Ideas on oil pan turbo drain

[oz240red]

Hey guys, Im about to start my KA-T project and though I'd tackle down the part I feel less comfortable with.

I want to tap the oil pan and wanted to know what you guys with KA-T had done regarding this.

I already took out the engine a few months ago to fix a bad oil pan gasket and front and rear main seals leaking. (I wish I had decided to go KA-T back then). So I don't want to take it out again.

I know there are some very creative people here, so I wanted to pick your brains on what you had done to make your oil drains for your turbos and what materials you used to create a seal.

thanks

[Chris28]

Basically you need to weld a return bung into the pan on the turbo side. Buy the JGS oil line kit for whatever turbo you will be running, it comes with everything you need.

[480sx]

Hey guys, Im about to start my KA-T project and though I'd tackle down the part I feel less comfortable with.

I want to tap the oil pan and wanted to know what you guys with KA-T had done regarding this.

I already took out the engine a few months ago to fix a bad oil pan gasket and front and rear main seals leaking. (I wish I had decided to go KA-T back then). So I don't want to take it out again.

I know there are some very creative people here, so I wanted to pick your brains on what you had done to make your oil drains for your turbos and what materials you used to create a seal.

To level with you, you want to do a half assed job and are wondering how to go about doing it.

First, you can take the oil pan off without pulling the motor, its not THAT difficult. If you do this you will be doing it right and will never have any problems out of it. Seriously, do yourself a favor and just to this right the first time.

If your dead set of half assin it, take the right sized drill bit and cover it with vasoline. The idea here is that the metal shavings will stick to the vasoline when you drill through the pan. Its not going to be perfect and you most likely will still get metal into your oil pan.

Or you could rig up some crazy way to pressurize your crank case(under 5 psi) while your drilling( ). It will blow the shavings out instead of letting them fall in. You do kinda the same thing when you drill into your exhaust manifold for a EGT probe.

After you do all this, you will then be stuck with little to no option other than to JB weld your bung to the oil pan. This sucks for obvious reasons. If you do this, take a piece of sandpaper(next to your open oil pan..) and rough up the surfaces and remove the paint from them. Do the same to the bung. This will make sure that the JB has something to stick to.

[240sxvaj]

If you dont want to go out searching for parts then just buy the jgs oil line kit. or if you have time then you can go out to homedepot and search for parts. honestly it's cheaper to buy from HD or some hose place than buying from jgs. just remember that the oil return line must be bigger than the oil feed line. i dont know the exact size for everything, but for sure it's been covered sooo many times just use SEARCH.

[NizzmoS13]

Really you should just take off the pan and weld in the bung, I think its the only real way to do it right, and it doesn't take to long to take it off.

[krazydriver]

I took my pan off, drilled the hole then used an 10-AN bulkhead fitting.

It goes through the pan and bolts tight on both sides, little bit of silicon sandwiched in between and i don't have any leaks.

[oz240red]

To level with you, you want to do a half assed job and are wondering how to go about doing it.

You got me there

Yeah, there's no substitute for welding...

Just wanted to see if tapping had been an option taken by some members. I found a really good write up in a mustang website, showing how to tap the oil pan without drilling. (using grease on the flutes of the tap tool to keep the oil shavings from falling in, then changing the oil.) but I guess nothing replaces doing it right the first time like you guys say.

I guess another reason for taking the engine out again is to change the clutch and rear main seal. What clutch would you guys recommend for 7-10psi on a t3/t4? (it's my daily driver so I don't want anything too drastic)

[NizzmoS13]

I guess another reason for taking the engine out again is to change the clutch and rear main seal. What clutch would you guys recommend for 7-10psi on a t3/t4? (it's my daily driver so I don't want anything too drastic)

I use the ACT Xtreme Street clutch, perfect for daily driving, rated for around 333ft/LBS but I have heard that Act under-rates there clutches and that it should be good for 400ft/LBS, guess will see once a bump up the boost.

[neverlift]

this you ozi?

I all but drilled a hole, then beat with a punch through said almost hole, used 45 fitting and jb weld, it is weak as ****, but works great, when I pull the motor in a week or so I'll use my other oil pan and make a solid drain...

[WDRacing]

If you don't wanna do it the right way, then use a shurflo pump, can't remember the number, and route it back to the valve cover cap. Real easy, works pretty well and it keeps you from F'in up the pan. The worst thing to happen is that it backs up and leaks past your aft seal. Which is remedied by using the correct pump. Should cost about $120 IIRC.

[oz240red]

well you know what guys... I'll take the advice and just do it the right way the first time.

it's like somebody said in another post, impatience will lead to a blown engine. I'll just keep on driving my 4-cyl 5spd Rodeo a little longer

Thanks to you all for chiming in, and also for the clutch advice.

neverlift, yeah I'm ozzie, but where do i know you from bro? (sorry, i'm pretty bad with names)

[bruinbear714]

Hey guys, Im about to start my KA-T project and though I'd tackle down the part I feel less comfortable with.

I want to tap the oil pan and wanted to know what you guys with KA-T had done regarding this.

I already took out the engine a few months ago to fix a bad oil pan gasket and front and rear main seals leaking. (I wish I had decided to go KA-T back then). So I don't want to take it out again.

