Idaho Tuner's 240/|SR Build thread

[s14tan]

Damn Ben when is she gonna be runnin?!

[idahotuner]

Damn Ben when is she gonna be runnin?!

the goal was march, but i am thinking the middle of febuary some time. but to be more realistic. probly middle of march still. depends on if alot of things come together

[idahotuner]

well i am so happy. we got my head studs in and my turbo on. and every thing lined up.i will post pics i na little bit.

[Slideways^Jordan]

ok cool man i cant wait to see them pics post them soon.

[idahotuner]

ok starting out wiht putting the manifodl together.here you can see the bracket screwed on for supportadapter plate put on for the turbo inletturbo on manifoldthis back bolt was a PITAthe turbo lines are oneand here i have the turbo outlet and inlet onthis was last night i just set it on the head ot take a pici like this pic. it is just sitting there but it looks mean

and for what we did tonight

my dad brazed the bung for the oil temp sensor on my oil panthen we used 10mm tap to clean the threads o nthe headthis is my dads arm as he is working the tap i nthe holesand we painted the oil panthe turbo and everything bolted on. here i am hooking up the turbo lines to the blockand another shotthe block tilted to put the oil pan back onmy dad mada gasket for it outta paper bag.the oil pan on and the motor back in the up right positionthe coolant lines behind the block all set upand just soem pics of the motor nowthe finished motor. which we will drop in tomorrow. with the transmission one and new fly wheel and clutch installed.

[ajones1229]

Your motor has a beefy look to it that I really like and in the words of Terrel Owens "I love me some meat!"

Looks crazy good.

[duffman1278]

I forgot to do this with mine, but saw someone on here do it, and I would recommend it before putting the motor in. Take out the IACV and clean it. Should help you out when you go to start the motor.

[Didderson]

Duuude it looks great! You need one of those Built shirts w/ the universal engine symbol.

I like the green oil pan. hints of green ftw.

It's a beast man, hope u can handle the non sprung clutch lol.

Wiring tomorrow 4 meeeeeeeeL8

[Didderson]

I wanted to say 1 more thing. Try and fix the roller coaster heater core hoses for me? lol. Get some nice metal 90deg. bends made out of copper or something.U should clean the block while its still out. still a bit of grease near the water pump.

Are you planning on pulleys? if so i'm curious as to what brand.

[idahotuner]

Take out the IACV and clean it.

what does that intail?

I wanted to say 1 more thing. Try and fix the roller coaster heater core hoses for me? lol. Get some nice metal 90deg. bends made out of copper or something.U should clean the block while its still out. still a bit of grease near the water pump.

Are you planning on pulleys? if so i'm curious as to what brand.

yea my dad said we should figure soemthing otu for that. lol

the palce near the water pump has been soaked down with gunk. and pressure washed and it still looks liek that.

i am not doing any pullys right now. things like that will be later. like pulleys drive shaft. and the such

Your motor has a beefy look to it that I really like and in the words of Terrel Owens "I love me some meat!"

Looks crazy good.

i know it looks like it is flexing haha

[Didderson]

what does that intail?

the palce near the water pump has been soaked down with gunk. and pressure washed and it still looks liek that.

the iacv is on the bottom of ur greddy manifold. it's the thing that i asked u about coolant lines for it. the little thing w/ the idler screw on it. take that out and spray carb cleaner in there.

While you're at it, buy some brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray the block down. That's how I got my block so clean and fresh alluminum looking. I only spray painted the intake manifold.

Put a pan below the motor to catch all the grease. trust me let the carb cleaner sit for 5mins on the grease and then come back and spray it again w/ carb cleaner it'll run right off man.

Do it while the engine's on a stand it's cake!
Modified by Didderson at 12:24 AM 1/11/2008

[idahotuner]

ok i will do that. i will run to town in the morning and get soem carb cleaner and hose for the coolant lines around back.. i dont want to mess around with the iacv.

[Didderson]

Dude, I feel better now for ur motor's sake :P lol

honestly though, its 4 10mm bolts for the iacv. you dont have to undo the cooling lines even to get a spray in there. maybe just at least spray where the intake tube goes into it.

Looking forward 2 2morrows pics.

[idahotuner]

so you just spray car cleaner in the iacv. to clean it. if i would have know about this i would have done it while it was all apart. but i will spray some i nthe hole .

i need to go start a fire i nthe shop so it will warm up. then i need ot run to town and get some stuff.

oh and this . doesnt go behind the motor. it has the clip on one end. and i cant find a clip any where o nthe harness upper or lower. or on the block or transmission that fits it. it is sonly a ground wire so i am thinking baout leaving it off.

[MoldyOldy240]

Ok, I'm going to be honest here; lime green is not my favorite brand of engine paint accent; BUT I like your engine.

Definitely clean the IACV while you have it out.

I can't wait to see shots of the install; this is going to be awesome!

[Slideways^Jordan]

WoW Idaho your motor is looking very clean man i love the way it looks, keep up the good work and take lots of pics.

You should definatly clean out the IACV before you put the motor in the car. Im doing mine today for the first time ever and ill post pics in my thread.

[idahotuner]

i got car cleaner. and i am just spraying it i nthe hole. for the intake. in the iacv.

i am trying to get the old shifter out right now. so i can slide the motor in now problem. would you guys sugest dropping the drive shaft to put the motor back in?i am sure we will figure it out.crap i forgot to get transmission fluid. does any one know how much fluid it takes?

