'junkyard' CA20DET howto

Post by **float_6969** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 4:47 pm

Why not just run the CA20 pully with the CA20 alt and ps + brackets? That seems like the easiest route, unless they are like the FWD CA18 and on the wrong sides of the motor.

Post by **tyrannix** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 2:09 am

float_6969 wrote:Why not just run the CA20 pully with the CA20 alt and ps + brackets? That seems like the easiest route, unless they are like the FWD CA18 and on the wrong sides of the motor.

i dont like your tone, please submit all requests no less than 3 business days prior

Post by **tyrannix** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 3:37 am

float_6969 wrote:Why not just run the CA20 pully with the CA20 alt and ps + brackets? That seems like the easiest route, unless they are like the FWD CA18 and on the wrong sides of the motor.

well, because right now, i dont have any of it except the ca20 alt tensioner (looks about the same as the ca18det one) ... the big ring on teh crank pullies have teh same ribs. a CA20 ALT might work with a CA18DET 3 ring pulley

but more to my point> the ca20 block is in the back of my truck right now, head removed, going to the machine shop today to get head bolt holes rethreaded, and when i get a stud for teh idler pulley, thats going in too

but just a quick glance at the top of the cylinders today (still had remnants of the old head gasket on) reveal a good chunk of cylinder wall. measurements to come when i get home from work, before i go to the machine shop

i need to compare crank timing cog too, i read that there was a problem with them that has to be overcome for it to work, offhand, it looks a bit smaller with sleightly different tooth spacing than the 18det onean idea popped in my head to check out the CA16DE that was on that pulsar, and check out the crank, also to try and get ahold of a CA18ET cog... and see if either of them will just work out of the box

once that issue is solved, i have info from a place that will make the custom timing belt to suit

Post by **float_6969** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:20 pm

I thought somebody figured out a belt from a volvo or an audi that would work? Maybe I'm full of hooey. Maybe chocolate pudding should be purple instead. Either way, I'm going to have to wait 3 business days prior. (WTF is all that about weirdo?!?!? )

Post by **tyrannix** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:52 am

float_6969 wrote:I thought somebody figured out a belt from a volvo or an audi that would work? Maybe I'm full of hooey. Maybe chocolate pudding should be purple instead. Either way, I'm going to have to wait 3 business days prior. (WTF is all that about weirdo?!?!? )

i seemto remember something about that too, but i don't remember if it was for a CA20DET, or just an interchangable CA18 belt

anyway, i didnt have time to measure the spacing on the cylinders. But the short block is at the machine shop to get head bolt holes retapped for the DOHC head ones, and as soon as i stop being lazy, Jason can probably get a new idler stud in Germany (stealership inventory computer for the whole USA says no dice)

but everything is on pause for a bit. going down to san diego for a week, picking up a cressida and then when i get back the 4age will be finally ready to go back into the ae86, and after thats all done, THEN i can finally pull the CA out of teh s13 to get the crank helicoiled

turns out im on med hold now.... they wont let me out because my back is messed up. so im on a med board now, and have to wait until thats over before i can get out, move, and get the new house/job

But, on the plus side, it gives me a little more time to get everything sorted out up here before i have to leave

CJ

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 4:44 pm

Wait, the military can not let you leave because you're sick? That's kinda cool actually, since they have awesome benifits!

Post by **Eurisko** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 8:22 pm

Hey champ! Good going so far with the conversion.

Ive been doing a lot of research on this conversion as well (Im not going turbo, just NA). Are you sure the teeth are the same on both the crank pulley and the camshaft pulleys on the ca18 and the ca20?

Ive heard that they are different, and the ca18 pulley is needed for the conversion (or a cnc'd custom one).

Can you confirm that?

*EDIT* Opps, i missed your post... you figured that out already. :P

Well, theres a guy who has a ca20det running and another guy in new zealand whos done the conversion as well. But youve probably seen them already...

Post by **float_6969** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 3:30 am

links?

Post by **datsunboy** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:43 am

there was a thread on this forum about my mates Datsun with CA20DET in it ( NZ ), but after searching, I cant find it.

but here is the exact same thread, on a different forum

http://datsun.co.nz/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2362&

Post by **Scorpile** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 12:21 pm

I can tell you... that the CA16DE, CA18DE / T time belt pulley's are different to CA20's.

Post by **Eurisko** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:54 pm

Here is the post, and a video as well...

http://www.twincam.org/forums/...=2923

And another here as well...

http://www.twincam.org/forums/...9268

Post by **tyrannix** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:50 pm

ive discovered a solution to the problem of timing belt and crank pulley.

for the timing cog:i can have teh ca20 cog cut down so it becomes a spacer (with a notch) so that the ca18 DOHC cog can be used.

basically the same concept for the crank pulley. have the ca20 one machined down so that it fits inside the ca18 one (againk with a notch, so that it can lock the pulley in place, just liek stock)

then its just a matter of using a ca20 oil pump and everything should be good (if not, another spacer can be made.... and then if none of this pans out, then theres always a ca18 crank... ill have to see if this is going to work, and go from there

everything is going really slow now as real life is taking presidence over car fun :\

CJ

Post by **biosehnsucht** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 6:01 pm

wouldn't it be easier to have someplace CNC a cylinder of inner radius A=crank radius and outer radius B=CA18 crank radius, with depth/length of C=whatevr is normal and then cut a notch for woodruff? hell, even cut it so that it has first an OD of the notch, then cut everything but the notch down to the "real" OD.. seems like it'd be simpler than having the cog cut..

Post by **tyrannix** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:12 pm

that is another possibility. 6 of one, half a dozen of the other. the end result is teh same thing, a spacer that holds the DOHC parts onto the thinner CA20 crank

i am going to see whichever is easier for my machine guy to do, then that will be the deciding factor.

Post by **float_6969** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:36 am

Is the CA20 crank counter balanced like the CA18 crank is?

'junkyard' CA20DET howto

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