IDAHOTUNERS: Big Bore Sr22 Twinscroll Gt30 Build

[shaftinator21]

Nice pics man! Sweet car, what's up with that black Civic though?

[Didderson]

Good update. You almost fooled me until I read your explanation lol! I was like wtf he's not done that fast.

[playero_loko]

idaho,

did you ordered your t/s kit from full-race? when do you think you'd be able to begin tunning? quite interested in the number you could get... can you send me a pm in regards to the maching work you have done to your block...

Shaft,

whos the red head?

[shaftinator21]

Christina Hendricks, check her out she's smoking!

[idahotuner]

no i havent. i wont be ordering it tell next fall

idaho,

did you ordered your t/s kit from full-race? when do you think you'd be able to begin tunning? quite interested in the number you could get... can you send me a pm in regards to the maching work you have done to your block...

Shaft,

whos the red head?

as far as machine work mazworxs prepper block. check them out http://www.mazworx.com

[EssThrteen20]

Yo Idaho, i swear i remember reading something you posted but i cant seem to find it now. You said with your 90mm overbore your 3076r will spool like your old 2871 setup? If this is true you have me sold on overboring my block, as I was originally planning on leave it stock bore.

[idahotuner]

Yo Idaho, i swear i remember reading something you posted but i cant seem to find it now. You said with your 90mm overbore your 3076r will spool like your old 2871 setup? If this is true you have me sold on overboring my block, as I was originally planning on leave it stock bore.

it should spool about the same because if you look at the gt3076 twin scroll kits they spool about 300rpms later then the ss gt2871 .64 so my over bore and higher compression should move it back to the same spot as the gt2871.

we will see if it is true this fall.

[EssThrteen20]

This will be good news for me mostly because i want to be able to drift on demand yet still be able to make huge power because it will mostly be a street driven car. Only drifting when theres an event around, so a 30r spooling like a 2871 is nuts for drifting.

[idahotuner]

yes i am trying to do everything on mine to increase spool. right now i am in the process of polishing the head on the exhaust side. i am not doing the intake side because the turbo is forcing the air in but on the exhaust side its only the piston pushing it out. so the smoother my ports the less scavaging that will happen and the quicker spool it will have.

here are some pics crappy cell phone ones i know lol.stock onehalf way done onefinished one

mostly i am removing the casting lines and such .another reason for not doing the intake side is so the fuel can amortize with the air better.

[MastaYu]

looking very nice

[EssThrteen20]

The head looks good.

Are you flipping your intercooler and running shorter piping? Full Race makes a nice FMIC, but it can only be used on cars without flip ups which you don't.
Modified by EssThrteen20 at 7:30 PM 5/3/2009

[idahotuner]

i will be doinga few changes to my intercooler setup. but mostly to set it up for the different turbo position. and moving my BOV to the coldside.

[playero_loko]

Idaho,

got one question for you, you do have the kouki tail lights right? do you need the lower trim piece or can you use the one that the hatch comes with? ive been thinking about getting some but wasnt sure it was needed... also do you know if the usdm locking assy works with the jdm parts

[EssThrteen20]

Edit: accidently posted twice

[idahotuner]

Idaho,

got one question for you, you do have the kouki tail lights right? do you need the lower trim piece or can you use the one that the hatch comes with? ive been thinking about getting some but wasnt sure it was needed... also do you know if the usdm locking assy works with the jdm parts

no i dont have them, but yes you need the lower trim piece, i think they come with their own key and lock assembly usually.

[idahotuner]

well i got my exhuast side polishing almost completely done. just a few more minor hand polishing i have to do. but the knife edge and smooth surface should help spool up alot.

[White Comet]

Idaho,

got one question for you, you do have the kouki tail lights right? do you need the lower trim piece or can you use the one that the hatch comes with? ive been thinking about getting some but wasnt sure it was needed... also do you know if the usdm locking assy works with the jdm parts

you actually dont need the lower panel but it helps everything fit nicer. without the lower panel, the center garnish just doesnt sit flush with the lower panel since the usdm panel is sunken in. the usdm lock stuff doesnt work. but i'm working on a way to modify the usdm locking assembly.

looks really good, and i like what you have planned for it. i plan on polishing the exhaust side as well for the very same reason. my plan is still to go with the gt2871r but i wanna see how the 3076 does

[idahotuner]

yeah i thought about what it would be like if i ran the gt2871r again. but the spool up would be rediculously fast. and i dont want that much lowend power lol. i amworried about knowing when my motor is completely broken in . figure about 800-1000 miles of easy driving. but then some people say you should break a motor like it is going to be driven.

[zach-Ka]

I was told one full oil change, but that was by a guy who owned a car-lot/shop. Its all looking good though man.

[JRPS13]

the port and polish looks like its coming along nicely. gotta love the simple things that make all the difference in turbo spool up time!what numbers did you put down with the 2871r again? what you pushin for now?

