ignition switch signal fuseable link short

[J.P. Pascale]

hello i searched on the forums and found that a couple people ran into this exact same problem, although it did not say how it was fixed i was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction with this.Whenever i turn the key to the on position it will blow the fuse, the first time it happend i found the blown fuse and replaced it and it was fine, then i drove it for a while and went to start it since then and it just keeps blowing them out, i elliminated a few things today this ignition switch is good and i traced the one white wire that comes from behind the fuse directly to power on the battery ,and there is another white wire that comes from the back of the fuse that goes into the loom i didn't trace the one in the loom yet but i made sure the one going to the battery is good.ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED THANKS -J.P.

[vancouverbc]

I guess you are talking about the 30 amp green fusible link. When you turn key to "on" position(not start), you are bringing the ignition coil into the circuit. Try disconnecting the ignition coil. Same with ignition relay. I guess the fusible link is too expensive to do this by trial and error, though. Trace the short with multimeter if you know how.

the12volt.com might help you.

[vancouverbc]

zerothread?id=185846

i posted a pic of ignition switch and relay in the above thread. follow the wire that comes out of connection 3 on ignition switch.

[J.P. Pascale]

hey okay i looked at the diagram and i was wondering which relay to disconnect there is two blue ones by the driver kick panel is it the top one or the lower one and by dissconnecting the coil do you mean to dissconnect the ignitor chip b4 or after the chip ?

[vancouverbc]

I think people go to a mechanic at this point and dont report back on the result. I had a sprint along time ago and I went to a mechanic because I had a similar problem. He told me to buy a new ignition coil or otherwise it would cost alot to find the problem. In my case, it turned out to be ignition coil. The short was right inside the coil.

If you have power windows, your ignition relay will be brown and you are looking in the right place. If you dont have power windows, the relay will be blue. There is a diagram at the very end of the following thread that might help a bit:

zerothread?id=140879

[J.P. Pascale]

okay i am going to do some more work this week on it and if i can't find it i am going to bring tow it to the mechanic that did the work but thanks for helpin me out that diagram is awsome compared to the fsm i had lol i found all the wires and i am going to take the dash board off just so it's easier to trace i am already half way there then i will test the relays and wires for continuity and resistance thanks for your help man you def put me on the right track i will post if i find the problem so that others that have this can have another good place to target there short thanks ttyl

[vancouverbc]

Thanks:) It will be interesting to find out how it works out.

[J.P. Pascale]

okay today i did some more tests on the car and found that when i tested the red and black wire that comes from the ignition switch i traced it to the harness right next to the relay box and and tested it and got a reading of 11.7 ohms i tried the opposite side of connector and it read 0 ohms for same wire and by the igition switch it self it read 0 but on this side of the harness it reaD 11.7 OHMS IS THIS UNUSUAL i will add a pic also the battery was dissconnected i am going to by a self reseting circuit breaker and see what part of harness is blowing it out by un plugging all that are in the circuit leave the car key in the on position and start pluging in until i trip the breaker.... i have decided to do this myself if i just give it to a mechanic i don't learn anything from it...i will win lol her is the pics i have of the harness that got 11.7 ohmslet me know what you think vancover thanks

[vancouverbc]

Sounds like you have the curiosity to figure this out. 11.7 ohms would indicate you found the problem. You should be able to narrow it down to exactly where the problem is to be certain. The black-red wire is the right wire to be testing.

[J.P. Pascale]

hey vancover should i start removing the tape befor that connector and looking for the ground from there?

[J.P. Pascale]

ok i started taking the electricle tape off and noticed that the black and red wire is spliced with a blue and red wire i tested the blue and red wire fron the ignition switch and now i had 28 ohms after the ignition switch now im not sure where to look lol i guess i should just trace both of those till i find something grounding let me kow what you think

[vancouverbc]

ok i started taking the electricle tape off and noticed that the black and red wire is spliced with a blue and red wire i tested the blue and red wire fron the ignition switch and now i had 28 ohms after the ignition switch now im not sure where to look lol i guess i should just trace both of those till i find something grounding let me kow what you think

I dont know what you mean by splice. You mean someone connectedthe wires after the car was manufactured? If the blue wire is the accessorywire from ignition switch it should not be connected to black-red wire.

I dont have any experience tracing shorts and I have not seen anypractical detailed instructions on how to do it. I would try to isolatewhere the resistance is coming from, testing the wires for continuity at various spots with battery disconnected. Or, test for voltage drop while thewire is hot.

[J.P. Pascale]

ok i took the dash board off now i will definatly find that wire lol the splice is actually not to the blue one from the ignition switch this one is red and blue so i will trace both the red and blue and the red and black now but i am wondering if it is just the white wire grounding out that goes to the green fusable link that keeps blowing cause the red and black just goes to a 10amp fuse but i will post more as i trace the wires thanks vancover

[J.P. Pascale]

ok i trced the red and black wire and that goes right to the ignitor chip and i got 11.7 ohms at the harness for the chip too so i don't think that 's the wire cause all the wires going to the ignitor chip had 11.7 ohms i think the wire that will be my problem is the white wire going to the fuse that is blowing out so i think i can eliminate the red and black and now move on to the white wire

[vancouverbc]

The white wire from the green fuse link to the ignition switch is a possiblity.The white wire from the battery to the green fuse link would have fried several fuses. Wires at connectors and relays can come loose and are hard to see.

[J.P. Pascale]

alright i found the short!!!!!! car runs fine now after i took the dash off and the entire interior i found it under the hood looks like the guy who i bought the car from 3 years ago drilled two self tapping srews right into the harness loom to attach the adjustable thermostat for the electric fans so i repaired the white wire that went to the fuse that kept blowing cause the srew damaged that one the worst then i repaired 5 other wires i am just surprised this didn't happen when he first drilled three years ago it's amazing that it worked lol well all said and done i learned alot from this and feel confident that i will never have to bring my car to a mechanic again lol but thanks for all your guys help especially andrew desha and vancover!!! thanks man now we are both ready for the season. oh yes there will be bumpers flying everywhere lol__________________

[vancouverbc]

Thanks for reporting back. People inadvertently cutting wires seems to bea common source of shorts. I didnt think it would be the white wire from the battery to fuse because it went to two fuses that were parallel to each other. I thought both fuses would blow if they were parallel.