DrifterBoy240
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Red coupe wrote:new rods wont change the stroke of the engine just where the piston sits in the chanmber, shorter rods would just be moving the area the piston travels in down and Im not sure why you would wanna do that, expecially on an NA engine.
well from what i understand and what the older guy i talked to was telling me was that if you have a long throw crank and shorter rods and get some awsome rod to stroke length you make serious top end power becuase he used to build 350 chevy motors and put the 400 crank in it with the 350 rods he said he could walk all over people in his cars and claim it was a 350 but he knew what was in the motor so i asked him if it would work on the KA he said mayeb but when building and engine that hasnt been built like that before its all test and tune. especially with an engine with low demand for N/A performance.

pregmantis
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Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 12:11 am

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I think what the chevy dude is talkin about is a chevy 383. you take a 350 and put a 400crank into it among other things, If you put a 400crank in a 350 you would be increasing stroke unless you put a "turned down" crank(but why?)in the block.....you cant call it a 350 because its a 383, you could call it a 350 block though because it is. Im not sure but I think it would be better if our motors had a longer rod than a short one.

pr240sx
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NA upgrade list for normal DIYIntakeHeaderExhaust (2.5~3)Pulley FlywheelClutchtunningWeight reductionVLSDCamsPort & polish head, Comb chamber and exhaust porhigher compressionblueprinting, balancingcrank scraper, crank knife edging

You should be shooting near the 160~180 hp BEFORE opening you engine. After that, $$$ is the limit.

And you can have Inconel valves too!!


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DrifterBoy240
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well i guess now i should say what the car is gona be used for. my car will be used for DAILY use and auto-x,drifting,and mountain driving. so i want all the parts of the interior to stay in the car pretty much but i wil be stiffing up the frame of he car so it will hold up to the years of abuse it is about to endure.
pr240sx wrote:NA upgrade list for normal DIYIntakeHeaderExhaust (2.5~3)Pulley FlywheelClutchtunningWeight reductionVLSDCamsPort & polish head, Comb chamber and exhaust porhigher compressionblueprinting, balancingcrank scraper, crank knife edging

You should be shooting near the 160~180 hp BEFORE opening you engine. After that, $$$ is the limit.

And you can have Inconel valves too!!
why not just rip the motor apart and get all the internals done first so when you do, do everything else its already done and all you have to do is tuning and i think you forgot one thing

upgrade ignition.

Bigvinnie
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Why is it that when people do performance upgrades I never see adjustable timing gears. Really you can take the stock cams and easily pull peak power into 6200RPM just by retarding the cams. You can adjust for a smoother power band although you won't really be increasing HP, well maybe alittle, where ever you drop large numbers in torque by tunning the cams properlly you literally convert that power into the top end. So those that don't mind dropping a tad of torque to see higher HP that is what you would want to do....Thought I would bring it up since people want to see happy high reving KA's......

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BadMojo
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Bigvinnie wrote:Why is it that when people do performance upgrades I never see adjustable timing gears.
Jim Wolf Tech make some adjustable cam gears, but I don't know of any other companies. Still, they're only ~$150. I'm happy with the OE cams in my '93 KA24DE, but I've been considering the JWT gears. Seems like good bang for the buck.

TrueSlide
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only adjustable cam gear I have seen for the SOHC is sold through nissan, and it only advances the cam.

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DrifterBoy240
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well last i looked at JWT cam gears they were not being sold anymore becuase they were in devlopment of some new ones or something like that. i could be wrong. but any ways adjustable cam gears are on my list to buy and have always been there.

pr240sx
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My list of mods are for the common DIY.Usually done in stages (money wise)Not too many people can stop an engine, strip the block, went nuts on aftermarket parts, tune and check.Cam gears....humm, if dont know what you are doing you can bent a valve or crap the performance.

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DrifterBoy240
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pr240sx wrote:My list of mods are for the common DIY.Usually done in stages (money wise)Not too many people can stop an engine, strip the block, went nuts on aftermarket parts, tune and check.Cam gears....humm, if dont know what you are doing you can bent a valve or crap the performance.
yea that is true most people call there cars project cars and usually say they are never finished becuase there is always a new way to make it faster. or differant.

Bigvinnie
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pr240sx wrote:Cam gears....humm, if dont know what you are doing you can bent a valve or crap the performance.
Not with stocker cams there lift doesn't come close to hitting the piston, no matter where it is in rotation. The design is flawless, but yeah I can see how some one can fubar using JWT or PDM cams.

Bigvinnie
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TrueSlide wrote:only adjustable cam gear I have seen for the SOHC is sold through nissan, and it only advances the cam.
Old school trick that many Datsun guys don't like to give up... With minor modifying using the NAPSz timing chain, crank sprocket and cam sprocket. You can use the NAPS-z timing sprocket which advances or retards 3 degress.Or there is a company in Arizona that sells just the timing gear for the KA24e, but I don't remember off the top of my head....

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DrifterBoy240
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Bigvinnie wrote:
Old school trick that many Datsun guys don't like to give up... With minor modifying using the NAPSz timing chain, crank sprocket and cam sprocket. You can use the NAPS-z timing sprocket which advances or retards 3 degress.Or there is a company in Arizona that sells just the timing gear for the KA24e, but I don't remember off the top of my head....
wouldnt everyone kinda want to do that? and what about the dual cam KA i see alot of single cam KA stuff but not for dual cam? or am i just looking in the worng places.


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