Is it my Clutch or transmission??

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WI_S14_Goldie
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Every time when i shift into Reverse it Grinds! (from dead stop) Another problem i have is shifting into 3rd gear. If i'm driving normally it goes in smooth, but when i floor it from 2nd to 3rd it grinds a little or it doesn't go in at all. (and NO it's not my driving, the clutch is still engaged) It also happens when i'm on the Innerstate and need a little more power, it hesitates to go into 3rd or else it doesn't go in at all and just keeps grinding...Is it my transmission, clutch, or a combination? I'm pretty sure it's my Transmision, but i'm sure some mechnics can help me out... Appreciate any Help..Thanks....


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popogto
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Try bleeding out the clutch lines and if that doesn't work, adjust your clutch pedal to engage further up. thats about all i can think of.

180fan
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but it's fine going into 1st and 2nd?

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ACESXX
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--> I suggest draining your transmission and re-oil it with some redline mt-90 or some gear oil. that should smooth the transmission....

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WI_S14_Goldie
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180fan wrote:but it's fine going into 1st and 2nd?
yea...the only problem it has is, going into 3rd (during hard driving or at highspeed downshifts approx. 60mph)

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WI_S14_Goldie
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[QUOTE=popogto]Try bleeding out the clutch lines and if that doesn't work, adjust your clutch pedal to engage further up. thats about all i can think of.[/QUOTE Wouldn't it be better if my clutch engaged down lower, like an aftermarket clutch? How can i adjust my clutch pedal??

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WI_S14_Goldie
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ACESXX wrote:--> I suggest draining your transmission and re-oil it with some redline mt-90 or some gear oil. that should smooth the transmission....
Would it matter if i use synthetic oil? Which oil would u recommend??

180fan
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If 1st and 2nd go fine but 3rd to 4th have issues, I'd suspect the transmission of having issues. You can try to get around that issue by using a better oil to lube up your transmission.

The synthetics are generally smoother and not too expensive. Acesxx did recommend Redline MT-90 which is a good gear oil. You can also try using their shockproof gear oil or if budget permits, try using Motul's Motylgear gear oil. In the end though, make sure you're using 2.4L GL-4 and NOT GL-5.

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WI_S14_Goldie
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180fan wrote:If 1st and 2nd go fine but 3rd to 4th have issues, I'd suspect the transmission of having issues. You can try to get around that issue by using a better oil to lube up your transmission.

The synthetics are generally smoother and not too expensive. Acesxx did recommend Redline MT-90 which is a good gear oil. You can also try using their shockproof gear oil or if budget permits, try using Motul's Motylgear gear oil. In the end though, make sure you're using 2.4L GL-4 and NOT GL-5.
Ok, now is there a special nut some where under the car to drain gear oil? How and Where would i put new gear oil in? Is it just as easy as changing motor oil??

pr240sx
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pressure plate not fully releasing.That your problemBut can be caused by faulty hydraulics (slave, master)faulty throwout bearing or fork (very unlikely)If you use a heavier oil (140 or so) you can grind as the oil is "slowing" the gears inside and the syncros cant compensate.I would check my hydraulics AND change my transmission oil (80w90)Also, check if the oil is safe for BRASS synchros (GL4) DONT use GL5 oil as is said could damage the syncros.

pr240sx
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Also try draining the oil by removing the speed sensor in case that you cant remove the 1/2 bolt under the transmission.To fill it, I prefer to use the shifter (I have an aftermarket shifter) instead of the nut at the side.

I use 3 quarts (I am right?)

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WI_S14_Goldie
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pr240sx wrote:pressure plate not fully releasing.That your problemBut can be caused by faulty hydraulics (slave, master)faulty throwout bearing or fork (very unlikely)If you use a heavier oil (140 or so) you can grind as the oil is "slowing" the gears inside and the syncros cant compensate.I would check my hydraulics AND change my transmission oil (80w90)Also, check if the oil is safe for BRASS synchros (GL4) DONT use GL5 oil as is said could damage the syncros.
i've always been confused, is gear oil the same thing as "motor" oil? or is it different?

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WI_S14_Goldie
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I noe this is totally out of subject, but i'm currently using 10w-30 castrol (non-synthtic oil) if i switch to synthitic is there going to be an issue of oil leaks? (KA24DE) Are any of u guys running with synthetic oil in ur KA's?? And if u have any more tips about helping me out with my transmission, that would be helpful..

180fan
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WI_S14_Goldie it's a 1/2 ratchet's head thing you pop in there. Can't miss it, it's about half way down the transmission and has a 1/2 socket recessed into it. You pour new gear oil through either the shifter or pump it up through the other 1/2 (looks like the inverse of the drain, with the 1/2" socket coming out of the plug). That's located on the side of the transmission.

Gear oil is different from motor oil. You can tell it's gear oil because it stinks.

I've used Mobil 1 10w-30 in my old SOHC from 140k-170k without any problems. Oil leaks come from worn seals, not the oil. Synthetics have a better detergent package than the run of the mill mineral oils and can clean up the gunk that's keeping worn seals from leaking. Replace the worn seals.