[idahotuner]

madegt2871 .64 at 24psi416 rwhp and 350 lb tqfull boost 3800

want to makets gt3076 at 30 psi550 rwhp and 400 lb tqfull bost at 4000 rpms

[playero_loko]

madegt2871 .64 at 24psi416 rwhp and 350 lb tqfull boost 3800

want to makets gt3076 at 30 psi550 rwhp and 400 lb tqfull bost at 4000 rpms

idaho,

what did you have for tunning, a pfc? if so, what would you grade your tunning from 1-10... do you think that with my set up i could possibly breake the 500 mark? i think we have the same stuff except for the overbore and p&p job... do you think 450 could easily be attainable?

[idahotuner]

idaho,

what did you have for tunning, a pfc? if so, what would you grade your tunning from 1-10... do you think that with my set up i could possibly breake the 500 mark? i think we have the same stuff except for the overbore and p&p job... do you think 450 could easily be attainable?

i had a ECU tune by enthalpy, so i am not sure on the specifics exactly, yes i think you will be able to break 500 fairly easily, and 450 should be a piece of cake.

yeah our set ups are very similar, our compression might be different too, and i think your running a bigger throttle body.

[Idahos13]

so when do you think this bad boy is going to be done? I live in Idaho by the way

[V8slayr]

Idaho, I wouldn't worry too much about driving the car easy for almost 1,000 miles. I just did a rebuild on mine too. I'm not shooting for the kinda power you are but I used stock rods, OE bearings, ARP fasteners, and 87mm 9.0:1 CP pistons w/ stock sleeves. I'm using an Enthalpy ECU as well and have consulted my builder as well as Scott as far as break in goes. I drove the car easy for about 300 miles and then began to throw 15 psi to it w/ my T3/T4 50 trim. Scott said that he will build a motor, let it idle for 30 min then change the oil and go straight to the dyno @ 14 psi. Apparently the rings need a good bit of cylinder pressure to seat properly. Anyway, I have had no issues whatsoever w/ my motor since I started driving the car hard around 300 miles or so. My motor still only has 800 miles on it and I've done 7500 rpm pulls at 17 psi, and the car feels like it makes around 350 plus RWHP at that boost. So in my opinion w/ my own rebuild experience drive the car easy for a couple hundred miles, obviously change oil, and gradually start boosting it. It has worked well for me.

[boro drift]

Hey Ben, you're gonna have the car done in time for Hot August Nights, right?

[idahotuner]

so when do you think this bad boy is going to be done? I live in Idaho by the way

i am waiting on my rotating mass to be balanced, and only have 4 more weeks tell i leave for alaska to go fishing. well i get back from fishing august 21st, that when i will be ordering all my parts, hopefully full race will have all the stuff stock piled so i dont have to wait for them to make the parts, but i figure 2 weeks to get all my s***. probably an other week getting stuff all in the car and together.

lol yeah i noticed you were in idaho, but southren idaho, i actually live in walla walla washington, so that is about dead even with central idaho.

probably not tell october is a rough estimate, i should have at least every thing then and a base map running at least.

Idaho, I wouldn't worry too much about driving the car easy for almost 1,000 miles. I just did a rebuild on mine too. I'm not shooting for the kinda power you are but I used stock rods, OE bearings, ARP fasteners, and 87mm 9.0:1 CP pistons w/ stock sleeves. I'm using an Enthalpy ECU as well and have consulted my builder as well as Scott as far as break in goes. I drove the car easy for about 300 miles and then began to throw 15 psi to it w/ my T3/T4 50 trim. Scott said that he will build a motor, let it idle for 30 min then change the oil and go straight to the dyno @ 14 psi. Apparently the rings need a good bit of cylinder pressure to seat properly. Anyway, I have had no issues whatsoever w/ my motor since I started driving the car hard around 300 miles or so. My motor still only has 800 miles on it and I've done 7500 rpm pulls at 17 psi, and the car feels like it makes around 350 plus RWHP at that boost. So in my opinion w/ my own rebuild experience drive the car easy for a couple hundred miles, obviously change oil, and gradually start boosting it. It has worked well for me.

thanks for that info, its nice to hear what other people have to say, i am unsure as why exactly you need to change the oil right away, because seems like that is when the motor would be the cleanest, but maybe it is to get all the dust and s*** out from the oil circulating.

Hey Ben, you're gonna have the car done in time for Hot August Nights, right?

hehe whats august nights? lol

[Jybfan04]

Sweet build, hope everything works out for ya so you can finish soon!

[V8slayr]

Nobody has told me why exactly about the oil, but it seems logical to me due to the fact that all sorts of assembly lube and liquid gasket are used during the motor's assembly and that s*** needs to be cleaned out. Again, just my own thoughts on that. I waited 300 miles to do my first change and am doing another at my 1,000 mile mark.

[codyace]

Use a greddy, and never look back!

How are things coming mang?

no over sized oil pan. not sure which one. might do a welded sheet metal one or a freddy one that i will clean up.