Installed EBC & 444cc, but car is running very shi**y, what could be wrong??

[CA19DET]

also check the ECU for error codes, i think it may be in safe mode, maybe a tempature sensor, O2, detonation sensor etc..

or you could also see if you are getting and AFM error, try cleaning it with electrical component cleaner and dry caarefully with an air can or something...

if you still get EFM error, you got to get the Z32 one, looks like you are one the right track..

on the idle screw - there is one on the Throttle body itself, near where the cable swing/spring is, look and yee shall find.. BUT i think you should your check the ECU for errors first before fiddleing..

also your plugs may need cleaning from being so flooded with the problems from before...

check everything carefully..

[JDMSIL80]

I tried re-setting the ECU, but the car still cannot hold idle and have stalling issue.

It also have a hard time revving up from under 2000 in each gear,I have to rev it up higher than 2000 in neutral, then put in gear to get it moving smoothly. Once I get it moving, the car drives normal again and have decent power.

Do you think the S-AFC will really help me out at this point to control fuel from idle to low rpm range?? most important, to keep idle stable so that it wouldn't stall on me?

What kind of tools do I need to check for ECU codes and AFM error?

I will try adjust the idling screw just to see what changes, which way do I turn to bring the idle higher?


Modified by JDMSIL80 at 12:01 PM 10/4/2005

[biosehnsucht]

idle isntability either means you have the wrong MAF or some kind of vacuum leak probably

if you knew what MAF your ECU wanted, you could either get that or use a SAFC to compensate, but otherwise its a big guessing game.

don't recall which way to turn it, just try both ways.. I think "unscrewing" it makes it go higher..

as for codes, RTFSM. There's a whole section on troubleshooting ECU codes in their in the EF&EC section..

[Akihisa]

Is there any way to view the eprom on the PC and pull the information out of it. So you can see what is tuned for?

[JDMSIL80]

Im sure vacuum leak is out of the question, since there is no idling issue with my stock MAF in place.

If my ecu is made for a bigger MAF, should I not have any idling/stalling issues?

I could put my stock MAF back in place, but since Im already in the right direction maybe I should move along and proceed with the next appropriate mods.

My friend has S-AFC II lying around and offer me to try it out, should I give it a shot?

Only concern I have is whether it could fix the stalling problem...

idle isntability either means you have the wrong MAF or some kind of vacuum leak probably

if you knew what MAF your ECU wanted, you could either get that or use a SAFC to compensate, but otherwise its a big guessing game.

don't recall which way to turn it, just try both ways.. I think "unscrewing" it makes it go higher..

as for codes, RTFSM. There's a whole section on troubleshooting ECU codes in their in the EF&EC section..

[slownslurious]

I think you should find a stock ecu and start from there, you have no idea what that ECU was tuned for. It could have the rev limiter set at 6k... it could be tuned for RB20, 25, Z32, or Q45 mafs... could be tuned for 370, 440's, or 550's...you are just blindly stabbing in the dark by hooking up parts trying to satisfy this mystery ECU...

also for the record jdm fuel is not rocket fuel or aything, its just measured differently.

[JDMSIL80]

I have a stock ECU and have tried running with it before I put on the N60 MAF. The car didn't run right with a lot of mis-firing, mostly because I already had the 444cc injectors.

I highly doubt the stock ECU would do me any good at this point, unless if I chip it with another program.

The Blitz ecu doesn't have rev limiter, according to RHDJapan who sold me the ecu, it has boost & rev limiter removed.

The fuel cut-off I was experiencing is mostly associated with the stock MAF, it wouldn't let me boost over 7psi. That is the reason I went for a bigger MAF.

Now its just the question on how to make all the parts work well together. I know a standalone would take care of all these issues, but I really dont want to spend so much money until I get the car running properly...at least.

I think you should find a stock ecu and start from there, you have no idea what that ECU was tuned for. It could have the rev limiter set at 6k... it could be tuned for RB20, 25, Z32, or Q45 mafs... could be tuned for 370, 440's, or 550's...you are just blindly stabbing in the dark by hooking up parts trying to satisfy this mystery ECU...

also for the record jdm fuel is not rocket fuel or aything, its just measured differently.

