Justin35ll's build thread

[Justin35ll]

In fall of 09 I lost oil pressure at drift nirvana. I quickly shut the engine off, but it was too late. Once I got it started back up it had a slight rod knock.My orignal plans were to just get new bearings and rings and put it back together, but I figured since I got the engine apart and it's winter I might as well just do a little build.

So I went ahead and bought CP pistons, Eagle rods, ACL rod and main bearings, and ARP studsI just picked up my block from the machine shop I got it bored, honed, align honed, decked, hot tanked, and the crank polished

Right now I'm just waiting on the bearings they should be here next week and then I can start reasembling.



I also bought a new shell to put it in, but it still needs to be repainted

[blueballa]

lookin sweet bro, what else are you gonna do to it? head? turbo? ecu? etc etc..

& dude, is the front end damaged on your new coupe?

[Justin35ll]

Well for now i just plan on running a metal headgasket, stock head, and stock turbo at 12 - 14 psi since I don't have money for turbo upgrade yet.

But when I save enough money I'll be doing a top mount t3 turbo build. and running about 25psi with hopefully no less the 385 - 400whp.

Either a holset or garrett turbo.

As for the head I'll probably just get some stage 2 cams and nto sure about the tune yet.

As for the coupe, yup its got a little front end damage, only cosmetic though on the hood and front bumper. Original plans were to go silvia front, but that won't be for a little while so I'll prob just get a new hood and probably wont run a front bumper, or I'll through on pignose.

[USMCgetsome]

hey justin i have a super t28 garrett compressor is .80 exhaust is .48 i believe it's a small upgrade but nice and fun. i'll send you some pics if your interested

[Justin35ll]

no thanks, need somethin bigger for my build haha.

I have these ARP main studs and I was having issues with them clearing the upper oil pan. I knew this was an issue so today I milled last 2 studs on the exhaust side down a little so they would fit.

I cut the last one a little short I didn't realise how much I was taking off.I'm kinda worried about it, but the nut still grabs at least 7 threads.

What do you guys think?

[USMCgetsome]

general rule of thumb is 2-6 threads past nut exposed.

[Justin35ll]

yeah I know I know that's why I was worried, hmm maybe I can find someone who will part me out 2 used ones?

Here's where I am after putting on the water pump and thermostat housing. Just trying to get a few little thigns done while I wait for the bearings to come.I gotta figure out what to do with the main studs first though

[USMCgetsome]

hey bro when your done playin around clean up the extra orange goop lol. You can use a wire brush to clean up the extra.

[Justin35ll]

Okay, I straightened out the problem with the main studs. I called ARP directly today and tehy were able to mail me 2 studs seperatley at 8$ a piece.

In the mean time I took out my valves to replace the old worn out stem seals. Also took a wire brush/wheel to clean the intake and exhaust ports and the valve and valve seats.

Uncleaned valve compared to cleaned valve

[blueballa]

yeah yeah yeah!. this build is starting to get hot brothaaa. everything im bout to do. good sh*t, keep up the good work and keep us updated.

[slowrb20]

what size bearings did you order and when you get the mains and the crank torqued post up your clearances/ please. lookin good so far man keeep it up

[Justin35ll]

I just ordered standard and standard since the crank was only polished and wasn't grinded.The mains were just honed so I think standard should work out good. The bearings are coming tomorrow so I can start doing some measuring

I finished all my valves today and somehow I'm missing 1 lower spring retainer. It just looks like a big washer. I don't know where it went, but hopefully I can find it so I don't have to buy one

[Justin35ll]

Okay, almost ready to reassemble. I'm just waiting on the 2 main studs that I had to order. They should be here this up coming week.

Today I was able to get a hold of some telescoping bore gauges so I measured all my oil clearances for the main journals and bearings, and the rod journals and bearings.

Rod1- 1.888 journal 1.890 bearing2- 1.888 journal 1.890 bearing3- 1.888 journal 1.890 bearing4- 1.888 journal 1.890 bearing

Suggested Nissan Bearing Clearances:Main Bearings Std .004 to .022mm (.0002 - .0009 in)Limit .05mm (.0020in)Connecting Rod Std .010 - .045mm (.0008 - .0018 in)Limit .65mm (.0256in)



Okay I hate doing all this measuring lol it's stressful.I tried redoing my main oil clearances and got these numbers.0.00230.00290.00230.00280.0024I'm just going to go ahead and use them. It must be my measuring that's off becuase every one of my main journals are in spec (2.1636) and with the standard size oil clearance there should be no problems

I started doing te end gaps on my pistons rings as well.

Modified by Justin35ll at 11:39 AM 1/24/2010
Modified by Justin35ll at 11:42 AM 1/24/2010

[yoozef]

subscribed to your thread, im gonna do the same thing soon, quick question, how much was your machine work? What bore? build looks nice so far, what's your goal hp wise?

