cmon guys i need a bit of help with my 2 replies previous to this one
I'm doing my timing chain and I ran into a roadblock, please help
Woah, Leo, your keyways pointing straight down your engine is NOT at TDC. Only if both of them are pointing straight UP is it at TDC. With them both pointing straight down and the dot on the cam sprocket at 9 o'clock, you are at Bottom Dead Center. Again, like i said, just worry about getting the crank bolt off for now. Ill go out after it stops raining in a bit and see what size it is for you. Once that is off, you can rotate the assembly so the keyways are pointing UP so that the engine is at TDC compression on #1.
Lets see if this works:
This is a rough layout of what your timing chain kit will look like AFTER it is installed. Because before it is, you may or may not have the silver links lined up with the dots on the sprockets. That doesnt matter. Right now it doesnt even matter if your are at TDC or not. When you install the chain, make sure BOTH keyways are pointing straight up. If you have to rotate either crank or cam to do so, loosen the rocker arm shafts.
You have to look closely to see the silver links, but the cam link is at the 3 o'clock position, lined up with the small dot on the sprocket. And the crank is almost 5 o'clock, again lined up with the dot on the sprocket.
This is a rough layout of what your timing chain kit will look like AFTER it is installed. Because before it is, you may or may not have the silver links lined up with the dots on the sprockets. That doesnt matter. Right now it doesnt even matter if your are at TDC or not. When you install the chain, make sure BOTH keyways are pointing straight up. If you have to rotate either crank or cam to do so, loosen the rocker arm shafts.
You have to look closely to see the silver links, but the cam link is at the 3 o'clock position, lined up with the small dot on the sprocket. And the crank is almost 5 o'clock, again lined up with the dot on the sprocket.
Lastly, there is a half moon inside the distributor shaft that will mate up with the half moon from the oil pump shaft. Be sure to visually inspect that these 2 will go together! I had my distributor set at #4 and FORCED it onto the shaft, destroying my crank angle sensor and making me wait another 2 weeks to start my car while i bought a used one. Sorry about this pic, it focused on my hand instead of the shaft, but you should get the idea.
Again, i cannot stress enough, it doesnt matter how you take it apart, as long as the crank and cam rotate together WHILE THE CHAIN IS STILL ON. If you have removed the chain and need to rotate one or the other, then loosen the rocker arm shafts to close the valves. Taking it apart, it doesnt matter where TDC is or much else for that matter. BUT putting it back together it matters tremendously!! And you can set it to TDC while apart, quite easily i might add. Definately easier than worrying if you accidently bumped it while taking it apart. Just worry about when it goes back together.
Seriously, i do not mind at all helping you out. Please keep us posted how its going and by all means, ask more questions. Chances are, ive been there, done that!
Seriously, i do not mind at all helping you out. Please keep us posted how its going and by all means, ask more questions. Chances are, ive been there, done that!
if you were here, you'd have a very ice cold beer in your hand! 
ok, i'm gettin the socket for the crank pulley bolt tonight, and possibly a breaker. i have my own trick to get that sucker off.
now heres the thing i need to understand, if i have to rotate her now to get to TDC, so the keyways are pointing straight up, as long as the chain is on i need not to have to loosen the rocker arm bolts. this is what i plan on doing.
but if i had to turn it with no chain, that is when i have to make sure i loosen those bolts. even for small pic s they are comin in slooooooooooooow but it is so much appreciated.
once i get that crank pulley bolt off, er almost off I'll make sure those keyways are facing straight up...
the fact that i now know i can rotate that engine without any worry i'm feeling better. i thought once you removed the distributor and oil pump you weren't suppose to rotate the engine.
thanks again for you patience and help. i will keep you posted throughout tonight.
lbrowne
ok, i'm gettin the socket for the crank pulley bolt tonight, and possibly a breaker. i have my own trick to get that sucker off.
now heres the thing i need to understand, if i have to rotate her now to get to TDC, so the keyways are pointing straight up, as long as the chain is on i need not to have to loosen the rocker arm bolts. this is what i plan on doing.
but if i had to turn it with no chain, that is when i have to make sure i loosen those bolts. even for small pic s they are comin in slooooooooooooow
but it is so much appreciated.once i get that crank pulley bolt off, er almost off I'll make sure those keyways are facing straight up...
the fact that i now know i can rotate that engine without any worry i'm feeling better. i thought once you removed the distributor and oil pump you weren't suppose to rotate the engine.
thanks again for you patience and help. i will keep you posted throughout tonight.
lbrowne
Well well well, heres the latest.
