Hydrolocked. I pulled the plugs and it is still locked up. Help!!!

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Yogi'sQ45
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I have a 94 Q45 with 160,000 miles. I changed the #1 & #8 injectors and put on too small of lower o-rings; they came from NAPA. I read the thread talking about the lower o-rings allowing too much fuel into the cylinder and locking up the engine. I did as it said, I replaced the o-rings and the injectors popped back in perfectly and I pulled the plugs. When I tried to crank it over for a few seconds it wouldn't. I put a socket on the front and tried to turn it manually, but it wouldn't budge. Now what? I would appreciate any and all help. Thanks!


maxnix
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Yogi’sQ45 wrote:I ... put on too small of lower o-rings; they came from NAPA. I read the thread talking about the lower o-rings allowing too much fuel into the cylinder and locking up the engine.
Probably bent your rods.

All the plugs are out and you evacuated the cylinders?

Yogi'sQ45
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Yes, all 8 plugs are out. How do I evacuate the cylinders, it won't turn over? Thanks for replying.

qship96
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If plugs are out and it still wont spin while turning the key, or using a socket on pully- chances are you have major internal engine damage.

maxnix
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Sad but true.

In Joe we trust.

Haitian_King
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qship96 wrote:If plugs are out and it still wont spin while turning the key, or using a socket on pully- chances are you have major internal engine damage.
Wow. F*uck.

Holy ****. I'm stunned by this info. OMG.

This isn't anything that can be repaired without opening up the engine block right? At this point would it just be best to get a new (rehabbed) one?

RAP
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Yogi’sQ45 wrote:I have a 94 Q45 with 160,000 miles. I changed the #1 & #8 injectors and put on too small of lower o-rings; they came from NAPA. I read the thread talking about the lower o-rings allowing too much fuel into the cylinder and locking up the engine. I did as it said, I replaced the o-rings and the injectors popped back in perfectly and I pulled the plugs. When I tried to crank it over for a few seconds it wouldn't. I put a socket on the front and tried to turn it manually, but it wouldn't budge. Now what? I would appreciate any and all help. Thanks!
Now here is a mystery for me? Pray tell, how would o-rings, of any size, affect the amount of fuel being injected into an engine? I did not read the 0-ring thread but the amount of fuel injected into any engine is a function of the ECU or am I missing something here?

Jack

Q45tech
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The fuel rail, filter, and lines under pressure hold liters, when you don't entirely remove rail or at least relieve pressure, massive quanities of gasoline fall into cylinder when you remove an injector for service.

56 cc [4 ounces] is enough to hydrolock a cylinder and the system hold 10 times that at minimum!

Common failure when owners or mechanics destroy engines by lack of training and education.

Side feed injectors are very different from top feed injectors and lack of experience can do you in quickly

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elwesso
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why you always pressure test the rail before you put it back together..!

Definitely if you have all 8 plugs out and it still wont crank then you have some serious issues...

Haitian_King
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Q45tech wrote:The fuel rail, filter, and lines under pressure hold liters, when you don't entirely remove rail or at least relieve pressure, massive quanities of gasoline fall into cylinder when you remove an injector for service.

56 cc [4 ounces] is enough to hydrolock a cylinder and the system hold 10 times that at minimum!

Common failure when owners or mechanics destroy engines by lack of training and education.

Side feed injectors are very different from top feed injectors and lack of experience can do you in quickly
Wow. Guess who's not doing his own #6 injector? This guy.

I'm not ready to do it yet.

Q45tech
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Owners and incompetent mechanics [those who don't frequently work on Q weekly] often create serious damage and terminate the life of the vehicle.

We see it all the time when Q are flatbedded in from other shops.

Yogi'sQ45
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GREAT!!! So does that mean bent rods? Whats the average cost for that? I guess I'll have to have it towed to my mechanic. I've replace 2 other injectors before with no problems, but the o-rings came from an online parts company. What recourse is there for NAPA selling me the wrong o-rings? After looking at them side by side they are definitely smaller. Thanks.

qship96
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I would not let your Mechanic attempt an engine rebuild...either purchase a junkyard engine and install, or may be safer, quicker, and less hassle to just start over with finding a replacement Q in good condition and parting yours out or haul away to graveyard.

Autoparts store wont provide any relief, up to you to double, triple check part you bought BEFORE installing it. NAPA is CRAPPA...why you ALWAYS pony up the few extra dollars for Genuine Infiniti replacement parts,ALWAYS

Yogi'sQ45
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Tough lesson learned on that aspect. I'll check for a replacement engine. This really sucks! The sad part is; when I was removing the plugs, the #4 plug was not seated and the chamber was charred and that was the cause for the poor engine performance. Thanks for everyone's help.

Q45tech
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If your mechanic hasn't replaced a dozen Q engines, I would find someone who has.

