Thanks for the knowledge and I'll look into that transmission seal. I did not notice any leaking from it but I'll put some liquid gasket on it when I put it back together.costa_rican13 wrote:idk about clutch replacement havent had to do it yet. but the driveshaft has 4 bolts on the diff, remove those. drop tail part of shaft,undo the carrier bearing bolts, should be 2. then pull the shaft from the trans, done. also might be a good time to replace that transmission seal too if its leaking.
I've taken the shifter out and was able to get to/loosen all the bolts without having to jack up the crank pulley. I used one of those wiggle adapters, I think they are called a u joint?darens13 wrote:dont forget to take your shifter off, jack up on the crank pulley if you have to, to angle the to angle the transmission down. you also might as well replace the gear oil in the transmission if you havent already. really the toughest part is gonna be sliding the transmission back into place. it can take forever or it can take a few minutes, either way just take your time and having a buddy help is nice. good luck

Do you mean thiscosta_rican13 wrote:You shouldn't put liquid gasket in the seal. It's just pry the old seal from the shaft hole and put the new one in. Autozone has them for like 10 bucks or something like that. The dealer has the price if not a dollar cheaper. I can't remember.

this! and its called rear transmission seal. i dont have a part number. but autozone and the dealer sell them. i got mine from autozone because i work there. but i would say the dealer has probably a better quality seal though.LoserCard wrote:You replace that black ring in the center.
Already done. It's a B&M which I took apart to see if I can isolate the buzzing noise with thick grease. ( I read somewhere that might work)REMOVE YOUR SHIFTER. Took me a few min to figure WTF was going on.
Take the transmission harness off done
Take out the starter done
Drain transmission fluid done
Remove shifter done
unbolt transmission done
slide transmission out
I'm stuck here with a problemUnbolt drive shaft from diff


Is this the carrier bearing in the center?and unbolt carrier bearing in center.

Slide it out from here?Slide out drive shaft

It was in neutral when I took the shifter out but I still can't completely turn it.SilviablhS14 wrote:If you put the transmission in Neutral and the spin the shaft and put it back in gear you will be able to get that bolt loose but I'm not sure how since you have already pulled the shifter.
This right here sounds like a win. Silly Rabbit...lolLoserCard wrote:Silly... You have to put the car in neutral, raise the rear wheels, AND left off the e-brake...
Oh and BTW, you will be able to turn it by hand. No need to crank it over using the main pulley bolt. Once you turn the driveshaft to where you need to put the e-brake back on to break that last bolt loose.
Oh and another thing, when you go to put the driveshaft back on, if you make sure that the bolt holes on the differential are rotated even (2 left and 2 right), you can put the driveshaft back on without rotating it at all.
This makes sense. I posted my question when I was bone tired and couldn't think anymore which is why I get the silly rabbit award.Take a min. to think about how a transmission and motor work. You asked if you can turn the bolt on the crank shaft to spin your drive shaft. Well, if your car is in gear, of course you can. If your car isnt in gear, than no.
$250 later I have the car back. (there goes the money for the damper delete hose and pivot fork.) Apparently the rules of the condo association state that none working cars cannot be parked on the property. They had seen the car on the jack stands the night before so they called the towing company. The rules also state that only minor repairs can be done and no oil changes. To me this is a bunch of minor repairs so it qualifiesDude that blows, but you might be out of luck depending on what you signed when you moved in. My old landlord had me sign a paper stating no cars would be worked on in the parking lot. If you didnt sign anything like that then go talk to them and politely ask them to pay the towing charge.
You can go to an auto store and get a new hard line for $5.Morph wrote:FYI, to delete the box you dont have to get the SS line. What I did is when to the local junk yard and got another hardline, bent it to shape and hooked that up in place. Think it cost $5 bucks and maybe an hr.