i'm finally KA-T!!

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
zenkiderek
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:35 am
Car: KA24DE s14

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ever get around to dyno?


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WDRacing
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a240sxpinoy wrote:update>>> still good and runnin! 15,000+ miles!
That's great news

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Razi
Posts: 28373
Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:52 am
Car: Moo

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Here is his engine bay from a meet a while ago. He put on a SR manifold heat shield, nice and stealthy.

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a240sxpinoy
Posts: 275
Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2002 6:26 am
Car: Nissan sil40

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neverlift wrote:nice update!SO any issues along the way? I had plenty of stumbles in the past, but keep on truckin
ummm i had issues with the spark plugs and it cause miss-firing but got NGK's and that fixed that problem. now all i know is my wack ebay bov that doesnt open at low boost and only high boost. planning on re-circulating it soon with a bosch bov off a saab
zenkiderek wrote:ever get around to dyno?
i actually havent been able to get around and get that done. i want to though!
WDRacing wrote:
That's great news
thanks! NICO helped me through my troubles!
Razi wrote:Here is his engine bay from a meet a while ago. He put on a SR manifold heat shield, nice and stealthy.
i didnt know you had a pic of my engine bay! thanks man!

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DMan II-40
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Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:49 am
Car: 1995 240SX SE
Location: East Bay Area, CA

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I really like that manifold. How much do you think it would cost to get something like that done?

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a240sxpinoy
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2002 6:26 am
Car: Nissan sil40

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if i remember a guy at the socal s-chassis meet got it done for his car and got quoted $150 from the guy who did mine. ill check-up with my friend who does the welding if he ever finished or did it for him.

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motoman399
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Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:18 pm
Car: 98' wrecked (RHD coming soon) 240
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DMan II-40 wrote:I really like that manifold. How much do you think it would cost to get something like that done?
send me the mani and the flanges or both mani's and ill do it for 75 you pay shipping and i am a certified welder. i will guaranty it for 1 year money back!

ps nice setup op!

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WDRacing
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Just something to point out, the bottom mount SSAC manifold for the KA is the basically the same thing as the SR manifold. They place the turbo in the same spot, so you can use all the SR20 parts and not need to weld or ship any cast pieces. Shipping a heavy cast mani back and forth will cost almost as much as the SSAC mani itself.

Just my .02

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240sxvaj
Posts: 2076
Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2006 1:57 pm
Car: 1991 240sx fastback KA-T- SOLD!
1994 MKIV TT-Daily/Track
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havent heard from you in a while, still havent install your msd blaster coil? good to know that your still running strong. i'm still trying to come up with some $$ so that i can get my T3 set-up done.. miss Boost!!!

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a240sxpinoy
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supp man ya i know been bz trying to get a job or even that trying to go back to school for a masters or something equivalent. lol ya after i changed to the NGK wires it fixed it so didnt bother changing if it was working fine. but ya hows everything at cal poly?

boost already! lol

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DMan II-40
Posts: 1234
Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:49 am
Car: 1995 240SX SE
Location: East Bay Area, CA

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WDRacing wrote:Just something to point out, the bottom mount SSAC manifold for the KA is the basically the same thing as the SR manifold. They place the turbo in the same spot, so you can use all the SR20 parts and not need to weld or ship any cast pieces. Shipping a heavy cast mani back and forth will cost almost as much as the SSAC mani itself.

Just my .02
Ture. the thing I like about the SR20 one is that you cna use the hart sheild and it looks 100% stock (essentially it is).

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motoman399
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WDRacing wrote:Just something to point out, the bottom mount SSAC manifold for the KA is the basically the same thing as the SR manifold. They place the turbo in the same spot, so you can use all the SR20 parts and not need to weld or ship any cast pieces. Shipping a heavy cast mani back and forth will cost almost as much as the SSAC mani itself.

Just my .02
haha just tryin to make a buck lol very true though wd. personally i wouldnt do the stock sr manifold route unless i was a welder. i would never pay anyone to do that when you can buy a tubular one that performs better for around the same price. but im here if you want

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WDRacing
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I'm a diy welder, just mig and some torch stuff. Every time I go out to weld something, I have to relearn what I'm doing...lol. My question is, how are you welding the cast? Do you heat it way up and then tig it? I've patched a few cast things, but they have always been ugly welds, function over form 100%

Have you seen/used Muggy Weld sticks? Used for braising and soldering, but they are absolutely amazing and even a blind monkey can get a really good flow going. I've seen those used to fill huge cracks/gaps etc and even join dissimilar metals like brass to alum.

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motoman399
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well in the case of our cars. they are not cast iron but are cast steel. cast iron is a thing of the past i have kinda learned.

to weld cast iron there are a couple ways that i know of. first with any way you do it you preheat the metal with a torch (can be propane or oxy acetylene) bevel the edges of the surface being welded. you can get some nickle rod and use a stick (arc) welder, or you can use a torch (oxy acetylene). or you can always braze it, but its not as strong as the weld. always use a torch to slowly cool it down after the weld and ping it with a pointy hammer.

now to weld cast steel the way i do it is also preheat the metal. bevel the edges being welded so i get full penetration, crank up the heat on my mig (wire feed) welder. and lay the ugliest bead ever lol. its really hard to make a pretty bead on anything cast because of all the air inside the metal. i see it as like a sponge. now you can also weld it with gas. and im sure you can arc it but i have never done it because my arc welder is well hardly a welder. lol only 70 amps but it was free!!

now i have never tried tig on anything but steel, stainless, and aluminum. never on anything cast so i cant shed any light on that. sorry. also i may be wrong about the cast steel but i dont think i am. if i am wrong it is much easier to weld the newer cast parts then the old cast parts. just make sure you always preheat the metal and cool it down with heat. sounds weird but you have to put a torch on it and slowly pull it away.

hope this has helped a little bit. good luck and if you have any questions feel free to email me. i would be happy to walk you throw it on the phone or something.

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motoman399
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WDRacing wrote:I'm a diy welder, just mig and some torch stuff. Every time I go out to weld something, I have to relearn what I'm doing...lol. My question is, how are you welding the cast? Do you heat it way up and then tig it? I've patched a few cast things, but they have always been ugly welds, function over form 100%
the only way to learn is to do it. and the only way to get better is to keep at it and try different stuff till something works (unless you have an instructor telling you what to do lol). i took some welding classes at the local college when i was in high school. and right out of high school i worked at a welding shop. so i got a lot of experience there. i also have to relearn tig every time i do it because i rarely weld with it, as to i dont own one because they are so damn expensive
WDRacing wrote:Have you seen/used Muggy Weld sticks? Used for braising and soldering, but they are absolutely amazing and even a blind monkey can get a really good flow going. I've seen those used to fill huge cracks/gaps etc and even join dissimilar metals like brass to alum.
and no i have never heard or seen these rods your talking about. do you have a link to them? im curious now.

i dont weld arc much mostly mig. but i have been know to burn a few rods into some clean beads


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