How To: Replace Brake Rotors and Pads for 2001 QX4/Pathfinder

[Empty V]

Excellent write up and pictures. I wish this had existed when I did my rotors and brakes a year ago. I would have been much more confident tackling this job with your pictures in hand. I am sure a lot of forum members will benefit from your effort.

I am the member that wrote about the rotor bolts breaking in an earlier post. When I installed my new rotors, a total of 4 rotor bolts sheared off while tightening them with a torque wrench. I have reason to believe the PO had over torqued them but the dealership parts guy told me they replace a lot of these in the shop. I would recommend having some spares before tackling this job unless you live near a very good source of hardened metric bolts. Fortunately, I do. There is an industrial supply house called McMaster Carr and their warehouse is in my hometown. They also have a very good web site and ship promptly. Great source for metric bolts.

Thanks! It's such an easy job if you have the right tool. Do you know the McMaster part number for those bolts? I'll put up a link in case someone wants to pick up some extras. We order from them daily and always receive shipment next day, what an awesome company!

Billy

[sicwitit]

it should be ok, as long as it fit on your truck, there should be no prob.

shoot me an email at 1sicwitit@gmail.com so we can work out the finance part.

JT

[rydebynite]

So if I am looking at these directions correctly and from the instructions. You should be able to swap out the rotors w/ out having to remove the bearings from the hub assembly? You don't need to have no special press machine or anything?

[korbeano89]

im tryint to remove my rotors iv got the lock ring off and it wont budge do i need a puller?

[Natedogg1701]

i agree with every1 who said drums and shoes suck! i want to convert the rear brakes to disk but the odds dont loom to good. ive thought about getting the rear end out of another vehicle that has rear disk breaks, and preferably higher gears than 4.36's. hase anyone heard of or done a rear disk conversion on an R50?

[Empty V]

So if I am looking at these directions correctly and from the instructions. You should be able to swap out the rotors w/ out having to remove the bearings from the hub assembly? You don't need to have no special press machine or anything?

You do not need a press for anything when it comes to replacing pads and rotors. The first time I did this the rotors were on the hubs pretty good and I had to slam them on the ground to separate them. If you're going through the trouble of doing this job don't half-a** it and bypass re-packing the bearings. It doesn't add that much time onto the job and is well worth it. BUT if you can separate the rotors while they're mounted then you're good. Again, I suggest doing the bearings as well.

Billy
Modified by Empty V at 3:02 PM 10/24/2009

[Empty V]

im tryint to remove my rotors iv got the lock ring off and it wont budge do i need a puller?

I could be a nice guy and help you even though you're a complete c*** bag or I could just let you sweat like most people would do. Take 5min and read the walkthrough again. If you can't figure it out from those instructions then chances are you're not competent enough to do this, which is sad and I'm guessing your mom drank when she was pregnant. Good luck!

Billy

[korbeano89]

mine is a 97 and the pics dont look the same, im probably just going to take it to my mechanic that charges like $20 an hour, and i guess owe you an apology, iv been home for a week, scenes my car broke and i think iv been in a bad mood.

[Empty V]

mine is a 97 and the pics dont look the same, im probably just going to take it to my mechanic that charges like $20 an hour, and i guess owe you an apology, iv been home for a week, scenes my car broke and i think iv been in a bad mood.

It's cool dude. Just look in your FSM, the procedure should be in there.

Billy

[ozarkman]

Is this the correct tool to remove the axle spindle nut?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-7698/

[longhornsqx4]

Im sure you have something in your toolbox to crack it loose with and spin it off... $30 tool aint worth it

[ozarkman]

Im sure you have something in your toolbox to crack it loose with and spin it off... $30 tool aint worth it

I'm just hoping to be able to beg, borrow, or forgive me...purchace the right tool. I'm not worried about geting it loose, but if I need to torque it down, that's hard to do with a punch and hammer. I thought about building my own but that would probably cost me more in time. Unless you really don't need the tool, and just tighten it up like old school castle nuts and then back it off till it rolls?

[Empty V]

I'm just hoping to be able to beg, borrow, or forgive me...purchace the right tool. I'm not worried about geting it loose, but if I need to torque it down, that's hard to do with a punch and hammer. I thought about building my own but that would probably cost me more in time. Unless you really don't need the tool, and just tighten it up like old school castle nuts and then back it off till it rolls?

