installing my nismofpr...ut oh

[seanman]

so i just installed my nismo fpr, and my fuel pressure gauge. both are installed correctly with no leaks. i pulled the fuel pump fuse out and hard wired the two closer prongs together and set it to 36 psi, which is what i got from another post on here. put everything back together and took off. i noticed i felt like i was having fuel cut. it would still rev but it felt like the horsepower was just deminishing. so i took her back and adjusted it to 39-40psi and cranked her over, she started then sputtered then died. so i did it all over again and set her back to 36 psi. now when i try to start her she'll kick like its turning over but will sputter and die. i think i might have just flooded my cylinders, but im not sure. what do you guys think?

[otterman]

I have no idea what you're talking about with pulling the fuse and wiring prongs... but!

Did you pull the vacuum hose of fpr when you set the pressure? Cause you're supposed to.

[seanman]

no... i read this thread on installing your nismofpr and it said pull the fuel pump fuse and hard wire the two closer prongs where the fuse is supposed to connect but do not start it. then when you turn the key to "on" it turns the pump on and gives you pressure. could you please tell me how to do it correctly? just the setting of the pressure

[otterman]

Can you link the thread?

When you set the fuel pressure, you need to disconnect the vacuum source, then set it to 40psi (I think is what it's supposed to be?) then put the vacuum back on.
Modified by otterman at 5:40 PM 4/26/2008

[Emperor_Tha]

42 psi with no vacuum and 36 psi with vacuum at idle

[otterman]

42 psi with no vacuum and 36 psi with vacuum at idle

yeah that

[seanman]

Can you link the thread?

ok well i set it way wrong then! well it still doesn't start so do you think all i did was flood it?

[seanman]

i just went down crank the engine over w/o the pump fuse to get rid of anything in the cylinders. Then when i plugged it back in and turn the key, my pump didn't prime or turn on and my car just cranked but no start. so im guessing my fuel pump fuse just crapped out, time for shopping!

[codyace]

are you sure you put the fuel lines back on the right ends etc etc etc?

Remember, the fuel comes from filter, to rail, out of rail through the FPR, and then from FPR to the return line....

[seanman]

yeah im positive i did cause i drove it after i put the afpr on. So i checked the 10amp fuse for the fuel pump and its fine, and i replaced the relay and it still wont prime when i turn the key to the on position. if i use a wire to relay the two closer tabs on the pump relay then it will prime with the ignition turned to on. So im pretty sure that means my pump is fine. what could have happened?? i need my car stat for tomorrow!!

[seanman]

bump!

[seanman]

anyone? please i really need help

[T-rev]

I really hope you its not your ecu. Heres a thread I made a while ago, I had the exact same no fuel pump problem. Pull your ecu and look for the solder run in the picturehttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=265103

good luck

[seanman]

ok that gave me some ideas. When i was first setting the pressure with the wire relaying between the two pins, you're not supposed to start the car, idk why but i was told DONT. well i didn't till one time. right after i thought i had it right, i turned over the engine with the wire relaying then shut it off 5 seconds after realizing it. where would any kind of damage be in the harness/ecu area?...

[codyace]

where is the link to this sticky for th FPR

[Hijacker]

I found it. I kept thinking it was in KA-T, but it was in the CA forums:zerothread?id=214558

I've never been a big fan of the relay jumper method to set the regulator pressure.

you can prime the fuel pump by turning the ignition key to "on" just the same as jumping the relay pins.

Also, our fuel pressure should be set at a stock 43.5 psi with the vac line dissengaged. It should be 36 psi with the vac line attached and the motor on.

[T-rev]

crud, I just realized what you were doing with the jumper you kept talking about and now Im really worried.

If things went wrong, when you jumpered that relay it could have possibly drawn enough current to fry that solder run in your ecu.

When I was installing my nismo fpr I got screwed up with left and right and cranked my fuel pressure high enough to blow that fuse, so the pump can draw alot of current if things go wrong.

The good news is, I was able to repair the burnt solder run. Actually it was a friend who is more handy with a soldering iron than me.

[Hijacker]

If he jumped the relay properly, the ECU is taken out of the equation. The ECU merely grounds out the relay selenoid, but the real current flows through the gated side of the relay. If he removed the relay and jumped the proper pins (3 and 5), then the ECU would never see current drawn across the grounding circuit. In fact, if he jumped the motor circuit to the ECU grounding circuit on accident (pins 5 and 1), nothing would happen as there would be no voltage supply on the circuit.

EDIT: To explain it a little better:

The ECU just completes a ground for the relay selenoid. The relay takes all the load the fuel pump wants to draw. The jumper wire is designed to replace the gated side of the relay. But since there's nothing that makes the ECU turn off the pump, making a jumper wire is just wasted effort IMO.

