Just got a '99 Q. Need help/advice

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QBaller
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Picked up a '99 last weekend. On the way home (Orlando to Atlanta) and subsequently noticed a few things: At above 75MPH or so, the car starts to vibrate. I stopped and got the front wheels balanced. No difference. Had to drive home at around 75. Very painful.

There is also a vibration I can feel through the pedal on acceleration from stop.

CEL came on on the way as well. Pulled the code yesterday. Says 'O2 sensor, bank 2 senseor 2. Where is that located?

In slow/stop-and-go traffic, the car wobbles a bit. Does not 'crawl' smoothly.Also the transmission does not shift as smoothly as I would have expected.And last but not least, the car is longer than my pathfinder but the trunk space is a joke! What's up with that?

I was searching for info on the vibration, there are some posts but I couldn't get a definite answer. Thanks for any info.

Wil


Q45tech
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Obviously you did not pay an independent technican to evaluate and list [price] all the work required to return this 8 year old USED car to as new. BEFORE YOU PURCHASED!

Why used cars cost <25 cents on the MSRP dollar........probably just brake rotors warped, wheels and tires and rubber isolation components and shocks. O2 sensors usually fail in pairs only a matter of time.

Call T3 ATL [404-794-7700] and they will provide a $75 post buy inspection or just pay $30 for an oil change and get a quicky list for free.

QBaller
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Kick a man when he's down, why don't you!Seriously, thanks for responding. I did indeed take a gamble and I'm willing to, if I have to, invest in having the vibration problems straightened out. The car is in decent overall shape and I'm keeping my fingers crossed it won't turn out to be a bad purchase.

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elwesso
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Weclome to NICO Wil.

As much as you may not like it, tech is right. This purchase sounds pretty good for the seller Thats not to say we cant get this figured out for a reasonable amount of money... Y33s are starting to show their age, like G50s were a few years ago..

Anyway, i think tech is right. Your vibration is likely due to tires, wheels and rotors..... We need a mileage on the car and also other details. What kind of tires are you running, when were rotors last replaced (if at all)?

The o2 sensor listed is the rear o2 sensor on the passenger side. located behind the cat. I would recommend buying both of them and having the other one handy for when the drivers side goes otu (may be a while, may not)..

We havent seen many Y33s with driveshaft related vibraitons so im not sure thats what it is... Certainly sounds like tire vibrations. Did you ever notice the vibration changing, or was it roughly the same all the time? Meaning like when it was colder was the vibration worse or better?

maxnix
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Obtain the dealer performed service history before you take it to T-3. This will give them and you a clue for what to investigate.

Prospective purchasers who find this ste and read a lot before buying usually made a better deal on a better car. Hopefully yours doesn't have too many problems as the ones you mentioned are not at all common.

T-3 is you savior. Go worship!
Modified by maxnix at 8:24 AM 5/16/2006

QBaller
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Okay I checked the tires. They're Dunlop 200E. OEM size. The front tires are in good shape. The back ones are more worn but not critically. I've driven with balder tires before.I will stop at the dealer on the way home and get a copy of the service history.The car has 93000+ miles. I paid $9k for it. See listing link .http://cars.com/go/search/deta...=true In stooping next to the tires, I get the impression that the tires are more worn on the inside. But looking at them from behind the car (or in front) they seem more or less evenly worn across. I just ordered two O2 sensors from sparkplugs.com (almost paid close to twice at the store)I'll see what the service history looks like

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Rex
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Vibrations can be almost anything, but some things to "check" are ...

Do they increase if you run the same speed, but have the car in 3rd, instead of 4th/D?

Does hard braking make them worse?

Do they seem to "go away" if you you let the car coast?

Swap the front wheels/tires to the rear and see if that has any impact.

The uneven wear may point towards some (expensive) suspension parts .

There's a very good reason you were able to pick up a ~$50k new car for <$10k ... it's in need of some repairs.

I'm pretty sure the gas tank is in the trunk behaind the seats, that's why the trunk seems so small. I know it is on the G50 (90-96) version of the Q45. Yours is a Y33/FY33 for future reference.

Welcome to NICO.

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Falkdesigns
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FWIW, I had to replace the two secondary O2 sensors w/in a month of getting mine. The vibration could be brakes if the rotors are warped, it could be tires, wheels or alignment. Sorry I can't help out with that issue. You'll get it sorted though. The gas tank is indeed behind the seat, but you can still fit a body in the trunk.... lol.

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FarFetched
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WOW!Buying at Infiniti dealership w/o asking history, that's a miss. Also, dealership low-balled this Q PDI. I hate cheap bastards like that (talking about dealership) Cheers!


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FarFetched
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Falkdesigns wrote: The gas tank is indeed behind the seat, but you can still fit a body in the trunk.... lol.
A few bodies in there Russian Style

Q45tech
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There isn't a [V8] used car with 60k+ for sale in the US that doesn't need $3,000 worth of work/servicing to run/drive like brand new.

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You probably also need to replace the front torsion bars, my 97' had 74k and i replaced those and huge difference.