[biosehnsucht]

if it idles fine on a stock MAF and not on a bigger one, then likely either the stock MAF is correct or whatever "bigger" one its meant for has the same charachterists down low, in which case the MAF you have now is wrong.

[Not_a_sr]

I have a stock ECU and have tried running with it before I put on the N60 MAF. The car didn't run right with a lot of mis-firing, mostly because I already had the 444cc injectors.

I highly doubt the stock ECU would do me any good at this point, unless if I chip it with another program.

The Blitz ecu doesn't have rev limiter, according to RHDJapan who sold me the ecu, it has boost & rev limiter removed.

The fuel cut-off I was experiencing is mostly associated with the stock MAF, it wouldn't let me boost over 7psi. That is the reason I went for a bigger MAF.

Now its just the question on how to make all the parts work well together. I know a standalone would take care of all these issues, but I really dont want to spend so much money until I get the car running properly...at least.

AHHHHHHHHHH

just put back in your stock injectors,stock maf, and Stock ECU.

buy a ECU or chip that is programmed for the rb20maf, and 444CC injectors (where did you get 444's any how???? sure thats the correct size???)

once you do this your problems will probably go away!!

you are goin to kill your motor with your setup, for the people who think you cant kill a motor by being too rich your sadly mistaken.. it will eat a motor alive, fuel thins out the oil and lowers oil pressures dangerously low. it also induces a condition call bore wash, which eats rings and cylinder walls like its breakfast...

get this thing back to stock and buy a ECU program that works and go from there, or send it to a shop to let people who know what they are doing deal with it... you will not get this thing running right as it is...

and RHDandy probably couldnt tell you the differance between a Sr ecu and a ca18 ecu if it wasnt written on the case, so i highly doubt he has anyclue what your ECU was programmed for.

[8ggalant]

AHHHHHHHHHH

just put back in your stock injectors,stock maf, and Stock ECU.

buy a ECU or chip that is programmed for the rb20maf, and 444CC injectors (where did you get 444's any how???? sure thats the correct size???)

once you do this your problems will probably go away!!

you are goin to kill your motor with your setup, for the people who think you cant kill a motor by being too rich your sadly mistaken.. it will eat a motor alive, fuel thins out the oil and lowers oil pressures dangerously low. it also induces a condition call bore wash, which eats rings and cylinder walls like its breakfast...

get this thing back to stock and buy a ECU program that works and go from there, or send it to a shop to let people who know what they are doing deal with it... you will not get this thing running right as it is...

and RHDandy probably couldnt tell you the differance between a Sr ecu and a ca18 ecu if it wasnt written on the case, so i highly doubt he has anyclue what your ECU was programmed for.

(where did you get 444's any how???? sure thats the correct size???)

probly gti-r/gtr

[/QUOTE]

and RHDandy probably couldnt tell you the differance between a Sr ecu and a ca18 ecu if it wasnt written on the case, so i highly doubt he has anyclue what your ECU was programmed for.

lolaint that the truth

[JDMSIL80]

Instead of going back again taking everything apart, Im starting to feel tired about all these problems with the car...Maybe I should go for standalone and call it a day.

Im just one click away from buying the Power FC, does it have the capability to take readings from my N60 MAF and tune from there??

Would it cure all the problems as far as you can see?

[Not_a_sr]

probably not, with one of those systems you would have to know how to tune it, and guessing by how much trouble you are having right now it would take you a really really long time to tune it right , and you might loose a motor in the process, unless your planning on taking it to someone with some experiance...

[fanta]

Instead of going back again taking everything apart, Im starting to feel tired about all these problems with the car...Maybe I should go for standalone and call it a day.

Im just one click away from buying the Power FC, does it have the capability to take readings from my N60 MAF and tune from there??

Would it cure all the problems as far as you can see?

A MAF/injector/ECU swap is a wise step; if it is too tiresome, reconsider your plans to keep tinkering on your own. It would be in your best interest to heed the advice others have given and get the car running correctly before switching to a PFC.

Your time, your money, your car, your decision.

[biosehnsucht]

Yes, unless you will have someone else do it, don't do it - you've already shown you already don't know what you're doing. I'm not trying to be mean, but trying to save you the heartache oaf a blown motor.

My advice at this point is to return to stock and learn more about your car's engine management system, and how such things work in general, before continuing.

