I'm getting my annual oil change this weekend

[Falkdesigns]

That's right, ANNUAL. And I can say from the dipstick, my oil is still very clear, not dark black at all. My car still idles like glassy smooth too, runs and drives like the day you change the oil. While I'm there this weekend, I'm getting my coolant, diff fluid and P.S. fluid changed over to Amsoil too for my cars 100k birthday present (100k should occur in the next 2 or 3 weeks of driving).

I got two of my coworkers switched over to Amsoil and they both swear by it now. My one buddy here has a SC400 with 60k on it, he's coming up on his year soon, he's been building and modding cars since the early 80's and says it's the best oil he's ever used and will use it in all his cars from now on.

Even though I sent a sample from my last oil change out for analysis, and it came back with results putting it well above many NEW oils, I'm gonna send it out again to see how it is this time just for giggles. Last time it had about 8k on it, this time I went the whole year, but that's only about 10k for me. One thing I've noticed different from my Civic is that this car burns absolutely no oil. The Si needed to be topped off with a half quart or so every 2-3 months, but every time I check my Q, the oil is clear, and spot on the top bar.

[Rex]

I thought the extended run oils recommended a filter change at some interval, does Amsoil recommed this?

Have you considered adding additional oil capacity and a top mount/accessible filter and running it until the samples show some wear?

[Falkdesigns]

Previously Amsoil did recommend 6 month filter changes, but not with their new EA oil filters. However, when I did my last oil change, the EA filters weren't out yet, so I did change to an EA filter at 6 months. The Y33 filter is a top mount, it's much easier to just take off the air intake which is two 10mm nuts, than the entire splash guard, and just reach right down to it. It's right at the top, isn't the G50 like that?

[goody90q45]

The Y33 filter is a top mount, it's much easier to just take off the air intake which is two 10mm nuts, than the entire splash guard, and just reach right down to it. It's right at the top, isn't the G50 like that?

That was a cheap shot!! (LOL)

[BlueC]

Previously Amsoil did recommend 6 month filter changes, but not with their new EA oil filters. However, when I did my last oil change, the EA filters weren't out yet, so I did change to an EA filter at 6 months. The Y33 filter is a top mount, it's much easier to just take off the air intake which is two 10mm nuts, than the entire splash guard, and just reach right down to it. It's right at the top, isn't the G50 like that?

Details on the Amsoil oil and filter. I'm thinking about doing this for my Y33 this upcoming month, before winter hits.

[Falkdesigns]

That was a cheap shot!! (LOL)

lol, I assumed since they're both VH series engines, it would be at the same place. It's not though huh?

BlueC, I've used Amsoil in my cars for about 7 years now, and swear by the stuff. They're the oldest and first 100% synthetic oil for automotive applications. Just look up Amsoil on the web and read up on it https://www.amsoil.com/ . People on here swear that no oil is good that long, but they've got over 30 years and an amazing reputation on the line if they sold junk and people had problems going 15k like they recommend. My mechanic has been selling and recommending it for years, I've got about 7 years of my own experience with it, and I've sent my used oil for analysis 3 times. I've never seen another oil top Amsoil in any independent test, and brands that don't include Amsoil on their own graphs, like Royal Purple, or Redline, don't include it because it tops their product.

[Rex]

That was a cheap shot!! (LOL)

If so, I would expect it was only in good clean fun .

My "concerns", if you will, is in climates that makes it beneficial to use different weights for different seasons ... something (most of) Cali doesn't require.

All in all, I have no issue with long run IOC's, I just feel comfortable with lower cost per quart (not cost per quart/per mile) synthetics. Not to mention (as Dennis notes) the benefit of being under the car every 90 days to see what else is going on before it breaks half way between Cincy and ATL .

[Jesda]

You should send it to Blackstone and show us a report. That sounds pretty cool.

