IT RUNS...sort of

[seanman]

OK GUYS, i got it to turn over and sit at idle. but when i gave it a tiny TINY bit of gas it stuttered and shook then died. then i noticed smoke coming out of my turbo area... im going to check the timing and make sure its all good. anyone know whats up?

[Seishuku]

Vacuum leak? Check for leaks after the MAF.

[seanman]

will do. i just timed it to 15 +-2 degrees. i have my mechanical boost controller set so its the stock psi, at least thats what perrin says. the instructions say to unscrew it to 5 threads and thats w/e your stock psi is. would a leak cause smoke? i think it might just be some heydro fluid that got on it a bit from my master

[Seishuku]

Yeah, the smoke is probably just something burning off.

[seanman]

whats the best way to test for a boost leak?

[seanman]

alright so i kinda did a boost leak test, just felt around the cuplings and whatnot. i timed it to 15 +-2, and when i did this i was noticing the spark was kinda off, it would be perfect on for a few seconds then the notches on the crank would disapear and i would have to fiddle with the cas to make them show up again. whats happening??

[austins240]

unplug your TPS when setting timing

[nxpoweredsr20]

you can do a boost leak test by spraying your couplings and stuff with a bit of starting fluid....if there is a leak the motor will sputter...then you know you have a leak

[Rusker]

unplug your TPS when setting timing

unplug your TPS when setting timing

Just curious why that is

[seanman]

cause if you dont then its constantly trying to fix the change in what you're doing with the CAS.. makes sense to now lol

[Tx-Sx-FS]

tps, is that true for ka24de too?? im sr20dead so now on kat, but let me know.

[Hijacker]

tps, is that true for ka24de too?? im sr20dead so now on kat, but let me know.

Yes

[seanman]

ok so i timed it w/o the tps connected, put it back on and it idles great, but there is excess fuel smell coming from my car, i reved it a few times and it reved but then i gave it a bit more gas and it stuttered and a piston or two seemed to not fire. I do have a walbro 255, and i've done some research and some people say you need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. should i go for that?

[ser2102]

my boost controller actually causes my car to die at idle, it takes some warm up time before i can give it gas without dieing.

make sure your boost controller is installed right.

[seanman]

its a perrin manual boost controller. i have a vac line running from my hot pipe to my boost controller then to my wastegate. they said unscrew it till theres 5 visible threads and that should be your cars stock boost. i'll fiddle with it a bit. I've read tho that usually with a walbro 255 you should get an adjustable fuel regulator tho

[seanman]

alright i messed around with my boost controller a bit and it didn't seem to do much. so should i go after an adjustable fuel regulator?

[240sxConvert]

See if it is firing on all four cylinders...just pull the coil packs one by one and it should affect the way the engine idles...if you pull one and it doesnt change you are either not getting spark, not getting fuel, or have no compression on that cylinder...

[seanman]

ill check, but i've pulled the spark plugs out a few times and checked to see if they were saturated, but they look fine.

[Hijacker]

Make sure your injetcors are firing properly. Usually, I'll take a long bladed screwdriver and set the tip on top of the injector and then put my ear to the handle end of the screwdriver. You can hear them tick if it's running right. If you have access to something like a stephoscope, those are much better, but the screwdriver works in a pinch.

If you're not getting an audible tick, then either the injector isn't getting a pulse (you can check that with a noid light) or the injector is stuck. It's possible to reopen a stuck injector by lightly tapping it while the motor is running, but it's not a guarantee.

Checking spark is easy. Pull the coil pack and put a screwdriver in the tip and then have someone crank the motor while you touch the screwdriver's metal shank to the valve cover. If you get an arc, your coil packs are firing fine.

Compression testing will require a compression gauge.

I'd say run those tests before you start buying parts and slapping them on. While I do believe that running a 255 lph pump on a stock FPR will lead to eventual failure, the car will still run and drive fine. It just enrichens in the upper rev range.

[seanman]

ok so i took out the coilpacks one by one, it sputtered everytime. i listened for the injector tick and heard it on all of them, i pulled out my spark plugs and checked them all and they have excess fuel on them, not drenched, but good and dark. i tweaked around with the idle control a bit. heres a video, see if you can hear it sounding weird

[duffman1278]

Are you sure you don't have a leaky injector? Have you checked your fuel pressure yet? Pull out the fuel rail, put a cup or some rags under each injector, and then turn the key all the way, but DON'T turn on the car. See if any of the injectors are passing fuel through when you do that, it should not when you do this.

Also, try making a boost leak tester, its quite useful and an EASY trouble shooter. It'll cost you at most, 10$ to make.

Take out your spark plugs and let the possible fuel inside of your cylinders evaporate.

[seanman]

ok. but im pretty sure the injectors are fine. there was only 54,000 miles on the engine when i got it from tigerjapanese. and they did tests on it and said it was in great shape. the reason im so keen on the fpr is cause with my old ka24e the fuel pump was going bad and the car ran a bit shotty, so im sure that could have screwed up the fpr.

[duffman1278]

almost ALL engine importers will tell you the engines good to go. You really need to verify the previous things I suggested. Not just by looking at it either lol. It may seem like tedious work but its better to be sure than to keep scartching your head about it.

As I have mentioned, check the fuel pressure, with a gauge, that way you know.

[seanman]

my buddy called and i told him about how my car was acting and he said his was the exact same way and the problem is the maf. the engine pretty much cuts out at around 2-2500 rpm and i checked my voltage to the maf and its all correct so im gunna be replacing it with a z32

[duffman1278]

Why a Z32??? iirc, you'll have to have it tuned for that MAF or it'll give you problems.

[seanman]

lol, i just remembered i still have my sohc maf so i put that on and it revs now!! and i noticed a boost leak on the flange weld for my BOV. so i put gasket sealent all the way around it. its curing now

[blackmagic]

my car is acting kinda the same way. i press on the gas and it studders and tries to die so i let off and it will heat up for about a min. then i will press the gas very slow and soft you rev it to about 2000rpm then you can take all your anger out and rev it how ever high you want. but as soon as it goes below 2000rpm it acts up again idk whats going on. it could be the maf iv had so many wiring prob. im starting to think i could have another one im about to send it off to get checked professionaly if somthing doesnt get fixed soon here

[blackmagic]

o yeh and i had the smoke coming from turbo area and it also smells like burning plastic or rubber. im wondering if im not getting coolant to the turbo. or somthin

[seanman]

ok so im still in the process of tuning my engine. heres the thing, i have my bov connected to the bigger vacuum line coming off the intake and i hear the nice hks whistle of death, and inbetween that line i have a t spliced in where my boost gauge comes off of, but whenever i rev the engine the gauge doesnt move. the car still feels kinda sluggish too like im not getting all my power. i have a vacuum line coming off my hot pipe that goes to my manual boost controller which connects to my wastegate actuator. then the two lines that come into one at the intake i just have capped off after they become one line. then the bottom vacuum line that everyone says to cap off, i have. does all that sound correct? and if so does it seem like i have a boost leak?

edit: the gauge moves, but only when i let off. can i put it between my boost control and wastegate?
Modified by seanman at 12:01 PM 2/2/2008

[seanman]

bump