Also I have my doubts about the hydraulic system being the culprit in this case as you're able to get into 1st and 2nd no problem correct? The pressure plate has no idea of what gear you're in and does not select gears to grind selectively, that's done inside the transmission, not at the clutch/pressure plate.

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WI_S14_Goldie
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Thanks man, i appreciate the help. Now when ur talking about seals is that the "valve cover seal?"

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benemorius
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It's any seal which happens to be leaking. If it leaks, replace it.

And are you certain that third is the only gear which has problems? Sitting at a dead stop with the engine running, does it slide right in to first ok?

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WI_S14_Goldie
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benemorius wrote:It's any seal which happens to be leaking. If it leaks, replace it.

And are you certain that third is the only gear which has problems? Sitting at a dead stop with the engine running, does it slide right in to first ok?
Yea it slides into first without problems, but once in a while it won't go in all the way unless i depress the clutch slightly and give it some gas. (note we're talking about 1st gear)

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benemorius
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WI_S14_Goldie wrote: Yea it slides into first without problems,
That makes it a transmission problem - not hydraulic/clutch.
WI_S14_Goldie wrote:but once in a while it won't go in all the way unless i depress the clutch slightly and give it some gas. (note we're talking about 1st gear)
That's pretty normal.

You can start with changing the gear oil and crossing your fingers. That may not do it, though. Believe it or not, this actually could be due to your driving habits. It's been my experience that third gear synchros are frequently the first to go on a car driven by an experienced driver. I speculate that this is because the second-to-third shift is the most balanced shift, but it could all just be coincidence.

Jiggyfry
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You could have worn synchros. When was the last time you changed the trannny fluid? When changing the transmission fluid you can take a look at the magnetic drain bolt and see if there is a builup of metal on the plug. If so i'd say the synchros are on the way out.

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xyrho
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i heard that if you're car's transmission oil has never really been flushed, and changed; that you shouldnt flush it out and put new gear oil in it, because something about the old transmission fluid forming a deposit around the from transmission seal, and if the fluid is totally replaced, then the new fluid would desolve the deposit and the seal may start to leak..

is that a serious risk involved when replacing the oil?? (read it in a book).just wondering what experiences you guys have had with it

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WI_S14_Goldie
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xyrho wrote:i heard that if you're car's transmission oil has never really been flushed, and changed; that you shouldnt flush it out and put new gear oil in it, because something about the old transmission fluid forming a deposit around the from transmission seal, and if the fluid is totally replaced, then the new fluid would desolve the deposit and the seal may start to leak..

is that a serious risk involved when replacing the oil?? (read it in a book).just wondering what experiences you guys have had with it
So you're saying i shouldn't change my transmission oil... I don't know about that?? But I get what you're saying and ill keep that in mind. thanx.

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xyrho
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well i mean, im not totally sure, i mean i just read that outa a book, yet i mean if other people have done it no problem, then i mean do it.. i was just wondering also, cause im actually having the exact same problem as you with my s13. so im basically in the same situation as you.

so i was just wondering if anyone thinks that it is a serious risk or not.

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benemorius
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It's not really about whether it's a risk or not. You wouldn't avoid changing your engine oil for fear of a leak, and neither do you avoid changing your gear oil for such a reason. You change the oil. If a leak develops, you fix it.

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Flip240sx
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it's most likely ur transmission i had the same problem i just got a new clutch and a used transmission from a 97 240 and got my problem fixed u should do the same..

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WI_S14_Goldie
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Flip240sx wrote:it's most likely ur transmission i had the same problem i just got a new clutch and a used transmission from a 97 240 and got my problem fixed u should do the same..
Yea.. ill see if changing my oil helps first, but how much do KA trannys go for??

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xyrho
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i found one for $300 used when i was looking for one. i still havent tried changing the oil yet, im planning to do that next weekend, but im going to see if that works first also.

240Extremist
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I always use synthetic oil. It usually lasts longer and the car seems to run so much smoother with the synthetic. It's definitely going to be more expensive but in the long run it helps so much more and doesn't cause the engine to wear and tear as much.

meancasper
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Seems like some great minds here. Just got into the group recently. I had a 90, 240 that did the same thing. When I was playing with someone only other wise it shifted fine and it was also second to third. I replaced the slave and the master, clutch. This only leaves the transmission. I drove it like that another 30,000 miles before someone wrecked into me. Now I've got a 95 and having throw out bearing noise that I can't get rid of. Changed out the clutch and put a centerforce in changed the flywheel. The grinding sound coming from the throw out bearing is still there. The old clutch had some really bad wear on the pressure plate so I don't want to experiment on this too much any one have a good idea on the best way to adjust the clutch that doesn't involve starting, to use trial and error? I wrote steve from the clutch install to see if he had a suggestion as well.

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xyrho
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just to make sure im going to buy enough, its 3 quarts to fill up the transmission after i drain it right??

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benemorius
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3 quarts is sufficient. I believe it takes around 2.6 quarts. Be sure you get GL4 oil and NOT GL5. When the a$$ at autozone tries to sell you GL5 because it meets GL4 standards, TURN AND RUN.


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