I was wondering.....

[WDRacing]

I am all about sticking with the motor thats in the car. I've owned a Skyline and have driven countless 180's while I was over in Japan. The SR is a well designed motor, that simply can't be disputed...PERIOD. Nuff said on that topic.

Every high HP SR or KA that you'll find will be a laggy not fun to drive car. If I wanted a 800WHP drag car, I'd hate to say it, but Nissan doesn't come close to making the motor I'm going to stick with.

So lets narrow the field down to what 99% of us want. A nice 300 to 350WHP daily driver to beat up on the local Mustang boys with. Is there a better motor for that? The simple answer is no...always will be no. Disputing this is retarded at best.

The parts field is only slightly better for the SR. The KA has only slightly more torque...we could go on for hours...hell Alan and I have gone on for hours over AIM. Just to argue opiniated points.

If you want a really good motor that will make gobs of power just by adding some boost, then buy a RB26 and have a nice day. You won't see me doing a swap unless it is somthing with a serious statement.

WD

[Riley2.4L]

Well damn. Sorry for opening pandora's box with my basic questioning. But I read all your guys posts and quite frankly what I've learned that really the determining factors to go either SR-T or KA-T are preference and cost. After reading ( for what seemed like an eternity) I'm leaning more towards the KA-T. No disrespect to those running the SR's but to me this whole KA SR battle is like an inverted import versus domestic battle. on one end you got the SR which though has a smaller displacement, comes stock turbo and brings higher horsepower stock. Not to mention its been around longer to be experimented on and for more innnovations to be created ( just like any of those old domestic motors) The KA is younger, already showing potential with its larger displacement, and comes stock in American 240's. The thing is the reason I got into imports is because I've always had an undying respect for those who can take a small displacement commuter car and turn it into high horsepower monster. In this case the "commuter car" is the KA24DE. Turboed it would produce more power and torque for less money spent ( I read one of you got a SR for like $350. I don't know what mafia connections you have but I've shopped around and no normal person can that engine that cheap.) Thanks to all you guys for the input and sorry for creating that hell storm there. By the way any suggestions as to what brands I should look into for turbos?

[HolyShiznit]

Oh geezuz.....

I went KA-T way back in the day because my car only had 70,050 miles on it exactly. Boosted the crap out of it with different management, boost levels, and parts. 2 years it ran flawlessly and didn't eat oil or lose any compression. Then the Shell 87 octane incident happened. Now I have forged pistons and STOCK RODS. Car will continue like that until I get a bigger turbo to replace it and shoot for 500+whp. Power band is fine for me but it would help a lot if Crower would send me my goddamn V3's that I have been waiting and paid for 6 months for.

I am sorry for some of you that have spent a ton on crappy set-ups and don't like your KA-T's, but me and my best friend turboed within the same month of each other and the ONLY problem he had was when the valve stems got ruined because his car overheated (which could happen to anyone). And yes, I have driven a CA18DET, SR20DET, SR22DET, RB20 and RB25DET. I don't like any of them, I personally would rather have an LS1 with a T-Rex cam in it. But my lil' KA-T keeps trucking along and it's fun to race bikes on the freeway.

[Warped]

1st, How is this not locked already?

2nd, Your only as fast as your wallet

3rd, No one motor (let alone certain type of motor) is gonna rule in every department, different motors do different things, hell look at a KA power band vs. one with V3 cams, the whole power band shifts and the motor becomes a different "beast" if you will. That's the trick and fun of building your car up different mods make power in different places it's all up to driver preference

4th, pick 2 of these 3, Power, Cost Effective or Reliability (and only 2)

5th, A motor is only as strong as it's weakest link, whatever it is........tuning, rods, pistons, fuel system, air flow, exc...... one of those is probably where your tq/hp limit comes from I mean there is more but in a nutshell those are the biggies.

6th, Both engines have ample aftermarket support, SR20DE's were sold in cars in the states, and aftermarket for the SR20DET is endless..........and the KA24DE/E has a nice selection of parts OEM and otherwise, plenty of turbo kits/upgrades too along with the custom route on both.

