Oh and how exactly do I go about putting a catch can between it? I am sort of confused as to the setup you explained. If you could show me a picture that would be awesome. That sounds like a good idea, something I might need to try.Cpt_Impossible wrote:A light layer of oil is normal, like a film... but that looks like way more than normal. Was the engine stored somewhere really humid or outside or something? If you put a catch can between the valve covers and where it goes back into the intake it will keep that from happening again, and it will let you gauge just how much oil you are losing and at what rate. Some people put some steel wool or chain in the catch can to help it trap more moisture.
Well it's definitely a good excuse to rebuild your motor with forged internals.AxiOn419 wrote:If it is the ringlands, is it worth fixing? If its just a compressor seal, how hard is that to change/find a seal?
Yes, I can manually crank it and its fairly easy to do actually, has a very fluid feel to it. All pulleys and such turn great.Darius wrote:Just swap it in and fire it up. Half of our motors sat in a junkyard for years before being shipped over to the US. If it blows and/or the rings are shot, THEN rebuild it.
Can you manually crank the engine over with a socket wrench? i.e. its not siezed up.
the ringlands are a small area of your piston between your rings.. when they break it usaully puts a small hole in the side of your piston.. that causes oil to be sucked up into the cylinder then pushed out in to the intake and exhaust.. i know on my buddys rb20 it wouldnt smoke or pump the oil through it till the motor was warm...AxiOn419 wrote:Hmmm, that might be a little bit expensive and a daunting task for me. If thats what it needed I would probably be better off selling the motor and getting an RB25.
This may be a stupid question but what exaclty is a ringland and why does oil in the intake point to that being the problem? If someone could give me an overview of what happens inside the engine when you have bad ringlands that would be great, this whole engine swap process is a big learning experience for me.
I used this motor for 2 years straight without any major mechanical issues. Wouldnt the engine have seized up by this point? Up until the wreck the engine ran pretty strong and made no funny noisesfast_s13 wrote:the ringlands are a small area of your piston between your rings.. when they break it usaully puts a small hole in the side of your piston.. that causes oil to be sucked up into the cylinder then pushed out in to the intake and exhaust.. i know on my buddys rb20 it wouldnt smoke or pump the oil through it till the motor was warm...
I think I see the big picture now. So wouldnt my exhaust have been pooring out blueish smoke constantly in this case? It never did. There was a little bit of black smoke here and there but I wouldnt say anything way abnormal. I believe the car was running rich. The turbo compressor seals seem to make more sense, is there a way to check if I pull the turbo off?fast_s13 wrote:the ringlands are a small area of your piston between your rings.. when they break it usaully puts a small hole in the side of your piston.. that causes oil to be sucked up into the cylinder then pushed out in to the intake and exhaust.. i know on my buddys rb20 it wouldnt smoke or pump the oil through it till the motor was warm...
I am not trying to question your question but just for my own clarification.. the line running from the valve cover (the right side of the valve cover) does not run to the intake manifold but rather the oil catch can, right? Or does the catch can somehow connect to the intake manifold as well?Darius wrote:hey cpt_impossible. does that line running from your valve cover to the intake manifold have some kind of ball check valve or pcv valve on it?