Is there a fuse for the WOT switch/kick down switch

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Infinitiguy19
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Just wondering cause I ran the A/T check and it stayed at that screen so the WOT switch/kick down switch isn't working. But the FSM also states that it could be the Inhibitor switch, 1 position switch, closed throttle position switch, and diagnostic information display circuit checks.

Or is there a fuse/relay for any other components listed above?

but in the FSM it says you can diagnose the problem without a consult 2 is it easy to do it or should I dish out $130?


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qsiguy
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Just follow the non consult testing procedures. Sounds like you already found the info in the FSM. It will have procedures for both the Consult method as well as the non Consult method. Don't have time to dig it up for you right now but post back if you can't figure it out. You'll most likely need a multimeter to run these tests.

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qsiguy
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I was doing a little work on my car tonight and had to work with some of these systems. The kick down switch does not have a fuse. It goes from terminal 41 on the TCU to the switch on the accelerator pedal straight to ground. When you go WOT the switch closes and terminal 41 of the TCU sees a ground.

The throttle position switch is a little more complicated. From terminal 21 of the TCU it leads to the throttle position switch through a resistor then to the ECCS relay then to the battery. I have to assume through a fuse because I did not see it listed in two separate diagrams I looked at tonight.

The inhibitor switch is much more complex and certainly could be a problem. I'm sure there are some testing procedures in the FSM. I'm not sure where the 1 position switch is but it's a simple circuit. The inhibitor switch and the 1 position switch share the same 10 amp fuse.

Have you had your TCU or ECU out of the car or unplugged recently? If to you might try reseating the plug/harness. If there is a loose wire on the TCU or ECU you can get error messages. I've had a "Transmission Malfunction" message on my car and it was just a wire on the ECU that leads to the TCU. The throttle position sensor IIRC.

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Infinitiguy19
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Well the guy I bought the car from "Gloucester Q" took Great care of the car at least inside of the engine bay and undercarriage. but he had some problems with the alarm so he took off the right kick panel but I see that the ECU is intact and not touched.

But I will see if replugging in the TCU and ECU have any effect. Then i will try to test the pins on the TCU or is it the harness to the TCU that I an supposed to test?

Isn't there a relay either for any of the above components because those are far easier to replace than to test out the TCU? Plus those go all the time.

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Q451990
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Remember that the transmission has to be warmed up for the self-check to work. I tried when it was cold and got the same result you mentioned. With the car quiet you should actually hear the kick-down switch click when you floor it.

Heath

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Infinitiguy19
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I tried the test after I drove around for an hour mostly highway which is more than enough to warm up the entire car especially in 75 degree weather and still stuck at the same screen.

I can hear the switch when driving and when the car is of when i stomp on the pedal.

But after the click it goes down a bit further I will try and see what happens when i stomp on it all the way down.

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qsiguy
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I doubt there's a problem with the kick down switch, it's probably the simplest of the ones you mentioned to check tho. It's on top of the accelerator pedal and has two wires. The black one should be ground and the other one will be ground when the accelerator/switch is pressed.

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Infinitiguy19
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Wow simple but hard to get to I will try and report back.
Modified by ppastos at 7:14 PM 4/19/2008

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qsiguy
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Should just need to drop the cover from under the dash to reach the kick down switch. I didn't think much of it because all my dash panels have been off for months working on the turbo, gauges, etc.

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Infinitiguy19
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For some reason when I cleaned the engine bay "i mean really cleaned it" now I think it works cause when I punch it a 30 it feels like there a turbo in it because in less than a second I'm up to 50 MPH. So if I have any more problems I will just clean the engine bay.

Thanks for sticking with me and helping me try to solve this problem.

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Infinitiguy19
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OK sorry to bring up and old topic, But to add to this the car kicks down when its at 25 MPH but above that it fails to kick down? above that it doesn't feel like its going to a lower gear I also look at the RPM's and see no increase.

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Fully explained in FSM graphs that [90-93] 1st gear WOT downshift is limited to 22 mph unless you move the gear shift manually to 1st.

qship96
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Did you try to clean the engine bay again, I mean Really clean it?