7th, The SR has been being "tuned" longer then the KA has been around being built up/tuned so the SR has more tested and tried things done to it, The KA on the other hand is relatively newer so things are being worked out and are experimental, but it is catching up fast to knowns and provens vs the SR

Answering your question, I went KA-T because the KA was in the car, I like the power band/ TQ #'s. SR wiring *seems* like a pain TO ME, I'ma DYI guy so the Idea of turboing something that wasn't in the first place sounded fun, and I had a sentra with the SR20DE in it (loved every second of that car too) and even though it was never boosted(SR) the KA-T seemed like a better match for MY driving style and preference.......It all depends on what YOU want, Low end TQ or High Revs and top end power, Even though both motors *could* (in theroy) be set up to do either but with in there respective limits and needs for upgrades to do so, see #2.

Almost forgot cost wise $ per HP I feel it's gonna be a toss up between SR and KA and once your into the 350ish+ HP land it's uber time/money/effort spent and your into internals on both, Reliability is gonna depend on a ton of factors, a few of witch are the SR's quality up front (condition of swap) same for KA (how good the motor is b4 you boost it). You have to use parts that arn't cheep if you want any kind of reliability. What you upgrade and where you upgrade (head work vs bottom end)....It all depends on your goals and budget knowing those and what the car will be used for are probably the bigger factors. Just my .02

Modified by turbo98_240sx at 10:09 AM 8/15/2005

Modified by turbo98_240sx at 10:15 AM 8/15/2005

i agree it took 15 posts for some one to tell the biatch to search its been covered hundreds of times just look and dont post till you know sometinng about what your doing

[turbo98_240sx]

Well damn. Sorry for opening pandora's box with my basic questioning.

I wish It was a basic question, I know the debate will sway both was at diffrent times but there is alot to back up both motors, thats why it's your preffrence of the two that answers the question.

But I read all your guys posts and quite frankly what I've learned that really the determining factors to go either SR-T or KA-T are preference and cost.

Cost really in my eyes being the lesser of the two, if you do it right the first trime, you'll save alot in the end, hell look at all the tuners that know what they were doing and still had a motor blow, point is you can never know to much so.........

After reading ( for what seemed like an eternity)

Get usta reading, hehe the more you know the better your gonna be able to do, also put aside plenty of time for things to go wrong, it happens but don't exspect your daily driver to under go a build in a weekend, plan accordingly to project size

I'm leaning more towards the KA-T. No disrespect to those running the SR's but to me this whole KA SR battle is like an inverted import versus domestic battle. on one end you got the SR which though has a smaller displacement, comes stock turbo and brings higher horsepower stock. Not to mention its been around longer to be experimented on and for more innnovations to be created ( just like any of those old domestic motors) The KA is younger, already showing potential with its larger displacement, and comes stock in American 240's. The thing is the reason I got into imports is because I've always had an undying respect for those who can take a small displacement commuter car and turn it into high horsepower monster. In this case the "commuter car" is the KA24DE. Turboed it would produce more power and torque for less money spent ( I read one of you got a SR for like $350. I don't know what mafia connections you have but I've shopped around and no normal person can that engine that cheap.) Thanks to all you guys for the input and sorry for creating that hell storm there. By the way any suggestions as to what brands I should look into for turbos?

ok now your this far, I guess what are your horsepower/torque goals? What year 240sx, budget? what is the main purpose for upgrades, track car, drag, drift, just a daily driver w/ more power (like still maintains alot of driveability and also MPG but this also depends on how you drive it, same with dependiblity, as does how well you build it) Now there are ways to save money on your build allmost anyways you go, but cut to many corners and boom............. food for thought, regardless let me know and I'll try to help you out as much as I canPeacePat

[Nismo_Freak]

cost.

I could put together an SR20DE-T for about the same price if not less than a KA-T and it would produce the same numbers. I bet not one person in this forum could put it together without me telling them the hot setup, but that doesn't mean I won't tell those who want to know.

Don't be quick to rule out something because of it's surface cost... this goes for both options.

Ex. Nitrous is at first cheap but just as expensive in the long run.

