IM BACK! Round 2 bishes!!

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
User avatar
Didderson
Posts: 2567
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2006 4:05 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX FB
'88 Nissan Hardbody pickup
'74 Datsun Z
Location: Nor-Phillerdelph
Contact:

Post

Yer water pump pulley is on backwards.It's beginning to seem like whomever put that motor together and in your car was a moron. I hope they didn't touch internals.

woops i didnt read that post ^ LOL. Still man, idk.


User avatar
JoseBronx
Posts: 171
Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:24 am

Post

psh... lucky

j/p nice

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

Didderson wrote:Yer water pump pulley is on backwards.It's beginning to seem like whomever put that motor together and in your car was a moron. I hope they didn't touch internals.

woops i didnt read that post ^ LOL. Still man, idk.
Lol nah we did that when we took off the clutch fan

turns out were not dropping the engine back in tommarow, were waiting till like friday so we can take apart the transmission and check it out, and the guy helping me is gonna do some more stuff with the engine while i prep the engine bay for its re-paint

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

bwahaha i bought my front mount and my bov today!

nothing special, just a cheap BOV to get the job done for now. Same with the front mount, but its not a junk part by any means.

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

So we sprayed the engine bay white at first, then we decided to spray it black. FIgured the engine would stand out niceley, and when i decide to repaint the car another color later down the road, i dont have to worry about it. Weve also stripped most of the interior down, and were painting that black as well



The outside is getting repainted white again for now with rustoleum.

quick question for the engine bay, should i wet sand it now before i spray the clear coat? or is that for after.... or both lol

User avatar
Didderson
Posts: 2567
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2006 4:05 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX FB
'88 Nissan Hardbody pickup
'74 Datsun Z
Location: Nor-Phillerdelph
Contact:

Post

I'm gonna stop dogging you on the internals of your SR now Looks like everything should be fine or better than factory .

People dig my black bay because they say exactly what you are envisioning, it juts makes the engine and piping pop out and hides non necessary things like the wind shield wiper motor I painted black to match and extra wiring (if you don't tuck heh).Looking good. I need to prep for rust prevention before the summer's over too.

As for wet sanding, you're fine to wetsand it now befor you clear, just try to finish with minimum 400 ideally 600 wet paper. Don't start with something harsh I'd start w/ 400 wet. You're not going to want to clear coat sand your engine bay... pretty impossible to reach all the crevices with a buffer, plus the oddball surfaces make it easy to burn the paint off.

You probably don't even need to wetsand at all, only the areas you made runs on though.

User avatar
spooled240
Posts: 6487
Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
Car: kouki s14

Post

most likely the internals are untouched, there's no reason that they would be unless they did a bottom end rebuild/overhaul.

Just to be safe, I would turn the motor manually and see if the pistons are gonna contact and valves tho, always a good thing to do before you drop the engine in.

I hope it runs good, i'd hate to see a blown sr in that nice engine bay but i think you'll be fine

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

What im wondering is would i need high temp clear coat for the engine bay or would just normal clear coat work fine?

we turned the engine manually and its fine. Once the cars up and running, for the first 2 weeks i gotta baby it to break the motor in. Im still missing a few parts before i can get the car running tho, little things like the thermostat, the coolant inlet pipe, the ignitor chip, and some other random stuff

User avatar
spooled240
Posts: 6487
Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:45 pm
Car: kouki s14

Post

people paint their engine bays with the same clear coat that is on the rest of the car with no problems so I would imagine that normal clear coat would be fine, but high temp clear wouldn't hurt.

so the engine was completely rebuilt? I thought it just had all the gaskets changed.

