Starting the turbo kit install, and dreading the thought of pulling the motor to swap out the oil pan (for the oil feed bung)... I JUST had the transmission, driveshaft and rear diff out.
I don't have time for this before the Nationals, but if it's gotta be done, so be it....
Anyone ever tackle this with the pan ON the car?
Is there ANY way around this???
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ILikeMy240sx
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koukiKA240
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technically it could be done. When drilling the shavings should technically be pulled to the outside. If you feel you have to do it without pulling the pan then try it. Keep a magnet stuck to the bottom of the pan near where you are drilling. That would catch whatever falls in. Then just run that down to the hole and remove the bits. ive never done this before but it could work i suppose.~Sam
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DammitBobby
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Re: Is there ANY way around this??? (AZhitman)
Remove the nut that is holding the motor mount from the bottom on both sides. Remove the 2 bolts on each side that is holding the front sway bar to the frame. This will allow you to remove the oil pan towards the front of the car. Place the jack under the transmission and jack it up enough were you can remove the oil pan (It does not take much).After taking off all the bolts holding the pan use a screw driver to pry the pan from the block. Once the pan is broken loose and kind of hanging there, you will want to unbolt the pickup tube(3 bolts) to make it easier to remove the oil pan. After removing the pan weld the return bung on with the center of the bung on the drivers side of the pan exactly 6" back from the front body of the pan (not the flange) and 7/8" from the underside of the top rail. You will find it to be pretty close to the spot weld that holds the windage tray in place. This will place the return between the front of the motor mount and the back of the AC compressor.
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DammitBobby
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Re: (AZhitman)
Also it makes it a lot easier if you use 1/4 socket and extension(10mm). The back to bolts on the pan next to the transmission is tight!
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:: orion ::
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Also...a point to note:
Who says the pan has to be drilled?????
In the past, I've used a big punch to open a 1/2" hole, then welded a fitting from the outside. Easy.
No shavings, same result.
It takes some creativity...the punch will start the hole, then you have to open it up (typical punches are too long where it hit's the 1/2" O.D. point)...
But that may save you some time and energy, if you have a welder handy.
- Brian
Who says the pan has to be drilled?????
In the past, I've used a big punch to open a 1/2" hole, then welded a fitting from the outside. Easy.
No shavings, same result.
It takes some creativity...the punch will start the hole, then you have to open it up (typical punches are too long where it hit's the 1/2" O.D. point)...
But that may save you some time and energy, if you have a welder handy.
- Brian
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Structure240sx
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:: orion ::
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Another thing to note...
You have to be careful where you place the bung...if it's too far back, the punch will hit the engine girdle, and you wont be able to open it up very large.
And even if you can open it up to 1/2" or so, the metal that's pushed in (makes a"lip"" may be too close to the girdle to allow proper drainage...
So attempt this method ONLY if you're willing to get very creative if the need be.
- Brian
You have to be careful where you place the bung...if it's too far back, the punch will hit the engine girdle, and you wont be able to open it up very large.
And even if you can open it up to 1/2" or so, the metal that's pushed in (makes a"lip"" may be too close to the girdle to allow proper drainage...
So attempt this method ONLY if you're willing to get very creative if the need be.
- Brian
Re: Is there ANY way around this??? (AZhitman)
Good Luck on this, I had tried to lift the engine without lowering the front crossmember (1.5 - 2 inches) and couldn't get the pan to come out. (S14-Greddy kit) Finally broke down and disconnected everything and it worked fine. I should've done this from the start to save time.
doesnt take luck, takes mechanical knowledge. sorry.
Just be prepared for some cursing when you are trying to get the oil pick up back on, and you have 2 bolts in and then you drop the 3rd in the pan, and the RTV is drying, and you have to take it all off and retrieve the bolt... or just wait until the pick up is back on to spread the RTV, that would be a very good idea.