[TCsynthetics]

This is what AMSOIL recommends for the 2000 Q45:

2000 INFINITI Q45 4.1L 8-cyl VIN Code VH41DE

FILTERS Oil Filter........ EAO13 AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter (25,000 miles or 1 year) Oil Filter........ 51356 WIX 51356 Oil Filter (O) Air Filter........ 46053 WIX 46053 Air Filter (O) Fuel Filter........ 33023 WIX 33023 Gas Filter (S)

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS

Engine Oil Grade 1......API* Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil SAE 10W-40 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil SAE 5W-30 XL Synthetic Motor Oil Above 0°F......10W-30, 10W-40All Temps......5W-30[1]Automatic Transmission.....AF3 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid Torque-Drive™ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD)Automatic Transmission.....AF2 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid Torque-Drive™ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD)Differential, Rear .....GL-5 Below 10°C......75WFluids Power Steering Fluid.....AF3 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid Torque-Drive™ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD) Brake Fluid.....HB Clutch Fluid.....-

1. SAE 5W-30 is preferred.

CHASSIS LUBRICATION 0 Fittings, 0 Plugs

CAPACITIESEngine, with filter..........5.6 quarts[1]Cooling System, Initial Fill..........12.0 quartsAutomatic Transmission, Total Fill..........11.0 quartsDifferential, Rear..........2.7 pints

1. After refill check oil level.

TORQUESOil Drain Plug.....22-29 ft-lbs

If you have any questions contact me at the website below or at [email protected].

Have a great day!

[elwesso]

Cliff,

Welcome to NICO!!!! I'm sending you an email right now!!!!

As far as the other stuff, im not a big fan of running oil that long.. mainly because my car uses a little bit (puts me about halfway down the cross hatches after 3-5 months), so I just change it instead of topping it off... I do the same thing whenever the PS needs topped off (about twice a year), i just go ahead and take it all out and put new stuff in....

I ran mobil 1 10w30 from June till last weekend (almost 5 months) and had to top it off once with 1 quart.... had about 4500 miles on it, and it was starting to get tired.... But it did see an auto-X and 2 months of just short trips....

right now im running mobil clean 7500, was the same price as durablend but I hadn't used it yet so i figured id try it.... using a purolator PURE ONE filter... Overpriced, will probably run OEM filters next time for less money....

[maxnix]

You should send it to Blackstone and show us a report. That sounds pretty cool.

Yeah, I never understood how the engine knows which oil is in the crankcase. Since most contamination is on cold starts with blow by on gasoline washed cylinder walls, that determines cahnge intervals more than anything if the engine is not consuming oil, like most VH series do not.

If the engine is never shut down and is run at constant cruising speeds, 25K without serious degradation is indeed possible.

Remember, urban driving (short trips under 25 miles, shut down and restarts, idling) invokes the severe driving cycle OCI schedule.
Modified by maxnix at 6:24 AM 11/1/2006

[FarFetched]

Quote »I got two of my coworkers switched over to Amsoil and they both swear by it now[/quote]My wife's xA is on Amsoil, in-law Protege is on Amsoil, my "HO" is on Amsoil. Only one car isn't on Amsoil is my POS Honda Civic (I wouldn't waste good oil on it!)Very good taste in oil! Cheers!

[Falkdesigns]

There are those of us that know and those that just don't get it. Changing even ps fluid 2x a year, that's so overkill I can't even fathom that. This will be the first time I've changed mine since I bought the car 2.5 years ago.

I've sent out oil for analysis 3 freakin times now, every time I did, the oil came back suitable for continued use, with nothing more than trace amounts of any contaminants.

What some of you guys just don't get; Amsoil does NOT BREAKDOWN like dino oil. It takes waaaay more to cook it, and even with some carbon in it, the filters work down to some insane micron level that it does not effect to ability of the oil to do it's job. Anyhow, I'm not here to convince anyone to switch over to Amsoil. I know, and that's all I care about. The rest of them can piss away money changing synthetic oil every 3 months.

Myself, I'll enjoy knowing my engine has superior protection and lubrication for the entire year that I run on each Amsoil change. Even with my 98% city driving.

[elwesso]

I just dont really understand why people feel the need to run a year on one change of oil.... I guess its because they feel they use a superior product and need to "go against the grain" or have something else to prove.... Maybe its an ego thing "I know more than everyone else, and therefore I can run an oil change for 15k miles".... If it makes one feel better, thats fine.

I'm not attacking anyone, but sometimes overkill is better than replacing hard parts.... A lot of times people that do this wont keep their car long enough to suffer any sort of consequence.... If you run a really good oil fliter, you dont really konw how much wear is being done to the motor, so the contaminants are sort of not as high as they deserve to be... Id be intersted to cut open an oil filter from one of the year long oil changes (or whatever service interval you use) and see how much stuff (COPPER from rod bearings) is in there....

For me, ill take my $25 oil changes 3-4 times a year (usually every 3.5 months) and keep everything fresh and never look back...

