Ichiba front 5 lug question, are mine messed up? (pics inside)

[killernoodle]

Awsome! Safety first, right?!?! Can't be those china quality made automotive parts!!

You're a moron if you think everything is made in china and crap if its inexpensive.

My hubs came with OEM bearings already pressed in.

Also, nice spelling.

[duffman1278]

Sorry grammer doctor! OEM bearings big freakin whoop. Go do some reading on material science and how the different types of metals that are out there, there heat treatments, etc then MAYBE, just maybe you'll have a clue as to why I said what I said.

Remember they're cheap for a reason, and not just because they don't do as much R&D like big companies.

[rc1honda]

I bought a $150 set or knock offs on ebay and they came in perfect.

Yeah i did the same thing and haven't had any problems. They were easy to install and the rears are handling my 350hp+ setup no problem. And im pretty sure they utilize new OEM bearings already pressed anyway.

[killernoodle]

They were machined out of a solid piece of billet steel, I don't think they're going anywhere.

They look beefier than stock.

[SmithSR]

The bearings are the important part, and the problem.

The housing doesn't fail. The bearings do. You should be using the best parts you can afford, and that means OEM bearings.

There's no guesswork with OEM, nobody asking

"Hey has anybody done business with Nissan? How's their quality? I don't want to be putting down $200 and then never hear from them and never get my part shipped..."

[Bumnah]

The bearings are the important part, and the problem.

The housing doesn't fail. The bearings do. You should be using the best parts you can afford, and that means OEM bearings.

There's no guesswork with OEM, nobody asking

"Hey has anybody done business with Nissan? How's their quality? I don't want to be putting down $200 and then never hear from them and never get my part shipped..."

There are minor differences. Example the hub face on the Ichiba hubs is slightly thinner than the OEM hubs. Only reason I know is you can't use ARP wheel studs on the Ichiba. They press in just fine, but the taper after the knurl is too large and extends too far past the hub surface. My rotors wouldn't clear the taper. The rotor were then sitting on the taper on the studs, and not flush against the hub face. Not a major difference, but caused me 6 months worth of brake gremlins, and several hundred dollars in trouble shooting.

OEM so the way to go.

[killernoodle]

There are minor differences. Example the hub face on the Ichiba hubs is slightly thinner than the OEM hubs. Only reason I know is you can't use ARP wheel studs on the Ichiba. They press in just fine, but the taper after the knurl is too large and extends too far past the hub surface. My rotors wouldn't clear the taper. The rotor were then sitting on the taper on the studs, and not flush against the hub face. Not a major difference, but caused me 6 months worth of brake gremlins, and several hundred dollars in trouble shooting.

OEM so the way to go.

I've drilled out the rotor bolt holes a slightly larger size about half the depth of the rotor on my friend's 240 when he put new studs in. It worked great and was easy as hell on a drill press.

[Bumnah]

Yeah I did that on my first set of rotor. It's just annoying to keep doing. I switched to Nismo studs, and they had the proper clearance. I want to be able to swap to a new rotor at the track if needed.

[jeb1517]

In case anyone was wondering, I decided to take the cheap route and order eBay hubs based mainly on price and the experience of a couple other members who posted here. They were $150 shipped and fitment was great. I used the extra money to order SS brake lines for my front brakes.

[Razi]

Should be fun when the bearings fail on that one too.