IAP kit

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lilskyline240
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I was thinkin about gettin one of the IAP kits and i was wondering if anyone had experience with them....i was thinkin maybe stage 1+.....

Was wondering if it would be wise to go with just the regular stage 1

if you have one of these kits, could u post HP numbers from a dyno or times u ran at the track plz....still undecided on what kit i want


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Craving4Boost
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this has been talked about before...look up GEO and import_ant...i know Geo did it with the DOHC, and import did it with the SOHC...

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fiznat
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florida240sx is also using the IAP kit, as is NICO's CEO Greg (AZHitman)

Structure240sx
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i helped GEO install the stage 1 kit on his 1995 s14 se automatic. we added a boost gauge, safc, and 370cc sr20 injectors. tunned it using my wideband and timing scanner (MDM techtom). it is running like a champ, with a perfect idle

soon after we installed it he had to go back away to school, not having enough time to dyno or get track time. recently he came home and raced his friends gs-t sypder eclipse with a greddy FMIC and 14psi (sometimes spiking to 20) off the stock turbo. from a roll GEO beat him by a good 4-5 car lenghts, i was driving my ka-t behind them. from a stop he still pulled a few car lengths on him, we didnt have a 1/4mi marked off

my butt dyno says about 220-230rwhp with a safe tune and automatic

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GEO
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i think it was mroe then 4-5 car lengths... his headlights were pretty dim in my rearview

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Craving4Boost
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is gregs up and running yet? i remember he came across a few problems

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Craving4Boost
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and also...manual cars have to worry about the clutch...what does AT cars have to worry about?

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fiznat
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Greg is having a few problems that we dont think are related to the kit itself.. Could be, though. I'll let him post about if he wants to.

Structure240sx
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automatics can handle a decent amout of power. off the bat i would use a transmission cooler for the auto (which we did on GEO's). increased line pressure would be the next thing to do then a better torque converter. if you are goin for big power a built auto will rock

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lilskyline240
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So is there any advantage to buyin the stage 1+ kit...or is the regular stage 1 enough?? do u think the 1+ kit would realy make 300whp??

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Craving4Boost
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stage 1 by itself will not get you anywhere close to 300hp because you need bigger injectors and something to tune it with. you can go with SAFC+480cc+z32 MAF. that will get you 300hp easily with the stage 1 kit from IAP. yes the stage1+ will be enough depends if you have the money to spend and you'll probably be making more than 300hp. however a good tune with the 550cc's would yeild a hp that, to me, is not too safe for your internals.

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lilskyline240
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so u think anything over 300whp is too much for my internals?? My motor has 72k on it and nothing is wrong with it...but i was thinkin about swapin the pistons and rods out for forged ones....if i would do that, what kind of boost could i be running?? upwards toward the 20's?? and that would give me near 400hp??

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fiznat
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At 300rwhp you are really flirting with danger as far as your ringlands go. At 375-400ish you're pushing the limits of your rods.

With a completely forged bottom end, people are running upwards of 30psi. I personally made 430rwhp at 20 psi with just forged pistons... that is, until the rods flew through the side of the block

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lilskyline240
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so if i want to make over 400hp i should go with the stage 2 kit....how hard is it to swap the pistons and rods??

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that consists of having a full motor rebuild, jsut with the aftermarket pistons and rods.

try not to let these guys let you get ahead of yourself. start off small and work your way up. you will be very happy even at 200-250rwhp. unles syou are awesome and used to drive 300+hp 240's

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lilskyline240
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Im not gettin ahead of myself...i just want something that can walk on Evo's and Sti's...and when the occasional Z06 pulls up next to me, i want to be able to talk **** cuz i know i can beat him.....i dont have a problem drivin heavily moded cars....ive driven my friends 10 second Talon....I just want something amazingly fast....but im prolly just gunna start out with the Stage 1+ kit.....

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AZhitman
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Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
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Let me step in here and throw some water on this fire.

If you're "chasing numbers", don't get carried away. I know of very few drivers that can use 250rwhp in an S-chassis car to its full potential.

More than 300 and you're looking at lots of money and no real good way to put it to the ground.

Not a popular view, and I'm sure I'll get flamed, but if you've never driven a 400-hp S-chassis car, you're in for a rude awakening.

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lilskyline240
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AZhitman wrote:Let me step in here and throw some water on this fire.

If you're "chasing numbers", don't get carried away. I know of very few drivers that can use 250rwhp in an S-chassis car to its full potential.

More than 300 and you're looking at lots of money and no real good way to put it to the ground.

Not a popular view, and I'm sure I'll get flamed, but if you've never driven a 400-hp S-chassis car, you're in for a rude awakening.
Do u believe if i buy the 1+ kit i would be able to take evos and sti's?? JW...thats my whole goal in this....or would i be better off goin with the stage 1 kit and doin suspension/lsd/tires...then upgradin the injectors and to a boost controller later??

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AZhitman
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EVO's run a 14.XX quarter-mile, so even the Stage 1 will put you at 225-230 rwhp, squarely in EVO / ST territory.

Without suspension / LSD / tires and perfect mechanical condition, you're not gonna do much with the additional power.