Ultimately the cheapest option is what you WANT.

[turbo98_240sx]

I could put together an SR20DE-T for about the same price if not less than a KA-T and it would produce the same numbers. I bet not one person in this forum could put it together without me telling them the hot setup, but that doesn't mean I won't tell those who want to know.

Don't be quick to rule out something because of it's surface cost... this goes for both options.

Ex. Nitrous is at first cheap but just as expensive in the long run.

Ultimately the cheapest option is what you WANT.

When you say this your using a SR20DE from the states and then building it up with a turbo "kit" right? I too think that would be the route that I would go if I went SR.......not to say it is the best route but if your ripping up internals on one with a turbo allready why not just have it be cheep stuff that your going to throw away or have sit on a shelf. Same basic engine and if your building the hell out of it might as well save your self some $$ and not get a JDM motor, thinking about it you could save hella $$ doing it this way.

In the end your still only as fast as your budget allows but that don't mean that you can't be thrifty about where the money is spent. Plus do it right the first time and you'll save the $$ to do it over again, not to mention the pain and frustration or downtime.

[Nismo_Freak]

When you say this your using a SR20DE from the states and then building it up with a turbo "kit" right? I too think that would be the route that I would go if I went SR.......not to say it is the best route but if your ripping up internals on one with a turbo allready why not just have it be cheep stuff that your going to throw away or have sit on a shelf. Same basic engine and if your building the hell out of it might as well save your self some $$ and not get a JDM motor, thinking about it you could save hella $$ doing it this way.

In the end your still only as fast as your budget allows but that don't mean that you can't be thrifty about where the money is spent. Plus do it right the first time and you'll save the $$ to do it over again, not to mention the pain and frustration or downtime.

No, USDM engines are FWD.

I would use a RWD SR20DE, and I'd just buy some pistons from a SR20VE and run 10+:1 compression, bigger cams out of the FWD high port engine, and from there all of the other stuff bolts right up from the RWD SR20DET. I'd need to tap my oil line but thats no biggie.

Use the VE flywheel with a DET pressure plate and disc.

Factory performance

[turbo98_240sx]

QUOTE=Nismo_Freak]

No, USDM engines are FWD.

I would use a RWD SR20DE, and I'd just buy some pistons from a SR20VE and run 10+:1 compression, bigger cams out of the FWD high port engine, and from there all of the other stuff bolts right up from the RWD SR20DET. I'd need to tap my oil line but thats no biggie.

Use the VE flywheel with a DET pressure plate and disc.

Factory performance [/QUOTE] I know this is kind of off topic but the FWD and RWD SR's aren't the same block or something? my guess is for the trany bolts? you can mail me if you don't want to clog up the thread with this off topic stuff @ [email protected], I'm just curious about this as I don't remember much about the SR's as it was quite some time since I owned the SE-R sentra and the guy who owns it now wants to put a DET in there and I was gonna help him out as much as I could as I luv Nissans and that car was killer, probably the only FWD car I'll really give props to (at least stock or close to) and since the trany mishap where some guy screwed up a clutch install and didn't put in half the bolts into the bell-housing and you can guess what happened next long story short it's just sitting waiting to be revived, so in short he's back to me for advice and help w/ wrenching and what not. but any Info you could provide me or point me to about the interchangeability of the SR's would be great. Oh yeah why would you go with such a high compression? thanks a ton, Pat

[Nismo_Freak]

I think Brian can agree with me here, a high compression low boost engine would just be awesome.

FWD and RWD blocks aren't the same.

[nismofly]

honestly, this is the first car ive really worked on, im doing it for the experience

ill be turboing this car with the KA to get the experience of installing a turbo and whatnot...and then id like to get a coupe and put an SR in it, which might even be my first engine swap if that happens

if my current car wasnt in such nice shape id be making this my SR powered road racer, because all you can run in NASA SE-R cup SRX class is the SR, but its flawless and its going to become a TT car instead

the coupe will be my wheel to wheel racer running SRX

before the coupe though im getting a B13 sentra to run SR class with and get into wheel to wheel road racing

i also need a truck to tow my race trailer with but were not going there now