JDM junkyard takeout engines require new chain guides, exhaust manifold swaps, oil pan removal, clean and reseal, and frequently other swaps plus of course new knock sensors and harness plus all new [35] plenum hoses to be functional and ready to provide service.

We spend 10-12-14 hours [$1200 in parts] on the JDM engine on the engine stand prior to the swap being ready.

A Proper swap with a $1500 delivered good engine will cost $1200 minimum in new parts and 20-25 hours of labor..............$4000-$4900.

See what your actions cost you, trying to cheap out will just create another failure soon.

1994 and later engines are a little less expensive because you can skip chain guides and oil pan cleaning if you are sure the engine is low mileage and really really clean inside SAVING about $500 reducing cost to $4,000-$4100.

Q45tech
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Why shops want a 2 year trade school degree [ASEE] or proof of a few years excellent work history.

A novice technican/mechanic can cause thousands worth of damages when his supervisor turns his head.

Just because they have $25,000 in tools and a pretty box is not good evidence.

Believe me we have hired so called expert Honda and Toyota technican [years ago] who literally destroyed multiple Q in a few days before we caught the errors of their ways. They cost us $3,000 and $5,000 in the first week of employment..................and they were so called Master Techs.

Can you imagine the education level of Quicky Lube or other fast change places..........even WolMart. The all aluminum , interfearence V8, with 90's technology makes their head swim and they need a few joints to calm themselves...............or a snort of Crystal to forget about all the bad habits they learned at a previous shop.

Q45tech
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For $85 [paid on credit card] we can give your technican a short 25 question test over the phone to determine his/her qualifications to replace a Q engine /transmission or work on one. Missing 3 or more is a failure!

Every single question will have been revealed in my previous 10,000 posts.

I'm not positive that any of the shops CA or NJ will pass? Without looking things up in FSM.

superuber
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First mistake he made was NOT to buy oe parts.

ScottJackson
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It sounds like #4 cylinder had a burnt plug. If a boroscope isn't available, at least pour some diesel in that spark plug hole to cover the top of the piston. Let it sit for a bit. Then take the breaker bar on the crank bolt and try rocking it back and forth (clockwise and counterclock) to see if it'll free up. If it does, crank the engine a bit with the starter, compression test the cylinders, and if all are decent, put plugs in it and try to start it. Here's another thought, always use the K.I.S.S. principle (keep it simple, stupid). Is there a chance the starter is bound up in the flex plate? Loosen the starter up and slide it out of its hole a ways. This will eliminate that possibility.


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bullittandy
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Yogi, sounds like your engine is dead, think about how nice this car could be and decide whether to invest a ton of money in it.

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Rex
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I cleaned this up, lets keep things on topic

ScottJackson
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Thanks. I got a bit out of hand in my post which was trying to address the getting out of handedness of the thread. And Haitian was right, it was someone else who previously had become unnecessarily defensive. So I apologize.

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Rex
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Please feel free to voice any displeasure with the Moderation of any section of NICO to any/all the Admin team via emailGreg (AZhitman) - [email protected] (audtatious) - [email protected] (Repo Man) - [email protected] (EZcheese15) - [email protected] (Dano) - [email protected]

There's no need to clutter up someone else's thread.Thanks

maxnix
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Q45tech wrote:... they need a few joints to calm themselves.
"The problem with you kids is you missed the sixties." - Hunter S. Thompson

oldmako
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Whoa! What did I miss??

Sorry to hear about your car dude.

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WDRacing
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maxnix wrote:
"The problem with you kids is you missed the sixties." - Hunter S. Thompson
Hunter S is the man...err was

Yogi'sQ45
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Thanks for your condolences. Rex, thanks for keeping things on topic for this thread. I received some good info from this thread and hopefully save my car and somebody else's. If anything positive comes about, I'll let you know.

maxnix
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I think if you cannot get the crank to budge, you ought to read all of Q45tech's posts on how T-3 selects and reahabilitates an JDM takeout. While these can be rebuilt, most shops are not capable of maintaining the OEM specifications. It is most definitely not a SBC.

Good luck and let us know how you progress.

Yogi'sQ45
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Sorry for my ignorance, but what do the acronyms JDm and SBC stand for?

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bullittandy
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Yogi, ask all the questions you want!!!!!!!

These are very nice cars but require alot of money to keep them up. For perspective, imagine if someone gave you this car brand new through a time capsule-would you like it? If so, then plan to spend a bunch of money to make it right and there are plenty of people who will help you here.

Again, your engine is almost certainly toast but you can buy engines all day long for $1200-$2000 and if you plan on spending a little bit more money you can prevent all of the problems that are inherent on the engine (valve cover gaskets, plenum hoses, knock sensors) and you will have an engine that will LITERALLY go another 150K miles with little more than oil changes.

Good luck!!


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