[sbird1]

Nice work dude. Looks clean and mean... on a side note, I had a early 90's Civic hatch rev his engine at me today. I laughed. That's all.

[idahotuner]

well i am uploading pics. we ran into some problems. well not that bad of problems but i needa bolt for a the transmission.

and i think my shifter isnt the right one that i got from Phase 2.

[duffman1278]

For the driveshaft, the way I did it, and worked easy was to leave it connected to the diff. but have it hanging and when you drop the motor in just connect it to the transmission. Remeber to use the KA shift boot, or trim the SR one.

If you trim the SR one, take off like 1/2" from it. Than after that you just gotta keep test fitting it.

For the amount of transmission fluid, look in the FSM MA-19, MA-20, MA-21 should be in one of those pages.

That one ground you have in your pictures DOES bolt to the back of the block. If you're looking at the back of the engine so that the throttle body is on the OTHER side of the manifold, it bolts onto the left side iirc. Look closely at my pic, it shows it hanging there. When I get home I'll let you know where it connects to

Edit: One last thing, when dropping in the motor, I suggest not hooking up the chain to a bolt on the BACK of the motor, if you do, get a SHORT bolt, just enough for the chain to fit in. But that doesn't seem to safe. When I did that for my swap, it was a PITA!! to get the motor to sit on the crossmember because the stupid bolt was hitting the firewall.

[idahotuner]

thansk duffman. that helps out alot.

now does any one know about installing the CS v1 shifter. i have searched and cant find any thing. and the shifter is different then the stock on. i am up loading pics to show the difference.

[duffman1278]

Don't you have to just replace the "plate" that comes with CS for the factory one. Its held down by like 6 bolts I think. Than just stick that bad boy in than the snap ring??

[duffman1278]

Not CS short shifter, but you might wanna try thishttp://importnut.net/240shifter.htm

[codyace]

Nice to see you finally on this!! Also, props to having your Dad help you out. It's always reassuring have the 'old mans' advice I'm sure

That little plug/wire thing is just a secondary ground, off of the factory oil/air seperator (back of drivers side of engine)...

very true, but even good pads with stock s13 brakes doesnt do nearly as good q45 brakes.

def dont rock stock brakes with an sr, especially one as modded as urs. even with a stock sr the s13 brakes suck. ask anyone that ever been in my car. thats why i got q45 brakes

Good pads on astock brakes will work just fine.

However, with looking at 350+ hp, Z32 is the only option IMO.

for putting together the turbo and o2 extension. will thread lock work fine. or is therer something else i should use

Rutland Stove Cement, found at Ace Hardware.

what heat range should i use for spark plugs?

7 heat range. Gapped to .022 -> .025 Iridium is best, but the old standby BKR7E-11 will do well. Just change them every oil change or every other.

[idahotuner]

Nice to see you finally on this!! Also, props to having your Dad help you out. It's always reassuring have the 'old mans' advice I'm sure

That little plug/wire thing is just a secondary ground, off of the factory oil/air seperator (back of drivers side of engine)...

Good pads on astock brakes will work just fine.

However, with looking at 350+ hp, Z32 is the only option IMO.

yea my dad helps me with alot. mostly body work cause that is his thing. he actually liek doing that unlike me. haha

i am going to leave that ground off. since i dont have the stock catch can. i am getting an after market one that i will moutn else where.

i think i will do the full q45 brake upgrade. not rotors and calipers. from JGY

ok and we didnt get the motor in today but here are soem pics of what we got done.new xact street light flywheel onwhat the old bearing thing looked like i nthe block haha POS6 puck act fly wheel onunsprung. might be a pain but i will get use to it.and the new pressure plate.my dad puttign the throw out bearing on and makign sure sh*t lines uptranny on the block pretty much ready to drop in

ok look at this the difference between the stock shifter and the new cs one. this longer thing under the ball wont let the new one go i nas far. so iam not sure how to install itit is suppsoe to work on the ka and sr motors. but i am not sure how the hell to get it too.and help would be great

and the reason that i couldnt even drive my car right now even if 4 feet of snow turning into slush sucks
Modified by idahotuner at 10:07 PM 1/11/2008

[Didderson]

That's an awesome update man, motor looks gorgeous.

Your dad's so cool About the shifter, the kit should have come with an alluminum spacer that you put down the hole before putting the stock plastic seat with the (- -) pins on it. That will allow the thing to sit properly with the new lengthened bottom. If your kit didn't come with one... i dunno man lol.

Oh yeah, and there are 2.4 liters of gear oil needed. I used the royal purple max gear I think it's called. about 10 bucks a liter.


Modified by Didderson at 12:49 AM 1/12/2008

[White Comet]

tom's right, u have the right shifter u just need the spacer. ive installed one like that before and i prefer the b&m but that one u have will work

[idahotuner]

thanks guys. yea my kit came with the aluminum space. and it came with a new peice for on top of the shifter. the thing was we couldnt push the shifter down in far enough to get the little c ring back in.but we will mess around with it again and seee what we can do. makes me wish i had gone 20 dollars more and got the V2 lol.

[Didderson]

There should be no need for the stock C ring anymore because the spacer raises it up flush with the rest of the trans housing. There's a bracket you just clamp on the outsides then usually to secure it. no dumb reintstallation of c clip!

[duffman1278]

So is it in yet?