Crank pulley off, got an impact 27m socket and a 2 foot breaker bar. gf got in and put the car in 5th and held the brake. GET THIS, one hand, one arm, i got it off. I got over to the passenger side of the car and pulled. pulley then came off no sweat, without the pulley puller tool being used at all. i just i'll be taking it back
i now have everything on, new chain, lower sprocket, guides, and the tensioner in place and set to tension. i didn't change the upper sprocket because it is in great shape, no different than my new one. ( i know some will say change it anyways...)
it really looks like this cover was off before, because there doesnt seem to be a front part to the oil pan gasket, but sealant is there instead. i have plenty of blue rtv sealant to put her back together.
this feels like such an accomplishment so far. i have to pick up my new waterpump tomorrow, and my new belts. (also some new coolant and more oil)
i'll be needing help once i get to the critical lining up stage. right now my keyways are poitning straight up, my light colored chain links are on the amting marks. its all good to go.
Crank pulley off, got an impact 27m socket and a 2 foot breaker bar. gf got in and put the car in 5th and held the brake. GET THIS, one hand, one arm, i got it off. I got over to the passenger side of the car and pulled. pulley then came off no sweat, without the pulley puller tool being used at all. i just i'll be taking it back
i now have everything on, new chain, lower sprocket, guides, and the tensioner in place and set to tension. i didn't change the upper sprocket because it is in great shape, no different than my new one. ( i know some will say change it anyways...)
it really looks like this cover was off before, because there doesnt seem to be a front part to the oil pan gasket, but sealant is there instead. i have plenty of blue rtv sealant to put her back together.
this feels like such an accomplishment so far. i have to pick up my new waterpump tomorrow, and my new belts. (also some new coolant and more oil)
i'll be needing help once i get to the critical lining up stage. right now my keyways are poitning straight up, my light colored chain links are on the amting marks. its all good to go.
before i went to bed at 1 am heres whats done:
New front oil seal on, all timing chain stuff is done. cleaned all the old gasket out of the grooves of the front cover, and out of the front of the oil pan. put my blue rtv sealant around the edges of everything and slid it back on.
checked to make sure it was all lined up, a tap here and a tap there ...done. now its bolted on.
the car is still at TDC, the keyways pointing straight up. new thermostat installed, i'm picking up my new waterpump tonight and belts. Plus I'm returning that pulley puller since mine came off so easily, i used just my hands to get it off.
so now for putting the oil pump back, and the distributor, just make sure they line up perfectly and the half moons connect, my distributor is already at number 1, so I'm now set right? Just basically putting her back together is all thats left?
New front oil seal on, all timing chain stuff is done. cleaned all the old gasket out of the grooves of the front cover, and out of the front of the oil pan. put my blue rtv sealant around the edges of everything and slid it back on.
checked to make sure it was all lined up, a tap here and a tap there ...done. now its bolted on.
the car is still at TDC, the keyways pointing straight up. new thermostat installed, i'm picking up my new waterpump tonight and belts. Plus I'm returning that pulley puller since mine came off so easily, i used just my hands to get it off.
so now for putting the oil pump back, and the distributor, just make sure they line up perfectly and the half moons connect, my distributor is already at number 1, so I'm now set right? Just basically putting her back together is all thats left?
she won't start 
just turns over and over. i got *everything* back the way i took it off.
keyways were pointing straight up, but i think i know what the problem is.
i put the oil pump and distributor back exactly the way i took it off. *but* i'm thinking that maybe i never had the distributor pointing to number one, because maybe i was looking at it wrong, in fact i'm certain thats what i did. cuz i never had the engine at tdc like you mentioned, and then i turned her to tdc after i took the distributor out. i put the distributor back the way i took it out meaing it was basically pointing diagonally from number one, which ever that is...
please help, i tried her three times with no go, so i stopped. the only other problem i have is a cracked t-stat housing. i'll be getting another one soon.
but i really think that maybe i never had the distributor pointing to number one, is there a way to quickly fix this?
please help
just turns over and over. i got *everything* back the way i took it off.
keyways were pointing straight up, but i think i know what the problem is.
i put the oil pump and distributor back exactly the way i took it off. *but* i'm thinking that maybe i never had the distributor pointing to number one, because maybe i was looking at it wrong, in fact i'm certain thats what i did. cuz i never had the engine at tdc like you mentioned, and then i turned her to tdc after i took the distributor out. i put the distributor back the way i took it out meaing it was basically pointing diagonally from number one, which ever that is...
please help, i tried her three times with no go, so i stopped. the only other problem i have is a cracked t-stat housing. i'll be getting another one soon.
but i really think that maybe i never had the distributor pointing to number one, is there a way to quickly fix this?
please help
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bruinbear714
- Posts: 1159
- Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 9:58 pm
- Contact:
you probably have your timing off... did you align the red mark on the crank pulley to the needle on the cover? Was the rectangular notch pointing up, and the two shiney chain links on the dots on the sprockets?
That should line up the crank and cam, but you also need to line up the distributor timing. The distrib. rotor should be pointing to about 5 oclock when everything is lined up correctly. Also make sure you have the correct spark plug wires in the correct socket.
I remember 5oclock, but just to make sure look at your distributor cap to see which wire is #1 - the rotor should point in that general direction.