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Infinitiguy19
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heck yea i will grab a pick

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ppastos wrote:OK sorry to bring up and old topic, But to add to this the car kicks down when its at 25 MPH but above that it fails to kick down? above that it doesn't feel like its going to a lower gear I also look at the RPM's and see no increase.
Trans should downshift at any speed except when already in 1st (or if above max RPM for 3rd gear) if the pedal is floored. In other words, it should, depending on which gear you are in and what speed you're going, downshift into 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. Under some conditions, sometimes it might even downshift TWO gears. You can't miss knowing if the trans downshifts by the jolt, noise increase, and almost instant RPM increase. If this doesn't happen, say at 60 MPH for example, you are right in trying to diagnose why it won't downshift. Keep digging, you'll find it. Until you find and fix the problem, you can always manually downshift to pass someone. Easier to just kickdown though, so I'd perservere and get it taken care of. Looks like qsiguy has you on the right track. I suspect he can help you fix it.

Good luck.

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qsiguy
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My '94 won't kick down to 1st if I'm above about 25 mph either. Sound normal to me. The funnest time for me to floor it is at about 20 mph or about 50 mph. That's when I get the biggest kick in the butt from the downshift (without manually doing it)... and quick full boost

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Infinitiguy19
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wait at 50 MPH it kicks down to what gear? second right or third?

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qsiguy
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At ~20 mine kicks down to 1st and at ~50 it kicks down to 2nd.

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ppastos wrote:wait at 50 MPH it kicks down to what gear? second right or third?
As tech noted above, the FSM has charts showing up- and downshift settings by vehicle speed and TPS voltage. Definitely a good reference for diagnosing your problem.

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Infinitiguy19
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Ok i have fixed the pins on the MAF (I bent them down so they form an M) and I put dielectric grease on the connectors,

But when I put the car in reverse I can spin them for about 20 feet. But when I put in drive or first gear I cant barely spin them for a foot actually half a foot?

Also I hear like a turbo whining noise when I floor it or even go hard on it is this good or bad?

Either way it sounds like it has a turbo maybe even a supercharger but a super charger.

qship96
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Easier to burn rubber in reverse due to higher reverse gear and the weight of car transfers off of rear wheels and more on front. When trying to burn rubber going forward, weight transfers towards rear drive wheels aiding traction.

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Infinitiguy19
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Ok I have narrowed it down to diagnostic display TPS and diagnostic display but I think the diagnostic display is OK because it works to me.

But I will have the car checked out by FNA Transmission who have alot of experince and a consult http://www.fnatrans.com/

But just so I know what is a 1st Position switch and what does it do because I cant seem to find any info on it besides its location?

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Infinitiguy19
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OK I have finally solved the AT-CHECK problem where the screen stays at AT-CHECK.

Short story

I replaced the throttle position sensor with another one I had, I cleaned the connectors with electrical parts cleaner, and I put it back together and re-set the ECU and after that it worked.

Long story

I woke up this morning only to find out after I had tweaked the TPS to .44 volts that the SLIP AND TCS OFF lights were on on the dash. I plugged in my laptop and the engine code was [21 Ignition Signal Circuit ], So I drove around to see if the car would shift, And the answer was no it wouldn't shift out of first unless floored.

So I switched the TPS sensor (Pain in the *** by the way) all the connectors I could see and put it all back together. Then I went to the laptop to set the TPS to .44 volts and then reset the ECU.

Started the car up and it ran fine at least as fine as it could with what I think is a bad injector. And it runs an shifts great.

I went home did AT-CHECK and then the code 3 came up AGAIN , SO I went in had a coke and came out and did it again and by the grace of GOD AT-CHECK came back OK.

And now that the screen no longer stays at AT-CHECK despite Wes, QISguy, and Mikes help, But thanks for helping me along the way.

And I also found out that my injectors are purple tops with the 1990-1993 harness, And all the injector caps have HEX BOLTS that's right HEX BOLTS I won't have to use a Philips head and screw up the heads.

O my GOD today was a great day I found out two great things, but with all great days the bad ones will come soon YAY.

So problem solved.

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Paul Wall wrote:I went home did AT-CHECK and then the code 3 came up AGAIN , SO I went in had a coke and came out and did it again and by the grace of GOD AT-CHECK came back OK.
Stored codes get cleared when the AT self-diagnosis is done. Drive around for a while and check one more time to make sure no codes return. Great progress though.
Paul Wall wrote:......And I also found out that my injectors are purple tops with the 1990-1993 harness, And all the injector caps have HEX BOLTS.......
The PO took good care of your Q. You'll appreciate those hex bolts when you have to remove an injector. I had to use an easy out bit more than a few times to remove injector caps from my part cars.


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Infinitiguy19
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Ran it twice and so far no codes and I get the big OK sign.

O yea the PO loved the car, And I love it as well.

Too bad though just when you think you fixed the car another problems pops its ugly head up. I want to see the days where the car is trouble free.

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Infinitiguy19
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For future reference the problem was the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), Replaced it and set it to .44 volts


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