You really need an adjustable spanner tool with a 1/2" socket adapter. I've been looking this tool for bout a year with no avail. I've even got the part number from the FSM and taken it to dealer and they can't order it as if I was one of their mechanics. So I basically torqued the wheel bearing lock nut with 2 screw drivers as far as it would go then backed it off slightly. If that socket fit, which I have no idea if it does, then it would work great. The spacing between opposing holes needs to be measured.

Billy

[timmack]

Step 14: Torque the wheel bearing lock nut to 70lbs Rotate the rotor 5 times in each direction and loosen the wheel bearing lock nut to 0lbs.

ok someone please point out my brain fart to me....if i back that lock nut off to 0lbs, its gonna be almost all the way off, right? what am i missing besides a beer to help me see this straight?

[Empty V]

Step 14: Torque the wheel bearing lock nut to 70lbs Rotate the rotor 5 times in each direction and loosen the wheel bearing lock nut to 0lbs.

ok someone please point out my brain fart to me....if i back that lock nut off to 0lbs, its gonna be almost all the way off, right? what am i missing besides a beer to help me see this straight?

When you tighten it to 70lbs you're really pressing the bearing in. when you back it off you're only pulling it back probably a 1/2 turn. You've got a lot more threads before you're backing it out completely.

Hope this makes sense.

Billy

[timmack]

Gotcha, thanks for clearing that up. it just seemed that when i was reading it, backing it off to 0lbs would take it almost all the way off. nice write up btw. gonna do a brake job and bearing replacement this weekend if the kids give me a chance to.

[sewanee06]

Hello All,

First of all, thanks Billy for the awesome step by step!! I've got an 03 Pathy and I'm getting ready to replace front pads and rotors. I'm trying to keep the parts cost for the whole operation around $300-$350. Suggestions on brands, models?Am I safe in assuming that the step by step posted here applies to the 03 as well as the 01?

Thanks in advance for any assistance!!!

~Jeff

[Empty V]

Hello All,

First of all, thanks Billy for the awesome step by step!! I've got an 03 Pathy and I'm getting ready to replace front pads and rotors. I'm trying to keep the parts cost for the whole operation around $300-$350. Suggestions on brands, models?Am I safe in assuming that the step by step posted here applies to the 03 as well as the 01?

Thanks in advance for any assistance!!!

~Jeff

Hey Jeff no sweat, glad to be of help. I used

DBA Slotted Brake Rotors 629SL + 629SREBC Yellow Stuff Brake PadsBeck Arnley 051-2683 Wheel Bearings

I bought the rotors from a local shop called Man-A-Fre but you can order from them online or over the phone. I got the Pads from Summit Racing and the bearings off of Amazon. I shopped around a lot and those were the best deals I could find. All of those components are an upgrade from OEM. You get a little squealing the first 2 depressions when the pads are cold but that's normal.

If you haven't read through the entire thread I highly recommend it because there's lots of good info other members have submitted. Such as recommending bleeding the brake lines and replacing the inner bearings as well.

Billy
Modified by Empty V at 10:40 AM 3/19/2010

[sewanee06]

Thanks again. I have another question...I was checking the rotors last night and they seem fine, the pads are just worn down. They are after market rotors with holes and slots. My question is can I just replace the pads and be OK? I used to drive a Land Rover Discovery and was able to swap the pads only and had no problems...just wondering if it's possible here...

[Empty V]

Thanks again. I have another question...I was checking the rotors last night and they seem fine, the pads are just worn down. They are after market rotors with holes and slots. My question is can I just replace the pads and be OK? I used to drive a Land Rover Discovery and was able to swap the pads only and had no problems...just wondering if it's possible here...

If the rotors are worn perfectly even and haven't been turned yet then I would think you could just swap the pads but I suggest getting them turned(shaved) if they're still withing the minimum thickness.

Billy

[sewanee06]

OK. Dealer said you can't turn rotors with holes or slots in 'em, that they have to be replaced...is that an un-truth?

[ianh]

OK. Dealer said you can't turn rotors with holes or slots in 'em, that they have to be replaced...is that an un-truth?

Seems to me that I could turn them if i had a lathe....Why would this be a problem, yes a sharp tool and a fine cut would turn it... Ask a machine shop not a service consultant !!!