Personally speaking, I think the OP's problem lies in the fact his fuel pressure is set so low. The car just isn't getting enough gas and it's dieing.

[codyace]

/\ /\ I found that out the hard way, when my ground from ECU to the fuel pump relay somehow stopped working. I added my own ground it just runs and runs and runs

I still prefer this method...maybe this could be a sticky?

1. Pull Fuel Pump Fuse

2. Turn car on, let it run until it dies

3. Disconnect return line and vacuum line from stock FPR

4. Remove stock fpr from rail

5. Put new Nismo FPR in rail

6. Reconnect return fuel line

7. Install fuel pressure gauge adapter, by splicing it into fuel feed line

8. Put fuel pump fuse back in

9. Turn car on

10. In the engine bay, watch the fuel pressure gauge.

11. Loosen lower nut on FPR, and turn upper adjustment nut on FPR until 43.5 is achieved on the pressure gauge. One found, lock/tighen lower nut

12. Recoonect vacuum tube

13. Done

To easy....we get soe many of these questions, and that guide in the one section is so crappy as it is, that this should be the new method.

[Hijacker]

I agree with you Cody. Do you mind starting up a new thread with all that so I can just add it to the FAQ? Also, if you have any pictures to add, I'll relay it to the article guys on staff and get it on the tech page. The one we have on the tech page is pretty lame.

[homeslicej2]

The one we have on the tech page is pretty lame.

[seanman]

wow thank you guys so much!! I'm relieved to have some possibilities. i did do the relay properly because the pump primed. but theres still the problem that it wont prime unless i have the jumper wire connected where the relay is supposed to be. Should i just start with opening up my ecu to look at it? i have to say that idea scares the crap out of me because i've never delt with an ecu other than swapping the sr20 and ka one when i installed my engine. i just need a starting point. thank you guys!

[seanman]

bump please

[seanman]

Ok so i decided to open up my ecu to take a look for any burns or bad connections that would cause my pump not to prime. I have to admit i have no idea what im looking at, just a bunch of capacitors and resistors. i cant see any burns or broken connections. would there be a certain area that would have any visual signs of stress that could be related to my fuel problem? im gunna put it back in my car and check for codes..once i figure out how to exactly

[seanman]

ok i did some research in my fsm on the fuel pump control. the ecu relays info to the fuel pump, which depending on that info, it will decide if the pump should start priming. The ecu decides from 4 main factors: camshaft position sensor, mass air flow sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, and the ignition switch. Now if all that checks out then the fuel pump relay will do its job and turn on the pump. Im not saying all this to sound smart, just info i found. i think this could help with my diagnosis; im pretty sure my CAS is fine, coolant temp is good and i know my ignition works. So that leaves the mass air flow; i think when i put too much fuel through the pressure regulator and it stalled, that somehow my ecu tried to fix it immediately and in doing so did something to my MAF. What do you guys think?

[codyace]

Does your fuel pump prime?

Can you see on the gauge what your pressure is at?

Did you kill the fuel pump fuse

Did you check the fuel pump relay

Did you run a known power wire direct to the pump

Did you put the fuel lines on backward

If you didn't touch anythign else, just sit there and crank that ***** with the pedal WOT until she starts. Did you try spraying any either into the intake to see if it starts?

[seanman]

fuel pump does not prime with ignition unless i use the a relay wire between the two closer terminals on the relay. i can see what the pressure is at when im doing the above mentionedthe fuel pump fuse is goodi switched the relay with a new one and still nothingwhat do you mean by known power wire? like directly from the batter? i haven't ran any direct linesfuel lines are on correctlyand as for the last part, if i use the relay wire like i said above to prime the pump then remove it and try and crank her over, then she'll sputter to life for a second until she burns all the gas that was just primed.

FYI: i really appreciate the help im getting from everyone. This situation is stressing me out real bad. thank you nicomembers.

[240life]

I know this isn't a typical problem but have you tried swapping the ECU? Mine went bad on my KA and wouldn't send a signal to the relay, resulting in my fuel pump not operating. I ended up wiring the fuel pump up to a toggle switch to get me by untill I get my new motorset. It's a suggestion.

[seanman]

i would if i knew anyone around here with a sr20. does wiring your pump to a switch make your pump run at full capacity? or does the pump have a constant output thats just limited by the fpr?

[codyace]

where that fuel pump relay is (drivers footwell)

pull it out

find out which wire is the ground, and add a new ground to it (essentially snip off the harness ground).

If that doesn't work, run a direct jumper/test wire from the battery to the fuel pump power wire (from relay to pump) to see if that works.

I'm willing to bet it's that relay, or the wiring assocaited with it.