I always think its better to buy a conventional fluid and replace it more often than it is to buy a really expensive fluid and use it 3-4 times longer than a conventional fluid.... Its not realy a matter of "getting it" or "not getting it", its a matter of preference.... If you feel the need to change your fluids yearly, thats all good, but one must be aware of the tradeoffs in either direction ... I will agree that changing any synthetic is probably overkill changing it at 3 months.... I usually go 5 months with my synthetic (which is only about 3500 miles)... that doesnt make me feel uncomfortable...

More/less, its probably due to the filters not the oil itself. Redline, mobil1, and amsoil are all fairly comparable as far as resistance to breaking down, but only the filter can get rid of the insoluable materials.... At $6/quart, amsoil not overpriced and its fairly competitive...

I can take comfort that pretty much any oil/filter I run (within reason) will give me the best level of protection possible...

Kevin, the reason im going into this is not to diss you or call you out, but to give "the other side of the story" so that people are aware of what is going on.... In the case of the Q with a relatively small oil capacity compared with other V8s of the time, i dont like running such long intervals... If it had and 8-9 quart capacity like other V8s of the time (90-01), it would be a different story... not an entirely different story, but i wouldnt feel so bad about going 6 months....

Heres the bottom line: Doing short interval oil changes (not just motor oil, any fluid), synthetic or not, may be overkill, but for some they'd rather be safe than be replacing hard parts...

[Falkdesigns]

Oh believe me, it is a matter of getting it or not. The new EA filters are good for 25000 miles, but you would probably use it for 3 months anyhow. It's nothing to do with being superior ego or whatever, it's all about 30+ years of proven technology. This isn't some sort or witchcraft or old wives tale, it's proven fact. Myself, in 21 years of driving, I've never had to replace any hard parts, other than normal wear items. And obviously like I stated, I've used Amsoil for 7+ years, so for 13 years I used regular oil and regular OCI's. Now I know better.

[Q45tech]

I think of a 90 DAY OIL CHANGE as an opportunity to put the Q on a lift and spend an hour going over everything. Checking all the fluids, using rubber treatment on all the hundreds of surfaces, lubeing the window channels and sunroof, door hinges, etc.

Getting ready for the next 100 FLIGHT HOURS. So I won't get shot down in a inhospitable place.

[Falkdesigns]

I can understand that, as Rex mentioned the same thing. I mess around with my cars so much anyhow, it's not needed for me. Do you actually lube the window channels, sunroof, etc. with the car on a lift? I just do it after I detail it, parked on the ground somewhere.

I would also say I can pretty well guarantee that my car is in every way, shape and form, at the very least among the best condition Y33's on the road today. I'm talking the top 2 or 3% of all Y33 Q45's in America. That includes mechanical running condition.

[louiegz]

I guess the problem I have with annual oil change is that an oil change is so cheap, why not do it every 3 months. The only reason sometimes I don't do it every 3 months is that I get lazy. I'm overdue time wise this time because I had to order filters from Joe. Now that I have a years worth, I'll stick to every 3 months. Falk, I'm sure your oil is fine after a year but I still don't trust when the BMW dealer is telling me one year or 15k miles for an oil change. I just figured they were being cheap bastards because they do free service for the first 4 years. As soon as I'm done with the 4 year/50k service they do for free, I'm doing it every 6 month at least. Like I said, an oil change is cheap.

[Falkdesigns]

You guys are some serious conspiracy types. If BMW, Porsche, et. al. is saying 1 year or 15k, there's a good fukin reason, and it's nothing to do with them being cheap. I guarantee it costs way more in material, AND reputation to replace engines than it does to replace oil. They do it because the modern, premium synthetics are just as good after a year as they are after a week.

[qship96]

dont forget BMW uses 8.5 quart sumps on their v8,and Porsche 911 is over 12 quart sump--oil lasts much longer due to these larger sumps!the q holds a measily 6 quarts,so oil gets contaminated quicker!

[FarFetched]

I think of a 90 DAY OIL CHANGE as an opportunity to put the Q on a lift and spend an hour going over everything. Checking all the fluids, using rubber treatment on all the hundreds of surfaces, lubeing the window channels and sunroof, door hinges, etc.

Getting ready for the next 100 FLIGHT HOURS. So I won't get shot down in a inhospitable place.