[ianh]

Thanks again. I have another question...I was checking the rotors last night and they seem fine, the pads are just worn down. They are after market rotors with holes and slots. My question is can I just replace the pads and be OK? I used to drive a Land Rover Discovery and was able to swap the pads only and had no problems...just wondering if it's possible here...

Ok lets discuss why you need you turn brake rotors.

1) they are warped and grab and shake.Valid reason, but most probably the rotors are bad and it will just come back.Replace them !!!

2) you are replacing the pads.Humm... definite maybe.Why, because the pads will not seat immediately and the owner or shop doesn't know to bed them in properly.So turning is often not recommended in European cars / SUV's unless there is a reason. The FSM says to bed them in, only turn if surface is badly ridged.

So in the USA this is more of a result of "just to be sure so we wont be sued" than anything else.

So buy the pads with the fast bed in layer or bed them in properly. Wont take long because the high spots wear down fast.

3) shop wants to turn them, till there is nothing left !!! Then they can sell you new ones !!!Say no more !!!

Needles to say turning has not worked for me when done under warranty and i have never turned them after warranty.... see above !!

[Pwnin O'Brien]

A lot of shops won't turn drilled/slotted rotors because they claim it destroys their tips (when it hits the hole/slot it makes the tip dull). They say that instead of cutting, try sanding the rotor on the lathe. Some shops will cut the rotor if you can find one.

[sewanee06]

Thanks ianh!

That's what I'm going to do. Got some EBC pads on the way and I'll replace the pads this weekend. If the brake pedal is bumpy for 50-60 miles until the pads seat I can live with that...Dealer also said the bearings are loose so I'm gonna follow Billy's directions on repacking and tightening them. Hopefully I'll be dialed in after that. Thanks for the input everybody. This forum is a great resource!

~Jeff

[Empty V]

Thanks ianh!

That's what I'm going to do. Got some EBC pads on the way and I'll replace the pads this weekend. If the brake pedal is bumpy for 50-60 miles until the pads seat I can live with that...Dealer also said the bearings are loose so I'm gonna follow Billy's directions on repacking and tightening them. Hopefully I'll be dialed in after that. Thanks for the input everybody. This forum is a great resource!

~Jeff

So which EBC pads did you order?

Billy

[sewanee06]

I went with the Ultimax. I would have gone for the YellowStuff but I need to keep the cost down and all the reviews I read for the Ultimax were really strong so they should get the job done.I just got through paying the dealer $1400.00 to do the 120K service (I'm at 140K), change the plugs and fix two exhaust leaks...on top of that I'm about to pay a private shop ~$1100.00 to replace the transmission turbine revolution sensor (the dealer wanted $1800.00)...I've got a horrible transmission fluid leak and that's where it's coming from...apparently it's a known problem with the Pathys once they hit ~120K and the only way to replace the sensor is to drop the transmission...nice, huh? So yeah, anywhere I can shave a little $$$, I want to do it. That's also the reason I don't want to replace the rotors unless I have to...

[sewanee06]

Well, the guy that replaced the Revolution Sesor convinced me to go ahead and replace the rotors...he said the ridges (which I didn't think were too bad, but apparently are) on them will almost assuredly cause vibration and noise so I just ordered a pair of Roto-Tech rotors...

[GRNMACHINE]

Billy--THANKS for the writeup!! Hoping to tackle this in the next few weeks. Not looking forward to it. I have passenger side caliper sticking. I am assuming I am going to need new calipers, rotors, and another set of pads (just replaced them 2 years ago). Any recommendations on replacement calipers? Nissan is so proud of their calipers they are $180 discounted online-----Each. They also sell a repair kit, not sure if that is advisable or not. Have never repacked wheelbearings either. Will look at the cheap replacements on Amazon you posted. Also, how do u like the yellow pads? I used "Satisfied" ceramics last time, cant say stopping power was any worse or any better but they sure have minimal brake dust which I really like.

[GRNMACHINE]

Empty, man-a-fre wants $119 each plus shipping, does that sound about right for the dba rotors? Really didnt want to spend that much, was able to get Brembo cross drilled rotors for my Explorer for about $60 each including shipping. Caliper prices are really outrageous for the pathfinder as well.