injector not firing/drawing volts

[zombieslider]

ok so #2,3 injectors arent firing and also the injector wiring is reading .014v + with the ignition off.

[zombieslider]

its cranking but wont start and i know that those 2 injectors arent firing, i guess im gonna check the ecu where the wires come in and trace it up to the injectors.

[ca18detgabby]

whats the impedance reading at the injector?

maybe the dropping resistor is dead?

[zombieslider]

honestly i think the meter i was using is bad, but i cant really remember right now the car is at a shop away from my house so i cant go run out and check. FSM says the resistance on the injector should be 2-3ohms but i know it was reading something different. Whats the impedance of the wires to the injectors supposed to be?

[Danski]

The meter is fine. 0.014V is nothing to be worried about. If you want a fun game you could test the p.d over different parts of the cars body/parts, kind of like a hide and seek stray voltage edition.

Now about that fueling issu.Have a look at what this guy has done, http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,588.0.htmlMake a test light into a "noid light" This is an extremely easy thing to do as long as you don't f it up. Plug one side into one of the injector holes and the earth into the other side with a paper clip or nail or anything that will stay there. *Don't let them touch when your cranking.* A multimeter would do the same thing however I'm not sure if a quick injector pulse would be long enough to register a voltage on it. It would be better if you just used a lamp.

Now, if you get a flashing light when you're cranking it means the injectors are getting power and you either have a fried or clogged injector. If not.... well, first things first, do this test. Make sure you check one of the injectors that you think is working as a control and unplug your coil packs but not the igniter as my fuel pump won't go without it (assuming yours is the same deal).

Do this at your own risk....or pay a mechanic to do something similar.

[zombieslider]

i was gonna bring one of those to the shop today but left it at home so im gonna have to pick it up.

the resistance on the injectors and the dropping ressistor are checking out to be fine.

Even if those two injectors are bad it should still start should it not?

[Danski]

I'm going to go with no. Considering half of your motor isn't going I wouldn't think that it would. Does it sound like its trying to start?

[zombieslider]

well my ka started on 1 cylinder, but its just kinda blump blump blump and not really a bang on the last one but like a lil thud louder then the others

[zombieslider]

hooked up the noid light on #3 and got nothing so im gonna check the wires at the ecu out, also assuming #2 isnt going to light either cuz it was dry but still gonna check.

[zombieslider]

ok so the lights not turning on for injector #1 but fuel is still getting into the cylinder

[Danski]

Interesting, I can't really help you with that. Unless your light it too big, I'm fresh out of ideas.

[float_6969]

I'll bet none of the injectors are firing. Do you for sure have spark? If so, you need to double check the wiring behind the battery. Did you connect 2 big wires to 1 big wire? Also check your resistor pack.

The fuel is probably from a bad injector o-ring, but it could be from a bad injector too. I'd start with the o-rings, you can get a new set from the parts store for cheap.

[boost_boy]

I'll bet none of the injectors are firing. Do you for sure have spark? If so, you need to double check the wiring behind the battery. Did you connect 2 big wires to 1 big wire? Also check your resistor pack.

The fuel is probably from a bad injector o-ring, but it could be from a bad injector too. I'd start with the o-rings, you can get a new set from the parts store for cheap.

I'm with you man, I don't think none of it is really working. Again, go back to the wiring job. We can only help so much because we have no idea what's done with the wiring. And judging from my experiences, 98% of the troubles you and most are experiencing is that you guys are inexperienced at wiring and subsequently will create issues such as what you're going through.

Dee

[zombieslider]

i already checked the dropping resistor for its resistance per the fsm and the spec was 6 ohms i got 6.2ohms im guessing thats fine. I already pulled the spark plugs and coil packs and tested them to see if they were sparking and they were i had thought that was the issue before so i replaced the ignitor. Ill go back through all my wiring but I followed the heavythrottle and frsport wiring write ups exactly that doesnt mean something could have gone wrong though.

[zombieslider]

so i got back to workin on it today and right now i was checking for continuity from the injector wire to the ecu and #2 doesnt have any but the others checked out fine.

[zombieslider]

went to check the wire for the dropping resistor to injector come to find out it doesnt have any either, remove plug thats connected to the aac or what evers on the intake manifold right there next to the injectors and wouldnt you know its the wire for the injector so ill have to thank my friend for hooking that up wrong but its still not starting. Im removing the upper timing cover to check if its in timing and will have pix of that so you guys can verify it for me

[zombieslider]

i took some pix for timing reference it looks perfect to me keep in mind ive swapped the intake cam for an exhaust.

[float_6969]

Where is your hot pipe? You're not trying to start the car with no intercooler piping are you?

[zombieslider]

ya the piping should be done tomorrow

[davidricardo86]

Hey thought youd like some more help. Heres the diagrams that you need assuming its just a fuel injector problem.

I suggest you go over the FSM a little more and read up. Somethings not right and you should take some time to figure it out.

[davidricardo86]

The meter is fine. 0.014V is nothing to be worried about. If you want a fun game you could test the p.d over different parts of the cars body/parts, kind of like a hide and seek stray voltage edition.

