Is this bad?

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StryfeS13
Posts: 517
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

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So I'm in the process of installing all new gaskets to my head. Every gasket will be replaced, because my car had a blown hg anyway.

I took out the fuel rail and found that only injector 1 has a nozzle on it. 2,3,4 dont have nozzles. How bad is that?

This is injector 1

This is what injector 2,3,4 look like


triple r
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Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:29 am
Car: 1991 nissan 240 sx se

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if they are stock injectors..........yes. that nozzle keeps it from fouling the plug out under load. how did the car even run like that? i had this same problem. it would idle and when i got on it hard or at high rpm's, it would foul out those cylinders that had the bad nozzles......you will have to get new injectors

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StryfeS13
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Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

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triple r wrote:if they are stock injectors..........yes. that nozzle keeps it from fouling the plug out under load. how did the car even run like that? i had this same problem. it would idle and when i got on it hard or at high rpm's, it would foul out those cylinders that had the bad nozzles......you will have to get new injectors
Yes, they are the stock injectors. So this would explain why I could smell fuel in cylinders 2,3,4.I hope they aren't too expensive from an auto parts store or nissan dealer.

Also, when i looked at my cams, the orange marked one (exhaust if i recall) was on the intake manifold side, and the green marked one (intake) is on the exhaust manifold side. Is that normal or what the hell is going on?

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StryfeS13
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Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

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Also, do you think that this clicking sound may have been my injectors? Or is it my valves? I've always thought it was something with the valves.

Fast forward to 1:00.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2h6y5BLmnW4

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Murdered_T
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Car: 1979 Datsun 280ZX byach

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don't go to Nissan, Mitsubishi makes them anyways...

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StryfeS13
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Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

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Ordered my injectors today, 80 bucks for all four.

Uhm, is there any easy simple way to remove valves to replace valve stem seals? There's a tutorial on here saying to use a 15/16 socket, a washer, and a stick magnet, but it's not working for me.

liquid_cool
Posts: 1700
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 3:02 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

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where to start...first...the injectors....the caps are just that ..caps..they are there for protection from debris that may or maynot enter your intake...the cap its self..does not hinder the operation of the injector...this does not mean that the injector is good thou..you will have to test that..easy way.....remove the dizzy..keep it pluged in thou...turn power on to the car..let the fuel prime...if no leaks at this point..continue on...make shure you donot have the coil wire hooked up...only the harness plug to the dizzy...point your fuel rail facing upwards...with ignition on the on position...slowly turn the dizzy at its gear...the injectors should fire..spraying a fine mist of fuel..look at the pattern it makes...if they all look simmilar..then your in like flynn...

now for those pesky valve seals........the magnet is a must....you will need a valve tool (spring compressor) or a large (C) clamp works too..the head must be off of the block and in an area where you can work cleanly...before trying to remove the valves thou....take each bucket off the valve 1 at a time...numbering them in the order you took them off of...ie...front intake would be (I1),(I2) ect..this way you dont ruin your valve lash...its a pain to reshim and get it back to oem if you havent done it before......now...if your using the valve spring tool...follow those directions...if your using the C clamp method...make shure you have a stable piece of metal that looks like a square with one end cut off...allso make shure..it will fir into the bucket area when compressing the spring..and that it doesnot scrape against the cam guide area's..verry important....one you have made your tool to fit...you place one part of the C-clamp on the valve to be removed..(Block side) and one part over your square looking tool looks like this...kinda ( [ )..compress the spring..and ise that magnet tool to reach down and attract the keepers (locks)...un-compress and repeate for next valve...most important part of this..is not to scratch the head surface ...make shure your only applying force to the valve its self and not the head or compretion chamber area's....after the valve is out...you will have to pry like a mofo to get the old seal's off...the new ones will push rite on thou with your thumb and a bit or prelube...good luck man..hope this helps.

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StryfeS13
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

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I tried this to remove my seals but it does not work.

zerothread?id=257238

liquid_cool
Posts: 1700
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 3:02 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

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StryfeS13 wrote:I tried this to remove my seals but it does not work.

zerothread?id=257238
follow the above directions...its easyer than this link.....allso....please dont put the head on the ground like this guy...use a bench or a portable table.


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