when replacing the alternator? Seems I helped my son R&R his on 1991 w/o removing the compressor, but the last time I did mine I think I rm'd the AC compressor.

Also, has anyone had experience with the new alternators offered by rock auto for $105?

Thanks, Drake.

It's not necessary to remove it. Back when my dad was alive, he could get in behind it to hold the retaining nut in place, which is the hard part. The last couple of times I did this without an assistant, I loosened the bolts on the compressor and was able to move it out of the way just enough to get in there. No need to discharge the system or unbolt the lines, just unbolt it and it'll move enough.

I don't see one on RA for $105, but if I were doing this job, I'd buy the Hitachi ALR0009 for $142.89 + whatever you pay to ship your core back. I bought the Hitachi from them for my truck, and it was drop shipped directly from Hitachi's facility in KY. I think this is the equivalent to a Nissan brand remanufactured unit at a much better price. Looks they're about $350 from a discount online dealer.

About 7 years ago, I bought what I thought was a Hitachi for my Q from someone who had one for sale here on the forum. I don't think it was intentionally misrepresented... I think whoever sold it to him screwed him... anyhow, it lasted for about a week. The autopsy showed that it was a total pile of garbage... they had left some wiring inside in a place where a rotating part could rub through it. Full of Chinese components that were much cheaper looking that the Hitachi. I actually ended up rebuilding my Hitachi by replacing the diode pack. Long story, but I had them on hand from doing this on my first Q, and funds were tight, so I had more time than cash.

Save yourself the headache of doing this job twice. If your battery has some age on it, replace it at the same time...

Oh, here's a coupon code to paste in to the "How Did You Hear About Us?" box at RA. 5% is better than nothing... 9157774085518432

Here's my write-up on a replacement last time.
replaced-my-alternator-today-t544590.html

And the write-up on my frustrations on it failing in a few days. Seriously... get the Hitachi
still-have-alternator-problems-suddenly ... 45161.html

OK, I installed Hitachi remanufactured alternator over weekend, voltage when engine running is a nice bright 14 volts. I had a little difficulty with the job b/c I had previously zip tied the starter harness to the cable carrier that fastens to the back of the unit, after cutting ties, things went much better.

So good idea about the Hitachi. During the alternator R&R, I also removed and replaced transmission inline filter, and rubber hoses, then had trouble with leaks at clamps. There seems to be pressure, I can see the hoses shift slightly right after starting the car and pressure comes up. This morning before driving Q to work, I added worm gear clamps to the factory wire/bolt/nut arrangement to stamp out pesky drips. Can anyone say what kind of pressure builds in transmission fluid cooling circuit?

I'm glad the alternator swap went well! I haven't dealt with the filter setup... I'm guessing that's something that was done later as part of a transmission swap campaign on the 92?

I wouldn't think the pressure is that high... there's no suction to pull fluid in. The pump pushes fluid through the system, and the return just spills back in to the system. I know this, because I once devised a "two bucket" transmission flush plan with clean fluid in one to be sucked out by the return line, and that didn't work. I'd think that the hoses are tired and should be replaced if your clamp fix doesn't work.

Q451990 wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:18 pm

...
I wouldn't think the pressure is that high... there's no suction to pull fluid in. The pump pushes fluid through the system, and the return just spills back in to the system. I know this, because I once devised a "two bucket" transmission flush plan with clean fluid in one to be sucked out by the return line, and that didn't work...

Allow me to chuckle at this in a very relatable way. This is the kind of stuff you can only discover with experience. It seems so counterintuitive though... And to confuse ourselves further; when you're under your car reinstalling those hoses onto a radiator etc, both lines gush a strong and steady stream of ATF onto your face.

I had to replace the alternator on my '96 back in spring. The hardest part was replacing the retaining nut on the second bolt. When I removed the alternator, the previous owner or mechanic or whoever had actually left the nut off and apparently the alternator was fine for a long time with one bolt not actually attached to anything. The way I replaced the nut was to get the longest screwdriver I had and use masking tape to tape the nut to the end of the screwdriver. You'll need a friend for this. One guy gets under the car with the screwdriver, while the other comes in the top with the bolt and your favorite bolt turning tool. Use plenty of inspection lights and and blindly poke the screwdriver up and around the compressor and all the other stuff in the way and hope that you got it somewhere near the bolt hole. After about 6 beers, 2 packs of smokes, and enough cursing to make the whole navy blush, just when your about to give up, you'll somehow get the nut into position and your buddy will turn the bolt making it grab the nut and your alternator will finally be installed. I speak from experience.

on 1992 I used quick setting epoxy to attach nut to alternator, after masking tape did not work out so well, epoxy did OK.

Strange, but true, add alternator warning to park brake/low brake fluid warning light. I cannot picture why alternator warning does not rate it's own bulb, but the schematic in the FSM shows it, brake light burns brightly, and reman'd alternator installed in September no longer charges. RAP is making good on warranty, replacement arrives tomorrow.

Also FSM offers method for R&R'ing alternator, I'll check out over weekend, offer a review.

I hate to hear that about your Hitachi reman - I guess everything has a failure rate, but that's frustrating.

Thanks, it's no too big deal, RAP making good on 1year warranty. I charged battery every night, did daily 30 mile round trip commute on battery alone, no problem.

FSM procedure calls to drain and offset radiator, remove AC pipe bracket, remove upper alternator bracket and lower alternator mount bolt, then slide alternator toward radiator, remove cables, and remove alternator. I could not quite do same with inline ATF filter, I removed air cleaner, EVAP cannister, radiator, inline filter, then followed the FSM procedure, about a 3 hour job, which was the least aggravation I've had on the same job. I 100% love these cordless drivers, really nice invention, so helpful.

New alternator extinguishes brake light, which I never guessed doubles as alternator light.