Ignition breakup under boost.. knock sensor, maf???

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
Stripes
Posts: 843
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:24 pm
Car: hatch, coupe
Contact:

Post

Hello nico :]I've got an sr with cusco mounts, nismo transmission mount and a straight exhaust. For quite some time now, the car seems to be having a lot of what seems like ignition breakup when pulling under boost in a straight line. It doesn't do it all the time, but enough to where the power is not at all consistent from pull to pull. I have noticed that if I am cruising in 5th and I drop down to 4th or 3rd and give it gas it does it more often, and also happens more frequently as the motor gets hotter. Cold start and idle temps it pulls like a bat out of hell. It never does it when drifting however, which it what really confuses me.I've replaced my plugs several times to see if it helps and have tried a couple different gap settings, the most recent one being whatever the smallest the gauge would let me go (.025 i think??) and it hasn't helped yet.I remember reading a thread on ziptied about how the stock sensors are garbage when it comes to aftermarket mounts and the like, and there is a way to bypass it by looping a 1M ohm resistor at the female connectors on the knock sensor plug. However, I don't know that a knock sensor getting high readings from vibrations would cause the motor to run goofy like this. Could it be the MAF or something else??Anyway, before I go about messing with anything or buying a new knock sensor I wanted to hear some peoples input. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!


User avatar
IanS
Posts: 9758
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

I would check your coil packs.

Pull the boots off the bottoms of the coil packs and check for hairline cracks, or carbon tracking.

The plastic on coil on plug packs gets heated up so much it gets brittle. Tiny crack can appear, which allows spark to jump out. It tends to get worse as RPMs increase, due to the increase in energy.

A bad knock sensor will usually cause a smooth pull back of power, not a miss.

Have you tried resetting base timing?

User avatar
Stripes
Posts: 843
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:24 pm
Car: hatch, coupe
Contact:

Post

I thought about the coil packs, but I figured it would happen ALL the time if that were the issue and I wanted to try and eliminate other possibilities before dropping $70 per coil.Timing is on point, and if it was off wouldn't it always run goofy and not just every now and then?Thank you much for your input.

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 9758
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

Stripes wrote:I thought about the coil packs, but I figured it would happen ALL the time if that were the issue and I wanted to try and eliminate other possibilities before dropping $70 per coil.Timing is on point, and if it was off wouldn't it always run goofy and not just every now and then?Thank you much for your input.
Try checking the packs. Look really close, the cracks can be hard to see. I had the EXACT same symptoms with my redtop. I dealt with it for 2 months, I checked tons of stuff. Then one night while checking my plug gaps for the 11th time my buddy Cale pulled the plug boot off the coil and was like hey, its cracked.

I wrapped all the coils protrusions with electrical tape, and it was fixed. I bought new coils shortly after, and never had the problem again.

User avatar
Stripes
Posts: 843
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:24 pm
Car: hatch, coupe
Contact:

Post

I never knew you could separate the boots from the rest of the coil. I will definitely check for this tonight and hopefully my case is simalar to yours. Thanks


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”