User avatar
Didderson
Posts: 2567
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2006 4:05 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX FB
'88 Nissan Hardbody pickup
'74 Datsun Z
Location: Nor-Phillerdelph
Contact:

Post

My old s13 had a 3 stage paint job in the bay, I used the usual acrylic lacquer paint clear coat and never saw any heat problems. I mean the heat from your engine to the back of the hood (on an oem paint) doesn't crack or fade due to the engine, so this is no different as long as you use an automotive grade clear. None of that home depot crap for furniture lol

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

Its not 100% rebuilt, but the pistons were resurfaced at a machine shop and some other little stuff and was put together well

and holy balls stage 3 in an engine bay sounds sick! What i plan on doing is just getting some cheap high temp clear coat at discount auto after i spray another coat or two of high gloss rustoleum and getting the engine bay looking fresh.

Later down the road im gonna get the valve cover powder coated a dark blue-ish purple which is gonna match the purple radiator hoses im getting which should look sweet in the black engine bay. And eventually when i get the car professional repainted, the actual car is gunna be that dark metallic blue-ish purple with the black roof and some nice wheels.

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

Began sanding and primering on sunday as well as giving the engine bay a 3rd coat



and we hit the other side (well most of it atleast) today

Im gonna go ahead and see if i can finish up the primer and start spraying the paint either tommarow or the next day

ive been doing all this in my driveway, but i think for the actual paint, i dont want all the wind and dust and s*** to hit it while its drying, so i think id rather be doing it in my garage since were moving out of this house on saturday and the garage will be pretty much open if i decide to wait and do it in there.

any tips of making the car paint come out nice greatly appreciated. This is my first time attempting any of this

User avatar
Didderson
Posts: 2567
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2006 4:05 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX FB
'88 Nissan Hardbody pickup
'74 Datsun Z
Location: Nor-Phillerdelph
Contact:

Post

Sweet update man. Your car can be a poster girl for Jimmy UP with that umbrella!Tips for painting:You're going to have to use both hands most likely, so you may have to practice w the left hand for some places.-Wet the floor before spraying to help keep dust from flying around as you walk etc.-Uuuh, get a real paint mask. Life saver.-Don't wear baggy clothes like u be slangin' yo.-Keep running the air when you back off the trigger from ending a paint line going to the next.Biggest one is only use paint when you've pressed the air trigger down for at least 1 sec before paint trigger (farther down if using a real gun).Ok I lied, biggest thing is to remember to start moving before you spray paint, and keep moving following through after you let go of spraying too. Don't want to stay in one spot longer than the last or you could end up with runs, hence keep moving.-On top of that, try to keep the gun perpendicular to the workpiece. Like don't just sit in one spot and spin your wrist of you'll get uneven coverage.-Buy a tack cloth and go over the car before spraying color and then again before clear. Just run it over the car like you're lightly wiping it after a car wash.

Um overlap coats? You kinda have to be there and look at it to see how much overlap you need.I'm unsure of the length away from the paint piece you need because everyones settings are different. Just practice. probably around 8-10 inches is my guess.

Might get some advice from ppl who have done it more recently, but this is a start lol.

BTW nice sand job on the front bumper.
Modified by Didderson at 9:46 PM 8/12/2009

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

Didderson wrote:-Uuuh, get a real paint mask. Life saver.-Keep running the air when you back off the trigger from ending a paint line going to the next.Biggest one is only use paint when you've pressed the air trigger down for at least 1 sec before paint trigger (farther down if using a real gun).Ok I lied, biggest thing is to remember to start moving before you spray paint, and keep moving following through after you let go of spraying too. -Buy a tack cloth and go over the car before spraying color and then again before clear. Just run it over the car like you're lightly wiping it after a car wash.

Um overlap coats? You kinda have to be there and look at it to see how much overlap you need.

BTW nice sand job on the front bumper.
Sweet thanks bro, just a few questions.

Where could i buy a paint mask and a "tack cloth" for cheap? They sell em at like walmart or advanced auto? What exactly is a tack cloth anyways lol

What do you mean by "keep the running air when you back off the trigger from one line to the next"Like keep the trigger halfway down so air is still coming out of the can?

And lastly, what are overlap coats? Just basically the second coat and third coat? and any coat that overlaps another?

Thanks in advance to anybody who contributes lol


Return to “240sx General Discussion”