[Justin35ll]

I'll make an update tomorrow I've been too lazy to take pics.I'm looking for 400+hp, but I still need decent repsonce as it is a drift car

Machine work was 750$ for bore(86.5mm, 3.406"), hone, alignehone mains, deck, hot tank, block prep, and crank polish

[Justin35ll]

I didn't really take any pics along the way since I was busy doin work, but heres the finished product. I torqued the crank in 3 stages from 30 to 50 to 70ft lbs. Then I measured and filed all the rings, set them up in the poisition CP wants them on the pistons andconnected them to the rods.I put my ring compressor on the pistons and hit them into the cylinders.1, 2, and 3 were easy 4 took about 10 times I kept getting cought up on the oil ring.

Then I torqued the rods down to 43 ft lbs.

Then I drove to nissan 25 mins away cause they were the only ones that had oneo f these orings in stock for the front cover/oil pump.

Now next thing I gotta do is bolt on the head. I'm dropping off my head tomorrow at the shop to get it ht tanked. Then I'm ordering a head gasket (cosworth 87mm 1.5) along with some other things (oil pan, oil cooler, gaskets, solid engine mount kit, nismo thermostat, etc.)

Will be updating whben I get the parts.

[Steady_One_S13]

Sweeeet SR rebuild! Can't wait to do the same.

[PhopsonNY]

Great Thread... bookmarked

Love the dog btw.

[nightsauce]

good s**t justin, you arent on aim anymore so i'll just follow you on the thread, you know how to reach me

[Justin35ll]

Yeah I only used aim to talk to you and one other friend, it's just easier to talk to everyone on facebook haha.I wouldh ave stopped by if you werent in class the other day when I was pickin up that oring

[yoozef]

any progress? i have a question for you, i have my block disassembled and the only thing i got left is to remove the water necks and the oil dip stick but i just wanted to make sure that these just pop out (i broke my CAS forcing it out, don't want to have to buy more parts). Let me know, thanks

[USMCgetsome]

someone tell me where that water neck gets hooked up to by the oil stick.

[Justin35ll]

Yeah, they are just press fitted in there. I had the machine shop remove them for me, but they ended up f***ing one of the water necks up a little. You're gonna have to try and band them out with a hammer and chizel.And when you reinstall them you're supposed to use some green press and seal loctite stuff the shop told me to use.

And yes there is progress I'll update this week as most of my parts are coming friday

[Justin35ll]

As I've been waiting for my new parts to arrive I started putting the head back together. I put all new valve stem seals in and then put the valves and springs back in, except for one since I lost the lower spring retainer.I will be picking up a new retainer tomorrow from nissan as I had them overnight me one and it will be there in the morning.



And for anyone who doesn't know how to install a valve stem seal. I used a 10mm socket on an extension for the intake side and a 7/16th socker on the exhaust side and just tapped them down into place. You will know when they are fully seated because the pitch on the sound from tapping it will change

Also got some new plugs in the mail and a new oil pressure sensor.More parts arriving friday.

I wanna get the head on by saturday, but I still need to press those fittings into the block and I need that green loctite, but no one seems to have it in stock.

[Justin35ll]

Okay, I think it's about time for an update lol. I pretty much got all my parts.cosworth 1.5mm 87mm head gasketsisis oil pan (wouldn't recommend, but I guess it's an alternative then spending 300 for a better one) Theres a nub on the inside of it that hits the splash shield inside the oil pan and I had to hack a piece of the sheild off to get the pan to fit on. And I had to find 1 bolt because the one of the ones they gave me was too long and it bottomed out before tighteningcircuit sports pullysnismo colder thermostatloctite 609 for the press fitted necks1 valve spring seat that I lostintake and exhaust gasketsAnd my solid engine mounts are coming today

I've been working on it non stop since I've been excited to get it all back together.

I put last valve in and then placed the headgasket on the block. Then placed the head on top and threaded all the arp studs in and torqued them in 3 stages up to 95 ft lbs.

Arp says 105 ft lbs and thats what I did the first time I torqued them but I've read on here that people torque them less and have no problems.



Then from there I did the timing and put the cams in. Then the front cover and the real oil seal cover. Then the upper and lower oil pan. Then the exhaust manifold, coolant lines, intake manifold, and the accessories.

And I also painted the valve cover metallic blue, but still need to do at least 2 more coats on it today. And I need to order a valve cover gasket today



So now I just have to do a couple little things on the engine and finish repainting the engine bay, then take it off the stand and put the rear main seal in, the flywheel, clutch, and bolt on the trans and it should be ready to go back in.
Modified by Justin35ll at 7:28 AM 2/8/2010

[USMCgetsome]

saw this yesterday

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1167

why didn't you like the isis oil pan?

[Jah1mon]

You made a lot of progress in a short amount of time, nice job!

What will be your break method for this engine?

[nightsauce]

so when is she going in? or is it in already? def made progress from when i last spoke to you

[Justin35ll]

It's in, not running yet. I will update tomorrow I've been slacking with the thread

[PyR0NiAk]

I'm sorry if you mentioned this, but how did you clean the top of your block? Did you take it to a machine shop and have it decked, or did you do it yourself with a razor blade or something?