installing my nismofpr...ut oh

[240life]

I ran good quality wire (forgot the gauge) from my battery with a 15 amp fusible link. Mounted my switch in a discrete location making sure to ground it properly. I then ran the power and ground all the way to the pump. This part is important, you are going to have to remove the passenger panel and cut the power source to your pump or it will fry all of your wires....connect your new power source to your pump. I also threw another grond off of the pump for extra safety. It will work at full capacity, but your fpr should regulate it's flow if it is working correctly. I recomend an inline gauge.

[seanman]

i have an inline gauge installed now. does the fuel pump working at full capacity shorten its life? and when you say cut the power source to the pump, are you talking about right off the ecu harness?

[Hijacker]

Cody, S13 chassis have the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box. Putting it in the driver's kick panel is an S14 thing.

sean, to test if you have a good ground for your relay, do this.

1- pull the relay out2- turn the car to 'on'3- take a test light and apply it across the two pin receivers that are furthest apart.4- if that doesn't light up, then test to make sure you have a good power supply. You want the one labelled in my above picture as B/W. If you have power there, you've narrowed it down to either a bad ECU or bad wiring.

What you can do, then, is turn the car off, replace the relay, and remove the ECU.

If you go by my picture, Pin 104 is the B/P wire. If you turn the car back on, attach your test light to a good ground source, you should have power across that terminal when you test it.

If you do get power, then you have a bad ECU. If you don't, then you know something in the harness is effed up. I would start with usual suspects before I go cutting and soldering. Make sure that the EFI -> Chassis harness plug by the battery is making good connection. The Black/Pink wire passes through there and if it's not making good contact, it will act like a bad ground.

If you can test that as a good connection, then you need to isolate where the potential problem is. Is it in the EFI harness or the chassis harness? A continuity tester will be your friend. You can test between the relay plug and the chassis connector as well as the EFI side of that connector and the ECU plug. Depending where it is, repair it and move on.

Hopefully this is just a bad ECU. 9/10 when I see issues like this crop up, it turns out to be ECU related.

[seanman]

i dont have a test light, can i use my voltmeter? and if it is a bad ecu, how much is a replacement?

[Hijacker]

Voltmeter will work just fine. Just anything that you can use to see if current is flowing over the line.

Replacements vary in cost depending on where you buy them from.

[seanman]

alright im gunna go start testing like you said.

[240life]

Yeah definetally test everything first..my solution is a last resort, like I said my ecu was the culprit and i was not going to replace it to just end up throwing it away in a couple months when my swap is done...Good luck, I hope you don't have to deal with a bunch of electrical gremlins for to long.

[seanman]

ok when i had the relay out and ignition on the two furthest pins read nothing.

when i tested between the closer B/W pin and ground i got 11.95v, and between the further B/W pin i got the same.

i pull out the ecu and grounded pin 104 on the harness to the chassis and got nothing.

which brings me to the EFI: is the EFI the lower harness? if so, where is the black/pink wire you said sometimes causes problems? and when im supposed to test between the relay and the EFI chassis connector, where is the chassis connector and also where is the EFI side connector that i would be testing between the ECU plug?

Its mainly just the last part you said to try that i need a bit more explanation on. THANKS!

[Hijacker]

EFI is he main engine harness.

Like I said before, the chassis -> EFI connector is beside the battery tray. It's actually two plugs, a grey and brown one.

I would just check to make sure that the connection is tight and that you're pulling continuity across it.

[seanman]

ok between the EFI red and pink wire pin and the relay i get 12.20v. between that same pin and the 104 pin on the ecu harness i get nothing. i wasn't really sure how to test continuity accross the EFI side harness when its connected, but i think i did it right. i revealed a small part of the black/pink wire after that side harness and tested it on the same B/W pin and got nothing. so i started probing around the pump relay and found continuity between the B/Y pin and the red/pink wire after the harness.. should that be like that??

[seanman]

bump

[codyace]

Damn s13's being quirky! I really need to work on more of them hehe...s14's have spoiled me!

Seanman: Noneed to bump this thread every 6 hours...it's annoying.

[seanman]

haha sorry, i had a brain fart and didn't realize there were two pages lol.

And im just getting really stressed. my DD isn't running and i need to get to work, so for now i have my old explorer but the insurance runs out on the may 3rd and i need to sell it also. plus every time i read a thread i crave for my baby to run so i can go eff around. And thank you guys for all the help im getting.
Modified by seanman at 2:39 PM 5/2/2008

[seanman]

ok i checked my ecu, got code 55. it flashed 5 times slowly, then paused then 5 times fast. i tested continuity between pin 104 and the black/pink wire on the EFI harness next to the battery and i got nothing. so im thinking my problem is within my EFI harness, because i have power on the B/W pin and ground at my relay. so whats next? could i splice in a wire from the pinout 104 to that connecting harness next to the batter as long as i make sure and cut the real wire?

[240life]

Sent you an e-mail. Hopefully it helps till you can track down your problem.