Injectors/Throttle Position Sensor/Knock Sensors Problems

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Infinitiguy19
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OK I just checked the Fuel injectors and they all OHM at 12.9 OHMS but it feels like one or two is worse in the morning then when they warm up, But I did test the fuel injectors when they were warmed up.

My question is: Is it possible to have injectors be bad in the morning then get better but not 100% by the time the car warms up?

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I tested my knock sensors today, and I got a reading around 450 OHMS but only one pin gave me that reading the others gave no reading. I tested the connector on the engine (The one with the male pins).

Is this possible and am I doing something wrong?

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I adjusted my TPS today from .70 which it was previously at to .44 (recommended by Q45tech and the FSM) but the TPS sensor was giving false and "jumpy" readings (Meaning that when at WOT on the throttle body, the reading would go from .44-4.xx volts) is that normal?

What is a bad TPS, and how do I find out?


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elwesso
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Have you ohm tested the injectors HOT and COLD?

You have your consult, right? is that what you're looking to when giving these results. If youre not getting a code 34 then id say your KS are OK and maybe made an error in reading the resistance.

could you briefly describe the symptoms you're having, what might really be helpful is a video if you have the capability for that!

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Infinitiguy19
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Just hot, its too cold in the morning, But I guess I have to test when cold so I will.

Well, no codes from ECM and I will try to measure again.

I will see if I can get a video, But basically when at WOT the TPS fluctuated from 4.xx volts to .44 volts then went back up. The shifts are nice and smother or smother than before, but acceleration is suffering and is the same no matter the adjustment.

But I was reading on of Q45techs post and it said the ECM is supposed to be reset after TPS installation/tweaking, so it might be possible that the ECU did'nt complete the "Self Learn".

And also another problem i forgot to list is that when ever I turn the steering wheel I can see the RPM's drop a little maybe 50-100 RPM's, Is this normal?

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A 1990 to 1995 ecu has a very short memory and resets itself totally within 30 seconds at 60 mph...............every sensor is read in real time and faults only take 5 seconds to show up.

Worn piston rings may take a few minutes after cranking to properly seal to spec as things expand from heat.

Same with rubber injector to runner lower gasket .................air leak until it warms...............why they may need periodic replacement as they get hard from age.

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elwesso
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TPS is going to have maybe 1% effect on acceleration where it might have 95% effect on when/how the trans shifts. If the trans shifts when its supposed to and shifts smooth, i would throw the TPS out the window.

so essentially we're dealing with an acceleration issue?

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goody90q45
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Paul Wall wrote:I tested my knock sensors today, and I got a reading around 450 OHMS but only one pin gave me that reading the others gave no reading. I tested the connector on the engine (The one with the male pins). Is this possible and am I doing something wrong?
If you tested the KS as shown in the pic (bottom 2 pins only, neg probe to neg post on battery) then you have a dead KS and one that is on it's way out. They should be reading about 550k ohms resistance.


Paul Wall wrote:OK I just checked the Fuel injectors and they all OHM at 12.9 OHMS but it feels like one or two is worse in the morning then when they warm up, But I did test the fuel injectors when they were warmed up.

My question is: Is it possible to have injectors be bad in the morning then get better but not 100% by the time the car warms up?
When they're dying they will work off and on. Sometimes hot, sometimes cold. Have you been able to turn off one cylinder at a time using your consult program to narrow in on the missing cylinders?

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Infinitiguy19
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elwesso wrote:TPS is going to have maybe 1% effect on acceleration where it might have 95% effect on when/how the trans shifts. If the trans shifts when its supposed to and shifts smooth, i would throw the TPS out the window.

so essentially we're dealing with an acceleration issue?
Well the FSM states [Just as idle switch is turned off= poor acceleration] which I have no idea what that means.
goody94q45 wrote:
If you tested the KS as shown in the pic (bottom 2 pins only, neg probe to neg post on battery) then you have a dead KS and one that is on it's way out. They should be reading about 550k ohms resistance.



When they're dying they will work off and on. Sometimes hot, sometimes cold. Have you been able to turn off one cylinder at a time using your consult program to narrow in on the missing cylinders?
I tested the wrong plug, I tested the one with a different set a of pins.

Well when I turn off the cylinder for each one the enine acts worse than before, But recently some times the engine warms up/idles really bad in the moring, So I just need to find the oppertune time to test the engine in the moring.

Off to test the cold injectors, and the RIGHT plug for the KS's

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Infinitiguy19
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OK the TPS problem is solved see this topic: zerothread/330815

Now I will test the KS tomorrow along with the injectors.

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Carl H
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i have been having similar issues with my vh as it would run great from a dead cold start but then once you shut it down it would drop a cylinder or 2 and then gradually come back.now it has atleast one dead cylinder and i suspect the injectors are starting to fail.

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Infinitiguy19
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Carl H wrote:i have been having similar issues with my vh as it would run great from a dead cold start but then once you shut it down it would drop a cylinder or 2 and then gradually come back.now it has at least one dead cylinder and i suspect the injectors are starting to fail.
I would defiantly follow the above instructions on testing them.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------But I would like to add that when i pulled off the engine ornamental covers (The black pieces, on says the HP and Torque that the car produces), I found that I had purple injectors. And since they were defiantly the phase one injectors that leads me to believe that I have the old BWD (China) injectors.

So that said I can say with 50% certainty that the old ones are crap, But on the new injectors (That 1990Q45 is trying out) I hope they work as expected (Being able to handle E10).

And as for the TPS sensor being perfect well since I took longer than expected to replace it, the coolant had cooled down below 179* and I had tuned it to lower than hat it should be (.44 volts) and it is currently set to (.36 volts) so I need to fix it tomorrow (screw) because today when i let off the gas it would incorrectly try to down shift into second gear.

So from my experice on the TPS sensor: If set higher than .44 volts car will shift harder (AT-CHECK will not work and possibly stay at the AT-CHECK screen). If set lower than .44 volts the car will incorrectly down shift (AT-CHECK will work but you won't know whats wrong, therefor making it harder to diagnose to those who don't know much about the car).

The TPS has to be set exactly at .44 volts. (AT-CHECK will work correctly and no need to worry about the TPS sensor).

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goody90q45
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Paul Wall wrote:Now I will test the KS tomorrow along with the injectors.
How did the retest of the KS turn out?

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Infinitiguy19
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Knock sensor are fine, But I took a picture of the ECU talk dahsboard so you guys can tell me if my car is fine:


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Dial display is pretty worthless in that you need decimals to resolve TPS [0.44], Injector millisecs [1.4] , rpm [650], MAF voltage [1.2] etc.

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Infinitiguy19
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So the Injector pulse is too high?

And as for the dial display, I have no choice but to use it.

But all else is fine?


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