GOLDEN WORDS . PM (preventative maintanence) RULES!!! Knowing your enemy is the best strategy!A lot of car owners forget of the importance of a good PMI even if OIC isn't involved. However if it's not OIC due, people, in majority, don't even look at the tires. The Purpose of PMI is to inspect undercarriage for overall condition. IN our Fleet we have E450 ACCESS busess that are close to 400K miles. They have problems, however, with proper car they can run up to 500K moles if King County Metro would let us keep them that long!I do 10K miles on my wife's xA and when I change Oil Filter I inspect everything, remove tires - brake check and such - HABBIT!If one does an annual OIC, a thorough check should be performed !Cheers!

[Falkdesigns]

dont forget BMW uses 8.5 quart sumps on their v8,and Porsche 911 is over 12 quart sump--oil lasts much longer due to these larger sumps!the q holds a measily 6 quarts,so oil gets contaminated quicker!

And don't forget they make other size engines too. Think a BMW 3.25 has an 8.5 qt. sump? I doubt it. I know from my own experience, not what I've read or been told. I sleep just fine knowing that the oil in my Q has 10,000 miles on it by the time I change it. And I know my engine is being protected better with 10k old Amsoil than any of your 3k OCI's that run even the best Dino-oil.

[louiegz]

I think my 03 330i hold 6 quarts, but don't quote me on that.

[louiegz]

You guys are some serious conspiracy types. If BMW, Porsche, et. al. is saying 1 year or 15k, there's a good fukin reason, and it's nothing to do with them being cheap. I guarantee it costs way more in material, AND reputation to replace engines than it does to replace oil. They do it because the modern, premium synthetics are just as good after a year as they are after a week.

Yea, the engine replacement will most likely happen after the 4 year/50,000 miles when most people who bought the car new would have gotten rid of the car. I plan to keep mine for 10 years at least. I think I'll do my extra oil changes.

As far as conspiracy, yes there was an extra gunman on the grassy knoll.

[bullittandy]

Falk,When I read this title I knew we were in for a row!! Be careful, I've heard of Nico death squads coming after the likes of people like you.

Seems like Falk has got people pinned if he's analyzed his oil and it is contaminant free.

I'm thinking of using diet coke at my next oil change (cheaper than oil).

[qship96]

The worst thing about Amsoil is their multi level pyramid marketing,and the over zealous "distributors" shoving the crap down everyones throats.other than that it is a decent oil,no better,or worse than mobil,redline,etc.

[Solini]

As soon as I saw the title, I knew this was going to be a long thread with many opinions. Well Falk, I'm with you on this one, I've had my Amsoil with the 25k filter and don't plan on changing it til next Sept. From my understanding even as a kid the main cause for a oil change was due to the filter clogging up with particles. And this was far before I knew anything about synthetic oil, so it seems to make sense if the technology got better with filter production that you would have cars being able to last longer in between changes, but hey that's just my .02

[Falkdesigns]

The only marketing I've ever seen Amsoil do is to sponsor race teams. Other than my mechanic, who I consider to be one of the best around, and a trusted friend, the only other real pushers of it were Racing Beat - the famous Mazda rotary tuners, who won their class at Daytona 24 hours in the mid 80's, and swore by it. I see they now recommend Royal Purple, not sure why or when they changed. Shoving it down everyone's throats? I've yet to see or hear any experience like that. The only experience I've seen is people that actually try it, and then never go back.

I'm curious if it's no better than Redline, etc. why then don't ANY of them include Amsoil in their comparison charts? It's because Amsoil beat them all, therefore they just don't show it.

Bullitt, I could analyze it till I'm blue in the face, tear down my engine and show spotless internals, and people on here would still doubt. I posted a few years back a link to a tractor trailer engine that ran 300k PLUS on ONE oil change then they tore the engine down, and the internals were like new. And then guess what people on here said? 300k+ on ONE batch of oil in a tractor trailer isn't under as much stress as a Q

Heh, whatever, I love debates like this, and to see the responses from people that swear they know, but have never tried.

