idea for system

[nvrplzd240]

ok, ive been lookin around lately to plan for my system, and have come up with the following. Please guys, give me your opinions, what you'd do different and why, or if my ideas are just insane...

HU: Kenwood Excelon kvt-815dvd (already bought)

Processor: Audiocontrol Matrix Line Driver

Front Speakers: MbQuart DUA 213 5.25inch component set + MB Quart DKE 108

Rear Speakers: MbQuart DUA 213 5.25inch component set + MB Quart DKE-169

Subs: Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" (2)

Highs/Mids Amp: Pioneer Premier PRS-D4000F 1200W 4-Channel Car Amplifier + Pioneer Premier GM-6150F 4-Channel 600 Watts Power Amplifier**Not sure about this catagory fellas, gimme some help**

Sub Amp: PRECISION POWER PCX-2400 2- CH AMPLIFER (2X800 WATTS BRIDGED)

last but not least, some serious sound dampening

subs would be in ported box, built to manufacturers reccomendations. I was hoping on powering both subs off of the Precision Power amp.. which subs should i get, the dual 2 ohm, or dual 4 ohm?

As i previously stated, these are just my plans for the future.. and i wanted to see what you guys think/recommend.

Thanks

[Simmsled]

Nice. I would recommend the PC2600(chrome) or PC2100(dark grey) they are essentially the same amp. NOT the PCX tho. PCX is a DEI (directed electronics inc) product. DEI went around and bought out the "big 3" of competition car audio companies: Precision Power, ADS, and Orion. Anything produced by Precision Power after 1999 (2000+) is not anywhere near as good as what they produced before 2000. Any Art Series amp is perfect, or any Powerclass amp "PC" designation that did not end in (.2). ((NOTE... the Art series did have .2 designation and they are the strongest of the Art series amps produced for only one year, 1997.)) The PCX is not the US built stuff. Ebay is the place to find the used PPI stuff. Here is a list of medium to higher power amps that would be perfect if you can get a hold of them. Moreover, would be perfect for ANYONE to get a hold of. Be sure that they have the speaker and power plugs and you will be in business.

Precision PowerArt Series (white with "art" on it)Ax404.2A404.2A404A600.2A600A300.2A300PowerclassPC450 (dark grey)PC4400 (chrome)PC2100 (dark grey)PC2400 (chrome)PC2600 (chrome)PC275 (dark grey)

Look to pay from 175 to 250 for a good 4 channel, and from 200 to 300 for a good 2 channel. If the amps are in very good condition... you could be paying 350+.

Nice setup tho bro. If you can find PPI amps, Orion, ADS, Audison, Phoenix Gold, US Amps, Denon, or McIntosh (McIntosh very expensive)... they are some of the very best ever produced.

Great start man. Great start.

[joe603]

I've always thought of Precision power as "cheap" amps... Do they abide by the new CEA-2006 standard? If not, then you may want to look at other amps. I had a PPI amp, and it was a total dog compaired to a Rockford Fosgate amp with the same power rating.

[Simmsled]

Precision Power, from the year 2000 on ARE cheap. The ones made prior to 2000 are incredible. Which PPI did you have?

[slinger5150]

The MBQuarts are incredibly crisp sounding. I used to be a Kicker Dealer, so I love there amps. Weather to go with 2 or 4 ohm speakers depends on how low you can bridge your amp. If its bridgeable to only 2 ohms then buy 2 4ohm subs. If its bridgeable to 1 ohm than buy 2 2ohm subs. Great call on the sound deadening. You'll be suprised at how much of a difference in clarity that makes.Chris

[Simmsled]

Ditto the sound dampening. Yah slinger, the Kicker ZR amps were/are sweet. I had some of that stuff back in the day and loved it. We actually converted one of the old ZR heatsinks into a grill. We cooked hamburgers on an old ZR-1000! good times.

[slinger5150]

I've got a ZR1000 amp sitting in my garage, waiting anxiously to go into my Q.

[nvrplzd240]

ok guys.. looking for a good amp to push the two IDMAX subs..id like to supply each with around 800 watts

help me choose between these... or suggest morei would have two of the amps.. one for each sub

Phoenix Gold R15.0:1600 watts 1-4 ohmshttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com...12983

Kenwood Excelon KAC-X812D# 1600 Watts MAX output# 1 x 533 Watts RMS @ 4 ohms CEA-2006 rating# 1 x 919 Watts RMS @ 2 ohms CEA-2006 ratinghttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com...16895

Kicker 06ZX750.1# RMS Power: 750W x 1 @ 2 ohms# RMS Power: 375W x 1 @ 4 ohmshttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com...16918

MTX TA7801400 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms800 watts x 1 at 2 ohms1,200 watts x 1 at 1 ohmhttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com...15178

Alpine MRD-M1005# 500W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)# 700W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)# 700W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)# 1.000W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...14926

i cant find any info on PPI amps right now, and they seem to be hard to find im interested in the kenwood amp because i could control all the perimeters of it on my HU which seems pretty nifty.. show me the light tho guys.. is that over-rated?

your help thus far is greatly appreciated keep it comin!

[joe603]

Precision Power, from the year 2000 on ARE cheap. The ones made prior to 2000 are incredible. Which PPI did you have?

I had one in my first system...back in 1994! Don't remember the model.

[PoorManQ45]

I would get rid of the rear components. That's a waste of money.

And I would only use one sub. With two you're more then likely going to overpower the rest of the frequency range(it's possible to tune it to match, but still, that's basically wasting the second driver).