Just be prepared for some cursing when you are trying to get the oil pick up back on, and you have 2 bolts in and then you drop the 3rd in the pan, and the RTV is drying, and you have to take it all off and retrieve the bolt... or just wait until the pick up is back on to spread the RTV, that would be a very good idea.
greg,
if you need help swapping pans, lemme know. i've done it a few times now and am familiar with dropping the subframe to get at it. it's a *****, but it's the only way i've managed to get it out. also, if you need a bung welded onto that spare oil pan i have, i can have that thrown on for you too. imo, best bet is to rtv it AND use a solid gasket, like a felpro, if you're gonna swap pans while the engine is still in the car unless you've got some good, steady hands to put the oil pan back in without smearing the rtv all over.
if you need help swapping pans, lemme know. i've done it a few times now and am familiar with dropping the subframe to get at it. it's a *****, but it's the only way i've managed to get it out. also, if you need a bung welded onto that spare oil pan i have, i can have that thrown on for you too. imo, best bet is to rtv it AND use a solid gasket, like a felpro, if you're gonna swap pans while the engine is still in the car unless you've got some good, steady hands to put the oil pan back in without smearing the rtv all over.
Re: (AZhitman)
What oil line kit did you get?
For the record, I'd stray away from the kit I chose(cheapturbolines.com) because their tapered-style barb extends pretty far towards the motor mount/compressor, and doesn't allow for a straight shot up towards the turbo. It'll crunch the line like that.
I ended up having to route the oil line slightly horizontal past the compressor/mount so that it doesn't get kinked. ..and it ended up in the ideal place for the oil return line on my turbo(bottom-mount).
For the record, I'd stray away from the kit I chose(cheapturbolines.com) because their tapered-style barb extends pretty far towards the motor mount/compressor, and doesn't allow for a straight shot up towards the turbo. It'll crunch the line like that.
I ended up having to route the oil line slightly horizontal past the compressor/mount so that it doesn't get kinked. ..and it ended up in the ideal place for the oil return line on my turbo(bottom-mount).
Re: (AZhitman)
Honestly,
Do yourself a favor and just pull the motor. It only takes a few hours, and believe me, you'll be spending atleast that much pulling/replacing the pan with the motor still in.
I pulled my pan with the motor still in, and it is not an experience I never want to repeat... ever! If you do go that route, make sure to reserve a good vocabulary of complete and utter vulgarity. Getting that pan out is hard enough, getting it back in while trying not to smear the RTV all over the crank girdle and fighting with the pickup is a nightmare.
Getting at all the flange bolts from underneigth isn't exactly candyland either. Oh yes, and replace those bolts with fresh ones if you can.
Do yourself a favor and just pull the motor. It only takes a few hours, and believe me, you'll be spending atleast that much pulling/replacing the pan with the motor still in.
I pulled my pan with the motor still in, and it is not an experience I never want to repeat... ever! If you do go that route, make sure to reserve a good vocabulary of complete and utter vulgarity. Getting that pan out is hard enough, getting it back in while trying not to smear the RTV all over the crank girdle and fighting with the pickup is a nightmare.
Getting at all the flange bolts from underneigth isn't exactly candyland either. Oh yes, and replace those bolts with fresh ones if you can.
Re: (Titan)
Come on, at least read the thread before you post in it.Titan wrote:Honestly,
Do yourself a favor and just pull the motor. It only takes a few hours, and believe me, you'll be spending atleast that much pulling/replacing the pan with the motor still in.
I pulled my pan with the motor still in, and it is not an experience I never want to repeat... ever! If you do go that route, make sure to reserve a good vocabulary of complete and utter vulgarity. Getting that pan out is hard enough, getting it back in while trying not to smear the RTV all over the crank girdle and fighting with the pickup is a nightmare.
Getting at all the flange bolts from underneigth isn't exactly candyland either. Oh yes, and replace those bolts with fresh ones if you can.
Re: (toki)
???
What's wrong with what he said? Sure, your post did include a lot of what he said, but included some other stuff too. And your post didn't go over-looked either.
And I mean no offense when I say this: His post was better-worded and more legible. A simple double check of grammar and usage can do wonders to clean up a raw/wordy message. I apologize in advance if this offends you.
What's wrong with what he said? Sure, your post did include a lot of what he said, but included some other stuff too. And your post didn't go over-looked either.