[TCsynthetics]

These are the specs for a 2005 BMW 330i

2005 BMW 330i 3.0L 6-cyl VIN Code M54-B30

FILTERS Oil Filter........ 51223 WIX 51223 Oil Filter (S) Air Filter........ 46320 WIX 46320 Air Filter (S) Fuel Filter........ NS Trans Filter........ NA Cabin Filter........ NA

BOSCH SPARK PLUGSAll submodels: Plug........ B4417 BOSCH PLATINUM +4 SPARK PLUG [1]

1. Do Not Gap. Gap is not adjustable.

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDSEngine Oil Grade 1......SL[1] Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil SAE 5W-30 XL Synthetic Motor OilAll Temps......5W-30[2]Automatic Transmission,A5S 325Z.....AE[3] Synthetic Automatic Transmission FluidControlled Slip Differential, Front .....GLS[4]Standard Differential, Front .....GLS[5] SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear LubeControlled Slip Differential, Rear .....GLS[6]Standard Differential, Rear .....GLS[7] SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear LubeFluids Power Steering Fluid.....AF3 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid Torque-Drive™ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD) Brake Fluid.....HB Clutch Fluid.....HB

1. To prevent potential engine damage, use only BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil part No 07 51 0 017 866 or equivalent. Refer to engine compartment oil change decal. 2. To prevent potential engine damage, use only BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil part No 07 51 0 017 866 or equivalent. Refer to engine compartment oil change decal. 3. Esso LT 71141 ATF, BMW part no. 83 22 9 407 807. 4. GLS is BMW Part No. 83 22 1 470 080 or Castrol SAF-XJ. 5. GLS is BMW Part No. 83 22 9 407 768 or Castrol SAF-XO. 6. GLS is BMW Part No. 83 22 1 470 080 or Castrol SAF-XJ. 7. GLS is BMW Part No. 83 22 9 407 768 or Castrol SAF-XO.

CHASSIS LUBRICATION 0 Fittings, 0 Plugs

CAPACITIESEngine, with filter..........6.9 quarts[1]Cooling System, Initial Fill..........8.9 quartsAutomatic Transmission, ZF 5HP19 Initial Fill..........4.2 quarts[2][3]

Manual Transmission, ..........2.5 pintsDifferential, Rear..........2.5 pints

1. After refill check oil level. 2. Approximate, fill to level of fill plug. 3. With ENG at operating temperature, shift through all gears. Check fluid level in PARK and add fluid as needed

The additive package is the key to extended oil changes. AMSOIL uses a package that is proven to last. The base PAO stock must meet their stringent standards, if it doesn't it simply is not used.

AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters have the best efficiency rating in the industry. EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, while competitive filters containing conventional cellulose medias range from 40 to 80 percent efficiency. A filter’s capacity refers to the amount of contaminants it can hold and still remain effective. AMSOIL EaO Filters have a far greater capacity than competing filter lines. When used in conjunction with AMSOIL synthetic motor oils in normal service, EaO Filters are guaranteed to remain effective for 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

Besides the benefit of protecting your valualbe investment, you put 1/8 the amount of waste oil back into the stream by changing your oil once a year/25,000 miles.

Have a great day!Cliff

[elwesso]

I'm curious if it's no better than Redline, etc. why then don't ANY of them include Amsoil in their comparison charts? It's because Amsoil beat them all, therefore they just don't show it.

Do you have anything saying amsoil is better than redline/mobil, and it cant come from the manufacturer website....? just curious. You know better than anyone that when trying to prove your point you dont compare apples and apples!!!!

Im totally with Lou, oil is cheap, so why not be safe?

You also cant compare the MB/Porsche/BMW OCI's because their capacities are much larger than nissans.... Also they have different designs (tolerances, filters, all kinds of stuff) that will effect that... A better comparison would be with the toyota motors, and you see the sludge problems they have with using the 7500 mile oil change interval!!!

For the record, we ran our grand prix about 9,000 mlies on its last oil change with a standard filter and dino... We just went by the oil life monitor (warranty), and much to my surprise the oil still looked fine and it was only a tiny bit low (just barely off the top mark).... BUT THIS WAS A NEW CAR, not a car with 100k on it.

And yes, that comparison on the 300k is different because the vehicle was driven many many miles before being shut off, and they probably use a huge oil capacity (20 quarts?)... its not to say that its not impressive that the engine was fine or the oil wasnt great, but YOU CANT COMPARE THAT TO Q45!!!!! or any "car" for that matter!!!!!

Heres what I know as an irrefutable point: If changing your oil once a year is "fine", then changing it 3 times is "better".... You cant object to that... I tend to want to lean on the "better" side, but for some "fine" is ok (and its very possible it far exceeds the minimum requirement)... Its still up