I think you should go to a full service tire place, get your rotors turned, new tires (just bite the bullet and get fresh new rubber, an alignment and than see where you stand. I bet that clears most of this up.

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One othe thing, I thought the trunk was a joke too when I got the car. While it is small, the shape is VERY useful as it is nice a rectangular. You will be surprised how much it can hold....granted my mom's Camry has lots more room but dad's LS430 ain't much bigger. If you want a big trunk get a Lincoln.

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elwesso
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BadQ45t wrote:One othe thing, I thought the trunk was a joke too when I got the car. While it is small, the shape is VERY useful as it is nice a rectangular. You will be surprised how much it can hold....granted my mom's Camry has lots more room but dad's LS430 ain't much bigger. If you want a big trunk get a Lincoln.
I agree.. The same thing applies to the G50, you would really be surprised how much stuff you can pack in there...

maxnix
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QBaller wrote:Okay I checked the tires. They're Dunlop 200E. OEM size. The front tires are in good shape. The back ones are more worn but not critically. I've driven with balder tires before.
Don't see a 200E listed on TireRack. Plan on changing them out very soon as there are no rewards for employing worn out weak tires.

Dunlops have a seriously bad history on Infinitis in general, and Q45 in particular. Were only an OEM alternative for one year, then recalled.

QBaller
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Thanks for all the feedback.I retrieved the service history report from the dealer; I note on 4/29/06 the dealer 'Align front and rear susp". I think that means that the wheels were aligned??Seems like the coils were replaced on 5/30/05. Looks like they replaced the A/C compressor in '04 as well.

Anyway, I'll replace the tires and the rotors. The car does not vibrate when I apply the brakes...stops smoothly. So I figure the rotors are fine, but I'll replace them.I see drilled and slotted rotors on ebay. Is that type of rotor generally good for the Q?What tire do you guys recommend? I stopped at BJ's yesterday, they quoted $175 per tire, installed. I think those were the OEM tires.

BadQ45t
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Not sure what BJ's is but you can do a hell of a lot better than that OEM for 175. I you have the stock 17" rims you can put 245/45 16 tires. If you can find someone to mount them tire rack can kick butt....but for 16" rims you shouldn't have to pay that much for OEM. Search on tires on this site, lots of reviews. I'm running Yokohama ES100's which were WAY better than stock that were 110 per tire in 17" from tire rack.

DrewQ45
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QBaller wrote:Thanks for all the feedback.I retrieved the service history report from the dealer; I note on 4/29/06 the dealer 'Align front and rear susp". I think that means that the wheels were aligned??Seems like the coils were replaced on 5/30/05. Looks like they replaced the A/C compressor in '04 as well.

Anyway, I'll replace the tires and the rotors. The car does not vibrate when I apply the brakes...stops smoothly. So I figure the rotors are fine, but I'll replace them.I see drilled and slotted rotors on ebay. Is that type of rotor generally good for the Q?What tire do you guys recommend? I stopped at BJ's yesterday, they quoted $175 per tire, installed. I think those were the OEM tires.
Check out http://www.irotors.com for the rotors, however, I suggest spending on the really necessary items first since you don't know all that's wrong yet.

For Tires, check http://www.Tirerack.com, price the tires you'd like then print it and take it to a local tire shop (I go to Bulldog tires in Snellville off 78) and have them match the price. You may have to sweet-talk a bit...but they almost matched Tirerack's price on my Sumitomo's and it was actually a big savings for me since there was no shipping involved. Walmart is also the best at tire prices and you can get mounted with roadhaz for 9 bucks a tire. Thats where I got my truck tires and they beat Bulldog Tire in the sense that there is no labor charge involved when replacing a tire under the warranty.

I'm here in the ATL area so If you'd like me to take a look at the car I'll be happy to assist.

...Drew..

Q45tech
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The 94 series Q came OEM with 200 tread wear tires [special design for Q nondirectional Dunlop D80V4] anything harder and longer lasting will seriously increase braking distances and reduce handling.

These tires are no longer available since 2002. These tires were notedly inferior to The Michelin Sport XGTV tire that was OEM on the 90-93 series.

These Michelins were 160 treadwear and worn out by 15,000 miles if well maintained and frequently rotated.

The 97 + series came with Michelin in the touring version.

The point is to return to as built and tested performance the tires MUST be EQUAL to what was used/designed for the Q.

Due to extreme weight [compared to most cars] the front tires are much more significant in braking and handling than the rears [acceleration focused].................................try to fit a higher than 95V to gain performance even with inferior tires.

Very cost effective to go higher in load index as this will increase useful life of the tire you chose and improve things slightly in the performance area over oem size.

QBaller
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Drew,Thanks for the offer. Email me at [email protected] idea to have someone who knows about these cars to take a look rather than me floundering around in the dark.Here's a pic of the car...

QBaller
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Make that a really big picture of the car....

maxnix
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Very nice. You may just have to turn the rotors and install new OEM pads.

Be very scared of cheap rotors. If after market, stick to genuine PowerStops or Brembo. A lot of people on the internet are selling counterfeit knock-offs.
Modified by maxnix at 2:00 PM 5/17/2006

Q45tech
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are selling counterfiet knock-offs.

