I30 problem PLEASE HELP!

[I30Sleeper]

Hey guys, i'm new here and My name is Andrey and i also own An 1996 Ininiti I30 with 160k, i love that car the way it drives and its quickness for its own age and also being stock and only 190hp if thats correct, i would like to meet new people! anyways i've got a big problem with my car when i start my car on cold it seems to be working fine untill it worms up when it worms up to its normal temp it works for about from 2-5 minutes and then idles hard then dies out quickly, then when i start it up again and start driving it seems to be fine untill i stop at a red light or a stop sign it idles rough then dies out sometimes id be turning it would die out. also when i would go lets say anyspeed untill 60mph like if i would try to keep steady at 45 mph i would hold the gas pedal i same position starts dieng out/ shaking like its running out of gas. and one thing i forgot to mantion that the rpm jump like when i would slow down to a complete stop, for ex: inthe prosces of slowing down i'd say when i'm already slowly rolling it stays at 1000 rpm when i'm at complete stop it jumps down to 500 or some tomes it dies out when i'm slowing won when i reach 10-15 mph. please help me becaus it started eating gas like crazy!!!

[danielekfuj]

sounds like an IAC valve to me. I would check that. btw, welcome to NICO!!

[I30Sleeper]

Thanks for the welcoming and thanks for helping me out would i be able to clean it? and by the way u live in mount prospect i live by gurnee it be cool if we'd meet up some time if anything let me know

[danielekfuj]

yes, you can clean it. I would also check for kinked hoses, since that was what happened on mine. instructions for cleaning it are in the FAQ section at the top of the maxima forum, and here is a direct link:

http://www.moodym.com/maxima/c...l#IAC

zerothread/215404

[halcyon87]

You should also try and check the MAF sensor, because I've had a similar problem with the car dying and idling rough and it usually died when I was at a light or a stop sign. I also cleaned the IAC like they said also. but in the end the MAF sensor was the main cause, it was dying. the MAF sensor didn't trip the Check Engine Light so it was hard to distinguish the problem.

[I30Sleeper]

You should also try and check the MAF sensor, because I've had a similar problem with the car dying and idling rough and it usually died when I was at a light or a stop sign. I also cleaned the IAC like they said also. but in the end the MAF sensor was the main cause, it was dying. the MAF sensor didn't trip the Check Engine Light so it was hard to distinguish the problem.

thanks for the sucjestion but i cleaned the IAC swapped the scensors from a maxima IAC why i did that is because the the screw that adjusts the airflow was snapped off thats the way i got it from one of my buddies, i also cleaned the negine with the engine cleaner spray and wattered it off when afrer that the check engine was gone after 2 die outs. as amatter affect i found 2 new problems i need to replace the the chain and the drive belt! grr too mutch monney for the chain but i got to doit so i'd be able to get to work normaly, but incace i'll check the MAF scencor

[maxhopper]

Why do you think you need to replace the chain?

[I30Sleeper]

cause i got 160 k on it and its time to replcae it and then making some small sounds that arent supposed to be and i went to m mechanich today and scanned the computer one or more ijectors is pretty dirtyhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zeropost?cmd=reply&id=2727110#zer...27110#

[maxhopper]

I would check the chain guides before just replacing the chain.

[SweetI30]

IM going to tell you the problem and your going to love me. Ready... I have the same car and i had the same problem. I fixed it myself. Open the hood and look at your intake box, where the air filter goes. Your going to see a small box on the tube of the air filter box with a plug. This is your oxygen sensor. turn on your car and rev to 4000 rpm, get out and remove the plug and rev up to 4000 rpm again, you'll notice that the car is not going to let you rev that high. it will only let you rev to 3000. stop reving the car and put the plug back in to the air filter. The car is going to shut off. This means it was successful and wont give you the problem again. Let me know what happens. And dont go spening any money this is a fix it your self job.

[maxhopper]

Your going to see a small box on the tube of the air filter box with a plug. This is your oxygen sensor.

That's actually the Mass Air Flow meter.

[I30Sleeper]

IM going to tell you the problem and your going to love me. Ready... I have the same car and i had the same problem. I fixed it myself. Open the hood and look at your intake box, where the air filter goes. Your going to see a small box on the tube of the air filter box with a plug. This is your oxygen sensor. turn on your car and rev to 4000 rpm, get out and remove the plug and rev up to 4000 rpm again, you'll notice that the car is not going to let you rev that high. it will only let you rev to 3000. stop reving the car and put the plug back in to the air filter. The car is going to shut off. This means it was successful and wont give you the problem again. Let me know what happens. And dont go spening any money this is a fix it your self job.

ok well i did what you told me and the car still is the same like i took it for a drive around my neighborhood and atfist ir seemed to pick up cuicker but then when i started slamming on the brakes the car died out 2 times and then it was a lil hesitant on the gas and the rpm's are jumpy like itl jump from 900 to 510 then when i was slamming on the brakes after a good take off it jumped from 2500 to 900 then it held still on 900 till i stopped and then 3 seconds later it jumps down ti 510 and i'm getting egitated by this problem

[maxhopper]

I would look at the EGR valve and EGR tube. Carbon build up could cause the problems you are experiencing. The bad part is that the EGR tube is a pain in the *** to remove and clean.

I would also check for vacuum leaks as that is a common problem for your condition.

[loystock]

In addition to the IAC and EGR mentioned by Scott, make sure you have a clean air filter and replace the fuel filter (on the firewall below the brake booster). Take out the air intake manifold and clean the MAF sensor (use a non-residue contact cleaner) and then thoroughly clean the throttle body (spray parts cleaner/degreaser on a cotton wipe (or white T-shirt) and then use it to clean the butterfly valve and inner housing. Do not spray directly onto the throttle body as it could mess up the motor on the side). Use a dielectric grease on the MAF sensor connector to avoid oxidation on the contacts.

Rod