KA24DE valve removal / valve seal replacement 56komgwftno

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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Didderson
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Car: 1990 240sx fastback; '88 Hardbody pickup; '74 Datsun Z
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So you've got your KA all apart and you can't find a tool to compress the valves and replace the valve seals? I've devised a pretty damn good way to do it with common tools we all have!

Parts/tools needed:-valve seals (mine were from carquest). Sorry I don't have pics of the seals themselves. They're about 9mm in diameter and 10mm high. just a cylinder w/ rubber inside and a spring wound around the top to hold the rubber onto the valve.-15/16 socket with a 1/2 inch drive.-Magnet on a stick (harbor freight one myself)-LARGE nut or washer not really required, but it helped me.-1/2 inch extension 6" long.-Mechanics gloves (the head is sharp and you're going to be using a lot of force, just to be safe no one busts a knuckle.-Two wrenches around 17mm size (one 17 and an equivalent american size or near equal). You'll know it's the right size if you slide the circular ends onto the 1/2 extension and they form a perpendicular angle with the extension.-Ability to perform several push-ups (just be forewarned if you don't work out already, you're gonna be nice and sore after today)If this is what you desire:Then keep on reading!

STEP 1: Valve compression and removal.

First, assemble your socket, large nut (or washer) and magnet on a stick as shown in the picture below. Notice the magnet is in position to 'pull' the collets (those little semi circles) out of the valve seat once the spring is compressed.Next, use the technique shown below with both palms on the washer/large nut. Yea ur palms might hurt. suck it up this is free! This is where having the head on the floor and doing a push up compression method is suggested.

That's basically it for removal. Pretty simple eh? just take some pliers and pull the old valve seals out now. It's kinda like pulling teeth. If the collets don't seem to want to come out, try repositioning the magnet. It'll take some tweaking, but soon you'll be a pro.

STEP 2: reinstallation!

Assemble your tool:First, install the socket the other way this time. so the drive end is facing downward. This will help keep the collets in place while you're compressing. Also, use the 1/2" extension to rest on the inside of the socket, but don't put it all the way through. If you do, the collets really don't go in very well. I guess I'm trying to say do it like the picture shows:

Compressing technique:Put the circular end of your wrenches through the 1/2" extension, these will create 2 handles for you to push down on and compress the spring. Kind of a jack hammer setup. When you're compressing the spring, what worked best for me was a jackhammer type compressing. Just push down in a rhythmic motion until you hear the collet or collets fall into place.This is a pic of my right hand in position ready to compress the spring using our new tool:

a close up of the tool contacting the valve hat:

The collets should be set up like this before you compress it with the tool described above: Note, the valve on the right has had the collets correctly installed.

Most likely you will end up with only one collet installed after compressing. No biggie, it's actually easy to fix. just position the collet so that it can slide into position if you were to compress the spring agian like the pic below, then use the same pushing motion to compress it. It may take a few tries, trust me some valves will take time, it's best if you get stuck on one, move on to another valve and come back to that one a little later. This is no easy task, but it won't take all afternoon i promise!

That's pretty much it. You'll get better at the technique it requires to compress the valves and seat the collets on right, and maybe you'll be able to bench a few more pounds too .Hopefully you'll pay attention to detail before you reassemble you're motor, and it'll shine like this:

Glad i could finally give back to nico, my car's been going thru major changes aesthetically recently, and I couldn't find much info on this topic. Hope this helps ppl rebuilding the KA edit: wrench size was in a pic so i just added it.


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White Comet
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wow, great pic...really got ur good side. who took that btw? nice write up but the motor's missing a major component since ur topend rebuild.......a turbo

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Didderson
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Car: 1990 240sx fastback; '88 Hardbody pickup; '74 Datsun Z
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Uuh I did lol. Naaah man, I just talked to a kid from manheim today who's sellin a non turbo header. NA ftw!

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White Comet
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turbo omgbbqwtf and man u got no props for this write up, that is t3h suck

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480sx
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Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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Reliability and engine longevity FTW! Well not really but if your into that sort of thing.. Nice writeup man

pr240sx
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I rather dont recommend doing this on a bare floor. At least use something to protect the head to block surface.Also, I use an old rag on the cylinder I am working to prevent the valves from opening.

Be very carefull with those half collet installed valves. These guys like to fly!!

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White Comet
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pr240sx wrote:
Be very carefull with those half collet installed valves. These guys like to fly!!
when he did it he pushed down and the rod sticking in there is a magnet that would catch them, it worked really well

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White Comet
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480sx wrote:Reliability and engine longevity FTW!
surprisingly my ka and my sr blacktop are just as reliable. prolly helps that the sr wiring was professionally installed. can't say i dont sometimes miss the ka though

LayNLow240
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Car: 92 240 coupe

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this way would be *** if the head was on the car.props to you for your makeshift tools, i like that kinda ****.did the same thing recently to press out/in a throw out bearing with a ball joint puller and a few sockets.

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Didderson
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Yeah, in hindsight I should have had a rag under it, but I don't think it damaged anything, she doesn't leak yet lol. Well plus, it was a nice smooth garage floor.Yeah and I only did this because I thought it was the problem, but the main problem was probably the distributor being advanced by a tooth.

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H8tred
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Yeah, I was going to say something about the bare floor too. Best to lay down a few sheets of cardboard. Props on the po-man method though. A welder, and some time, and you could make a pretty good compressor.

ka-t4u
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nice write up man!!! this saved me form a big frustration since i couldn't figure out how to get those b*****s out o replace my valve seals!!! im thinking, imma use the vlave spring compresser and since it wont reach in the valve spring im gonna put a socket in the middle and see if it works out! if it doesn't i'll stick with your technique!!

has anyone else done this?? is there any special tool? any easier procedures??

thank you very much!!!!

-Oliver

louisb323
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Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:34 am
Car: '92 240 Fastback

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First off, thanks for the write-up. We (my son and I) used it successfully with some modification. Instead of two closed end wrenches I took a rectangular piece of wood and made a handle for the socket to make it easier to push down on. We also did it with the engine in the car. Tip: Taking off the hood proved a big help getting to cyl. 3 & 4. Apart from that we just followed your guide and after cyl. 1 had a pretty good rhythm down.

Here's a photo of our old seals and the new ones (Toga) with a quarter for size comparison. Quite a difference!


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