Im broke. And I busted some expensive parts tonight....

[longhornsqx4]

Hey guys, glad I found this forum, looks like theres some helpful guys here. I really just need some advice.

Ive got an 01 Infinity Qx4 with a bad power steering system, Im kinda new to power steering (all my cars are older). This car sprung a leak out of the boot about a month ago after I bought it, I tried some of that stop leak stuff and just kep refilling the fluid. But its just WAY to hard to turn now. Heres whats going on

Its only HARD, like no power steering assitance at all, at minimul speed, like 0-5. But you can tell its tough making slowing turns, doesnt spin nice and free like most new cars I drive do. The rpms also make a difference, like if im parking and stick it and neutral and spin the wheel, its tough, if I rev to 3000, its still tough, but a great improvement.

Im thinking I atleast need a new power steering rack (found a used one on ebay for $250, or can get a reman for $500, and new for $850....

But, if Im full on fluids. WHy would it be hard at all? Does the steering rack affect that? Or is my pump messing up?

I need some help here.

Im sort of inclined to go with the used rack off of ebay because I dont really have any spare cash... but it has 93k on it (my rig has 114), its also coming off of an 02 pathfinder 3.5L, it would bolt right up correct?

Are they hard to swap?

[SixGuns]

Are your belts making any noise? I had the same issue with an '84 Monte Carlo I had with a 384 hp Vortec 350...power steering bracket was cracked at one spot right where it bolted to the block, and as a result, had no tension on the belt. Had to pull the RPM's up to get her to turn at low speeds, until I had the bracket welded....then swapped the motor into the '74 Nova and sold the Nova (one of the saddest days of my life...loved that car)...If belts are tight, pulley is turning, I would remove the belt, spin the pump by hand and see if it's locked up...if not, check your lines for blockage. If you're running power steering stop leak, I've heard of that causing blockage before, 'cause...well, that's what it does. You may also have contaminates in the PS reservoir that would block the lines. If none of that, I would say your pump is shot....good luck with it, and welcome to the forum.

[timmack]

check out this post.....

zerothread?id=391529

[longhornsqx4]

My belts are good, they were replaced as per my request before I got the vehicle, no more than 2000miles on them.

I checked out that thread, there isnt much info in there other than a leak and no solution to fix.

Like I think I defientely need a new rack, cause of the leak, but what causes the ****ty turning at low speeds but fine at higher speeds.... having the engine at operating temp also seems to make a difference, when the fluid gets warm I guess

I was thinking of doing a flush, is there much involved in that? I cant find any info on it in the manual

[SnowSurfLax]

Ah, yes, bad power steering.

I had that problem on my old F150 backin the day. The bracket broke and I went without PS for about 6 months until I could locate the damn thing.

The issue is you've got a leak and arent' generating enough pressure to get much (if at all) assistance. So, no assistance and you're also fighting the power steering system, as you have to turn the wheels AND push the fluid around. Very hard to do. Expect to build up some muscle until you get it fixed. (I built huge biceps turning that MoFo for 6 months like that everyday)

It gets easier at higher speeds because it's easier to turn the wheels when you're moving and because as you stated, you're generating a little pressure when the RPM's are up.

Good luck fixing it! PS systems are a ***** if you're not used to working on them, in my experience.

[longhornsqx4]

So your opinions is that I just dont have the pressure (cant see there being much and my leak is small) and that fixing just the rack would make it work correctly?

[longhornsqx4]

Also need an opinion, found this used one online, but does it look weird to you? Like were the mounting tabs cut off or something? The 2 main big bolts....







Trying to make it fit an 01... 3.5L

[SnowSurfLax]

So your opinions is that I just dont have the pressure (cant see there being much and my leak is small) and that fixing just the rack would make it work correctly?

I honestly couldnt' tell you. If you know a shop that's nice to you and will do a pressure test free/cheap, you need to do that first. You can't be sure if it's just the pump or there's a leak. Could be either. PS systems are a pain, like I said. Maybe I think so since I know <0 about diagnosing and fixing them.

[longhornsqx4]

No shops in my areas do free quotes, the 2 i went to wanted 1 hour labour for diagnose ($55 and $72), and i figured they would just say replace the whole system no matter what they seen.

I just know its leaking a little, and its hard to turn and posted my findings

Figured someone on here would be able to help me, someone checking out those pics to tell me if that unit will be ok and isnt damaged would be nice to

[screwinitupagain]

I've only heard of one other person f*cking up there rack & pinion (wwhich I might add is very very tought on these vehicles, trust me) & thats Dean (he goes by XPLOR4X on a couple of other boards). About the only thing to do is replace it if its f*cked. Sorry dude.

I know how you feel in the middle of paying for tuition my engine sh*t-the-bed & since I work 40+ hrs/wk & pay for school in cash outta my own pocket every semester,I could only afford 2 classes (6 hours) this semester.

[longhornsqx4]

Well ya the steering rack itself is FAIRLY cheap @ 250ish to my door used and I MAY be able to do the install myself (probable, Ive got handtools, no extra hands though, and no knowledge of our system and what it would take to pull it out......