Alternatively, If you can find someone to socket your stock ECU (perhaps try a VCR repair shop, they should be more than able to, altho its not their normal line of work) then one of us can likely program you a rom for more or less your current mods.. However again I'm not sure if anyone has the MAF table for a N60 .. might have to get a real Z32 MAF or such so it's a known quantity. What is the part# on the MAF ? (its on the little sticker, it has two 5 digit #'s XXXXX-XXXXX)

Anyways, if you're going to throw even more money at it, throw some at a competent engine tuner / shop to get it all working. There's always something we can't do; in my case I don't have the tools or skills to bore & hone, deck, etc my block or replace the valvestems in my head, I paid shops to do these for me, despite being able to more or less do EVERYTHING else with the help of a friend - it was a learning experience for us both, sure, but I went into it with a greater detail of knowledge, and knew when to get help.

Again, don't take this as any kind of insult but as advice because we DO care about our fellow members, even if we are sometimes very harsh in how we expres ourselves.

[fanta]

However again I'm not sure if anyone has the MAF table for a N60

http://www2.osk.3web.ne.jp/~t1....html

Another indispensible ROM site: http://www.tangentrix.com/forums/

[biosehnsucht]

Yes, I'm just pointing out *I* don't know what a N60 is. It's not a Z32, from wht others have already said.

[slownslurious]

I have a stock mafs and I've had my car up to 15 psi and its just fine... if your mafs is cutting out at 7 psi on a stock turbo ca18 then something isn't right to start with. Personally I would probably get some stock stuff (available cheap from members on this board) and make sure the engine was ok stock. thats always gotta be step #1. If you try to change everything from the start then when something goes wrong you don't know what it is.

[JDMSIL80]

This is the code on the N60 MAF: 22680 02U00 A36-000 N60

Does it help you in identify the MAF?

From what I searched, these are the cars/engines that came with it:

RB20DETRB25DETVG30DE

I already purchased the Apexi Power FC as we're speaking, hopefully its worth the money.

Yes, I'm just pointing out *I* don't know what a N60 is. It's not a Z32, from wht others have already said.

[JDMSIL80]

Maybe my blitz ecu has the boost/fuel limiter set at 7psi?? who knows as this is just a guessing game....

I am running GT28R not stock turbo, maybe thats the reason the MAF cuts-out??

What other factors may contribute to early cut-off? Would running a standalone eliminate this problem?

I have a stock mafs and I've had my car up to 15 psi and its just fine... if your mafs is cutting out at 7 psi on a stock turbo ca18 then something isn't right to start with. Personally I would probably get some stock stuff (available cheap from members on this board) and make sure the engine was ok stock. thats always gotta be step #1. If you try to change everything from the start then when something goes wrong you don't know what it is.

Modified by JDMSIL80 at 9:26 AM 10/5/2005

[slownslurious]

even with a bigger turbo I woulnd't think it would cut out at 7 psi. Unless you wired the stock boost soenoid in and ran it inline to your wastegate (not recommended) there is no factory boost cut. The power FC should work, just get the thing trailered or towed to a shop with a dyno that knows what they are doing.... as other members have stated, it surprises me that you have so much money thrown at this car with such apparent disregard for the consequences of your impatience.

[JDMSIL80]

Im gonna reconnect the stock MAF tonight, just to get the car running properly again so I at least can still drive around. Anyway, Power FC is on the way. It has a base map so it should work with stock MAF so I can drive to the shop to do some basic tunning while familiarize myself with its function. Then later i can swap with the bigger MAF and tune more power with it.

[biosehnsucht]

This is the code on the N60 MAF: 22680 02U00 A36-000 N60

Ah, same part# as my RB20DET MAF.. at least he part # part, mine then says J60 instead of N60, interesting..

well good luck with the PFC tuning, glad to hear you intend to take it to a shop to get it tuned / learn how to tune it.

[JDMSIL80]

So does my RB20DET MAF has the same flow capacity as the Z32?

Would it matter since Im gonna be running standalone anyway..?

Ah, same part# as my RB20DET MAF.. at least he part # part, mine then says J60 instead of N60, interesting..

well good luck with the PFC tuning, glad to hear you intend to take it to a shop to get it tuned / learn how to tune it.