That should line up the crank and cam, but you also need to line up the distributor timing. The distrib. rotor should be pointing to about 5 oclock when everything is lined up correctly. Also make sure you have the correct spark plug wires in the correct socket.
I remember 5oclock, but just to make sure look at your distributor cap to see which wire is #1 - the rotor should point in that general direction.
i have all the notches (keyways) for the cam sprockets pointing straight up, and the light coloured chain links on the sprocket where the lil dots were. i just rechecked my wires, number 1 is in the front of the engine and 4 is as the back, they're all plugged in correctly.
i think what i have done is, my distributor was pointing #4 and not #1 when i took it off. i wasn't at TDC when i took them out, but got the motor at TDC after.
i never lined up my crank pulley, there was only one way it would go on, with its notch pointing straight up like the cam sprockets. either wya i took all that stuff off and put it back on exactly the same way. unless after i tightened the crank pulley bolt real hard it misaligned it...but i doubt that.
but i'm certain i have that distributor out of sync, she was definitely pointing to number 4 and not number one, stupid me read the rotor arm thing wrong.
i'm searching archives for help right now, i really need this car running.
any help is appreciated.
:help :help
i think what i have done is, my distributor was pointing #4 and not #1 when i took it off. i wasn't at TDC when i took them out, but got the motor at TDC after.
i never lined up my crank pulley, there was only one way it would go on, with its notch pointing straight up like the cam sprockets. either wya i took all that stuff off and put it back on exactly the same way. unless after i tightened the crank pulley bolt real hard it misaligned it...but i doubt that.
but i'm certain i have that distributor out of sync, she was definitely pointing to number 4 and not number one, stupid me read the rotor arm thing wrong.
i'm searching archives for help right now, i really need this car running.
any help is appreciated.
:help :help
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bruinbear714
- Posts: 1159
- Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 9:58 pm
- Contact:
There are two shiney chain links.. one goes to the dot on the cam sprocket and the other to the dot on the crankshaft sprocket.
If the rotor is pointing to 4, then u will need to pull out the distributor shaft again. If you do that, there are markings on the oil pump and the shaft. Line up those two marks and put the distributor back in. It should point to spark plug wire #1.
If the rotor is pointing to 4, then u will need to pull out the distributor shaft again. If you do that, there are markings on the oil pump and the shaft. Line up those two marks and put the distributor back in. It should point to spark plug wire #1.
You're sure the sprockets only have 1 dot each? I've seen sprockets with 2 dots at 180 degrees, so you had to look for the dowel pin in the sprocket to know which was the correct dot. If you don't think any valves hit any pistons, then your chain's probably fine...just like what's been said--spark timing's off and you're not in too bad a mess. Disappointing, but I think you're almost there and it'll feel really good when you're done.I should have mentioned this earlier, but when you do a timing chain you should always turn the crankshaft 2 full revolutions by hand (slowly and carefully) before cranking it to check for interferences. If you fix the spark and it still doesn't start up, then you'll need to do a compression check on each cylinder to take a quick and easy pulse of your cam/crankshaft timing.
i know theres 2 of those links, and they're all lined up exactly where they should be, i was very certain in making sure they were
i've put oil in the car since i thought everything was final, i don't have to drain that all again do i?
i'll pull the distributor, leave everything as is, rotate the engine so that my cam sprocket is pointing straight up i guess (spose i ahve to pull that valve cover)
then pull the oil pump, line up the punch marks, slide it back in, and then slide the distributor back in...
sound right? is there a faster way to make sure shes at TDC?
thnx for your help!
lbrowne
sprockets had one dot each yup. i had those pieces on pound for pound the way they shoulda been. so is what i typed above what i need to do?
i've put oil in the car since i thought everything was final, i don't have to drain that all again do i?
i'll pull the distributor, leave everything as is, rotate the engine so that my cam sprocket is pointing straight up i guess (spose i ahve to pull that valve cover)
then pull the oil pump, line up the punch marks, slide it back in, and then slide the distributor back in...
sound right? is there a faster way to make sure shes at TDC?
thnx for your help!
lbrowne
sprockets had one dot each yup. i had those pieces on pound for pound the way they shoulda been. so is what i typed above what i need to do?
lbrowne wrote:sound right? is there a faster way to make sure shes at TDC?
A lot of cars have timing marks on the crankshaft pulley that line up with a dowel or something on the timing cover. One of the marks on the pulley indicates 0 degrees. Just line it up with the timing cover mark. Should be a good method to within less than a degree if you have the marks and can find out which are the right ones.
the second one from the left is ) TDC from what i've found in the archives, i'll go see if i ahve those marks and turn the engine to it.
then its out with the oil pump and distributor and re-align them...
theres a couple of questions still not answered in my recent replies, guess i'll find them out for myself here now
then its out with the oil pump and distributor and re-align them...
theres a couple of questions still not answered in my recent replies, guess i'll find them out for myself here now