QX4 PS is SCREWED. Mighta made it worse need help

[W O T]

Alright, Im no mechanic so lets not laugh here lol, this is a 01 QX4

About a month ago I noticed some PS fluid on my driveway, got under the car, and fluid was leaking out of the end of the tie rod boot on the drivers side. Shlt.......



So since I was told the only repair was a complete rack n pinion ($2800 I dont have) I decided I was simply gonna keep filling up the fluid (about 100ml/day) and tr and stop the leak from coming out of the boot by using some stop leak and possibly sealing were it was coming from out of the boot.

SO Ive been filig it with ths valvoline formula with stop leak and conditioner in it, its cheap.

I also put a nice bead of JBweld around the end of the boot and the tierod to seal the fluid in there, worked good, fluid drip went down quite a bit butsome was stil seeping out.

NOW, I notice that even when the fluid is completely full, my steering is still VERY difficult at times, and it catchies you off guard in parkinglots and making turns, but sometimes its completely fine...... unpredictable.

My questions are:

Am i using the right fluid or is there a specific type for our systems?

Since it got cold here in canada, the jbweld doesnt hold, what other bond can I use to secure the boot to the tierod to stop the leak out of that boot?

Heres a pic of the leak pre-jbweld lol

Dont yell at me please for my tactics, Im broke...

[AJRK]

I have no experience with this, but I'd do two things:

1) I'd buy some Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak

2) I'd go to an independent shop and ask them if there's anything they can do

Sorry I can't be of more help...

[Lars]

As I mentioned in my reply to your first post... PS stop leak is a bandaid that I wouldn't use (unless you are going to get rid of the car) because of the potential of it to gum up the whole PS system. My guess is that the Stop Leak in combo with the temps has gummed up your PS system, and now you will probably need to at least flush the system and replace all the fluid along with repair the rack. I'm not sure there is anything you can do to "patch" it any further... Just be prepared when you are driving and try to keep it full of fluid.

Replacing the Rack is not too difficult. But a rebuilt rack will probably run you around $500 and I'd probably allow for a full day if you are not experienced - 1/3 to 1/2 day if you're a bit more than a home mechanic. THOUGH I've never done one on a R50, so ymmv... $2800 sounds a bit high unless they are replacing it with a NEW rack. You may be able to find one in a wrecking yard, but why go through all the work to replace it with a part with an unknown history.

[jimmyzzer]

lars is right 2800 is crazy.a rebuilt rack is 577 from advanced and a new one from nissan is 943.the boot is there to keep dirt out from going in side where the tierod goes in.I would check some other places out for price.Hopefully all the stopleak didnt hurt the power steering pump.

[WINNIPEGS_MOST_WANTED]

In Canada (or at least Winnipeg in my experience) you can expect to pay almost twice what you would in the states.

We get royally screwed on auto parts and electronics.

[jimmyzzer]

all your mechanics up there must be driving bentlys.I found this one says that will ship to canada.http://catalog.autopartsgiant....de=PA

[W O T]

Well yeah i assumed 2800 was high, but i priced out a remanned rack today for $800 and they said a full day of labour, if it was summer id try it myself as im pretty handy, but ive only got a driveway and the current blizzard wont allow for a job this size to go down in the parking lot lol

What i am curious about though is the fluid \ive been using, im thinking it may just be thcker or the wrong stuff in general, the nissan/euopean specific labelled stuff looks to me much more runny/thin than the bottles that arent really specific they just say for make makes and models.....

Im just curious if its worth it for me to flush the system (hopefully theres an easy way to do this) and fill it up with the proper fluid and a little stop leak....

Cause when the leak first started, as long as the tank was full, the power steering was easy and smooth as it always was, now i think that ive fill it with a good 1.5 liters of replacement ****, and it always feel tough until the cars been driven for a while, that it may just be the fluid.....

need some opinions\

thanks guys

[timmack]

yea that 2800 sounds high, i paid 1440 for a new rack, labor, alingment, new outer tie rod ends, flush and refill so call around to a few places. if winnipeg is right about the cost difference being that much, you might be hosed. i dont know that a simple flush and refill will fix it, i dont think that will get the gummed up stop leak out. i know honda has a specific power steering fluid but as far as i know nissan just uses the regular stuff. id try a flush and refill without putting any stop leak in though, you never know.

[timmack]

also call around or check online, that inner boot is probably replaceable. it might be a package deal with the whole inner tie rod but still cheaper than a new rack.

[W O T]

ya but i was told the whole rack still would have to come off to replace the part if by chance i coulda find someone to replace just that seal, which would still cost $500 in labour

looking for a definitive answer on what ps fluid is recomended for out cars, and a best way to flush the system

[bentandbuzzin]

I wouldn't use those lucas products to stop any leak anywhere on a vehicle. I used the transmission stop leak in a vehicle and it worked ok until it got cold outside. Once the temperature dropped the transmission wouldn't shift into any gears until the stop leak warmed up. I have the power steering stop leak in my honda now and it does the same thing. When its warm out the pump works fine but when its cold the stop leak gets so thick that it stops the pump from working and the belts squeals until the stop leak loosens up. But i can say it did stop the power steering leak but this stuff causes more problems when it gets cold out. I would locate a rack in the salvage yard and buy a rebuild kit for it and either replace the seals yourself using a haynes manual for guidance or take the kit and the rack to a mechanic.

[W O T]

anyone know if we have to use the synthetic fluid or not?