I'M done with starting this thing

[ZOMG.SR20]

ive Checked all the wires and they all go to where they're suppose too but im still 180* off in timing WTF!!! im out of options and ideas anybody with help?

the CAS has ben timed per FSM and the Ignitor is wired in correctly... i got it to run the other day but t wouldnt idle and would rev to 4k and just act like its hitting a revlimiter
Modified by ZOMG.SR20 at 11:23 AM 5/11/2009

[ZOMG.SR20]

edited OP

also ANYONE CHIME IN

[CSUPUEBLOTIM]

Okay so it sounds like you have all the electrical components timed right, but is the mechanical timing of the engine right? Do you have a picture of the timing chain installed with the camshafts?

[ZOMG.SR20]

ill take one tommorow

[Thrasher068]

Dont change a thing! untill u check this. Where did you get your ignitor chip? and where did it come off of. is it the SR20 or the Q45 due to wiring. Hope this helps. if not wire up the consol port to hook up a scanner to read it if not already done.

The Q45 did this to someones car earlyerhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...-ughh

I am having a MAF problem because no vacume threw the maf stong enough to pit the electonics.

[ZOMG.SR20]

its the early model ignitor y?

and that's my old thread.....

[Thrasher068]

Yeah sorry i was searching the forums and saw that a while back and rememberd it. If you dont have access to a timing light you can pull the valve cover off and see where the cam gears line up at and also the crank.

Also does it even fire or try or just spin and bog out.

[ZOMG.SR20]

it fires but not well enough ti start and stay running

[slidestyle69]

To determine it is 180 deg. out of time, have u been using a timing light on this? Well if u are and u have checked ur wiring and you feel completly comfortable with ur work, then take it out of time and put it back in and take pictures of the process and ur wiring so we can see everything and help more.

on another note, did u jus get this swap or have u had it for sum time and had it runing up to par?

[ZOMG.SR20]

just swapped awhile ago trying to get it running now

[slociv]

if it starts you are not 180 out. Are you sure you aligned the cas correctly (there are two different CAS align it with the right dot w/ the cap facing you). Just for s***s and giggles put the cas one tooth off on its gear (like one tooth to the left or right of the dot). See if this improves or makes things worse.

Also have you checked your fuel lines and tank for rust.

[ZOMG.SR20]

yes fuel is fine tank is fine lines are new

[slidestyle69]

the last swap i did one of the injectors was gummed up from setting up, and knowing this way earlier in the process of the swap would had saved me abunch of headsches. but i thought it was timing due to how shi** it was runing. so i timed it 3 times b4 realizing it had to be something else, the fp was priming and i could fuel flowing in the lines so i didnt think about it but check ur fuel and spark. unplug coil packs, and jus to be safe go ahead and re-time anyways...you dont want detonation bc ur timing was off a little bit

[ZOMG.SR20]

IT RUNS!!!!

but only when the fuel pump is unhooked and MAF plugged in but not attached to intake

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9aDb_9fNE4

the timing is SPOT on now
Modified by ZOMG.SR20 at 4:30 PM 5/16/2009

[slidestyle69]

it runs when the fuel pump is unhooked?

[ZOMG.SR20]

yes...... it idles but doesnt rev, and by unhook i mean remove fuse. and when I go to put the fuse back in the car dies.
Modified by ZOMG.SR20 at 10:29 PM 5/16/2009

[slidestyle69]

the fuel pump thing is mindbottling..but it sounds like its almost backwards, what i mean is that when u pull it,it should die rather than run. i dont know sounds like a wiring issue there and also i saw where u mentioned in a recent reply that u had the maf off but plugged up, that would cause it to not rev

[ZOMG.SR20]

BUT when everything is hooked up right the fuel pump unhooked trick doesn't work but when it is hooked up the reason it dies is it floods the motor and also ive already checked the fuel rail for leaky injectors

[Thrasher068]

try to cover the MAF with u r hand. See if it starts use your hand as a throttle plate and let some air into it. not alot if it start and runs u are having the same problem i am. sound stupid but worked for me and i am still testing why

[ZOMG.SR20]

I put a N60 maf in today to see if my MAF is bad and well it plugged in then I didnt hook it to the intake it ran tryed to put it in front of the intake it would die but it started with the fuel pump plugged in BUT the ECU wouldnt let the engine rev past 2500rpm and it wouldnt idle

[Thrasher068]

stock tune? or reprogramed to handle the new maf?

[ZOMG.SR20]

stock, i tryed a N60 because thats all i have

[Thrasher068]

Mine is doing the same thing. but the voltage for the n60 and the z32 are diffrent voltages then the SR20 and the KA24 MAF. I hooked up my consolt port an am using a scanner to see what it was doing and the voltage for the z32 maf was about 3v and the stock SR and KA maf was about .45 - .65 KOEO. Post a forum asking to barrow a stock MAF in your area. there are plenty of people out there that have an SR that will help or even have extras to sell.

OH!!! BTW what is the coolent temp sensor reading? I found out if they go bad like on mine it reads about -50 C witch turns out to be -250 F so it is dumping fuel!!! thinking it is cold out. If not new a parts place has one for about $15 it is located under intake next to the throttle body and is a 19mm deepwell socket to get loose. AKA 3/4

If that doesnt work zerothread/268436 do this and then see if anyone had a scanner that uses that addaptor. A privet mechanic should have something called a Snapon MODIS and it comes with the NISS-1 Connector. It does talk to the ECU but a you will need to wire it up either back under the steering colume or over by the ECU

Hope this helps alittle if u find out what fixes it post it up so we know

[ZOMG.SR20]

i changed the coolant temp sensor already

[Sil80315]

i never heard of a stock ecu running on a n60 maf with out some sort of engine managment. try getting the correct maf like a sohc maf from a ka24e

Just tow it to syracuse NY 4+ hours away to my shop and ill fix it for you

[Thrasher068]

Ok lets run down everything realy quick. What do u have in the engine, mod wise, what have u done in means of rebuild, and internals and then what u are as far as externals.

I know i have a MAF issue and possibly timing because i have BC cams and i hear they have to be timed themself with the 264 anyway with cam gears.

I Am going to reinstall the old cams when i get time if it isnt rainin out and let u know. When i unplug my MAF it runs for a few then cuts off.

Do your plugs get fuel fouled?

[Steady_One_S13]

yes...... it idles but doesnt rev, and by unhook i mean remove fuse. and when I go to put the fuse back in the car dies.

Modified by ZOMG.SR20 at 10:29 PM 5/16/2009

You said you checked all your wiring, but double check the wiring at the grey and brown plugs next to the battery. Make sure the black / pink wire is wiredcorrectly. Your fuel pump shouldn't come on with fuse removed. Something fishy there. You may have your wiring crossed somewhere.

Go stock maf and ecu. A bad maf will cause the sr to rev high and bog, and eventually die. If the maf works when you unplug it, then plug it inwhen engine is idling, and dies, then I'm willing to bet that the maf is at fault. I tried 3 stock sr20 mafs til it finally ran right.As for the CAS, set to specs according to the FSM.G/L

[ZOMG.SR20]

SOOO.... Break through..... decided id look at my ECU today im like ooohh.... screws let me remove this and that then i opened it well to my surprise guess what jumps out at me....... A DAUGHTERBOARD!!!! =] so now starts the game of trying to figure out wat this tune is for

[Sil80315]

show me pictures. chances are its prolly tuned for bigger injectors and or z32 maf. you could either detune it and run stock maf or yes you can take a shot in the dark and guess.

[ZOMG.SR20]

can you tell with just pictures