That's great newsa240sxpinoy wrote:update>>> still good and runnin! 15,000+ miles!
ummm i had issues with the spark plugs and it cause miss-firing but got NGK's and that fixed that problem. now all i know is my wack ebay bov that doesnt open at low boost and only high boost. planning on re-circulating it soon with a bosch bov off a saabneverlift wrote:nice update!SO any issues along the way? I had plenty of stumbles in the past, but keep on truckin
i actually havent been able to get around and get that done. i want to though!zenkiderek wrote:ever get around to dyno?
thanks! NICO helped me through my troubles!WDRacing wrote:
That's great news
i didnt know you had a pic of my engine bay! thanks man!Razi wrote:Here is his engine bay from a meet a while ago. He put on a SR manifold heat shield, nice and stealthy.
send me the mani and the flanges or both mani's and ill do it for 75 you pay shipping and i am a certified welder. i will guaranty it for 1 year money back!DMan II-40 wrote:I really like that manifold. How much do you think it would cost to get something like that done?
Ture. the thing I like about the SR20 one is that you cna use the hart sheild and it looks 100% stock (essentially it is).WDRacing wrote:Just something to point out, the bottom mount SSAC manifold for the KA is the basically the same thing as the SR manifold. They place the turbo in the same spot, so you can use all the SR20 parts and not need to weld or ship any cast pieces. Shipping a heavy cast mani back and forth will cost almost as much as the SSAC mani itself.
Just my .02
haha just tryin to make a buck lol very true though wd. personally i wouldnt do the stock sr manifold route unless i was a welder. i would never pay anyone to do that when you can buy a tubular one that performs better for around the same price. but im here if you wantWDRacing wrote:Just something to point out, the bottom mount SSAC manifold for the KA is the basically the same thing as the SR manifold. They place the turbo in the same spot, so you can use all the SR20 parts and not need to weld or ship any cast pieces. Shipping a heavy cast mani back and forth will cost almost as much as the SSAC mani itself.
Just my .02
the only way to learn is to do it. and the only way to get better is to keep at it and try different stuff till something works (unless you have an instructor telling you what to do lol). i took some welding classes at the local college when i was in high school. and right out of high school i worked at a welding shop. so i got a lot of experience there. i also have to relearn tig every time i do it because i rarely weld with it, as to i dont own one because they are so damn expensiveWDRacing wrote:I'm a diy welder, just mig and some torch stuff. Every time I go out to weld something, I have to relearn what I'm doing...lol. My question is, how are you welding the cast? Do you heat it way up and then tig it? I've patched a few cast things, but they have always been ugly welds, function over form 100%
and no i have never heard or seen these rods your talking about. do you have a link to them? im curious now.WDRacing wrote:Have you seen/used Muggy Weld sticks? Used for braising and soldering, but they are absolutely amazing and even a blind monkey can get a really good flow going. I've seen those used to fill huge cracks/gaps etc and even join dissimilar metals like brass to alum.