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lilskyline240
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alright, my friend chris has a s13 with a sr20 swap....tubular manifold, t3/t4 turbo, FMIC, 3in downpipe, 3in catback,AVCR, runnin 12psi...I just want to beat him cuz he keeps talkin crap bout the KAt.....he says hes around 270hp...but i doubt that....would the stage 1 kit get me there??

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AZhitman
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Totally wrong reason to build a car, but you'd need a little more power to play with a 12-lb SR.

Doubtful he's at 270whp with that setup.

Stage 1 with nothing added will put you around 225-230whp.

Again, using anything more than 250-300 in an s-chassis is going to come down to driver skill.

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lilskyline240
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SEee im still undecided about what im goin to do with my 240....im gunna be turbo, but idk what route to go....I was thinkin RB25 swap or the stage 1+ kit...should put me to bout the same HP.....so idk what i want to do

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grimple1
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save yourself the headache of a rb25 swap and just buy the IAP kit. Power-wise, however, they're not even in the same league. The RB25(and 26) are just monsters.

Buy the Stage 1 and see how you feel.... you can always yank it all off and sell it in the classifieds.

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lilskyline240
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so im not even gunna make close to the same power as if i would buy the RB swap correct?? I can get the motor in my car, everything accounted for, for the same price as the stage 1+ kit...but im still undecided....

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GEO
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Yeah Listne to the hitman... STart off small then go bigger.. Starting off with 300 hp is not the way to go if you havn't driven a 300hp S-chasis before as a DAILY or more then once.. Yes You drove your friends 10 sec talon, but that doesn't mean you can drive a 300hp 240 with ease. All cars react differently, and you need to get used to it beofr eyou can do anything else. Thats the way I am going at it. STarting small. 230rwhp for awhile. Probably going to go 5spd in the spring, then drive that around liek that for awhile intill I am fully comfortable with it. Then, its KA-T BUILD TIME. I ridden in Anthony's car, yes its a monster, and yes, there is no way someone could drive that car cold turkey.

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lilskyline240
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im not sayin im goin to start out huge, i just want to start out with the ability of havin like 300hp....i can always turn down the boost...but after like 2 months of drivin, my car always seems to feel slower...I have $6000 to work with, i can get the RB25det installed and workin perfect for that, or i can get the IAP kit....i am confident in my skill to drive a 300hp 240 tho...ill just start out with lower boost and slowly increase it

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Craving4Boost
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its no big deal really...start off with 370cc...then later upgrade to 480cc and tune...or 550cc..no big deal. 370cc's are like 50-75 bucks anyway

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fiznat
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AZhitman wrote:...if you've never driven a 400-hp S-chassis car, you're in for a rude awakening.
LOL he's right, but the "rude awakening" is part of the fun haha.

The whole "starting small and building upwards" is a good idea, until you realise that the resale of these parts really sucks. A turbo that you use for a 250rwhp applicaiton is VERY different from your 400rwhp turbo. Same goes for fuel/timing managment, engine build, injectors, suspension, wheels, etc etc etc.

My experience is that the KA-T doesnt lend itself to stages very well, unless you are willing to waste a lot of money buying parts at full price and then later selling them as you upgrade. IMO its best that you pick a range of power that youd like to be in - say 250 to 350, and stick with that. You can "start smaller" by reducing the boost and things like that, and then eventually get up to the upper limits of that range that you have set. That should prevent you from re-buying a lot of parts.

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AZhitman
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Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
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Spending $6K to put an RB in a $1000 car is, in my opinion, retarded.

Ruin the engine and then what? Where will you source parts? Or what if you wreck it? Even if you HAVE full coverage (which I doubt), indurance co is gonna give you $1K and tell you to get lost - WITHOUT your car.

You could get the IAP setup AND suspension AND tires for that kind of money AND have money left over, and if you pop a KA, it's $50-$100 to replace.

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lilskyline240
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True, but like fiznat said, its part of the fun.....I would rather start out with an engine with more potential...i dont want to have to rebuild the whole motor just in order to go over 300hp...I know many people bash someone who is puttin a RB in there car sayin "where are u goin to get parts when it breaks" Well i have put in about 2 solid months of researchin everything there is to know about The KAt, RB25, and the SR20.....i know what kind of numbers i can put down with all of them....i have soo far crossed off the SR20 idea because that is getttin too played out....then i was leaning toward the KA-T....but now im leaning toward the RB25.....I am prolly goin to chose the Rb25 just because of the elusiveness of it...NO ONE has it around here.....not within 100 miles of me....Im not just buyin the motor and dropin it straight in either...im doin everything necessary to make it run as perfect as possible....Koyo radiator, Flexilite fans, Greddy Timing belt, new water pump, new oil pump, Baffled oil pan, 3 in downpipe, 3in catback, New motor mounts, new driveshaft, Apexi AVCR.....and im not runnin more than 10psi until i upgrade my turbo and injectors....

Im not just some dumb kid that wants to have a 600hp daily driver.....i know thats not possible....but i do want a daily driver that can put down near 400hp....and i think that the RB would be the only motor that would do that...

I am still yet undecided but i am leanin toward the RB.....So show me some numbers to change my mind.....


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