[PoorManQ45]

Also note: Don't ever build a box to the manufacture's specs. I have yet to see one that gives even a decent frequency response.

Go download WinISD. It's free. Most of the image dynamics drivers are already loaded into it. Selected a ported box. Quasi-alignment. That'll give you a good starting point. Tweak the size and tuning frequency to your liking. For a car there's no need to tune below 30hz.

The manufacture's specs will work, but you can do much better yourself.

OH, for the sub amps i'd recommend that you look at hifonics. They offer4 a great bang for the buck

[nvrplzd240]

I would get rid of the rear components. That's a waste of money.

And I would only use one sub. With two you're more then likely going to overpower the rest of the frequency range(it's possible to tune it to match, but still, that's basically wasting the second driver).

rear components are GONE.. thanks!

im pretty set on two subs, but i see where your coming fromI'll have to take a look into hifonics ampso, and about WinISD, i already have it but its so complicated that i havent played with it very much

keep 'em comin guys
Modified by nvrplzd240 at 2:25 PM 6/21/2006

[nvrplzd240]

keep 'em comin guys

buuump.. help me decide on sub amps

[PoorManQ45]

im pretty set on two subs, but i see where your coming fromI'll have to take a look into hifonics ampso, and about WinISD, i already have it but its so complicated that i havent played with it very much

You said this was a system you'll be building in the future, correct?

So you could probably wait a few days until I get home? Then i'll use WinISD to figure a nice box for you.

For the sub amp:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...D=613

That should take you to http://www.onlinecarstereo.com with the results filtered to mono amp, hifonics.

If not filter it yourself.

Note: that place isn't always the cheapest. What I like to do is copy the model and brand and paste it into google. See what their "froogle" site comes up with.

[nvrplzd240]

thanks man for all that youve helped me with.. and if you could design a box... id really appreciate it. Yes, it is for the future.. prob about a year or so away but i like to plan ahead.. (i guess its just a curse that some mean witch cast upon me when i was younger)

thanks again.. and i think for my sub amp im gonna go with the Hifonics BXi 1206D- id get two and wire each sub into one as 2ohm to get 900 watts a piece.. RMS @ 2-Ohm: 1 x 900-Watt

i know that they're not the cheapest.. but they help me organize my plans since they carry most everything

[PoorManQ45]

thanks again.. and i think for my sub amp im gonna go with the Hifonics BXi 1206D- id get two and wire each sub into one as 2ohm to get 900 watts a piece.. RMS @ 2-Ohm: 1 x 900-Watt

Wow man. That's overkill. You could just get one of those amps. Then wire both subs in parallel to the amp. This would give you 1200w @ 1ohm.

Trust me, this would be more then enough. The difference between 600w per sub and 900w per sub is 2dB. Not much.

I wouldn't waste money on the second amp.

[nvrplzd240]

Thanks bro.. youve just saved me even more money

i plan on purchasing all the stereo stuff except the subs and mono amp a few months from now.. and then pick the leftover stuff at a later time when i can fully afford it
Modified by nvrplzd240 at 9:19 PM 6/24/2006

[PoorManQ45]

good choice.

I always recommend that the sub(s) come last.

I've helped a few people that ended up deciding that they didn't need a sub at all

[nvrplzd240]

i know im gonna want to get a sub/subs cause i like bass.. the main reason im holding off on them is that i know i have more pressing things to do to the car before then.. and i dont have any speakers in the car as of right now, and i just cant deal with that for a dd

[nvrplzd240]

So you could probably wait a few days until I get home? Then i'll use WinISD to figure a nice box for you.

ok ok.. i realize that this is a bump from an ancient thread.....

but PMQ.. did you ever get around to designing a box for me

[PoorManQ45]

oops, completely forgot about this thread.

I'll get right on it

[PoorManQ45]

Done: I recommend going with the Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" D2 version.

Box size: 3ft^3 Tuned: 30hz

Oh wait, you said you wanted to use two of these?

Eh... I don't even want to bother.

Just use one of these drivers.

If you build it yourself build it with at least 0.5ft^3 extra volume to account for the volume that the driver and port(s) and braces take up

[nvrplzd240]

awesome!

thanks alot man..

even if i do end up using two.. cant i just build two boxes? Each exactly the same as what you recommended?

again, i really appreciate you doing that for me

[PoorManQ45]

Yep, you can build two boxes of the size I recommended

[nvrplzd240]

awesome

thanks again

[Looneybomber]

If you build it yourself build it with at least 0.5ft^3 extra volume to account for the volume that the driver and port(s) and braces take up

I suggest doing it all in in^3. Measure your braces and ports in inches, then subtract their volume instead of just guessing and adding .5ft^3

[PoorManQ45]

THat works more accurately looney, but I still recommend adding a little bit more airspace just incase. Even if it does end up ~0.25ft^3 too large you could always use wood blocks to decrease the volume.

Better too big then too small

[Looneybomber]

Better too big then too small

VERY true!

[ddrumman]

THat works more accurately looney, but I still recommend adding a little bit more airspace just incase. Even if it does end up ~0.25ft^3 too large you could always use wood blocks to decrease the volume.

Better too big then too small

PMQ,What's up man? Did you ever finish your "Q45 sub prototype"? Remember this thread?zerothread?id=114677

I would like to know if you've come up with anything. I'm kinda buttin in here because I see my choice of sub is being discussed.Let me know what you've done with this.

Take care man.

[PoorManQ45]

I made one. Then interest completely dropped out.

It's funny. With this kind of thing alot of people are interested, but no one actually wants to buy one