Its Im curious whats causing my ****ty steering.... If fixing the leak and flushing the fluids will fix that....... or do I need a new pump aswell... I can even see the freakin pump on our cars form the top, dunno how hard or easy of an install it would be with my limited tools

[nissandoms47]

those pictures of that rack look normal. The way the rack mounts is a clamp that goes over those 2 bushings you see there. Those red things are just to keep debris from entering the inside of the rack. It sounds like you need a new pump and rack to be honest. Your pump is bad cuz you have no power assistance and your rack is bad since its leaking. At least thats what i got out of this. In my white r50 when i first got it forever ago the rack seal went bad and leaked out of the dust boot by the inner tie rod. Its not too bad to replace. (the rack and pump)

[longhornsqx4]

Would it be stupid to just atempt to fix the rack first and try and flush the system? Assuming it may just be clogged with stop leak or the rack may just be the culprit?

Or it is easier to just do it all at once..... keep in mind, im unemployed right now...

[maxnix]

The meridian and maval are probably a better bet.

I bought an improperly stored new OEM one from a baord member and it blew out in 3 months.

The domestic rebuilts can be had for about $400. Use Froogle.com

[maxnix]

bump it for help

No double posting, please!

[longhornsqx4]

Ya I found a few remans for about $500 to my door.

Problem is Im in college and very low on funds, but I obviously need a vehicle.

[Q45tech]

The FSM shows step by step how to disassemble and rebuild a rack.........only a few seals to replace.

[longhornsqx4]

Im not rebuilding the unit, I purchased the unit in the pictures above.

I also purchased a used PS pump from an 04 pathfinder (3.5L)

Im kind of at a loss on how Im going to swap them though, Im going to be trying this myself but cant find any info on them or in the manual on a step by step on how to remove/install and the proper procedures. As Im sure there are lines and other parts that will have to be removed for the rack and pump to be removed...

[qship96]

The meridian and maval are probably a better bet.

I bought a new OEM one from a baord member and it blew out in 3 months.

WOW you are on your THIRD steering rack at such low mileage?

Probobly should have followed my instructions for long rack and pump life.....turkey-baste out the resivour multiple times annually and stay away from using additives {snake-oils} in your Dexron ATF!!!!! I am still on my original rack and pump at 223,000!!!!!

[Kiven422]

The FSM shows step by step how to disassemble and rebuild a rack.........only a few seals to replace.

WOW I did not know that.

[krimsonviper]

zeroforum/37

[oldmako]

Before you get all Cromag with the front end.....insure that your PS belt is not loose.

------------------------My little love black unit has a slightly loose belt which makes low speed turning somewhat problimatical until it warms up. Early AM departures are a bit noisy and sloppy. Once it warms up a bit all is right in my world. When installing a new one, I err on the side of too loose than too tight.

I replaced my belt last winter and now that it's mega cold I have similar symptoms. It's just a tad loose and once it gets some heat under the hood all's well. As soon as I get a reasonably warm day I'll snug it up a bit.

This may be way out of line, but before you tear that mother apart don't overlook the obvious and easy fix.

Of course if you are hosing all your HYD in the parking lot then all bets are off with regard to the rack and what not.

[longhornsqx4]

no my belt is not loose, its brand new and very tight

[maxnix]

WOW you are on your THIRD steering rack at such low mileage?

Original was seeping at mid 90s, changed at 100K, bought a new Nissan one from a board member, but had not been stored well. Blew out both ends one day. aboubt 3 months later. Used it as core for rebuilt Maval unit, which seems good so far with M1 and BG PS conditioner.

TexasOil commented to me in a conversation that ATF used as a PS fluid requires MMO (changed annually) or Some sort of seal conditioner. BG uses theirs when they mechanically exchange PS and fill with their synthetic fluid.

Just for note, turbine sensor went out on my other G50 at 43K even though the ATF had been BG exchanged at 26K. OEM blacks also started seeping at bout same time, about 8 years old.

There are no absolutes no matter what one does.

[qship96]

I have never added a conditioner to redlind D4 atf used in my power steering- so far so good. Wonder if using the Redline designated synthetic power steering fluid would be a better option? Kind of late in the game for me to experiment, but maybe would benefit others with low mile or replaced racks?

Link to specs of Redline P/S fluid http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/8.pdf
Modified by qship96 at 6:18 PM 1/23/2009

[maxnix]

Basically TexasOil said any synthetic ATF would essentially dry the seals and shrink them if no conditioner was used. Only have conditioner in one car now, but will use it in the future.

[jackg35]

i would check the oil pressure first and go from there and make it sure to bleed the system. check your fluid lines too.

[Q45tech]

Same oem rack after 19 years and 321,000 miles on my Q, but I maintain ATF annually.

Only owners/operators/ or mechanics can destroy a rack.

[qship96]

Same oem rack after 19 years and 321,000 miles on my Q, but I maintain ATF annually.

Only owners/operators/ or mechanics can destroy a rack.

Wow, still on original rack!!! Describe your annual procedure to maintain ATF annually?