Yikes Ned Beatty Style! Gotta Love Firestone, FYI their database shows 3.3 V6 Nissan Pathfinder as taking 5.3 quarts.... Embarrassed to even admit I took my Path there for an oil change....wisehunter1 wrote:Took it to the firestone and they charged me $490 to replace rotors and pads.... I definitely got sodomized.
Hey Town why was it hard to get the seal off for the inner bearing? After you saw the shop do it did you figure it out? I would like to replace my outer bearings and was thinking maybe I should do the inners as well if it's not too much of a headache.Towncivilian wrote:I bought:My buddy and I replaced the driver's side brake rotors, pads, and regreased the inner and outer bearings today. We ran short on time (started too late) so we'll do the passenger side on Wednesday.
- Wagner ThermoQuiet brake pads and shoes (for when I do the rear shoes later) (there's a $20 rebate going on for them)
- Wearever rotors (hell, all the rotors will rust anyway, why bother with the more expensive ones)
The bottom caliper bracket bolt was stuck. A generous portion of PB Blaster and a cheater bar eventually loosened it.
The hub cap came off easy with a screwdriver and a hammer without damage. The lock washer similarly came out easily with a knife blade.
I had no luck finding a wheel bearing lock nut tool anywhere. NAPA, Bennett's, Advanced Auto ... nowhere. I asked a service adviser at my local dealer and he basically just told me to go look at NAPA etc. I ended up using a screwdriver and a hammer - it was barely tight.
We also had trouble removing the inner bearing grease seal, and so we ended up going to a shop and they pulled the seal off for free. I bought two new Beck/Arnley inner bearing grease seals from Bennett's for $11 each - the dealer was out of stock and would've needed to order from the warehouse, and I needed them today. We regreased the bearings and the spindle with Amsoil synthetic multi-purpose NLGI #2 grease, which I found at a local NAPA, without an issue. It's impossible to reverse the orientation of the wheel bearings, they only fit one way. My wheel bearings were Timken brand. Is Timken the OEM supplier for the wheel bearings?
We had trouble torquing the rotor to hub bolts, the rotor kept ... well, rotating - we had it on the ground while one of us held the rotor down and the other torqued it - we eventually got it within spec (40 ft/lbs). Any hints on how to torque those easier?
With the rotor & hub assembly back on the spindle, we torqued the wheel bearing lock nut as best we could with a screwdriver and a hammer, then rotated the rotor for a while in each direction, then backed it off to finger-tight (per the Haynes' manual), rotated the rotor in each direction again, and tightened back to finger-tight, then installed the lock washer and screwed it in. Was this done properly? We followed the Haynes manual to the letter, except we didn't measure the axial play or preload adjustment.
The calipers installed without a hitch after we compressed the brake pistons again - I made sure to lube the shims, retaining clips, and slide pins with NAPA Sil-Glyde.
No strange noises or anything, thankfully, and the brake pedal already feels noticeable firmer. I'll have a shop check it out tomorrow regardless to make sure we didn't miss anything obvious - you can never be too sure!
I never could get the axle shaft to push out enough to drop the snap ring in place outboard of the hub on the drivers side. Finally installed it in the other groove that sits just outside of the wheel bearing locknut. I can't see how that would cause any problems. On the passenger side, the snap ring wasn't even installed in the groove. While removing the cap, the whole hub assembly popped off with the snap ring sitting in the cap. Haven't reassembled that one yet to see if I can get it in the outer groove.Empty V wrote:Not much, here's a diagram.asnorton44 wrote:What extra steps are involved for a 4X4?
Basically you pop the hub cap, remove the snap ring, then the drive flange nuts, then the drive flange. everything form there on out is identical with one exception. When you're putting everything back together you have to push the CV towards the outside so the axle pushes out. Without doing this you wont have enough room for the snap ring to sit in the groove. Basically you'll grab the CV boot (accordion like protector) and pull it towards you.
We did this last Saturday and for about 30min looked at it trying to figure out why the slot for the snap ring wasn't exposed. At first we thought we hadn't pushed the hub assembly far back enough onto the axle so we started disassembling it and tried to force the outer bearing in deeper. Then we saw the axle move and face palmed ourselves.
Empty V wrote:Yeah I was asking Nissan if they could sell me the tool and they couldn't even look it up. Pretty lame how the FSM even has the tool part number and no one knows how to get it. I think there's adjustable ones out there but haven't found any as of yet. I thought that the service manual says to torque the bearing lock nut to 70lbs then back it off. If I don't take off this weekend I'll probably pull everything apart and re-pack. Do the inner-bearings use an outter cover?ianh wrote:
The inner bearings are easily accessible, you pop the rear seal out and the bearing falls out.
Putting a new seal back in however is more difficult.
I suggest you add a note about torque-ing the locking plate to 70 ft lbs when a bearing race is replaced. This is to seat the bearing race so the pre-load doesn't go out of adjustment later if the race moves.
I have been searching for a tool for days, finally found some, it really matters on the words used when searching !!!Will try to get from Napa tonight. If successful will post the part number.
Unfortunately one of my axle to spindle needle bearings is lose, will take a look to see how bad it is tonight. NOTE its a 4WD !!!
Billy