And I mean no offense when I say this: His post was better-worded and more legible. A simple double check of grammar and usage can do wonders to clean up a raw/wordy message. I apologize in advance if this offends you.
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WDRacing
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Greg, there is a way of returning oil to the motor without even touching your drip pan. I may be selling these as kits here real soon, but I'll be more then happy to hook you up with the DIY info for now.
Alot of guys have run into oil not draining well because the oil pan whole being to far below the oil level, which will happen for the first 10 minutes the car is running...everytime. Some people will go as far as running low 2 quarts low.
Email me on the side if you want to explore other options...
[email protected]
Alot of guys have run into oil not draining well because the oil pan whole being to far below the oil level, which will happen for the first 10 minutes the car is running...everytime. Some people will go as far as running low 2 quarts low.
Email me on the side if you want to explore other options...
[email protected]
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Bronze MFP
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WD, if you start selling those kits, please let me know. I too fear dropping, drilling and re-installing my oil pan. plus if there is a better way to return the oil without it backing up due to the level being too high in the pan, i'm all for it.
AZ-, my buddy drilled and jb welded a return bung without touching the engine mounts or any of the suspension. After he drilled the oil pan, he ran a few quarts of oil strait through the engine... then jbwelded the return bung in, filled the engine with oil, ran it for a few seconds. then drained that oil. so far he has had no problems with it, and its been over 5,000 miles of abuse.
AZ-, my buddy drilled and jb welded a return bung without touching the engine mounts or any of the suspension. After he drilled the oil pan, he ran a few quarts of oil strait through the engine... then jbwelded the return bung in, filled the engine with oil, ran it for a few seconds. then drained that oil. so far he has had no problems with it, and its been over 5,000 miles of abuse.
ok so i got my tapped oil pan on the weekend before the last one and if you have never pulled an oil pan before, ur in for some serious fun. i first drained the oil out of the old one and then disconnected the transmission from the block. we then lifted the engine using a jack until the mechanical fan was slightly out of the shroud. (remember to undo the strut bar if one is present). Then the pan got unscrewed and was creatively removed by my mechanic. Replacing the pan was nothing short of messy. Also remember to clean out the grooves in the tapped pan so that the RTV gets a good seal. When my mechanic replaced the oil pan, i think the RTV didnt miss a spot down there. The oil pickup took about 20 min and the pan took about 30 to get in and bolted up.
Roseabrooke's measurements were correct for the placement of the bung. Just watch out for the hole where one of the bolts go to bolt up the pan. The bung may get in the way of one of the bolts so u may need to use some "force" to get it to work. I think thats about it. I flushed my coolant while i was doing that also since u will have access to it.
Roseabrooke's measurements were correct for the placement of the bung. Just watch out for the hole where one of the bolts go to bolt up the pan. The bung may get in the way of one of the bolts so u may need to use some "force" to get it to work. I think thats about it. I flushed my coolant while i was doing that also since u will have access to it.
Re: (Jookmasta)
wow you actually went that far? i got by w/o having to disconnect the transmission, but it could be why my rear main seal is leaking now...Jookmasta wrote:then disconnected the transmission from the block.
Re: (d-ta)
I've also heard if you are drilling the oil pan while it is still on the car to use lithium grease on the drill bit to catch the shavings so they dont go back into the oil pan as much.
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Nismo_Freak
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Re: (Nismo_Freak)
is there any way to remove the pan, with out removing the transmission, crossmember, or oil pick up?? (89) 240sx??
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DammitBobby
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Re: (Nismo_Freak)
Dam I like to see that!!Nismo_Freak wrote:I can replace my oil pan in oh... 10 minutes?
Suckas!
Re: (AN89HATCH)
You don't have to remove the transmission, or crossmember.AN89HATCH wrote:is there any way to remove the pan, with out removing the transmission, crossmember, or oil pick up?? (89) 240sx??
The oil pickup line does have to be removed. It is bolted to the pan.
That still doesn't make up for the fact that we have .4 liters over you...Nismo_Freak wrote:I can replace my oil pan in oh... 10 minutes?
Suckas!
nicOWND!!1