Ideas on oil pan turbo drain

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spank044
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 3:56 am
Car: 1992 240sx with a Supercharged 350Z VQ for a HEART!

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Since it is a dd then you should use steel, because like 480sx said vibrations and heat cycles can cause the aluminum to crack. Plus steel is really cheap right now with the metal prices so low and it has more rigidity.


oz240red
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Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 3:54 pm
Car: 95 T3/T4 KA-T

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Good point... I'll do steel. Since I lowered the car, the ride is a little bit rougher than normal and vibrations will definitely be a factor.

I'll do some more work tomorrow morning. It has been crazy at work and we also have to be there on friday, but it's all good, considering how many people have lost their gig lately.

You all enjoy your turkey day tomorrow

oz240red
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Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 3:54 pm
Car: 95 T3/T4 KA-T

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Taking advantage of being off for turkey day, I was able to take off the oil pan and take it to my brother's house, where we welded the bong.



special thanks to S13FX for the tip on how to take out the pan without removing the engine. It worked perfect, the only additional thing I did was to loosen both screws for the oil pickup, then take one of the bolts out and rotate it a little so it allows the pan to come out.

I should have it back on tomorrow morning, then comes the feed oil line, and finish mounting the I/C.

oz240red
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Car: 95 T3/T4 KA-T

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I think I welded the bong a little too high and it's too close to the AC compressor bracket. You can't get the hose in there. I'm going to grind the bracket a little...

Question: when you install the turbo and the oil feed line, do you have to prime them or will the turbo be ok those few seconds that the oil feed line is empty?

kouki_hmongster
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Car: Want 97 kouki

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oz240red wrote:I think I welded the bong a little too high and it's too close to the AC compressor bracket. You can't get the hose in there. I'm going to grind the bracket a little...

Question: when you install the turbo and the oil feed line, do you have to prime them or will the turbo be ok those few seconds that the oil feed line is empty?
as long as it doesnt hit anything then you should be fine. i think you should of tilt the bung a little bit upward but as long as it isnt pointing downward when on the car. FOr the oil primin part, you wouldnt need to worry about it, the oil pump will pump oil through it just as long as you let your engine warm up then you shouldnt have any problem. i think whenver the motor turns on the pump will pump oil through it right away.

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480sx
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Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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oz240red wrote:you install the turbo and the oil feed line, do you have to prime them or will the turbo be ok those few seconds that the oil feed line is empty?
Just prime the oiling system by cranking the motor with the injectors unplugged for 10-15 seconds. Then plug the injectors back in and start it up.

oz240red
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Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 3:54 pm
Car: 95 T3/T4 KA-T

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Thanks guys. 480sx, that's a good idea.

I'll be doing that as soon as I find a manual s14 brake booster. I'm having clearance issues with turbine side of the turbo and MBCyl because I have the automatic brake booster which is thicker.

I found in another thread that the S13 brake boosters fill fit too. (S14's are harder to find in the junk yard).

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Ozzie
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oz240red wrote: yeah I'm ozzie, but where do i know you from bro? (sorry, i'm pretty bad with names)
I think he meant me.....

oz240red
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Car: 95 T3/T4 KA-T

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lol.... you are in Australia man?

jmac636
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 10:03 am
Car: s14 zenki 240sx

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Here's an idea for the oil drain. Before pulling the oil pan make a mark behind the a/c compressor on the oil pan to mark the front to back location. Now pull the pan from the car and clean the pan out. Put four quarts of liquid (water)in the pan to see where the fluid level will be. Make a cross mark where the level meets with the mark made earlier behind compressor. Now you can purchase a 5/8" steel pipe from the hardware store(threaded pipe in hardware section). Drill your hole and weld the pipe on at an upward angle maybe 30 degrees. Buy some 5/8" automotive hose and a couple 5/8" hose clamps and your one step closer to being boosted. I started and finshed my S14 ka-t project over th thanksgiving weekend. It's running great on a Jwt tuned ecu, Sr t25,370cc etc. on 6psi of boost. Do yourself a favor and plan to recirculate your bov between the maf and turbo inlet. Hope this helps someone.

oz240red
Posts: 199
Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 3:54 pm
Car: 95 T3/T4 KA-T

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jmac636 wrote:I started and finshed my S14 ka-t project over th thanksgiving weekend. It's running great on a Jwt tuned ecu, Sr t25,370cc etc. on 6psi of boost. Do yourself a favor and plan to recirculate your bov between the maf and turbo inlet. Hope this helps someone.
wow that's fast man. How does the car feel in comparison to NA? any issues with the clutch slipping at that HP?

I'm more of a slowpo but I'll get there.

I'll keep in mind what you said about the BOV. by the way, what did you do about the EGR tube? (my turbo manifold doesn't align with the EGR tube)

turbonola
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Car: 91 240sx coupe

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oz240red wrote: what did you do about the EGR tube? (my turbo manifold doesn't align with the EGR tube)
most folks block them off

oz240red
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yeah, I was reading that thread. But I didn't understand exactly if removing the butterflies is a must or not. I guess if the default position of the butterfiles if wide open then they can stay, but if not, then I see the problem if they are loose.

Don't know for sure though. Maybe someone can chime in.

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Ozzie
Posts: 3780
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 12:36 pm
Car: '90 Nissan 300ZX twin turbo - 2 seater
'99 Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S twin turbo
'71 TA22 Toyota Celica (flat light)
'06 MK5 Golf tdi
and some motorbikes too
Location: Australia

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oz240red wrote:lol.... you are in Australia man?
My whole life.... yes


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