Every rotor is a copy of the oem Nissan whether they are the equal depends on how the Chinese [Polish or other] ladle pourer felt that day and the quality of the scrap iron junk we sold them.

The least expensive [nondrilled non slotted] rotors run $17, the most $55-$61 then these get doubled or tripled thru the retail selling price markup.

Hint if you see a black anodized hat on a one piece rotor or anodized yellow these are the highest quality units from China.

DrewQ45
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QBaller wrote:Drew,Thanks for the offer. Email me at [email protected] idea to have someone who knows about these cars to take a look rather than me floundering around in the dark.Here's a pic of the car...
Don't know much about Y33 but have owned my G50 since 98'. I'm no expert by any means, but sometimes two heads are better than one. Just drop me a line with your contact info.

..Drew..

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bullittandy
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QBaller wrote:Kick a man when he's down, why don't you!Seriously, thanks for responding. I did indeed take a gamble and I'm willing to, if I have to, invest in having the vibration problems straightened out. The car is in decent overall shape and I'm keeping my fingers crossed it won't turn out to be a bad purchase.
I second this sentiment. The help/advice needed was about a vibration at speed, not critcism about his recent car purchase. If someone asks, "Did I make a mistake" then you can answer, "You made a mistake."

maxnix
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bullittandy wrote:I second this sentiment. The help/advice needed was about a vibration at speed, not critcism about his recent car purchase. If someone asks, "Did I make a mistake" then you can answer, "You made a mistake."
The point of Q45tech's post is that an unresearched car purchase leaves the vulnerable buyer exposed to substantial post purchase expenses that are directly correlated in magnitude to the degree of his self imposed ignorance of the car's condition as evidenced by its service history and an inspection report from a qualified senior Infiniti technician.

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bullittandy
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maxnix wrote:The point of Q45tech's post is that an unresearched car purchase leaves the vulnerable buyer exposed to substantial post purchase expenses that are directly correlated in magnitude to the degree of his self imposed ignorance of the car's condition as evidenced by its service history and an inspection report from a qualified senior Infiniti technician.
I understand Q45tech's point. However, I don't think that you understand my statement. The NEW guy asked for advice about a vibration at speed, not about his "self-imposed ignorance" (your words, possibly Q45 tech's idea). However, this guy didn't make a mistake. He bought a used car and is now asking this forum for help on how to fix it.

DrewQ45
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bullittandy wrote:
I understand Q45tech's point. However, I don't think that you understand my statement. The NEW guy asked for advice about a vibration at speed, not about his "self-imposed ignorance" (your words, possibly Q45 tech's idea). However, this guy didn't make a mistake. He bought a used car and is now asking this forum for help on how to fix it.
"Self imposed ignorance".... hmmm? The word Oxymoron comes to mind... I don't think Q45Tech would have thought that one up.

These guys give good advice so don't be discouraged (Q45Baller). Tech is one of the most knowledgable individuals on the Q45 that I can think of. There are also many others with a great wealth of info here, Maxnix included. Be patient and just read. Sometimes the personalities may seem abrasive at times, but it's better than not getting the knowledge and being $hafted politely at the dealer or some shop. I skim over all the BS an soak up the sweet knowledge.

...Drew....

maxnix
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bullittandy wrote:I understand Q45tech's point. ..... However, this guy didn't make a mistake.
I think your second statement utterly refutes the first.

All actions, or inactions, have their consequences, whether or not their manifestations are predictable or not. End of lesson.

Rotational vibrations emanate from many sources. We need more information on period and intensity vs. road speed and engine rpm.

QBaller
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Again, thanks for all the comments and suggestions.I did ask for help and advice. While the words of wisdom regarding pre-purchase inspection/research won't help me now, it'll likely help me in the future, plus it will likely help other readers of the forum so that they may avoid the same er, potential mistake. Those comments were not misplaced in my opinion. Anyway, as they would say in those lawyer shows; "asked and answered".So moving along:I put the rear tires up front (and the front ones aft) and I noticed that the car now pulls to the right. The vibrations have subsided some, but are still there. This tells me that I do have a tire issue at least. I haven't been quite able to get the car up to 80 MPH yesterday (Atlanta traffic and too lazy to make a special after-hours highway trip).With regards to the vibrations, it starts as a slight shimmy at around 40MPH as I accelerate to around 60-65, I notice an increase in vibration. Above 75 MPH or so, the vibration is enough to rattle the water bottle in the cup holder. Haven't monitored the RPM but I haven't exceeded 2500 to 3000 or so RPM.Like I've said, I'll replace the tires. I'll do that first and observe the handling.As for the transmission, the first-to-second and second-to-first shift is a bit rough, with a slight jerk. Is this normal. I'm in a lot of stop-and-go traffic so I notice this a lot. Would a transmission fluid change help? What transmission fluid do these cars take? is it that expensive Nissamatic thing that I put in my pathfinder?By the way, you guys on this forum are much more civilized that the folks on some other boards. There was this joke I saw on another board about how many posts it takes to answer a question. It was pretty funny. I'll see if I find the link. Later...

Wil


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