I know there are some very creative people here, so I wanted to pick your brains on what you had done to make your oil drains for your turbos and what materials you used to create a seal.

thanks

I got another pan and welded on an AN fitting as high on the pan as possible between the AC compressor and motor mount area (when viewed with pan on motor).

[spank044]

I drilled and tapped the block with a 3/4" pipe tap and used -10 an fittings.

[WDRacing]

I drilled and tapped the block with a 3/4" pipe tap and used -10 an fittings.

LIES

[S13FX]

Man do this **** right.

Just unbolt the damn engine mounts and the transmission mount thing on the bottom, and either jack the engine up with a jack where it meets with the transmission or use a engine lift to raise it a bit.

Un bolt the oil pan and take it out if you do it just like that it will clear the cross member no problem. First time I did it took me all about 35 minutes to take the oil pan out. only ***** is unbolting the oil pick up line and then bolting it back up.

Oh and a friendly tip don't use no gasket felpro bull**** just normal high temp gasket maker.

[spank044]

LIES

Jealous Mod!

Never had a problem with flow issues either.

[oz240red]

Just unbolt the damn engine mounts and the transmission mount thing on the bottom, and either jack the engine up with a jack where it meets with the transmission or use a engine lift to raise it a bit.

Un bolt the oil pan and take it out if you do it just like that it will clear the cross member no problem. QUOTE]

S13FX, when you did this you also removed the driveshaft?

Also, did you have to disconnect any lines or any part of the harness when lifting the engine to get enough clearance?

Jealous Mod!

LOL

You must have done this with the block off the car right?

[S13FX]

Nope drive shaft stayed connected, I didn't disconnect any wiring. Like I said you just need to lift it up a couple inches.

how ever I just remembered you have to take apart your shifter cause when your going to be lifting the shifter will try to go up too.

But all you have to do is lift enough for the transmission to touch the top of the transmission tunnel.

[480sx]

Jealous Mod!

Never had a problem with flow issues either.

Kinda surprised you havnt had any issues your oil lines and fittings are really small.

Still a kinda neat idea, HOWEVER.. Drilling a hole into your fvkin block over drilling into your oil pan?! Count me out on that one heh.

[oz240red]

Nope drive shaft stayed connected, I didn't disconnect any wiring. Like I said you just need to lift it up a couple inches.

how ever I just remembered you have to take apart your shifter cause when your going to be lifting the shifter will try to go up too.

But all you have to do is lift enough for the transmission to touch the top of the transmission tunnel.

Sir, this is very valuable info

Thanks to all for helping out. I wish everyone a happy turkey day

It's a beautiful saturday morning right now, so i'm going to start working on this right away, (besides, the beer is already cold...)

Last day for my 240 as an N/A

Modified by oz240red at 12:17 PM 11/22/2008

Modified by oz240red at 12:25 PM 11/22/2008

[Razi]

Good luck!!!!

[spank044]

Oz, it was done when I was rebuilding the engine, it now handles 18psi daily and 27 at the track.

480sx, those fittings and ss hose are 1/2 inch inner diameter. The fitting require a 1" wrench and the ss line are 1 1/16". So they just look small in the pic.

Good luck with the project OP and do it how you want to and mostly how you feel comfortable. If you need a bung welded on don't hesitate to walk up to any body or machine shop and ask. Before i learned to tig that is what I did and most of the time you can find a car guy that will do it for free.

[onosqv]

Oh and a friendly tip don't use no gasket felpro bull**** just normal high temp gasket maker.

My felpro gasket bull**** has been holding up fine this past year w/ plenty of hard driving...

[oz240red]

Oz, it was done when I was rebuilding the engine, it now handles 18psi daily and 27 at the track.

that's awesome man!

Taking advantage of the awesome weather I was able to strip the front, but I got stuck on the part where you have to cut the bumper. I need to borrow a grinder from by brother...





I'll need to fabricate some kind of brackets to hold the I/C. I bought it used, so I didn't get them. First, I guess it's better to cut the bumper to know the height the IC needs to be at and then figure out what kind of brackets it needs.

[WDRacing]

Keep up the good work man...it'll pay off in the end.

WD

[spank044]

For the IC bracket I used some 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep 1/16" c channel and bent it so I had one long piece from the top rad support to the bottom. It also it the bracket for the front bumper on the top. But on my IC the bracket are welded on the side and it is an s13. It appears that if you got a deep piece of 90 degree angle and bolted it on the rad support and the other to the Ic then it would be very simple.

[oz240red]

Keep up the good work man...it'll pay off in the end.

WD

Thanks man.

It appears that if you got a deep piece of 90 degree angle and bolted it on the rad support and the other to the Ic then it would be very simple.

hmm, yeah, that seems like the best way to go. I just have to make them wide enough to make the holes offset, because the radiator support beams where the horns go bolted on don't align with the I/C holes.

Do you think aluminum is fine to make the brackets or do they have to be steel?

[480sx]

You really should use steel. Over time bumps and vibrations are going to bend or break alum unless you use really thick stuff.

[thagremlin]

i had a -10 fitting cut into the oil pan and welded inside and outside..

[thagremlin]

also i read somewhere that the ideal spot would be about 1 inch down and 3 inchs from the front of the oil pan