Now about that fueling issu.Have a look at what this guy has done, http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,588.0.htmlMake a test light into a "noid light" This is an extremely easy thing to do as long as you don't f it up. Plug one side into one of the injector holes and the earth into the other side with a paper clip or nail or anything that will stay there. *Don't let them touch when your cranking.* A multimeter would do the same thing however I'm not sure if a quick injector pulse would be long enough to register a voltage on it. It would be better if you just used a lamp.

Now, if you get a flashing light when you're cranking it means the injectors are getting power and you either have a fried or clogged injector. If not.... well, first things first, do this test. Make sure you check one of the injectors that you think is working as a control and unplug your coil packs but not the igniter as my fuel pump won't go without it (assuming yours is the same deal).

Do this at your own risk....or pay a mechanic to do something similar.

You probably could make it work but at the risk of burning something out. The oem injectors have a specific resistance and the test light doesnt. Hence why you would buy a noid light specific for certain injectors.

[float_6969]

Why did you think the car would start with out any intercooler piping? Maybe if you get a pipe connected directly to the TB and put the MAFS on the end of it.

Is the MAFS connected to the turbo at least?

PLEASE HAVE YOUR SWAP COMPLETED BEFORE YOU POST ABOUT IT NOT RUNNING!

[zombieslider]

Ive looked over those diagrams plenty of times, checked for continuity, the resistance and all for the injectors, dropping resistor, coil packs and ignitor but thanks for the pix david.

the mafs is connected to the throttle body, yes i know its supposed to run with the turbo but an engine is an engine regardless of wether or not the turbo is on it should still at least start, thats all i was trying to do was start it, the only thing i see being different is less air running to it, its not like i just had no piping and tried starting it with nothing going through the maf and tb just open.

[davidricardo86]

Ive looked over those diagrams plenty of times, checked for continuity, the resistance and all for the injectors, dropping resistor, coil packs and ignitor but thanks for the pix david.

the mafs is connected to the throttle body, yes i know its supposed to run with the turbo but an engine is an engine regardless of wether or not the turbo is on it should still at least start, thats all i was trying to do was start it, the only thing i see being different is less air running to it, its not like i just had no piping and tried starting it with nothing going through the maf and tb just open.

Ok so now what? After going through all those checks whats your conclusion? Are you narrowing down the problem? Have you eliminated circuits or systems not causing your problem?

I'd go over the obvious first like grounds, relays, fuses, corrosion or poor connections. You mentioned that part of your harness melted so id fix that portion first and make sure that no other circuits were damaged/shorted because of that.

Next thing i would check is the fuel pump circuit. Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition switch on? Have some one stand by the fuel pump relay to hear if its powering up or a "click" is heard. Is the fuel pump old or new? Is it working properly? Maybe its not? Apply 12V to the fuel pump at the connector above the fuel pump to see if it atleast turns on.

After that i would take a screwdriver and put the metal end on any of the injectors and your ear on the plastic end. Can you hear the injector "ticking" or "clicking" as in opening the injector to release fuel?

You said you checked injector resistance, have you had them cleaned or further tested? Balance/flow tested? Used a DSO to check current ramping in order to see the pintle lift off its sealing position?

Did you verify your dropping resistor to be ok? Maybe its not and you could replace it.

Is your fuel filter clogged? Maybe not enough fuel is making its way to the fuel rail?

Is your computer receiving power via the ECCS relay?

Are all other circuits working correctly? Is the ignition system wired up correctly? Is there something you missed or overlooked? Maybe something you forgot to wire up? Inside the car? In the engine bay by the battery tray?

Theres only so much you can check, the problem will reveal itself but you have to make sure its not something else thats causing you trouble. If all fails then find someone that has knowledge and experience in this matter and have them help you out. If you dont know how to do it, pay someone. Or study and learn and retry?

Goodluck, hope this helps a bit

[zombieslider]

skimmed through a lot of that, resistors fine, walbro is priming kinda hard not to hear it haha, my conclusion from what other ppl are saying is that the intercooler piping isnt hooked up idk Im gonna wait to start again once i get it all done.

[float_6969]

Well having it connected to the TB is good, but IDK if it would work or not. How far away from the TB is it? If it's too close, it'll mess up the signal and the car still won't start.

[davidricardo86]

i took some pix for timing reference it looks perfect to me keep in mind ive swapped the intake cam for an exhaust.

In picture 2 it looks off by one tooth to me (is this because of you swapping your intake cam for an exhaust cam or incorrect timing?).

Maybe you need to go over it again? Seriously, dont skim through it like nothing. CHECK that shiit twice, three, four times until you know its right and not assume it is.

Dee's right, it'll most then likely be in the wiring job.

[float_6969]

He's got the cam timing right from what I can tell. It's supposed to be advanced one tooth to correct the cam timing.

[zombieslider]

david i had meant that i skimmed through what you were asking exactly, and float is right about the timing i have the intake cam swapped for an exhaust one.

and as to float im hoping thats why i just had a coupler on it connecting it to the TB so it was def way to close.

[float_6969]

Yea, having it that close to the TB could be causing problems.